The Middle East’s highest-circulating travel magazine
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THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2009 Hideaway Hotels Get away from it all with desert retreats, mountain sanctuaries and Robinson Crusoe-style private islands THE WORLD’S GREATEST… THE INDIAN OCEAN THAILAND’S MOST EXITING CITY UNCOVERED BANGKOK BLISS *MAURITIUS *QUIRIMBAS *REUNION *THE MALDIVES *THE SEYCHELLES *NOSY BE ARCHIPELAGO Pages of tropical gems 21 Where to stay in Havana Where to eat in Bilbao Where to shop in Venice + +
Transcript
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THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE DECEMBER 2009
Hideaway Hotels
Get away from it all with desert retreats, mountain sanctuaries and Robinson Crusoe-style
private islands
THE WORLD’S GREATEST…
THE INDIAN OCEAN
THAILAND’S MOST EXITING CITY UNCOVEREDBANGKOK BLISS
Where to stay in Havana Where to eat in Bilbao Where to shop in Venice+ +
Introducing
The Address Dubai Marina
CONTENTSDECEMBER 2009 KANOO WORLD TRAVELLER
Produced by: Hot Media Publishing FZ LLCMay 2009 22,620 BPA Consumer Audit
Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-ThatcherEditorial Director: Rob OrchardPublishing Director: John Thatcher Advertisement Director: Chris CapstickContributing Editor: Ele CooperDesigners: Jenni Dennis and Yvonne Bommes
Cover: Courtesy of JumeirahAdditional images from Getty, iStockphoto and Design Hotels
Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from Hot Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. Hot Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller magazine. ‘Indian Ocean’, ‘Bilbao’, ‘Havana’, and ‘Venice’ features reprinted with kind permission of Sunday Times Travel.
52 VENICE Is there anywhere quite as picturesque during winter time?
42 BANGKOKOutstanding food and incredible sights in Thailand’s coolest city.
48 HAVANA How to organise the perfect break in the Cuban capital
50 BILBAO There’s more to the city than the Guggenheim - get ready for fun
47 SINGAPOREA 30-second guide to what to do in this intriguing city-state
21 INDIAN OCEANA 21-page total guide to everywhere from Mauritius to Madagascar
7 AGENDA All the latest travel promotions, openings and news
11 DRIVE TIME A lovely drive through the heartland of Holland
13 ESSENTIAL SELECTION The world’s very finest getaways
18 PICTURE THIS Your monthly dose of travel inspiration
Medhufushi Resort, The Maldives
Tuk-Tuk, Bangkok,
Thailand
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5pm
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9.20pm
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8.30pm
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24 hours at. . .THE ADDRESS DUBAI MARINA
We arrive at the stunning lobby area of this newly-opened
hotel, with the gentle sounds of a piano and live singer floating across the space. Check in is effortlessly swift, and because we’ve booked a Club Room we have 24 hours before we need to check out – no racing out by 12 noon for us.
We’re in our room. We step out onto the
balcony to drink in the views of the marina, with the twinkling lights coming on across the water as the sun sets. We raid the beautifully-designed snacks cabinet, with its tempting racks of goodies, and grab ourselves some exotic nuts, some Address-branded crisps and a couple of cold drinks. Then it’s back to the balcony to kick back and take it all in.
We raid the snack cupboard again, and
emerge with delicious chunks of English fudge in a lovely presentation case and a jar of original Haribo bears. Very naughty but very nice.
Time to get ready for our night out – a soak in the
deep-fill bath with some Acqua di Parma toiletries is in order. The Address bathrobes and slippers are so comfy we want to take them home!
Dressed in our finest we head to the Blends lounge.
We have a nice cold drink while taking in the beautiful surroundings, and my husband enjoys a Cuban cigar from the humidor. This place is set to become a real hot spot.
We’ve made dinner reservations at
Rive Gauche, the hotel’s signature restaurant. It’s a sleek brasserie offering a smart mix of French classics – we take a seat on the terrace overlooking the water and crack open our menus.
My husband is raving about his Provençal
gnocchi, prepared with fresh basil, sun-dried tomato, slivers of parmesan and courgette. I’m busy tackling a lovely light pesto, pumpkin and goat’s cheese risotto.
DIARY OF A STAY Main courses arrive: I tuck into a super-tender
wagyu entrecote with fresh, lemon-tinged asparagus and a wonderful Madagascar pepper sauce. Meanwhile my husband is enjoying a duck confit, expertly prepared and served with a rich mix of puy lentils and roasted cêpe mushrooms.
We finish the evening by sharing three
delicious mini crème brûlées, with delicate coffee, chocolate and vanilla flavours, followed by long-drawn-out coffees. Perfect.
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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
10am
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8.45am We tumble out of bed and head for Mazina
for breakfast. Mazina has a series of show kitchens – including Asian, European and Arabic – and we’ve heard from some fellow guests that the Friday Brunch is outstanding. We load up on fresh pastries, freshly-cooked eggs with English muffins, cheeses, cold meats and wonderful fresh fruit, all washed down with delicious strong coffee and juice.
After such a big breakfast we need a lie-down – we take a
sun lounger by the stunning rooftop infinity pool, with its views over Dubai Marina, and settle in to catch some rays…
The hotel is connected to the charming Dubai
Marina Mall – we wander through and browse the stores, picking up some new sports gear at Reebok, a pretty dress at Roccobarocco and a paperback for my husband at Borders Express.
We tear ourselves away from the Dubai Marina Mall
and head over to the hotel’s state-of-the-art gym to work off some of that big breakfast.
Freshly showered after our gym trip, we slink off to The Spa
where we get a warm welcome and are ushered into the couple’s treatment room. We’ve booked an aromatherapy experience and after choosing our favoured scent (we both pick a lovely piney one) we receive an invigorating, masterful massage. After a separate sauna we both float out of the treatment room and back to the room.
Feeling a little peckish, we order some room
service: it arrives swiftly and we have it laid out on the balcony. There’s an exquisite caprese salad, alongside a platter of Arabic delicacies – vine leaves, moutabel, labneh, fattoush and the like, all beautifully fresh – and some piping hot cheese sambousek and kibbe.
We check out, and leave feeling like we’ve had a week-long
holiday. We’ve also fallen in love with The Address brand - the good news is that they’ve got a spread of other properties in Dubai for us to try out, plus new launches coming up in France, Egypt and Morocco. We know where we’ll be spending our next break…
www.theaddress.com
Welcome to Morocco, the land of contrasts. Vibrant and enchanting, where shadows meld with sunlight, and sky and sea kiss at the horizon. A land that for centuries has been romanticized by storytellers in their books. Weaving tales about its natural beauty, the warm hearts of its people and the elegance of its architecture. Not to mention its lazy beaches crawling on the Atlantic and Mediterranean seas, its snow-covered peaks, water springs and thick forests, as well as the stunning beauty of its old cities. Come, discover Morocco today.
www.visitmorocco.com
Morocco, a place of fun for the entire family.
MOSAIK
travel for real
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AGENDA NEWS
WHAT’S IN WHAT’S NEW WHAT’S ON
RAK ON TRACKThis month sees the soft opening of the Banyan Tree Al Wadi in Ras Al Khaimah. It’s the UAE’s first all-pool villa resort, a desert retreat complete with a stunning hydrotherapy spa, nature reserve (home to camels, oryxes and gazelles) and a beach club, just a short drive away. Pick of the villas is the Al Rimal, with its private sundeck and wraparound views of the desert. Energetic holidaymakers can get involved with safaris, riding and arhery, and there’s a special club for kids featuring activities like bedtime stories under the stars. banyantree.com
AGENDA11 DRIVE TIME 13 ESSENTIAL SELECTION18 PICTURE THIS
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THAI PRIDEIf you’re visiting Thailand before December 10, make sure to make tracks for Chiang Mai, for the Ratchaphruek Festival, held in honour of the King of Thailand. The festival will include major parades, displays of classical Thai dances, horticultural exhibitions (including superb orchids, on show at the Ratchaphruek Garden), concerts, fireworks and puppet shows. Lots of fun.
THE MANE ATTRACTIONLooking for something a little wild for your next holiday? Book yourself in to Johannesburg’s Westcliff Hotel (westcliff.co.ze) and you can take advantage of their new guest activity programme – walking and playing with lion cubs at the De Tweede Spruit Valley nature reserve.
BUY THE BOOKNew publication ‘A Year of Watching Wildlife’ by David Lukas is a textbook for nature lovers planning big trips. The gorgeous photography is combined with the information you need to organise extraordinary animal encounters, from swimming with dolphins to walking with tigers. This is a Lonely Planet book and shows off their trademark attention to detail and relish for far-out travel.
’LITE UP YOUR LIFEWe’re big fans of this new luggage line from Samsonite. Cosmolite claims to be the company’s strongest and lightest luggage to date, and are perfect for serious travellers. The sleek suitcases come equipped with anti-scratch surfaces, plus four ‘spinner’ wheels which allow you to whizz them around 360 degrees, a nice touch when you’re hustling your way through the airport. TSA locks and zip dividers complete the package.
Two gorgeous properties are the focus of attention in Gotham City this month. The first is The Surrey, (thesurrey.com), which has just been re-opened after a massive upgrade. It’s right by Central Park and is home to Michelin-starred Café Boulud. The other big noise is Crosby Street Hotel (right, crosbystreethotel.com), which has just been opened in SoHo. In its former life it was a car park, and it’s been decked out in gorgeous boutique style, with its own sculpture garden, underground screening room and rooftop garden growing organic vegetables. Fantastic.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK
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AGENDA NEWS
We’ve got an incredible seven-night cruise for two to give away to one lucky reader. The Gulf is definitely best enjoyed from the perspective of a luxury boat, and no one does it better than Costa Cruises. Costa Luminosa, the most exclusive boat of the company’s fleet, has been designed with high-end clientele in mind, and it can sleep up to 2,826 guests. Well-heeled travellers adore using its luxurious pools, spa, 4D cinema, restaurants and gym. From December until April Costa Luminosa will sail on weekly cruises which stop off at Dubai, Muscat, Fujairah, Abu Dhabi and Bahrain. To be in with your chance of winning, simply answer the following simple question:
How many people does Costa Luminosa sleep?a) 2,826b) 7,589c) 16,403
Writing ‘Costa Luminosa’ in the subject line, send your answer along to [email protected] by January 31, 2010
SAIL AWAY
ALL ABOUT EVEStill not decided what to do over the festive season? Allow us to make a New Year’s Eve suggestion. The Al Raha Beach Hotel in Abu Dhabi (02 508 0555, danathotels.com) will be laying on a special Carnival for NYE this year, an imaginative mixture of latino music, live cooking and good cheer. A dedicated ‘Feasting Hall’ will be home to a gourmet buffet, and there will be a full seated dinner at The Ballroom. Priced at Dhs790 per person, it’s our top recommendation for a fun new year’s break.
How often do you travel on business? I travel regularly around the UAE, I’m in Ras al Khaimah once a month, Fujairah once a month and then off to Beirut quite often. I also travel to check out other properties – I got back from a trip to Saudi Arabia not long ago.
How do you deal with long plane journeys? Short of a sledgehammer, nothing is going to put me to sleep, so I chain-watch movies - I’m a real movie addict.
What is your favourite airline for business class travel? I have a couple actually. I go to Holland regularly as my wife is Dutch, and I really like KLM – the service is efficient, and the food and drink are really innovative. Emirates Airline is another favourite, particularly if you’re travelling on some of the newer planes – the entertainment is incredible
What is your favourite airport lounge in the world?Cathay Pacific’s lounge in Hong Kong – it’s large and luxurious with wi-fi and very creative food. Another that stands out is Virgin Atlantic’s Upper Class lounge in London, the facilities are incredible.
What’s on your iPod when you’re travelling? I love to listen to The Stereophonics, and I’m a fan of Irish band The Script,
as well as Chris Daughtry, the guy that came second in American Idol.
What’s your favourite luggage brand?Tumi. I discovered it a couple of years ago, it’s very robust, very modern-looking, very good quality.
MY TRAVEL TIPSOmer Kaddouri, Senior VP UAE for Rotana, spends a huge amount of time travelling on business: he gives us his key travel insights.
WIN A
CRUISE!
AGENDA DRIVE TIME
A view along the Bloemen Route
ONEDAY
This is a trip to start planning now – the best time to take it is April, when the flowers which line Western Holland’s Bloemen Route (aka the Bollenstreek) are at their brightest and boldest. Hire a car in Haarlem, and make your way down to Leiden, less than 30 miles south. Along the way you’ll see the most incredible cavalcade of flowers, from dahlias to crocuses and from narcissi to gladioli – not forgetting, naturally, millions of multicoloured tulips. You’ll also stop off for coffee in a series of old fashioned Dutch towns, including the lovely Lisse where there’s a huge public garden which showcases the very best in blooms. You’d be well advised to make room reservations in Leiden, a gloriously old fashioned and attractive city, which marks the end point of your bucolic journey.
DRIVE TIMETHE BLOEMEN ROUTE, HOLLAND
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AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION
In need of a great escape? We’ve picked out the very finest spots to get away from it all...
AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION
THE WORLD’S BEST HIDEAWAYS
In a nutshellA resort which makes the most of its inspiring location in a 600-acre stretch of desert in Utah. The resort buildings have all been designed to fit in with the setting, with lovely local stone and plenty of water features. As you’re so distant from any light pollution, you can see the stars come out in all their glory each night. Hidden benefitsThe world-class Aman spa, with its flotation and water pavilions for hydrotherapy, the shiatsu-channeling watsu pool and the private al fresco terraces for treatments. And the resort pool, cradled in the crook of the building, which is a wonderful place to laze and take in the rocky landscape.Best for...Wannabe cowboys and anyone sick of big cities.villasatamangiri.com
AMANGIRI, UTAH, USA
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Tsala Treetop Lodge
Château de Bagnols
AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION
In a nutshell An utterly unique, ultra-glam dwelling perched high in the treetops and granting guests a true bird’s eye view of the forest canopy. This is how Tarzan might have lived had he won the Jungle Lottery.Hidden benefits Though your luxurious abode is glass-walled, you can really get back to nature by stepping onto your wraparound terrace, where you can drink in the sights and sounds of the jungle from the comfort of your infinity plunge pool. The hotel’s restaurant is also something of a gem, dishing up inventive dishes fashioned from ingredients that have been sourced from local communities and the hotel’s own gardens. Best for…Couples in search of luxury with a twist.hunterhotels.com/tsalatreetoplodge
TSALA TREETOP LODGE, SOUTH AFRICA
In a nutshellA castle hideaway near Lyon which gives you a taste of mediaeval grandeur and all the privacy that can be afforded by a drawbridge and moat. Hidden benefitsWhen you’re finished being wrapped up in your 12th century daydreams, you can take a horse-drawn carriage ride through the breathtaking local countryside, play tennis, go for a hot air balloon ride, or indulge your creative side with a gourmet cookery course. Make sure, though to leave room for dinner at the Michelin-starred restaurant. Best forAnyone in search for that classic Year-in-Provence-style rural idyll. chateaudebagnols.co.uk
CHÂTEAU DE BAGNOLS, FRANCE
In a nutshellAn escape in the middle of lush green woodland and on the outskirts of a lovely old-fashioned fishing village. Comprised of eight ethnically-styled bungalows, it’s a wonderful place to get away from it all and get back to basics.Hidden benefitsOutdoor dinners by the pool, including superb fresh Med-style food; trips to check out Trancosol and eat in the square with the locals.Best for...True tranquility. etniabrasil.com.br
ETNIA POUSADA, BRAZIL
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AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION
Château de Bagnols
Wolgan Valley
In a nutshellThe sister property to the much-loved Al Maha desert resort in Dubai, Wolgan is a resort which is set in the middle of a wilderness and which brings together high luxury and stunning natural attractions.Hidden benefitsHorse-riding through the glorious Greater Blue Mountain World Heritage area; taking safari tours to observe the wonderful wildlife up close and personal – expect to see wallabies, wallaroos and kangaroos as well as lovely native birds; and hiking through the reserve, stopping to take a dip in one of the swimming holes.Best forEco-travellers who don’t want to rough it – the valley’s Timeless Spa is first class and indicative of the level of facilities on offer.emirateshotelsresorts.com
WOLGAN VALLEY, AUSTRALIA
In a nutshell A quite superb hotel and restaurant set in the beautiful English countryside. There are 32 rooms in all, each individually designed and many of which boast roaring log fires and four poster beds to give guests that quintessentially English experience. Hidden benefits The hotel is home to one of the UK’s finest restaurants – it holds two Michelin stars - and one of the world’s most celebrated chefs – Raymond Blanc – and while staying at the hotel you can take a cookery course that’ll teach you things you simply won’t find in the pages of a cook book. Best for...Serious foodies or those simply seeking a classically romantic setting.manoir.com
LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS, ENGLAND
“Wolgan is a resort which brings together high luxury and stunning natural attractions”
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‘I’VE ALWAYS WANTED A PRIVATE PLUNGE POOL’
In a nutshellA hotel sculpted entirely from ice, where the temperature inside is a cool -5C. Don’t worry, you won’t freeze. Overnight stays are limited to one night only and you’ll be wrapped in thermals for your sleep there. For the rest of your stay you’ll be housed in an adjacent, warm hotel.Hidden benefits Time your stay for the end of the year and you’ll have a favourable chance of seeing the Northern Lights, the breathtaking natural phenomenon that sees the night sky lit up in myriad colours. Best for...Adventure buffs. Just remember to pack your woolies. icehotel.com
ICE HOTEL, SWEDEN
In a nutshell Hidden amid sweeping golden sands, this is a resort where guests can experience the very best of the desert, from activities like dune bashing and horse riding to the most incredible sunsets and star-filled skies.Hidden benefits The small – it has a handful of treatment rooms – on-site Satori Spa offers rejuvenating therapies aplenty. Our tip? Make sure to book the resort’s one outdoor treatment room in advance of your arrival at the resort. It’s incredibly popular for good reason.Best for...Young families in search of both rest and play.Jumeirah.com
BAB AL SHAMS, UAE
In a nutshellA private island in the azure waters of the Maldives where, but for a team of staff that’s on hand to service your every whim, you’re the only resident. Naturally, the cost is as jaw-dropping as the experience. Hidden benefitsNot only do you have free run of your personal piece of paradise but you can also set sail on the island’s outsized yacht, as if any additional perk were needed. Best for...Those who thought the credit crunch was some sort of low-cost breakfast cereal.raniaexperience.com
In a nutshellLocated 30 kilometres outside of Hua Hin, in the tiny and attractive village of Pran Buri, the Six Seses hideaway is made up on bijou villas, equipped with private pools, and a low-eco impact Earth Spa built from mud and rice husks, where you can have classic Six Senses treatments.Hidden benefitsThe network of eye-opening nature trails which snake around the resort, and the brilliant kids’ club, which lays on exciting ‘sleepovers’ each night to get your children out of your hair and allow you to seriously unwind.
Best forLovers of sun and the slow life. sixsenses.com
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY HUA HIN, THAILAND
AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION
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PICTURE THIS
WADI TAFFOZZIGIART,LIBYAThis eerily arid and desolate wadi in the Sahara is formed by a dip in the Tadrart Acacus, the Acacus Mountains. Starting just outside of Ghat, this range covers over a hundred kilometres of terrain, cutting through the sands of the desert. Alongside the appeal of such hauntingly beautiful landscapes as this, the area is famous for the ancient rock carvings and paintings found in nearby caves, some dating back almost 15 millenia, and depicting elephants, camels, men and even ostriches.
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JAPAN
Indian OceanTOTAL GUIDE
Whatever your bag and your budget, we’ll help you find your own fantasy island…
22 TREASURE ISLAND Taking a luxury break in Mauritius: how to make the most of the bustle of Port Louis and the soothing calm of the coast.
26 THE WILD BUNCH Sun, sea, sand and a smattering of adventure: it’s all yours on these unmanicured islands
30 TEST THE WATERS Can a family have affordable fun in The Seychelles?
34 SLEEPING BEAUTIES Hotels so good you might slumber for 100 years
38 A DEEPER LOVE Diving in the Maldives
Indian Ocean feature reproduced with permission from the Sunday Times Travel
INDIAN OCEAN
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Treasure Island
It has the power to rekindle the (c)oldest relationship.
Howard Jacobson warms to the island of Mauritius
C all me sentimental, but I’m having the time of my life watching love blossom for a second time between couples
who, on the face of it, had passed it. Not old couples: simply busy, absent, and for the most part, well-to-do couples, who come to one of the most discreetly luxurious hotels in Mauritius, if not the world, to unwind, briefly forget business and, with luck, find a few minutes to reacquaint themselves with their spouses. Always supposing they can remember who their spouses are.
The hour after dinner is the sweetest time. Picture a buttermilk evening, with puffs of cloud around the moon, the colours of the insides of a mussel shell, a night so emollient it is hard to believe it knows anything of rain, let alone the cyclones that sometimes shake the island.
We are simultaneously inside and outside the great thatched roofs of the Royal Palm Hotel – there for our protection only if we need them. The breeze blows through the open sections of the dining room, the lounge, the little tiled dancefloor round which we gather on armchairs, listening to a singer with a bristling Punjabi moustache and hair coiffed like a parrot’s crooning in imitation of Neil Sedaka.
To dance or not to dance? Partly, we are shy and unaccustomed. Partly, we just want to sit for the pure sensuality of sitting, sip at some fantastical island juice and breathe in the warm night. When the singer isn’t singing, you can hear the Indian Ocean, lightly sucking on the fingers of the beach. So far I haven’t seen or heard a wave, so gentle an accommodation has the water come to with the sand. It is not so much that nature seems
tamed here as that nature doesn’t want to put anyone out. Fairy lights run up the trunks of palm trees laden with coconuts that fall only when nobody is around. There is nothing dangerous here. No spiders. No snakes. Not a bad word or a false gesture from the waiters, who bend their liquid faces to us as though ministering to our every whim is what they were put on Earth to do.Every now and then we do dance, first one couple breaking through the reserve, followed by a second, then a third. Musing, half melancholy, recollective dancing.
Hands go on shoulders that haven’t felt a hand, you suspect, since the last Mauritian holiday. Even those not taking to the floor begin to touch, absently at first, but then lingeringly, as though blood is thawing by the minute. One by one, people who have held nothing but a mobile phone all year get up and leave, sway homewards to the music, holding hands or with their arms laced around one another’s waists.
Come the morning, the hawkers – all called John or Bob – are dragging their huge shopping bags across the sand, displaying sarongs, opening up lace tablecloths for the approval of swimmers 50m from shore. First they try you in French. Although the official language of Mauritius is English, the real language of the island remains French.
“Picture a buttermilk evening, with puffs of cloud around the moon, the colours of the insides of a mussel shell”
Royal Palm Hotel, Pool
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INDIAN OCEAN
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Let nobody tell you otherwise – in its affections Mauritius is French, not English. Not that anyone wants to admit that to an Englishman. Least of all John, who addresses me as ‘Big Boss’ once he discovers where I’m from, and who cannot believe I have no desire to see his stock of Ralph Lauren polo shirts. Ralph Lauren polo shirts are all the rage in Mauritius, every other shop being a ‘Genuine Ralph Lauren Factory Shop’, about which I have nothing to say except that I’d rather be dead than seen with a polo player on my breast. It’s the combination of French influence, Indian influence, Chinese influence and no English influence that makes the daily food markets in Port Louis so exhilarating. I am
energised by the bus journey, a bumpy, comprehensive ride through every anti-cyclone concrete village from Grande Baie to the capital, on a single-decker Ashok Leyland, fitted with capacious metal-and-Formica seats, upholstered in red leatherette. Triolet Bus Services puts to shame every English equivalent for speed, frequency and helpfulness. And when you are disgorged into the capital, the terminus is what you want it to be – thronging, excitable, smelling of cumin and coriander, but not frightening. Like the food markets. In my list of influences on the market I should have included the bounteousness of nature. Never before have I seen vegetables so unruly – squashes twice the size of your head, Chinese lettuces still sprouting on the stalls, green beans that have to be apprehended, trapped and tethered before being wrestled into paper bags. At the stall of N Mootoosamy & Fils, herboristes pour toutes les maladies, I am given advice on all things spiritual. ‘Buy your spices from the supermarket, they are cheaper,’ Mootoosamy Fils tells me,
‘and don’t keep your rupees in your back pocket.’ I have taken a fancy to Port Louis, with its cultural argumentativeness. It’s a diminutive ex-colonial town, with a statue of Victoria (‘Our beloved and much regretted Queen’) still standing plump in the grounds of Government House, and monuments to French intellectuals wherever there’s a space – any number of them in Company Gardens, a wonderfully run-down rectangle of dirt, curtained by spectacular banyan trees and, as far as I can see, now favoured exclusively by readers of serious books. Behind the town are ranged the queerest mountains you ever saw, hobgoblin hills of the sort we drew in crayon at school, leaving shapes in the sky like missing jigsaw-puzzle pieces. Familiar and yet not quite penetrable, placid but then maybe not, like a mirror image of the island. Back at the impeccable quietude of the Royal Palm, the Mauritian waiters bend themselves in sacrifice to my comforts, their eyes as still as ponds, giving no clue to the knowledge of pain or ecstasy they contain.
Clockwise from this image: Port-Louis/harbour, Market, Port-Louis Main Street, red chilis and white beans at the Port Louis market
“The terminus is what you want it to be – thronging, excitable, smelling of cumin and coriander, but not frightening”
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WHERE TO STAY
Rooms at the Royal Palm (royalpalm-hotel.com) start at $644 per night, B&B. Four Seasons Mauritius at Anahita (fourseasons.com/mauritius), on the eastern coast, has rooms from $1,000, B&B. Casuarina Resort and Spa (hotel-casuarina.com), situated on the beach by Trou aux Biches, has rooms from $240, half board.
INDIAN OCEAN
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The wild bunchSun, sand and SPF are all very well, but if beaching-it isn’t enough,
head to one of these lesser-known idylls for a dash of adventure…
WHERE IS IT? It’s part of the European Union, but this wholly French island with its hypermarchés and boulangeries lies 200km southwest of its more famous, beachier, less-adventurous sibling, Mauritius.WHY GO? Vacationing Parisians come to trek through the Jurassic-looking volcanic landscape before crashing out at a low-key beach resort. La Réunion is Mother Nature showing off: misty conifer forests blanket the three towering cirques (extinct volcanoes), as if the island had just risen from the ocean, dripping tropical emerald leaves and diamond waterfalls. The place has distinctly different coasts: the west is sun-drenched and dry; the east has eight times more rainfall. The fallout from the 2007 eruption of Piton de la Fournaise on the Côte Sauvage (‘Wild Coast’) is still evident, and the volcano continues to rumble. As you’d expect from a French island, there’s a major emphasis on food, and the local vanilla and spice crops play a big
part in cooking here. A kari – a mild creole curry with meat or fish, tomato, onion and turmeric – appears on nearly every menu. Nightlife centres around St Gilles, home to the larger resort hotels, while daytime pursuits range from paragliding over the Botanical Gardens to surfing the wild waves off the coast of Saint Leu. Whatever you do, make sure you take a trek, whether it’s a five-day round trip from the mountain-top town of Cilaos, through the abandoned spa resort of Hell-Bourg and the magical Forêt de Bélouve, or just one day, down into the bowels of the Piton de la Fournaise volcano.DON’T MISS: The 45-minute helicopter ride around the three cirques and over the live volcano, taking in routes impossible to reach by foot or vehicle. It’s like watching a 3D adventure movie at the Imax (helilagon.com).WHERE TO STAY? Jardins d’Héva (rooms from $130, B&B) is one of the sweetest sleepovers if you’re trekking: vivid chalets and a great restaurant are flanked by dramatic Salazie town.
FOR FOOD FANS:LA REUNION
KWT 27
WHERE IS IT? Africa’s largest island sits in balmy waters east of Mozambique. WHY GO? Madagascar is the land that time (and globalisation) forgot, and its palm-fringed coral-reef resorts have so far remained the preserve of the French. It might not be as famous as its Indian Ocean neighbours, but the upside is bargain seafood and pristine expanses of sand. Beyond the beaches, Madagascar has limestone-mountain ranges sharpened to razor edges by the elements; plateaus that plunge into semi-tropical rainforest; and a fantastical spiny desert. DON’T MISS: The lemurs – Madagascar’s unofficial mascot and its star attraction. The largest of the lot, the koala-eared, kangaroo-legged indri, is best spotted
on pre-dawn treks through the Perinet Rainforest Reserve as it whoops its eerie morning call and bounds through the forest. WHERE TO STAY? Avoid the capital Tana (Antananarivo), You’ll be happier in the national parks and beach resorts of the northeast coast or the beach huts and pirates’ graveyard of Ile Ste Marie. Here you’ve got scuba-diving, whale-watching, deep-sea fishing and spoil-yourself spa treatments at Princess Bora Lodge and Spa (princessebora.com; rooms from $170). Elsewhere, on the remote Anjajavy Peninsula, the Anjajavy Hotel (anjajavy.com; rooms from $240) is one of the poshest here, with a top-notch spa and decidedly moreish food. It’s great for nature trail treks and snorkelling.
FOR WILDLIFE-WATCHERS:MADAGASCAR
28 KWT
WHERE IS IT? Off the coast of Mozambique: A string of 32 desert islands and sandbar stretching for 100km. WHY GO? To tick off the kind of picture-perfect beaches and first-rate hotels you’d find in the Maldives, all culminating in a real adventure. Much of the Quirimbas is national park, meaning tiny lodges, wild landscapes and a spectacular display of protected reef. Combine a few of the islands for a real mix of experiences. The beaches here are knockout expanses bordering a neon-blue sea flecked with traditional white-sailed fishing dhows. A menagerie of rare birds and animals are the star attractions on nature walks. But the highlight is the diving. The pristine coral reefs harbour rainbow-hued fish, giant turtles, dolphins and humpback whales. More into culture than beach lounging? Base yourselves on Ibo Island: once a diamond in the Portuguese trading crown, and later, home to a controversial slave trade. Today it’s a sleepy outpost of dusty streets, crumbling 15th-century mansions and empty beaches. You can feel its haunting history on a twilight amble through the atmospheric Old Town.
The locals know plenty of stories, and will happily help you explore, taking in the 16th-century fort of São João Batista where the slaves were once imprisoned. Recently restored, it is now home to a small silversmiths’ project selling intricate filigree jewellery crafted from melted-down Portuguese coins. DON’T MISS: A couple of days at Ibo Island Lodge (iboisland.com; rooms from $720, full board). It has a private spit of sand revealed only during ebb tides, and staff ferry you there by boat to a breakfast in the shade of a Bedouin tent. WHERE TO STAY? Ibo Island Lodge (as before): it runs tours and fishing trips in conjunction with the island community. It’s all rustic luxury on the tiny private island of Quilálea (quilalea.com; rooms from $820, full board), which has nine villas decked out in swathes of muslin and local textiles. More luxurious, in a wicker-and-teak kind of way, is Vamizi Island Lodge (vamizi.com; rooms from $1300, full board), on one of the prettiest islands, bordered by bleached sands. Stay here and you’ll get the chance to participate in community projects such as turtle-tagging.
FOR COUTURE-CASTAWAYS:THE QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO, MOZAMBIQUE
KWT 29
JAPAN
WHERE IS IT? Off the southeast coast of India, dangling like an enormous teardrop. WHY GO? If the thought of spending two weeks on a sunlounger makes you restless, Sri Lanka is for you, blending beach-flopping with sight-hopping. Its shores are textbook tropical fantasy – spindly palms, tickled by warm sapphire seas – while inland lie lush landscapes littered with ancient ruins. Base yourself in the ‘cultural triangle’ at the heart of the country, and you’ll be within easy striking distance of the must-sees: scramble to the summit of Sigiriya, an ancient rock fortress that looms high above the jungle; cycle around the 1,000-year-old ruins of Polonnaruwa, where granite-carved Buddhas with Mona Lisa smiles gaze into the distance; take in the kaleidoscopic cave paintings of Dambulla, and go tea-tasting in misty plantations sprinkled with colonial hill stations. Almost every town has its own traditional Ayurvedic centre, where you
can get steam-cleaned, massaged and pummelled. DON’T MISS: The delights of Sri Lankan cooking, a rich blend of aromatic curries and delicately-spiced seafood. ‘Hoppers’ – eggy pancake snacks served with hot sauce and sold at roadside stalls – are irresistible. WHERE TO STAY? The Cinnamon Lodge (cinnamonhotels.com; rooms from $130, half board) has a dead-central position in the cultural triangle, making it a handy base for the sights. The place exudes colonial elegance – dark wood floors, fans whirring from soaring ceilings, colonnaded terraces – and there’s a pool for post-sightseeing dips. Watch out for the monkeys patrolling the grounds. Near the fortress city of Galle in Sri Lanka’s south, the Lighthouse (jetwing.com; rooms from $300, room only) is a beachside retreat by the late architect Geoffery Bawa, with its own stretch of sand and ocean views.
FOR HISTORY-HIKERS:SRI LANKA
30 KWT
Test the watersThe Seychelles aren’t just for honeymooners – they’re an
affordable aquatic playground for adults and kids, too.
William Gray and family dip their toes
The sea was as smooth and blue as a royal sash – and not even the slightest breeze ruffled its surface. When flying fish began scattering in front of us, they left glittering trails, like the silver sparks of firework rockets.
‘Five!’ shouted Ellie. ‘No way! That was easily a nine,’ countered her brother, Joe.Our seven-year-old twins were leaning over the railings of the Cat Cocos ferry,
timing the airborne efforts of the flighty fish. By the time we reached Baie St Anne on the southern tip of Praslin (an hour’s crossing from the capital, Mahé), they had declared a 15-second glide the outright winner.
Never mind the private islands, posh resorts and swanky spas. Through the eyes of a child, the Seychelles promise the ultimate tropical island adventure. Here, even the smallest natural wonder – a flying fish, say – is mesmerising. You’ll find less in the way of kids’ clubs, crèches and watersports than at other places in the Caribbean, the natural choice for long-haul loving families. But that’s what makes the Seychelles so appealing – the emphasis is on exploring rather than hanging around in a resort where days are mapped out by kids’ clubs.
KWT 31 Seychelles Beach
INDIAN OCEAN
32 KWT
Wait a minute, though – aren’t the Seychelles expensive? Well, yes and no. At one extreme you could blow the kids’ inheritance on an exclusive hideaway such as North Island (almost $6,000 per night for a family of four). But, at the other end of the scale, you could hop from place to place, stay in more modest accommodation, and get a whole holiday for a similar price. That, at any rate, was the plan for our week split between the archipelago’s main outposts – Mahé, Praslin and La Digue.
After the journey to Mahé, many tourists head straight to the domestic terminal for connecting flights to outlying islands – but the added rigmarole of getting airborne again is torture for kids who are not only beginning to wilt in the heat but have glimpsed the turquoise waters beyond the airport. Besides, if you’re counting the pennies, Mahé offers some of the Seychelles’ best value places to stay and eat.
Take the Coral Strand for example. It’s one of the island’s longest-established mid-range hotels, and you can book rooms, as part of a package, for $360 per night, B&B (then squeeze the kids in for an extra $30 each).
Not bad considering the A+ location on Beau Vallon beach, a floury-white crescent of shallow, sheltered waters that make the perfect training ground for children getting to grips with masks and snorkels. There’s plenty more to keep them busy, too, from pedalos and glass-bottom boat rides to outsize-pizza picnics around the pool.
Away from the coast on a day’s exploration by hire car, we tracked down insect-eating
pitcher plants in Morne Seychellois National Park and watched white-tailed tropicbirds swirling like paper darts above the island’s forest-clad mountains. Further south, at Le Jardin du Roi, there were spices and fruits to sample from the plantation – another highland retreat that offered cool respite from the humid coast. At the plantation’s cafe we tried bananas stewed in cinnamon-flavoured coconut milk – a creole dish that would serve us well during our forthcoming self-catering stint on Praslin.
We picked up more culinary tips at Marie Antoinette, a restaurant in the capital, Victoria, where the signature $20 Creole feast included snapper, aubergine fritters, chicken curry and tuna with pumpkin chutney. By the time we stepped off the Cat Cocos ferry at Praslin the next day, we had a whole shopping list of essentials – onions, ginger, tomatoes, rice, fresh fish, coconut milk and bananas.
The widest choice of self-catering properties on Praslin is along Anse Volbert, where we found the Côte d’Or Chalets – four spacious two-bedroom bungalows, with air-con, kitchen and verandah, from just $240 per night. Everything you need for self-sufficiency is nearby, from a store and bike-hire shop to a beach cafe serving burger and chips, and octopus curry. There’s even an ice-cream parlour – Gelateria de Luca – where our two mini-connoisseurs declared the coconut flavour was king.
By now the twins were gaining confidence with their snorkelling, floating over seagrass meadows where yellow cowfish with blunt horns pirouetted among the fronds. On our second day on Praslin, we ventured further offshore, snorkelling hand-in-hand around Chauvre Souris, a tiny island 200m from the beach. As the water deepened (and grips tightened), seagrass gave way to boulders of granite, and the sea began to chatter with the clicking sounds of fish nibbling away at the reef. It was like floating in a giant bowl of Rice Krispies – interspersed with excited ‘snorkel talk’ from Joe and Ellie. Halfway around, we clambered onto a rocky outcrop for a rest,
“As the water deepened, seagrass gave way to boulders of granite, and the sea began to chatter with the clicking sounds of fish nibbling away at the reef”
KWT 33
only to find ourselves equally spellbound by the fairy terns and fruit bats overhead.
We went even further the next day, joining a boat trip to the isolated granite islets of Curieuse National Marine Park, where an eagle-spotted ray joined the swirl of neon. It was all going swimmingly until Ellie got zapped by a jellyfish. It only left a mild rash – less painful than a nettle – but it was enough to put her off snorkelling for a day or two.
Fortunately, like Mahé, Praslin has several dry diversions, the foremost of which is the Vallée de Mai, a World Heritage-listed palm forest that’s home to the indigenous coco de mer. These bilobed nuts, with a metre-long stamen, are infamous for their shape, but the children were more concerned with the fact that Vallée de Mai is a remnant of the prehistoric forests that grew on Gondwanaland at the time of the dinosaurs. Joe and Ellie spent a rapt couple of hours exploring the trails, spotting geckos and discussing whether a 20-kilo coco de mer nut could pole-axe a T Rex.
Back at the beach later, Ellie, still wary of jellyfish, focused on building ‘dribble castles’, the cookie-mixture texture of Anse Lazio’s sands perfect for creating fairytale fortresses. It was on the neighbouring island of La Digue, though, that we discovered our favourite beaches. After taking the ferry to La Passe, we hired bikes and pedalled to the southern end of the island. After 20 minutes, we found ourselves at the dazzling white scimitar of Grand Anse. At each end of the bay, coconut palms sprouted from pink granite, while the sea was toothpaste-
turquoise. Large breakers made the water too dangerous for children to enter, but Joe and Ellie spent a wired half hour playing chicken with the waves. We then moved to where boulders tempered the waves, creating paddling pools squirming with mudskippers.
It was already late afternoon by the time we started cycling back to the harbour at La Passe, but we couldn’t visit La Digue and miss the much-hyped Anse Source d’Argent beach. It was certainly a beauty, but the surrounding lagoon left us with the most abiding holiday memory.
Donning masks and snorkels, we drifted out into languid water no more than a couple of metres deep. I was pointing out a pipefish to the twins when something larger caught my eye. Joe saw it too, and clamped himself to my back like a limpet. I took hold of Ellie’s hand and began treading water. A turtle was heading straight for us, looming out of the lagoon with outspread flippers, its beaked head tilted to one side. The twins later admitted that they thought we were in for a pecking. But the turtle merely slided gracefully a metre or so from our goggle-eyed faces, and there we all hovered in a kind of extraterrestrial trance, trading curious glances. It was a once-in-a-lifetime encounter – priceless even by the Seychelles’ standards. The flying fish would have to put on a pretty impressive show when we headed back to Mahé the next morning.
FURTHER INFORMATIONVisit www.seychellessecrets.com.
INDIAN OCEAN
34 KWT
Sleeping beauties
Resorts in the Seychelles, Maldives and Mauritius are the stuff of
dreams. But how do you know which one’s for you? Read on…
The MaldivesIf you want perfect beaches, polished service and preened rooms, with minimal effort on your behalf, you’ll love the Maldives. This surely is the world’s laziest holiday destination – although watersports enthusiasts won’t get bored. Dive in…
BEST FOR FOOD-LOVERS CONRAD RANGALI GO ON, WHET MY APPETITE: You know you’re onto a winner when tourists make tracks from rival resorts to sample your food. Especially when the tracks in question have to be by boat or seaplane. With seven venues and myriad cuisines – all geared for the gourmand – guests here are spoilt for choice. There’s the overwater Sunset Grill; the intimate waterside Vilu; an eat-in cellar; a cheese cafe; the Koko Grill outdoor teppanyaki restaurant; even a super-healthy spa choice, Mandhoo. STAR ATTRACTION? Ithaa (Pearl), the world’s first all-glass undersea restaurant. You’re the one on display here as thousands of rainbow-hued reef fish, including manta rays and baby sharks, peer down on you tucking in to some of their relatives in a five-course Maldivian/pan-Asian extravaganza. Savour the likes of grilled scallops on filo pastry with red caviar, and reef fish with grape, almond and saffron reduction, followed by Maldivian banana with chilli mascarpone and basil.
BEST FOR SIMPLE PLEASURESMEDHUFUSHI HOW SIMPLE, EXACTLY? No complimentary iPods, no Philippe Starck interiors, and very few sparkly kaftans – the liveliest it gets here is the weekly hermit crab race (the island is
home to hundreds, and one guest reckoned she’d bumped into her numbered crab four times during her stay). Beach bungalows do simple chic well, with outdoor bathrooms and beds draped in muslin, and there are lovely touches such as plates of cake, fresh fruit and purple orchids, and poems on the beds at turndown; only the dubious concrete facades let the place down. SO WHAT’S THE ALTERNATIVE? The stilted villas over the still lagoon are much more the ticket for spending days gazing at parrotfish, black-and-white tail sharks and the odd swooping stingray. The overwater spa is fittingly unpretentious, delivering Maldivian sand massages and reflexology on the beach, and while dinner could be pizza in the buffet restaurant, you could also do lobster on a quiet stretch of beach, with only silver shallows and twinkling lanterns for company. BEST FOR RESTLESS SOULS ANANTARA I’D GO CRAZY ON A TINY RESORT: Well, good news. Anantara, on the edge of the South Male Atoll, is made up of three islets – Veli, Dhigu and Naladhu. And because part of the resort is exposed to open ocean, it’s home to a rare Indian Ocean surf academy. The lagoon on the sheltered side of the atoll is perfect for snorkelling, while a dive school, fishing excursions and eight restaurants keep boredom at bay. AND IF I WANT TO LOLL? The resort has two spas (where you’ll be pummelled to death by therapists trained at the Anantara Spa University in Bangkok), not to mention plenty of turquoise loungers and hammocks strung prettily above cotton-wool soft beaches.
This Picture: Conrad Rangali Right: W Retreat and Spa
KWT 35
INDIAN OCEAN
AND WHICH ISLET’S FOR ME? Families tend to opt for the beach villas on Dhigu, while Veli’s overwater bungalows – with pull-up blinds that let you jump straight from bathtub to sea – are the business for couples. The easy-breezy vibe induces a lot of socialising (usually over a fruit smoothie and a banana shisha at one of the beach bars), but Naladhu residents stay clear mostly. The third island has a wooden walkway connecting it to Veli, but only Naladhu residents are given the key to the locked door halfway down (for the $1200 per night price tag, you’d expect a bit of preferential treatment). The 19 rooms (or ‘houses’) are among the loveliest in the Maldives, with infinity pools as big as tennis courts, double-bed-sized swing chairs and surf rolling soothingly under the private decking.
BEST FOR CAROUSINGW RETREAT AND SPAMALDIVES? CAROUSING? Indeed – while other resorts play to misty-eyed honeymooners, the W Retreat and Spa gets the broader holiday picture. The two-bed Seascape Escape villas are designed for groups, with city-chic interiors, soothing white and neutral shades, big circular daybeds next to private plunge pools, and glass panels in the floor. After an afternoon spent in the pool, line your stomach with sashimi at Fish restaurant –and wind up for another night on the tiles. IS THE SERVICE CASUAL? On the contrary – it’s spookily attentive. You’ll even have your picture taken in the W lounge at Male airport so staff can call you by your name without having to be introduced when you arrive.
36 KWT
The SeychellesWrongly written off as the Maldives’ ugly sisters, the Seychelles are having a Cinderella moment: hotels have been revamped, beaches meticulously combed and spas spruced up. Now there’s no better place for a romantic sojourn…
BEST FOR KICKING OFF YOUR SHOESDESROCHES ISLAND RESORTCAN FIVE-STAR AND CASUAL COMBINE? They certainly can – Desroches brilliantly marries the two, in 20 beautiful beachfront villas on their own island (Desroches). Most come with luxury outdoor bathtubs and designer teak accoutrements – and 20 more are on the drawing board (which shouldn’t shatter the peace, since there’s 15km of beachfront, guaranteeing utter seclusion). AND THE ‘CASUAL’ PART? The beach feels wild and natural, its white sand scattered with fallen coconuts. And the whole place feels relaxed, from the laid-back dive school to the restaurant, lit by hundreds of candles and made private by swishy white drapes.
BEST FOR ECO-WARRIORSFREGATE ISLAND PRIVATEWHAT’S WITH THE ‘PRIVATE’ BIT? This low-key resort is a natural wonderworld that costs the earth and is popular with a particular brand of right-on superstar (Brad Pitt’s been). Nature is the main decoration – Frégate is heavy with frangipanis, banyans and wild fig trees – but the 16 villas are also splendidly natural: thatched bedrooms, outdoor and indoor showers, bathtubs overlooking rainbow gardens and private pools big enough to swim lengths in. Best of all, with seven
beaches, guests are unlikely to bump into each other. Anyone with sea-legs should arrive by boat from Mahé. En route you’ll see dolphins, flying fish and flocks of the prettiest seabirds on earth: fairy terns, white-tailed tropicbirds and frigates (frégate in French, hence the name).WHAT’S WITH THE ‘ECO’ BIT? Frégate was the Seychelles’ original eco-trailblazer. Almost unique locally, much of the food is grown on the island rather than imported. But the real draw is the wildlife – and the ecology team that’ll help you find it. You’ll see tortoises with backs like cubed papaya, and lime-green geckos licking up mosquitoes; there are prehistoric-looking tenebrionid beetles found nowhere else on Earth; and you may even spy an endangered magpie robin, the size of a redbreast but sporting black-and-white feathers. Unsurprisingly, pesticides are banned and one of the island’s tractors runs on a mix of diesel and used cooking oil. In keeping with this approach, the clifftop Rock Spa has a ‘fresh is best’ philosophy: rosewater mists, mashed papaya massages, breadfruit anti-ageing facials, passion fruit foot-rubs – you can even forage for the ingredients yourself. Saving the planet doesn’t come cheap. Still, the Seychellois will love you for it.
BEST FOR SPA-LOVERSMAIAWHAT’S THE LOOK? Maia is a polished beauty. Its 30 villas are decked out in Thai silks, Balinese teak furniture, giant daybeds, flatscreen TVs and sleek dining areas with fridges packed full of indulgent La Prairie beauty goodies. The beach is buttery soft, smiling staff work hard to please, going so far as to sprinkle petals in your bath, and the fusion food in the restaurant is superb – lunchtime sashimi is made from tuna caught that morning. AND WHAT CLINCHES IT FOR SPA-LOVERS? It’s a whole world of open pavilions where you can pad around barefoot and spend your time between treatments sipping restorative cups of cooling lemongrass tea. Try the Dancing Fingers massage, so dreamy you’ll wish you could have one every day – for the rest of your life. There’s also yoga, shiatsu, banana leaf wraps, turmeric body scrubs and caviar facials. Organic sophistication.
“The beach is buttery soft, smiling staff work hard to please, going so far as to sprinkle petals in your bath, and the fusion food in the restaurant is superb”
KWT 37
Mauritius This is the Indian Ocean’s most sophisticated island: a French-colonial outcrop in a twinkling ocean. Resorts are correspondingly European, so you get plenty of personalité, wherever you stay…
BEST FOR SOUL-SEARCHERSSHANTI ANANDASHANTI? SOUNDS INDIAN: Indeed, it’s the younger sibling of Ananda in the Himalayas, and serves up a similar taste of the sub-continent, combined with a socking great slice of super luxury. (When the likes of Kylie and Natalie Imbruglia need to recharge their batteries, they head here to this isolated resort in its own bay on the south coast.) This place is all about R&R – and that means far more than the odd pampering spa treatment. Reckon on posh villas, private butlers – everything a superstar needs to get through the daily grind - and
some of the most dramatic scenery on the island.WHAT’S ON THE AGENDA? Expect a full mental, physical and spiritual diagnosis on arrival from ayurvedic consultant Dr Pramod Mane. He’ll customise your programme with therapists and chefs, to include menus, exercise, meditation and spa treatments. At the end of your stay, you’ll feel like a different person, says Dr Mane. Despite its dedication to well-being, this is a destination with a superb spa, rather than a destination spa, and as such it has taken strides to attract families. Testament to this is the recent opening of a kids’ club and staff who are nothing short of brilliant with children.
BEST FOR SOPHISTICATESONE&ONLY LE SAINT GERANI RECALL READING ABOUT THIS PLACE DECADES AGO… This grande dame is a real ’70s survivor: 34 years on, she’s
still primped to perfection, leaving upstart newcomers in the shade. And her experience counts for a lot: with amazing attention to detail, discretion, and every facility you could dream of, it’s no wonder A-listers helicopter in regularly to laze away the days in a fashionably fabulous beach tipi (made exclusively for Le Saint Géran by designer Alice Temperley). THE ACE UP THE SLEEVE? The food – two of the restaurants are run by Michelin-starred chefs. Super-picky palates will like Alain Ducasse’s Spoon des Iles, an intimate joint serving innovative multi ethnic dishes. But the jewel in the crown is Rasoi by Vineet restaurant: perched beside the ocean, it presents perfect dishes from one of the world’s top Indian chefs, Vineet Bhatia (the first to get a Michelin star in the UK). Dip into Indian tapas, or go for his signature black-spiced Tandoori chicken with tomato and cashew nut chutney, topped with pure gold leaf.
BEST FOR PERFECTIONISTSCONSTANCE LE PRINCE MAURICEIF YOU HAVE EXACTING STANDARDS you’ll find little cause to grumble with what’s on offer at this magnificent hotel. Here you’ll find five star service at its very best, which is apparent the moment you arrive: you’ll have a cooling drink thrust into one hand and a scented, ice-cold towel placed in the other while someone treats your sunglasses to a quick polish. As we won’t be the ones paying, we suggest you make the grandest of entrances and arrive via helicopter - there’s a helipad in the hotel’s grounds. Fittingly enough, accomodation is suite only - think wooden floors, antique furniture and bathrooms large enough to swing a clowder of cats in. ANYTHING TO DO? Absolutely. It’s just a question of what you fancy. There’s not one but two 18-hole golf courses - one a links - which are yours to play free of charge for the duration of your stay and two tennis courts to boot. And that’s before you step into the water where the list of aqua activities reads as long as your arm. Come nightfall, if you’re looking for a little romance we advise you to book a table at Le Barachois. It’s a floating restaurant set atop a fish-filled lagoon. where you’ll be serenaded by a chorus of croaking frogs and indulged in superb seafood.
Clockwise: MAIA Villa, Hotel Shanti Ananda, Medhufushi Resort, One&Only Le Saint Geran
INDIAN OCEAN
38 KWT
On the surface, the Maldives seem tailor-made for lazy honeymooners. Underwater, there’s a thrilling new world. Simon Rogerson throws himself into it, heart and shoal
A deeper love
If you really want to understand the rhythms of the Maldives, book a window seat. Flying across North Nilandhe Atoll on my way to the island of Filitheyo, I got my first glimpse of the necklace of coral islands and reefs that define this paradise. Between the pearls lurks a diver’s dream; hundreds of species of fish moving together in some of the biggest shoals in the Indian Ocean. And, even though I couldn’t see it, one of the sea’s most spectacular animals – an enigmatic giant – supposedly lurked in these waters too. The view was spectacular, but I couldn’t wait to be under the surface.On land, I kicked off my shoes as soon as decency permitted. Filitheyo is a big island by Maldivian standards, nearly a kilometre long with a dense interior of palm trees and mangroves. Guests either check in to a little house with its own patch of beach, or a slightly swankier bungalow over the water, where you can watch little rays and fish streaming across the shallows. I had opted for a beach villa, prompted in part by my fondness for sand, but mostly by the fact that honeymooners (the dominant species of Maldivian resorts) had claimed all the lagoon villas. Still, I was grateful for my little stretch. There’s something primal about walking barefoot on ivory-white sand – it’s a little sensory treat that tells the body to slow down, chill out and relish every minute of sunny bliss.
KWT 39 View through palm trees towards beach and Indian Ocean
40 KWT
It wasn’t long, though, before my thoughts turned to the ocean, so I headed straight to Filitheyo’s scuba centre to see if I could join the afternoon dive. Diving is the most popular sport in the Maldives: every island has a scuba centre, and they are run to a high standard, with modern, well-maintained equipment for hire. Each island has about 20-30 dive sites within an hour’s boat journey, catering for every level from beginner to expert. If you’re experienced and in search of thrills, you can visit the current-scoured atoll passes, but it’s just as easy to find sheltered, shallow dives within the lagoons, which are ideal for learners. I’d come to Filitheyo because it has a little bit of everything for divers: excellent sites around the edges of the atoll, coupled with a pretty fringing reef that I could swim to from my beach villa – in five minutes – for an early-morning snorkel. What’s more, the resort does (relatively) affordable luxury in a way that puts many rival Indian Ocean destinations to shame. Rooms – furnished with four-posters draped in natural shades – are a delight, and meals are renowned among repeat guests (just say ‘pineapple pancake’ and watch them dribble). Every scuba destination has its speciality, and in the Maldives it’s quantity – thousands and thousands of fish. Every day, nutrient-rich ocean water gets funnelled in and out of the atolls via passes. Time your dive to coincide with the turning of the tides, and you’ll be able to watch as the fish gather to feed. I took my first dive in the magic hour before sunset, when activity reaches a crescendo, and dappled late-afternoon light sparkles on the surface of the water. Carried along by the current, I watched a school of blue-lined snapper stream along the reef wall, hundreds of them moving as one in a bright yellow thunderball. Down on the reef, moray eels snarled from their lairs, while a rainbow army of basslets chomped on plankton carried by the moving water. I surfaced with the rest of the group, climbing back onto the dhoni, a traditional
wooden fishing boat that had been commandeered by the dive centre. As we chugged back to the island, I savoured strips of coconut, a popular après-dive snack in the Maldives. Back in the ’70s – when tourism was new here – coconut, rice and fish were pretty much all there was to eat, but the Filitheyo buffet later that night was an opulent expanse of international delicacies – made with fresh ingredients flown in that day from Sri Lanka. Scuba- diving makes you very hungry, but to my everlasting regret, it doesn’t involve enough exercise to actually shift pounds.As the ‘Maldives effect’ set in, the days merged and time slowed. I was spoilt, getting to swim with turtles, stingrays and other species you’d wait days to spot elsewhere. My eyes became accustomed to picking out hidden reef-dwellers such as the heroically ugly frogfish. The fish seemed quite unconcerned by the presence
of bubble-spewing divers in their domain, perhaps keeping one eye out for the speedier predators that haunt the reefs. There are few sharks here, but the reefs surrounding Filitheyo are haunted by moray eels and sinister silver barracuda – enough to give any hapless reef fish a sleepless night. Another day, another dhoni. The boatmen were breakfasting on mas huni – grated coconut with onion and flaked tuna – picking up the mix with pieces of freshly baked roshi bread. It’s one of those holiday meals that make perfect sense in a tropical context, although it never tastes the same when you attempt to recreate it at home. For once, I wasn’t interested in eating; there were rumours of manta rays nearby, and I was desperate to dive with them. These are the most graceful creatures in the sea, and while they’re notoriously hard to find, the Maldives has
“Carried along by the current, I watched a school of blue-lined snapper stream along the reef wall, hundreds of them moving as one in a bright yellow thunderball”
KWT 41
a sizeable population. They are true giants, measuring three to four metres across their pectoral fins, and to witness them cruising along a pristine Maldivian reef is a magical experience. At the beginning of every dive, there is a wonderful moment as you begin the descent, saying goodbye to the world of gravity and entering a different place with its own set of rules. I was still lost in reverie as I slowly fell through the cobalt-blue water, so I barely noticed when a big shadow passed overhead, briefly obscuring the sun. Alerted by the dive guide clanging on his cylinder with a knife, I looked up in time to see the ray beat its wings and sweep down to the reef in a steep, purposeful arc. For such a big creature, it moved with remarkable elegance, adjusting its trajectory with tiny gestures of those great fins. And then more and more of them came along, swimming over a strip of
sand adjacent to the reef, like stealth bombers on some secret mission. We had been told that they can approach divers, but their curiosity is tempered with caution. I found that whenever I swam directly towards one of them, it would quickly turn away with a reproachful flick of its fins. The trick was to position myself to one side and keep perfectly still. Sure enough, the rays changed direction, heading towards me and then ascending in a fluid, barrelling motion. One by one, they flew over my head, pausing briefly to bathe in the stream of bubbles I was exhaling. It was surreal – I was providing a scuba Jacuzzi for the rays, and they were loving it as much as I was.
WHEN TO GOTo maximise your chances of finding manta rays, the best time to visit Filitheyo is between November and May each year.
Deep secrets…More Indian Ocean sites to di(v)e for
ANDAMAN ISLANDSThe 362 Andaman Islands are some of the
least-explored destinations in the world – one even harbours a Stone Age tribe that’s resisted interference from the outside world altogether. Underwater, a total lack of commercial fishing licences mean a pristine reef teeming with outsized fish, enormous manta rays and schools of hammerhead sharks.
SEYCHELLESThe advent of affordable luxury in the
Maldives has made some of the Seychelles’ prestigious resorts look dated and expensive, but for many it is still the quintessential Indian Ocean hideaway. Adventurous divers regard remote Aldabra Atoll as one of the world’s great unspoiled dive sites, with its virgin reefs and unfished waters. Meanwhile, the world’s biggest fish – the filter-feeding whale shark – is seen regularly off the island of Mahé during the months of September and October, when it is possible to snorkel alongside the gentle giants.
NOSY BE ARCHIPELAGO, MADAGASCARPopular among more adventurous
yachties and backpackers, Nosy Be and its satellite islands present a glimpse of the Indian Ocean as it was 50 years ago. The islands are quiet and largely unexploited by mass tourism, so it’s more of an adventure than a getaway (and you need to speak a bit of French). The archipelago sits on a shallow stretch of the continental shelf, fostering the ideal environment for coral development. It’s particularly good for beginner divers and snorkelling, though the water can be a tad murky by Indian Ocean standards.
PEMBA ISLAND, TANZANIA
Along Pemba’s west coast, a jumble of mangroves and islets surrounds beautiful white-sand beaches. Underwater, although some of the reefs have been damaged by dynamite fishing, there are still plenty of healthy places where divers can watch a daily parade of basslets, angelfish and moray eels. All in all, a real African adventure.
INDIAN OCEAN
42 KWT
The Grand Palace in Bangkok
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Sophia Osman relaxes in one of the world’s the most chaotic cities.
Bangkok – the serene metropolis.
My first stop in Bangkok is ‘The Grand Palace’, sometimes known as Wat Phra Kaew, one of Bangkok’s biggest tourist icons. The exploration of the historical buildings will immerse you in a mystical world where monarchy and faith are visibly intertwined. Built in 1782, this royal court of almost one hundred buildings is a photographer’s dream with its golden, ice- cream shaped buildings propped up by statues of serpents and monkeys guarding vivid, mosaic thresholds. Formerly the residence of the Thai monarch, today the buildings are used for government purposes and royal ceremonies. However, a visit to The Grand Palace is everything you would expect from royal quarters; beautiful murals decorate the walls, telling their own story of ancient Thai life. Gold and silver have been blended into the buildings, reflecting the sunlight to create an even more impressive effect, heightening the sense of regality. Large bowls of lotus leaves are dotted around serving as a reminder of the Buddhist belief in purity. Intricately decorated doorways flanked by huge statues arouse your curiosity as to what lies beyond. And at the heart of it all is the much
revered Emerald Buddha housed in its ornate ‘boht’ and guarded by pairs of ‘yaksha’ or mythical giants. Cloaked in royal robes which are changed by the King each season, the small but perfectly formed jade Buddha more than makes up for its size in significance. Any traveller will know that getting lost is not necessarily a bad thing as long you don’t have a plane to catch. That’s why it’s best to give yourself plenty of time to discover the labyrinth of China Town or ‘Yaowarat’ as it is often referred to by the locals. It’s one of the oldest areas of the city, and the evolution of China Town precedes the birth of Bangkok. Chinese merchants originally occupied the land where The Grand Palace now lies. Yet the King’s decision to establish the capital in the 1780s resulted in the Chinese community resettling to where the modern day China Town lies. The addition of new roads over time has created the Alice-in-Wonderland, maze-like effect which holds tourists captive, sometimes literally, for hours on end.
Skip the hotel breakfast and enjoy an on-the-go culinary feast from the various street stalls serving everything from fresh fruit to meat.
I’m a city girl at heart; always have been and probably always will be. And while Paris, London, and New York will provide any city slicker with that adrenaline kick, Bangkok, in all its exotic, spicy glory, has a little something extra for the traveller that no other city is able to offer. A food lover’s delight, Bangkok stimulates every sense with its mix of restaurants, sight-seeing, shopping and shows. And a strong belief in ‘karma’ may be the reason Bangkok is
perhaps one of the friendliest cities. You will always be welcomed with a friendly ‘Sawadee’; hands joined together and a slight bow of the head wherever you go.
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“The floating markets inspire even the most reluctant shopper to reach for their baht”
Shops selling souvenirs, leather goods, bags, shoes and anything else you can think of will distract you as you meander through the small lanes, competing for space with the motorized, three-wheeler ‘tuk tuks’, scooters, delivery carts and mobile fruit juice stalls. But don’t be mistaken - food and shopping are not China Town’s only offerings. Whether planned or accidently stumbled upon, the monuments and old buildings, many of which are reflective of Chinese architectural history, will enchant every visitor. Wat Traimit houses the world’s largest Buddha which at over five tonnes is definitely worth a viewing. At the heart of the neighbourhood is Wat Mangkon Kamalawat – an historical Chinese spot that’s central to festivities such as Chinese New Year, reflecting its importance in the local community. If you’ve packed your trainers, a walking tour is a great way to experience everything China Town has to offer and
the day will leave a memorable imprint of your visit. Bangkok’s reputation for bargains is indisputable and travelling with a half empty suitcase to ensure you have enough room for all your inevitable purchases is a good idea. The Thai floating markets will inspire even the most reluctant shopper to reach for their baht. Walk ways and stalls built on a series of bridges criss-crossing over the water allow long boats to wander the small canals, selling food so aromatic, you’ll have a hard time resisting. I visited the Pattaya Floating Market but there are others closer to Bangkok including Damnoen Saduak, Amphawa Floating Market and Taling Chan all of which are easily reachable from the capital. Reminiscent of an age gone by when the river and all its channels were the main source of commerce and trade activity, the floating markets, or Talaat Naam as
they’re locally called, highlight the continued importance of the river at the heart of everyday life. The significance of the canals is also apparent at the river-side markets and Klongsuan market or Old Riverside market, which lies on the outskirts of Bangkok, is one of the oldest, dating back to the reign of King Rama V in the mid 1800s. You get the feeling that not too much has changed since then as you wander down one of the longest markets in the city at one kilometre in length. Tasty pit stops to sample different Thai snacks such as meats grilled on wooden skewers, freshly brewed iced coffee and traditional Thai sweets will keep you going as you wander through the character-ful stalls deciding what to buy. Bargain hunting doesn’t have to be limited to street stalls and if air-conditioned, multi level malls are more your bag, then there are a multitude of choices in Bangkok that offer some great deals. The MBK mall offers several floors of enjoyable browsing and the food court on the top level will provide the
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“The F1- aspiring tuk-tuk drivers will get you to your destination in record time”
energy boost you need to get through it all with different types of Asian food as well as a ‘dim sum’ cart that trundles amongst the tables offering hungry shoppers a delicious quick fix. When you’ve had your fill of the bustling city, one of the most relaxing things to do in Bangkok is to take a boat down the Chao Phraya river in a long-tail motor boat. Houses balanced on the edge of both banks of the waterway, some more precariously than others, all decorated in different shades, create a collage of colour against the muddy water. The journey provides a rare insight into Thai life, sometimes interspersed with large photos of the King and the royal family and sleeping locals, as well as the odd beautiful old building. Returning to dry land, the afternoon is completed with a Thai meal in one of the restaurants that lie along the river.As the sun sets in Bangkok, the city reveals
its true personality and an evening out can range from the most civilised outings to nights out that will leave you story-telling for years to come. Local foods and flavours will undoubtedly play a role in any evening activity whether it’s picking up a light snack from the various street stalls or dining out in one of the numerous restaurants. Amongst the most popular is Samboon Seafood, famous for its fried curry crab ; the restaurant’s popularity is visibly displayed on its walls with various photos of visiting famous politicians and celebrities. Dining, accompanied by traditional performances of Thai dancing and musicians, offers a cultural fix and is a great way to start the evening. As with many aspects of Thai culture, the traditional dancing is performed with beauty and grace. The telling of ancient stories through movement is captivating and the costumes alone are impressive enough
to stop you mid-mouthful. For more modern Thai entertainment, visit one of the cabaret shows, where performers impersonate famous singers, entertaining their audience with well-rehearsed lip-synching and flamboyant costumes. No evening would be complete without a hotel-bound trip on one of the city’s many tuk tuks. An experience in itself and not for the faint hearted, the F1- aspiring drivers will get you to your destination in record time. Bold, charismatic, and cosmopolitan, Bangkok charms every sense and has a magnetic quality that will appeal to any type of traveller. City life can be exhausting but amid all the traffic and chaos that make up a metropolis, Bangkok’s ability to rejuvenate through food, friendliness, and fantasy will leave you in no doubt of its inescapable charm. A mere stop-over is never enough and you’ll find yourself planning your next trip as you leave in the reassuring knowledge, that Bangkok is just the tip of the iceberg which is Thailand.
What are the best things to do in Singapore?There’s plenty to see and do in this city. Why not start off your trip with a visit to the Botanic Gardens, which contains stretches of untouched rainforest – refreshing and inspiring.
And what about some culture?Make a beeline straight for the Chinatown Heritage Centre to check out their authentic replications of 19th century homes and street scenes – very cool.
What sort of souvenirs should I pick up?Get yourself over to Sim Lim Square, where they’ve got a wonderful range of the very latest and greatest electronic
goods – and all for cheaper than you’ll find at home. Perhaps it’s time to upgrade your digital camera?
I’m more into clothes than electronics…In which case, you should stop by Haji Lane, an exceptionally cool area filled with up-and-coming Japanese and home-grown designers. It’s bursting with brands you won’t find anywhere else in the region – perfect for a late afternoon stroll.
Excellent, and how about some sightseeing?Get yourself onto the Singapore Flyer, a huge observation wheel which will give you bird’s eye views over the city. klapsons.com
CONCIERGESINGAPORE HAVANA BILBAO VENICE
THE 30-SECOND CONCIERGE
SINGAPORE
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CONCIERGE SINGAPORE
48 KWT
If you come expecting a Havana steeped in aspic, you’re in for an eye-opener. While it’s true you’ll see ’50s motors swarming about decaying colonial buildings, the old smell of poverty from crumbling blocks is gradually being overpowered by the new scent of fresh plaster – thanks to a decades-long restoration project. And as for the cars – there are now as many government-issue Ladas as classic Buicks. These dilapidated-but-delightful Cuban icons owe their presence to one man and his revolution. Even though he’s been bedridden
for three years, you can’t miss him: graffiti on every street eulogises Fidel Castro, whose 1959 ousting of American influence froze Cuba in time. So do as the locals do: get used to the timewarp, and celebrate…
WHERE TO STAY
NO EXPENSE SPARED SaratogaPaseo del Prado 603 (hotel-saratoga.com). Here, you’ll find everything you’d expect from a five-star hotel (which in Havana definitely shouldn’t be taken for granted). The rooftop pool – opposite the Capitolio building
– has knockout views as far as the Plaza de la Revolución. Rooms from $320, room only.
Hotel Santa IsabelBaratillo 9 (habaguanexhotels.com)This is possibly the most idyllic setting of all of Havana’s hotels – in a sprawling colonial mansion taking up one side of the sleepy Plaza de Armas. There’s a whopping rooftop terrace. Jack Nicholson and Jimmy Carter head up the celeb count. Rooms from $200, B&B.
MIDDLE OF THE ROADHotel RaquelCalle Amargura 103 (habaguanexhotels.com)
It’s all change in the Cuban capital – so join the party before the new dawn says Clare Ferro.
Visit Havana
ASK THE LOCAL
Hector Ramirez Abreu, runs casa particular
La Casa Hector
Cubans don’t have much money, so if we want to party,
we head to the Malecón wall and have a singsong.
Never buy cigars in the street – they’re probably fake.
Don’t miss the Playas del Este beaches, but avoid the
tourists and take a 20-minute taxi to Megano.
The water’s clear and warm, there’s only one cafe and
a few food stands – but there’s always a fiesta there!
CUBA
Nighttime in Havana
Here’s a sumptuous, newly renovated Art Nouveau building tucked behind the Plaza Vieja in a residential area. Rooms are big if basic (avoid those with internal windows); crowning glory is the rooftop terrace, where you can dine à deux in one of the Gaudí-esque
tiled turrets. Rooms from $150, B&B.
Hotel Los FrailesCalle Tte Rey 8 (hotellosfrailescuba.com)Despite the copper monk planted in the doorway and the habit-like uniforms of the workers, this 18th-century building
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CONCIERGE HAVANA
market’s the answer. Bargain hard.
Habana 1791 (Mercaderes 156; 00 537 861 3525). Perfumes and oils from flower extracts make this the place for girly gifts – and, at $3 for a 50ml bottle, it’s cheap, too.
Casa del Tabaco (Oficios 53)Here’s where Hollywood producers invest in fine Cuban cigars. You’ll
find more than 35 brands, and
500 different types of cigar, from the mini Montecristo
($36) to the Cohiba
Esplendido ($600 for a box of 25).
used to be a house, not a monastery. Nevertheless, the 22 recently decorated rooms emanate a meditative calm. Rooms from $140, B&B.
WHERE TO EAT
NO EXPENSE SPAREDLa GuaridaConcordia 418 (laguarida.com)The (entirely deserved) superlatives heaped upon La Guarida have made this paladar (small family-run restaurant) Havana’s best-known place to eat. Make your way through the spectacularly dilapidated building in Centro Havana to find dishes such as snapper in orange, and swordfish with pumpkin sauce and cardamom. Mains from $18.
La Cocina de LilliamCalle 48 (00 537 209 6514)Make like Jimmy Carter and order the ropa vieja (beef stew) at this cut-above paladar in an impressive Vedado villa. Dinner is served on the terrace and accompanied by lush foliage. Mains from $12.
MIDDLE OF THE ROADEl TempleteAve del Puerto, corner with Narciso Lopez (00 537 866 8807)Charming service and a good selection of fish cancel out the fact that you’re sitting on the main road. Leave some room for the brownie with caramelised banana – it’s superb. Mains from $12.
La MaisonCalle 16, 701 (00 537 204 1543).
First things first: the bog-standard food is not what you’re coming for when you eat at La Maison. You’re here for the experience of dining in a Versace-esque mansion that’s also home to one of Cuba’s top ‘fashion houses’. This means watching live catwalk shows as you eat, with barely a tourist among your fellow diners. An unmatchable experience. Mains from $10.
SHOPPING
Feria de la Artesania Tacon between Empedrado and Chacon; open Wed-Sat Cigar boxes, traditional guayabera shirts (like the waiters wear), dolls and the photos of Havana you didn’t quite dare take – if you’ve been wondering where to spend your cash, this
Clockwise from this image: Cuban lady, View of the capital building in Havana, Saratoga Hotel, old street in the Vedado quarter
OUR WOMEN IN HAVANA: Mother Teresa and
Princess Diana make unlikely Cuban icons, but they
each have a garden devoted to them – the former
next to the Greek Orthodox church, the latter just
north of Plaza San Francisco. 70 CENTS BUYS: A copy
of the party rag, Granma. MONEY MATTERS: Debit
cards don’t work in Cuba, and credit cards charge 11
per cent. Exchange money and travellers cheques
at cadecas, where you’ll get CUC (tourist currency);
make sure to get some Cuban pesos, too, to buy
street food and market produce.
50 KWT
It’s some task, catapulting a dowdy Spanish port into the upper echelons of the favourite-weekend-away stakes. Barcelona managed it; Valencia too. But neither has quite the dramatic rags-to-riches story of Bilbao. Barely more than a decade ago, the Basque capital – with its decaying iron foundries, steelworks and shipyards – would have had difficulty giving away air tickets and accommodation. So what went right? Big shots devised a grand plan for the coastal city, rustling up funds and conjuring a makeover that wouldn’t have shamed Cher. The catalyst, now a beacon for long-weekenders, was
Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim, aka ‘El Goog’. It opened in 1997 in a flash of warped titanium facades; since then, the city’s Neo-Classical beauty has been coaxed out of steam-cleaned buildings, the polluted Ría de Bilbao has been purged, and miles of walkways have been laid. With excellent new metro and tram systems, the city’s a cinch to navigate and a pleasure to discover.
WHERE TO STAY
NO EXPENSE SPAREDCarltonPlaza Federico Moyna 2 (hotelcarlton.es). Located in one of the smartest plazas, this
is the grande dame of Bilbao. It’s done up classically, with marble, period furniture and high vaulted ceilings, but rooms don’t neglect essential 21st-century technology. Rooms from $400, B&B.
SheratonLehendakari Leizaola 29 (sheraton.com/bilbao). OK, it’s a business hotel, but it’s stylish, with a hacienda design and Santa Fe colours – adobe pinks, terracottas and yellows. There’s a tiny pool, charming staff and great service. Rooms from $270, B&B.
MIDDLE OF THE ROADMiróhotelAlameda Mazarredo 77 (design hotels.com)
Time travel is possible: just cross the river from pretty history to modernity in the Basque capital, says Mike North
Visit Bilbao ASK THE LOCAL
Susanne Dittrich is an interpreter, translator
and guide who has lived in the Basque Country
for 20 years
Make time for the elegant resort of Getxo, just 15
minutes by metro but surprisingly overlooked. It’s a
nice contrast to urban Bilbao, with sea sports, laid-back
beach life, nature reserves and Algorta, a quaint old
fishing port. The gastronomy, especially the pintxos,
is terrific and great value: my tip is Cafe Aker (Calle
is a cinematic vista of summer palaces and mansions,
some turned into boutique hotels. You can absorb all
this from Biskaia Bridge (a Unesco World Heritage Site).
Take the glass lift to the footbridge suspended 50m
above ground. Truly breathtaking.
The brainchild of Spanish fashion designer Antonio Miró is a boutique hotel with interiors of Minimalist white, except for the striking black marble bathrooms. Just around the corner from the Guggenheim, it’s the ideal base for art-lovers. Rooms from $180, room only.
Tryp ArenalLos Fueros 2 (solmelia.com).You’re right on the edge of the Old Town, so there’s plenty of life on the doorstep. Rooms are traditionally furnished in co-ordinated schemes, and most are spacious. Hang out in the coffee shop or schmooze in
Guggenhein Museum
SPAIN
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WORD IS OUT: With more Xs than Simon Cowell, the Basque lingo, Euskera,
is hard to grasp. But charm locals with the phrase eskerrik asko – that’s ‘thanks’.
LITTER LOUT: In pintxos lounges, always throw paper napkins on the floor – only shy
tourists leave them on plates or surfaces. OUT OF PUFF? Smokers rejoice: you’re still
allowed to light up in some clubs and restaurants. EL CHEAPO: Don’t set off without a
BilbaoCard (bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo; valid from one to three days, $22 max): unlimited
‘hop on ’n’ off’, plus great discount deals around town. THEY GET A KICK: Bilbainos
support Bilbao Athletic (www.athletic-club.net) with a passion. Everyone else is
disdained. Don’t get drawn in.
the lounge. Rooms from $160, B&B.
WHERE TO EAT
NO EXPENSE SPAREDZortzikoAlmeda Mazarredo 17 (zortziko.es). Chef Daniel Garcia takes trad Basque and tweaks it, creating dishes such as salt-cod-and-truffle-ice-cream. Two dining rooms – one classic, one modern – share a Michelin-starred menu. Stretch, if you can, to the 11-course degustation menu for $120. Mains from $40.
Restaurant GuriaGran Via 66 (restauranteguria.com)Superlatively cooked ingredients are a constant at this smart restaurant/brasserie, where the chef, Genaro Pildain, is known as ‘King of Cod’.
Regulars return for the multi-course tasting menus, with generous portions (from $100 with drinks), and the avuncular waiters. Mains from $36.
MIDDLE OF THE ROADVictor MontesPlaza Nueva 8 (victormontes bilbao.com). Welcome to a local landmark, nicely rowdy downstairs at peak times, with atmospheric dining rooms on two floors. Go for great roasts and grilled meats, cod and squid dishes. Or prop up the lounge and snack on txangurro (spider crab in puff pastry). Mains from $30.
Restaurante KaskoSanta Maria 16 (restaurante kasko.com). It’s buzzy here, with friendly waiters. Bare-brick walls with contemporary pictures run one side; a long
bar advances down the other. Large helpings of well-cooked comfort food might include stews, rice dishes and kebabs. Three-course lunch from $22.
SHOPPING
Artesania VascaPlaza Nueva 10 (artesaniavasca.net). It’s a standard souvenir shop, but among the tacky knick-knacks there are pleasing wooden boxes, ceramics and scarves. From $6.
GorostiagaCalle del Victor 3 (00 34 94 416 1276). Trad Basque men’s txapela (berets) look good worn at a jaunty angle, whether you’re male or female. From $32.
designer T-shirts and coffee-table books. Packs of postcards from $4; Jeff Koons’ mouse mat, $16.
Alacena del Victor MontesPlaza Nueva 12 (victormontesbilbao.com).This deli sells Basque specialities, including jars of peppers, packaged meats and preserves.
Sheraton HotelTop right: Carlton Hotel Suite
Bottom right: Zubizuri footbridge, by architect
Santiago Calatrava
52 KWT
The holiday crowds might pile in to admire its beauty in sunny spring and long, hot summer, but Venice is a northern soul, and it really comes into its own in winter. Mists move in above the dark Adriatic waters, evening descends atmospherically over the exotic palaces and cupolas that cluster on the skyline, and the city they call ‘La Serenissima’ stirs from its shell. When the Bora wind whips across the lagoon, you’ll understand why fur never went out of fashion here. Fake the fluffiness and stave off the chill with hot
chocolate and spicy apple strudel in one of the opulent-yet-cosy coffee houses that have graced St Mark’s Square since the 19th century. Then head off to do your shopping in one of the festive markets that set up shop in the grand palace- hemmed squares…
NO EXPENSE SPAREDThe Westin Europa & ReginaCorte Barozzi, San Marco 2159 (westin.com) This luminous place unfurls through five palaces overlooking the Salute on the Grand Canal. Pastel fabrics, stucco work and
tasselled silk curtains imbue rooms with old-fashioned charm. Rooms from $540, B&B.
Ca’SagredoCampo Santa Sofia 4198/99 (casagredohotel.com)A Byzantine palace on the Grand Canal, with frescoes by Tiepolo, plenty of marble, and rooms decked out in damask silk. The posh southern Italian restaurant also does a great hamburger and chips. Rooms from $500, B&B.
MIDDLE OF THE ROADOltre Il GiardinoFondamenta Contarini, San Polo 2542 (oltreilgiardino-venezia.com)
Glittering with frescoes and festive markets, the city is most seductive in misty mid-winter says Rachel Spence
Visit Venice ASK THE LOCAL
Patrizia Fiorenza is an Anglo-Italian fashion designer
who, together with her sister Samantha, runs the
Godi Fiorenza label
My favourite breakfast haunt is Caffè del Doge (Calle
dei Cinque, San Polo) – coffee here is treated as an
art form and they serve fabulously fresh orange juice.
To see quirky shows by talented unknown artists, I
check out Libreria Mondadori (Salizada San Moisè
1345, San Marco; 00 39 041 277 6766), an enterprising
new exhibition space. When I’m homesick for London,
I swap my novels at the Libreria Marco Polo (Calle
del Teatro Malibran, 5886/A; 00 39 348 569 1125), an
English-language bookshop and paperback exchange.
For the spectacle, nothing rivals the stalls of slithery
fresh fish at the Rialto Market (Pescheria, Rialto).
ITALY
Venice in wintertime
WHERE TO STAY
Far from tourist central yet close to all that counts, this canal-side, farmhouse-style residence gazes upon a garden with roses and magnolia trees. Art Deco lights, fur rugs and avant-garde paintings enhance rooms. Rooms from $300, B&B.
Pensione BucintoroRiva dei Sette Martiri, 2135/A Castello (hotelbucintoro.com) All 20 rooms here enjoy a stellar view over St Mark’s Basin. A recent facelift has given rooms a nautical-chic makeover, contrasting dark-wood panelling
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CONCIERGE VENICE
with brass lamps and cream and gilt fabrics. Towelling robes and friendly service live up to four-star expectations. Rooms from $250, B&B.
WHERE TO EAT
NO EXPENSE SPAREDDa FioreCalle del Scaleter, San Polo 2002 (dafiore.net)Dine in the company of whichever celebs are in town. With one Michelin star, a signora chef and a way with raw fish that could teach the Japanese a few tricks,
this seafood eatery is as cool as George Clooney – who may have bagged a prized window seat well before you. Mains from $60.
Hostaria Da FranzFondamenta San Giuseppe, Castello 754 (hostariadafranz.com)The improbable but picturesque location on a canal in Castello – where Venetians live and tourists are lost – merely houses the charm of this swanky seafood restaurant. Try sardines in vinegar and onions, or marinaded
baby octopus. Mains from $40.
MIDDLE OF THE ROADAnice StellatoFondamenta della Sensa, Cannaregio 3272 (00 39 041 720744) Here’s a rustic spot, where cranky old Venetians knock nibbles at the counter until lunchtime, when serious diners arrive for spicy seafood such as tandoori tuna and razza (white fish). Mains from $20.
Da’AciughetaCampo Santi Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4357
Clockwise: Santa Maria della Salute, Staircase of ArchitectTirali - Ca’ Sagredo, Ca’Sagredo Lobby, Narrow canal, The Westin Europa & Regina
BUILDING BRIDGES: Venice’s Fourth Bridge, by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, is the first modern
structure in the city, and it’s a stunner, in steel, glass and red lights. MASTER STROKES: When the poet Lord
Byron lived in Venice in the early 19th century, he used to swim from his palace on the Grand Canal, across the
lagoon to the famous sandbar, the Lido. ROW WITH THE FLOW: Venetians do it standing up – row, that is. You can
too, thanks to Australian rowing teacher Jane Caporal (rowvenice.com). $50 BUYS: A three-day travelcard which
lets you go anywhere a waterbus will take you – even to Torcello. (At $10 each, single tickets are steep.)
CROWD SCENE: The population of Venice is put at 61,000. The number of visitors? 50,000. Daily.
(aciugheta-hotelrio.it)Restaurants patronised by gondoliers are always up to scratch. But the trays of nibbles at the counter here are so delectable – meatballs, deep-fried mozzarella and rice – you may never make it to the restaurant, where spaghetti with lobster is finger-licking good. Mains from $24.
SHOPPING
EbrûCampo Santo Stefano 3471, San Marco (albertovalese-ebru.com).
Browse the marbled-paper objects – cards, diaries, paintings, wastepaper bins – all made by owner Alberto Valese according to a Turkish technique.
L’Ottico FabbricatoreCalle del Lovo, San Marco 4773 (otticofabbricatore.com). Cashmere sweaters, trendsetting sunglasses and over-sized handbags – each more beautiful and individual than the last.
Main StreetAl KhamseenWadi Ad DawasirTel. 01 784 6500
Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list of the most popular Kanoo Travel offices, find one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality...
Green Community MallJebel Ali RoadDubaiTel. 04 885 3321
Kanoo Travel – American ExpressHermitage BuildingAl KaramaTel. 04 334 9219
Najda StreetAbu DhabiTel. 02 678 0400
Kanoo Holidays DubaiTel. 04 334 1444 / 315 6624
Marine Travel ServicesDubaiTel. 04 335 1314
Airport OfficeDubaiTel. 04 393 1963
Kanoo TravelCorniche, Abu DhabiTel. 02 631 3900 / 631 8187
UKBirmingham American Express Bank House. 8 Cherry Street Tel. 0121 644 5514 / 0121 644 5560
BournemouthAmerican Express 95A Old Christchurch Road Tel. 0787 260 0528 / 01202 780 752 BrightonAmex House Implant American Express Ground Floor Amex House Edward Street Tel. 01273 525 041 / 040 Bristol American Express 74 Queens Road Tel. 01179 065 107 / 105
Cardiff American Express 3 Queen Street Tel. 02920 649 305 / 02920 649 301 Coventry American Express 5 Cathedral Lanes Shopping Centre Tel. 02 47 622 5511 / 0787 260 0528 Croydon American Express 2-4 High Street Tel. 0208 256 0808 / 0805
Edinburgh American Express 69 George Street 0131 718 2508 / 0131 718 2505
EssexLakeside Bureau American Express Lakeside Shopping Centre West Thurrock Way West Thurrock Grays Tel. 01708 890 654 Glasgow American Express 66 Gordon StreetTel. 0141 225 2905 / 0141 225 2908” Guildford American Express 38-40 High Street Tel. 01483 551 607 / 01483 551 605
Leicester American Express 1 Horsefair Street Tel. 0116 242 1808 / 0116 242 1805
LondonHaymarket American Express 30 – 31 Haymarket Tel. 0207 484 9674 / 0207 484 9600 London Credit Swiss First Boston American Express Travel Office C/O Credit Suisse One Cabot Square Canary Wharf Tel. 0207 888 4196 LondonHolborn Bureau American Express 156a Southampton Row Tel. 0787 260 0528 / 0207 837 4416 LondonKensington High St American Express 84 Kensington High Street Tel. 0207 795 6703 LondonKnightsbridge American Express 78 Brompton Road Tel. 0207 761 7908 / 7900,
LondonAmerican Express 1 Savoy Court The Strand Tel. 0207 240 1521 Milton KeynesAmerican Express 670 Silbury Boulevard Tel. 01908 608 877 Manchester American Express 10-12 St Mary’s Gate Tel. 0161 833 7301 / 0161 833 7301 Nottingham American Express 2 Victoria Street Tel. 0115 924 7705 / 0115 924 7701 Plymouth American Express 139 Armada Tel. 01752 502 707 / 01752 502 702
Sheffield American Express 20 Charles Street, Sheffield Tel. 0114 263 9308 / 0114 263 9305 Southampton American Express 99 Above Bar Tel. 02380 716 808 / 805 York American Express6 Stonegate Tel. 01904 676 505
KWT 55
CONCIERGE WHERE TO BOOK
6KWT
THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE JUNE 2009
SUMMER LOVING
SIGHTSEEING IN PRAGUE + FESTIVALS IN BEIRUT + RESTAURANTS IN DOHA + SHOPPING IN DUBAI
ACTION BREAK
FIVE STAR TREKKING IN THE ANDES
A LUXURY STAY AT DUBAI’S THE PALACE - THE OLD TOWN
WIN
6KWT
INCLUDING... OMAN MASAI MARA KATHMANDU BHUTAN EGYPT
14THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE AUGUST 2009
Korea AdviceDISCOVERING THE JOYS OF BUSAN
Wizard in Oz12 MONTHS OF FUN DOWN UNDER
114 bright ideas for Eid
Greek IslandsWill you pick Paxos, choose Chios, select Schinousa or opt for the Ionians? We’ve uncovered Greece’s finest holiday spots, from Agistri to Zakynthos…
GGGGGGGGTOTAL GUIDE
WIN A luxury all-inclusive stay in Turkey at the Rixos Premium Belek
New Orleans bounces back
Locals’ tips on Madrid
++
LLLLocals’ tips
Insider guides
Cultural fun in Vilnius
6KWT
A YEAR OF EVENTS IN SWEDEN’S COOLEST CITY
THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE JULY 2009
OFF-RADAR NEW YORK
BANGKOK FOR BON VIVEURS
SHORT-HOP BREAK
TOTAL GUIDE
HEADING HOME TO THE BEAUTIFUL INDIAN OCEAN A LUXURY STAY WITH THE MARRIOTT GROUP
WIN
Take a gourmet tour of Croatia, find a countryside hideaway in Turkey, and discover the coolest spa in Cyprus…
TAKING STOCKHOLM
BEGINNER’S BERLIN
6KWT
THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2009
WIN A first class break in Dubai, courtesy of the Courtyard by Marriott (see p8)
New ZealandYour total guide to blissful Kiwi experiences,
from trout-fishing in Lake Tarawera to helicopter hiking on the Hump Ridge Track...
NNNNNTOTAL GUIDE
BRAZIL NUTSFANTASTIC EVENTS
FROM RIO TO BELEM
GO GLAMPING
THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS CAMPSITES
IT’S NOT TOO LATE TO BOOK A BREAK
A GRAND TOUR OF THE MEDITERRANEAN GEM
Last minute Eid options
CYPRUS THRILL
Where to shop in Kuala Lumpur
Where to stay in Vienna
++
Wh t t
Insider guides
Where to eat in Rome
PLUS: CHECK OUT OUR NEW BUSINESS TRAVEL SECTION...
WHEEL ADVENTURECROSSING THE ICEFIELDS PARKWAY
Did you know…That Kanoo World Traveller magazine has a BPA-audited circulation figure of
22,620*
…and has the largest BPA-audited circulation in Saudi Arabia, reaching 14,460 readers in Riyadh, Jeddah and Damman?
…and that the magazine also distributes 8,160 copies across the UAE, Bahrain and Oman?
…reaching corporate clients as well as consumers, with distribution into companies such as BAE, GTS Aramco, Investcorp, Philip Morris, Ford Motors, IBC, Siemens and Sun Microsystems?
To get involved with the magazine, contact Chris Capstick on +971 50 456 9938 / +971 4 369 0917 / [email protected]
* Issue of May 2009
SUITEDREAMSLUTE SUITES, THE NETHERLANDSJust outside of Amsterdam (you can be in the town centre in 15 minutes), in the olde worlde gorgeousness of Ouderkerk aan de Amstel lie the Lute Suites, a high design beauty built in the site of an 18th-century gunpowder factory. The hotel is based around chef Peter Lute’s superb restaurant, and comprises a series of lovely cottages, all with river views, and which play home to seven individually-designed suites. Stunning Boffi furniture and Bisazza mosaics have been used to create a slick, modern feel, and strange and attractive objects by the architect, Marcel Wanders, are strewn about the space. luitesuites.nl
CONCIERGE SUITE DREAMS
Welcome to the ultimate New Year’s Eve odyssey, a thrilling carnival of colour and costume, of feasting, dance and live music. A unique fusion of Brazilian energy and Venetian elegance. Enjoy access to each of our venues, all equally dressed to impress with the entire hotel transformed into a wonderland of magic and mystery… a fantasy island on the Abu Dhabi seafront.
Price: AED 790* per guest
Venue: Al Raha Beach Hotel, Abu Dhabi
Date: Thursday, December 31st 2009
Doors Open: 8:30pm until late
To take your place at this year’s most anticipated celebration,call 02 5080555
Managed by Danat Hotels & ResortsP.O. Box 38616, Abu Dhabi, UAETel: +971 2 5080555E-mail: C&[email protected] www.danathotels.com
* Exclusive of 10% service charge and 6% tourism fee.
