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A Fragrant Relationship:
The Role of Perfume in our Lives
Issue 4
Autumn 2011
Nail
Fetish!
Mediterranean Inspiration
The
Color
Story
2
IN THIS ISSUE
September 2011
What we love, what we saw, how we live…
Editor’s Notes 3
A Fragrant Relationship — The Role of Perfume in our Lives 4-9
Nail Fetish! 10-11
Color Story 12-13
Mediterranean Inspiration 14
3
EDITOR’S NOTES Let me tell you this...
Autumn—or Fall—whichever word you prefer for this time of year, is a time of renewal. Although
Spring obviously gets the major rep as a time of rebirth, I make the case for Fall.
Why? We start thinking about the end of the year. We get new clothing or rework what we have in
our closets. We rethink the colors we’re wearing. If you’re like me, you change your curtains and
throw pillows to give the home a “new” look. I even re-upholstered my dining room chairs. Already
thinking ahead to plans for Thanksgiving and the December holidays, this is a busy time.
So, as you’re going about your business this season, think “renewal.” Cast a critical eye in your closet
and donate any clothing you no longer wear. Do a “Fall” cleaning around the house. Redecorate by
changing pictures, curtains, pillows and objets d’art around from one room to another—you’ll be
surprised how new something looks when it’s moved from a familiar place. Finally, think of renewing
yourself. Try a new hair color. Wear a shoe with a different heel. Try longer skirts. Change your
handbag. Just as you renew your living space, renew yourself.
This quarter, we’re renewing as well: our business, our styles, our fabrics, our ideas.
In the midst of a dark and scary economic climate, we sold out our entire collection of easy-to-wear
silk and silk blend tops. It wasn’t easy. We ventured far afield and went international.
Next season, we will introduce some new items, but we’re staying faithful to our design model -
which is tops that slip on and off easily, fit many women’s bodies, and flatter. We hope you
continue on this journey with us. Thank you for reading.
To give us your feedback, please log on to our website at
www.mediterraneoresortwear.com
or simply email us at [email protected]. We’d love to hear from you.
Enjoy the season!
Angela Draper
4
Perfume, the quintessence of luxury and refinement, has existed in every culture and religion. Through the centuries, perfume has been a part of religious and cultural rites, has had a part in medicine, in the art of love, of desire and of seduction. Since the beginning of time, almost everything has been perfumed; women, men, animals, statues, temples, tombs, homes, churches, palaces, fountains, food…
A SACRED ROLE Since man’s beginnings, odorous vapors have risen to the heavens as offerings to the gods. In ancient civilizations, perfumes were as mystical as they were precious. Vaporizations had a very important place in religious rites because of their purifying role and their wonderful fragrances. The Egyptians communicated with their gods by offering them perfumes. Resins and odorous essences burned to the glory of gods in all the sacred places and in exchange for these offerings,
the pharaohs and their subjects asked the gods for favors.
Aromatics played a particularly important role in the rites of the Hebrews. The Bible frequently mentions incense, reserved exclusively for the Lord and his rites. At the top of the famous Tower of Babel, priests lit mounds of incense. Charged with elevating prayers to heaven, incense is in a sense part of the priestly function. The usage of incense, which is universal, always has the same symbolism: it associates man to god, the finite to infinite, and the mortal to the immortal. Egyptians and Hebrews both used incense in their sacred rites
The etymology of the Egyptian word for “incense” means “odor of god,” or product that makes one divine. And if one believes the legend, grains of incense are born of the tears and sweat of the gods.
Perfume symbolizes memory, and perhaps this is one of the reasons for its use in funeral rites. For
the Egyptians, perfumes were a representation of divinity: They prevented the rotting of the
human body and gave it a sweet fragrance which made it more lovable to the gods.
For the Greeks, the presence of the gods manifested itself by a sublime odor. Since the gods smelled good, perfumed substances were considered to have a divine origin. In Christianity, good souls are said to emit a good odor after death, and that is the criterion for their sanctification. Saint Rose of Viterbe smelled of roses, Saint Catherine of Ricci of violets…This contrasts with the odor of sulfur said to be emitted by the Devil. Incense and myrrh came from the Orient with the Three Kings and they are still in our churches; sandalwood still has a place in the sacred temples of India; the Buddha’s lotus flower, the sign of knowledge, and the Virgin Mary’s lily, a symbol of purity, still touch our spirituality…no one can doubt that the first function of perfume was to establish forever a link between the earth and
heaven, between men and the gods… A MEDICINAL ROLE From spirituality to medicine, there was only one step. Men have always believed that perfume has an effect on our emotions and our health. Once the Romans discovered the surprising curative power of incense and myrrh, which had until then been reserved for sacred rituals, odorous materials became an important element in medical therapeutics. To chase away bad odors by good odors – was without a doubt one of the rules that pervaded up to the 18th century. In order to protect themselves against the Plague, they burned perfumes made with sulfur at the city
gates, and also burned wood and odorous plants. And, to guard against evil spirits and certain ills, they inhaled aromatic substances which were placed in a so-called “pomander.”
A Fragrant Relationship:
The Role of Perfume in Our Lives
5
Perfume, the quintessence of luxury and refinement, has existed in every culture and religion. Through the centuries, perfume has been a part of religious and cultural rites, has had a part in medicine, in the art of love, of desire and of seduction. Since the beginning of time, almost everything has been perfumed; women, men, animals, statues, temples, tombs, homes, churches, palaces, fountains, food…
A SACRED ROLE Since man’s beginnings, odorous vapors have risen to the heavens as offerings to the gods. In ancient civilizations, perfumes were as mystical as they were precious. Vaporizations had a very important place in religious rites because of their purifying role and their wonderful fragrances. The Egyptians communicated with their gods by offering them perfumes. Resins and odorous essences burned to the glory of gods in all the sacred places and in exchange for these offerings,
the pharaohs and their subjects asked the gods for favors.
Aromatics played a particularly important role in the rites of the Hebrews. The Bible frequently mentions incense, reserved exclusively for the Lord and his rites. At the top of the famous Tower of Babel, priests lit mounds of incense. Charged with elevating prayers to heaven, incense is in a sense part of the priestly function. The usage of incense, which is universal, always has the same symbolism: it associates man to god, the finite to infinite, and the mortal to the immortal. Egyptians and Hebrews both used incense in their sacred rites
The etymology of the Egyptian word for “incense” means “odor of god,” or product that makes one divine. And if one believes the legend, grains of incense are born of the tears and sweat of the gods.
Perfume symbolizes memory, and perhaps this is one of the reasons for its use in funeral rites. For
the Egyptians, perfumes were a representation of divinity: They prevented the rotting of the
human body and gave it a sweet fragrance which made it more lovable to the gods.
For the Greeks, the presence of the gods manifested itself by a sublime odor. Since the gods smelled good, perfumed substances were considered to have a divine origin. In Christianity, good souls are said to emit a good odor after death, and that is the criterion for their sanctification. Saint Rose of Viterbe smelled of roses, Saint Catherine of Ricci of violets…This contrasts with the odor of sulfur said to be emitted by the Devil. Incense and myrrh came from the Orient with the Three Kings and they are still in our churches; sandalwood still has a place in the sacred temples of India; the Buddha’s lotus flower, the sign of knowledge, and the Virgin Mary’s lily, a symbol of purity, still touch our spirituality…no one can doubt that the first function of perfume was to establish forever a link between the earth and
heaven, between men and the gods… A MEDICINAL ROLE From spirituality to medicine, there was only one step. Men have always believed that perfume has an effect on our emotions and our health. Once the Romans discovered the surprising curative power of incense and myrrh, which had until then been reserved for sacred rituals, odorous materials became an important element in medical therapeutics. To chase away bad odors by good odors – was without a doubt one of the rules that pervaded up to the 18th century. In order to protect themselves against the Plague, they burned perfumes made with sulfur at the city
gates, and also burned wood and odorous plants. And, to guard against evil spirits and certain ills, they inhaled aromatic substances which were placed in a so-called “pomander.”
The Three Kings
6
The Plague
At the end of the 18th century, vaporizations fell into disfavor and people were counseled to use vinegar because of its disinfectant powers. This was the beginning of the use of “flower waters,” which quickly became part of a lady’s “toilette.” Massaging one of these vinegar waters – containing either rose, lavender, rosemary, camphor or cloves – or to allow it to evaporate so as to take in its vapors – became a daily ritual.
A Pomander
7
A CULINARY ROLE Our sense of smell is not only tied to the odors that surround us, but is also very closely linked to our palate. Many aromas are captured by our sense of smell – and combined with our identification of the salty, sweet, acidic, and bitter – make possible our enjoyment of eating. Cooking raw foods is a sign of civilization, and the addition of aromatics to these foods is without a doubt a step forward in the refinement of civilization. Synonymous with heat and color, spices have been used since the time of the ancient Egyptians to flavor and preserve foods. During feasts that lasted all night, ancient Romans ate prodigiously: well spiced foods and floral perfumes mixed with their wines. Wines perfumed with violets, hyacinth, and rose were very popular.
The Arabs, however, were particularly fond of rose water and used it to perfume ices and sweets. They also drank perfumed waters and coffee mixed with ambergris. In the Middle Ages, spices and perfumed products, heretofore
unknown in Europe, were brought from
the Orient by the Crusaders. The widespread use of these products made spices and their trade a most
valuable business.
8
The expression “as expensive as pepper,” which was common during the Renaissance, attests to
the power of spices. As a matter of fact, one could purchase products with grains of pepper or
cloves. In the 17th century, different spices were used in cooking; spices such as sage, ginger,
cardamom, fennel, anise, coriander, cinnamon and saffron were served in the form of a snack,
accompanied by wines flavored with aromatic liquors
Since then, much progress has been made by chemistry to introduce us to artificial flavors in our
foods. These chemists are the same, by the way, who produce aromas for the perfume industry.
Nevertheless, although synthetic aromas have enriched the perfumer’s palette of odors, these
synthetics only imitate or replace odors existing in nature.
A SENSUAL ROLE
Perfume is one of the favorite expressions of love and passion. Perfume and seduction have been
forever linked in the game of inciting desire.
Choosing a perfume corresponds to the deepest desires within a person and reflects our hidden
sensuality. As a matter of fact, a woman wears
a perfume much as she wears clothing.
Perfume dresses us in an image. It is dual in
nature, since it is both intimate and
exhibitionistic.
Within a sexual relationship, the smell of one’s
mate can be intoxicating. A perfumed smell
emanating from a loved one’s body can be an
aphrodisiac that awakens desire. Whether
they are animal essences, soft balms or
voluptuous florals, each has a way of inciting
the senses.
“Smell good in order to seduce,” was a rule
that accompanied the rites of marriage of the
ancient civilizations.
9
legend, the panther is the only animal that emits a fragrant odor to capture its victims. It hides and
lets its fragrance attract victims.
Love potions have been used in every era.
And our society is no different. In 1965,
pheromones were discovered. These are
molecules that regulate the sexual relations of
animals, and are thought to be useful
aphrodisiacs. The idea of making a man a love
slave is such an attractive though hidden
desire of many women, that several perfume
houses launched perfumes using these
molecules – whose power has still not been confirmed scientifically.
A RECIPE FOR A LOVE POTION
Combine the following: One drop of Orange Blossom essential oil; 2 drops of Rose essential oil; 3
drops of Sandalwood essential oil; 2 drops of Ylang-Ylang essential oil; 3 ounces of Clary Sage
essential oil; 1 ounce of Almond oil. Mix together and store in a dark place. Use for massage. Do
use this massage oil with care; it is known as the “Aphrodisiac Blend!”
Perfume’s power of seduction seems great, but it is illusory. Whatever the role one gives it: to
seduce, to flavor foods, to help our well-being, or to honor the gods, perfume has always been a
part of our lives. Knowingly or not, we use perfume in our daily dealings with others. And while
perfume is the most refined expression of our most savage sense, its magic is such that it takes us
back in time to our fondest memories.
Isn’t it impossible to imagine a world without perfume?
10
NAIL FETISH!
What is it about nail color that has exploded in the last five years? From St. Petersburg to New York, and
from Paris to Sydney, the craze for nail enamel has solidified and grown exponentially. Is it driven by the wonderful colors now so fashionable, but once not-to-be-considered for nail polish? Consider the yellows, the blues, the greens and black; and what of the crackles and the mattes? Nail polish is the subject of myriad blogs and magazine articles. Movie starlets are photographed in marvelous shades that telegraph their “it girl” quotient. Models wear the range of blues that are now so de rigueur, that they’re a nail shade staple.
The reds, the pinks, the burgundies and the corals of yesterday still live on. They are after all, classics. But the new shades have taken hold and taken off. And the new and adventurous brands out there: It’s a cornucopia of brands and designer names.
The packaging’s fantastic too. Those bottles with their wonderful caps and chic fonts are dreamy. They sell an attainable fantasy – like all cosmetics do. But there’s something about polish….Chanel, MAC, Dior, Priti, L’Oreal, Essie, OPI, Nars, Deborah Lippmann, or Butter London. Just looking at the bottles gives me a rush of pleasure…it’s much the same feeling I used to experience when opening up a brand new box of Crayola Crayons. Oh my God, but that was awesome! All those beautiful colors lined up in perfect rows just waiting to be touched – in fact – I hesitated to touch them because once used, the crayons wouldn’t have the same appeal.
I’ve felt that kind of excited rush since then: In book stores; in shoe stores, at lipstick counters, in fabric shops. It’s a rush of pleasure from having all those choices, from seeing all those colors, from the knowing that I could, conceivably, choose any of them. I can’t read all the books that draw me in. I can’t buy all the shoes (alas!). All the lipstick shades don’t flatter me. My mother no longer sews for me, so there’s no use to get all those fabrics…
But nail polish! As long as I have my fingers and toes – I can adorn them with classic, flashy, innocent, crazy, or daring colors. I can try seasonal shades. I can do one color on my fingers and another on my toes. I can go from wearing white on my toes, to wearing raven. I can coordinate top and bottom. I can clash. Then I go bare for a few weeks to give the nails a rest: and then the cycle starts anew. It’s an achievable fantasy.
11
NAIL FETISH!
What is it about nail color that has exploded in the last five years? From St. Petersburg to New York, and
from Paris to Sydney, the craze for nail enamel has solidified and grown exponentially. Is it driven by the wonderful colors now so fashionable, but once not-to-be-considered for nail polish? Consider the yellows, the blues, the greens and black; and what of the crackles and the mattes? Nail polish is the subject of myriad blogs and magazine articles. Movie starlets are photographed in marvelous shades that telegraph their “it girl” quotient. Models wear the range of blues that are now so de rigueur, that they’re a nail shade staple.
The reds, the pinks, the burgundies and the corals of yesterday still live on. They are after all, classics. But the new shades have taken hold and taken off. And the new and adventurous brands out there: It’s a cornucopia of brands and designer names.
The packaging’s fantastic too. Those bottles with their wonderful caps and chic fonts are dreamy. They sell an attainable fantasy – like all cosmetics do. But there’s something about polish….Chanel, MAC, Dior, Priti, L’Oreal, Essie, OPI, Nars, Deborah Lippmann, or Butter London. Just looking at the bottles gives me a rush of pleasure…it’s much the same feeling I used to experience when opening up a brand new box of Crayola Crayons. Oh my God, but that was awesome! All those beautiful colors lined up in perfect rows just waiting to be touched – in fact – I hesitated to touch them because once used, the crayons wouldn’t have the same appeal.
I’ve felt that kind of excited rush since then: In book stores; in shoe stores, at lipstick counters, in fabric shops. It’s a rush of pleasure from having all those choices, from seeing all those colors, from the knowing that I could, conceivably, choose any of them. I can’t read all the books that draw me in. I can’t buy all the shoes (alas!). All the lipstick shades don’t flatter me. My mother no longer sews for me, so there’s no use to get all those fabrics…
But nail polish! As long as I have my fingers and toes – I can adorn them with classic, flashy, innocent, crazy, or daring colors. I can try seasonal shades. I can do one color on my fingers and another on my toes. I can go from wearing white on my toes, to wearing raven. I can coordinate top and bottom. I can clash. Then I go bare for a few weeks to give the nails a rest: and then the cycle starts anew. It’s an achievable fantasy.
12
COLOR STORY What’s new in color for Autumn 2011? Let’s take a look at what textiles and women’s clothes will be featuring:
Textiles this season are going to
be evoking movement. There
will be fresh takes on stripes
and other graphics.
Irisdescence. Fluidity and
movement.
Powdery and rich shades.
Discreet luxury. Femininity.
Soft shimmer; feathery
textures. Some shine.
Metallics. Delicate
transparencies. Layering.
Exaggerated stitching.
13
COLOR STORY What’s new in color for Autumn 2011? Let’s take a look at what textiles and women’s clothes will be featuring:
A soft touch.
Handmade
looks. New
textures.
Vibrant colors.
Velvety to the
touch.
Mysterious
intensity. Inky
shades. Burnished
highlights. Drama
and intrigue. From
bright shines to
subtle sheens.
Sparkle. Laces.
Silky drape.
14
Mediterranean Inspiration
Just a few inspiring pictures—that speak a thousand
words—about Mediterranean color and spirit you can
easily bring into your life...Blue and white tiles,
terracotta, amphora, bright blue, mellow orange,
whitewash...Be inspired!