Olive Oil Standards Olive Oil Standards and Labelingand Labeling

•• StandardsStandards•• AdulterationAdulteration•• LabelingLabeling•• Quality Quality

AssuranceAssurance•• PricesPrices

Paul VossenPaul Vossen

Extra Virgin = Extra Virgin = Easy SchmeezyEasy SchmeezyDefects come from the extremesDefects come from the extremes

•• Severe olive fly damage with rotten fruitSevere olive fly damage with rotten fruit•• Frozen fruitFrozen fruit•• Severe fruit damage Severe fruit damage (harvest (harvest -- transport transport -- storage)storage)

•• Very dirty or contaminated or broken down Very dirty or contaminated or broken down processing equipmentprocessing equipment

•• Stored on sediments too longStored on sediments too long•• Stored too long until it goes rancidStored too long until it goes rancid

Very few California olive oils are not extra virgin

Extra Virgin is more expensiveExtra Virgin is more expensive•• CanCan’’t do it by neglect t do it by neglect –– no junk olivesno junk olives•• CanCan’’t harvest from the groundt harvest from the ground•• Need modern processing equipmentNeed modern processing equipment•• Requires North African and MidRequires North African and Mid--East East

modernization modernization

Bulk Oil Prices (Bulk Oil Prices (€€/ton /ton 33--2525--07)07)•• SpainSpain: Ex Virgin (Andalucia) 2,704

Ex Virgin (Catalonia DOP) 3,450Virgin 2,674 Refined 2,764

• Italy: Ex Virgin 3,450Refined 2,770 Pomace 1,441

•• Rotterdam:Rotterdam: Crude Canola 585 Crude Sunflower 717Peanut 1,180

Mercacei # 50 Feb-April 2007

What a BargainWhat a Bargain

REAL Olive oil is the most expensiveREAL Olive oil is the most expensive•• Slippery business article Slippery business article –– New YorkerNew Yorker•• Adulteration is and has been rampantAdulteration is and has been rampant•• Refined and Pomace mixesRefined and Pomace mixes

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SEED DIFFERENCES BETWEEN SEED OILS and OLIVE OILOILS and OLIVE OIL

Virgin Olive Oil• Mechanical separation of oil

from fruit-water and solids at 50o-85oF

• Natural antioxidants(Polyphenols)• No solvents

• Monounsaturated fat• Natural cis form

• Flavor

Seed Oil• Solvent extraction w/hexane

• Fractionally distilled• Expeller pressed - refined• Acidity neutralized w/soda • 340-500oF to remove color,

odor, & solvent residue• Artificial antioxidants

added (BHT) (BHA)Polyunsaturated fat

• Hydrogenated trans form• Bland –greasy

COMPARISON OF FATS AND OILSCOMPARISON OF FATS AND OILS

10 76 14

12 72 16

13 58 29

15 9 76

15 62 23

19 33 48

27 54 19

44 9 47

48 3 49

51 10 39

69 3 28

91 2 7

8 33 59

0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100%

Safflower

Sunflower

Corn

Olive

Soybean

Peanut

Cottonseed

Lard

Beef Tallow

Palm

Butter

Coconut

Canola

SATURATED POLYUNSATURATED MONOUNSATURATED

Genetically Engineered Genetically Engineered Soybeans and Rapeseed (canola)Soybeans and Rapeseed (canola)contain a high percentage of oleic contain a high percentage of oleic

fatty acidfatty acid

Olive oil from seeds?

EU History LessonEU History LessonEuropean Standards writtenEuropean Standards written::•• To remove adulterated oils from the market To remove adulterated oils from the market •• To remove To remove lampantalampanta oils from the marketoils from the market•• To allow for the sale of refined and pomace oilsTo allow for the sale of refined and pomace oils•• Price determines value (virgin)Price determines value (virgin)

NINE GRADES NINE GRADES 1.1. Extra Virgin Extra Virgin 2.2. VirginVirgin3.3. Ordinary Ordinary 4.4. Lampante (Lamp)Lampante (Lamp)5.5. RefinedRefined6.6. Olive OilOlive Oil7.7. Crude Pomace OilCrude Pomace Oil8.8. Refined Pomace OilRefined Pomace Oil9.9. Olive Pomace OilOlive Pomace Oil

VIRGINVIRGIN

REFINEDREFINED

Paul Vossen

Legal Standards EnforcementLegal Standards Enforcement

LaboratoryLaboratory

SensorySensory

Paul Vossen

OLIVE OIL STANDARDSOLIVE OIL STANDARDSExtra Virgin Olive OilExtra Virgin Olive Oil

• Less Than 0.8% Free Acidity• Less Than 20 ppm Peroxide Level• Made Mechanically• Taste Panel Rating of Zero Defects• Taste Panel Rating of Some Positive

Attributes

Paul Vossen

•• Sterol ContentSterol Content•• Tocopherols Tocopherols –– Polyphenols Polyphenols -- PigmentsPigments•• Fatty Acid ProfileFatty Acid Profile•• Saturated Fatty Acids in 2Saturated Fatty Acids in 2--positionposition•• Unsaponifiable MaterialUnsaponifiable Material•• Wax ContentWax Content•• StigmastadienesStigmastadienes•• Erythrodiol + UvaolErythrodiol + Uvaol•• Hydrocarbon ContentHydrocarbon Content•• Presence of Presence of transtrans fatty acidsfatty acids•• Color Color –– AspectAspect•• Free Acidity Free Acidity –– Peroxide ValuePeroxide Value•• UV Absorbency (bitterness & stability)UV Absorbency (bitterness & stability)•• Water and Insoluble ImpuritiesWater and Insoluble Impurities•• Flash PointFlash Point•• Metal Traces Metal Traces –– Halogenated SolventsHalogenated Solvents•• Sensory CharacteristicsSensory Characteristics

Paul Vossen

IOC IOC STANDARDSSTANDARDS

Australian National Show Australian National Show (Richard Gawel)(Richard Gawel)

1997 1998 1999 2000 2001

Entries

Total 30 40 35 38 52

FFA

Ave. Small Vol 0.45 - 0.20 0.20 0.20

Ave. Large Vol 0.40 - 0.24 0.26 0.25

Ave. Bulk n/a - 0.67 0.33 0.31

Overall Average 0.42 - 0.33 0.24 0.24

Tasting Results

Gold 13%# 5%# 3% 3% 4%

Silver 7% 8% 11% 11% 2%

Bronze 7% 8% 26% 18% 38%

Award Winners 27% 21% 40% 32% 44%

Disqualifications 23% 15% 23% 18% 14%

Free Fatty Acid LevelFree Fatty Acid Level•• Crude measure of qualityCrude measure of quality•• 0.8 is very high 0.8 is very high –– 0.5 is high0.5 is high•• In Australia In Australia –– oils with 0.1 oils with 0.1

to 0.2 received the most and to 0.2 received the most and highest medalshighest medals

•• In Australia In Australia –– oils above 0.3 oils above 0.3 received no medal or were received no medal or were disqualifieddisqualified

Fancy LaboratoriesFancy LaboratoriesHow much bad oil (2% FFA) can you mix with good oil How much bad oil (2% FFA) can you mix with good oil

(0.2% FFA) to meet the 0.5(0.2% FFA) to meet the 0.5--0.8% FFA standard?0.8% FFA standard?

Tasting 1st Oil (PPW)

Large Oil CompaniesLarge Oil Companies

Three Olive Oil ProductsThree Olive Oil ProductsBulk & Low cost Bulk & Low cost –– RefinedRefined• $5.99 to $9.99/bottle• $23-30 per gallon

Specialty Specialty –– PremiumPremium• $10 – 30 per bottle• $ 60-300 per gallon

Medium Priced Medium Priced Imports Imports –– Low to ? Low to ?

QualityQuality•$5 to $13.99/bottle•$30-50 per gallon

Paul Vossen

Common imported oils Common imported oils -- $6 to $10 per $6 to $10 per ½½ literliter

SUPERMARKET OILS

How can an Italianolive oil taste like

Picual?

Taste 2Taste 2ndnd Oil (GB5)Oil (GB5)

We Use EUROPEAN Standards We Use EUROPEAN Standards Because We DonBecause We Don’’t Know Any Bettert Know Any Better

European Standards are based on the European Standards are based on the MINIMUM (level of defects)MINIMUM (level of defects)

Status quo •• USDA & CDFA European Voluntary Standards USDA & CDFA European Voluntary Standards •• COOCCOOC European Voluntary StandardEuropean Voluntary Standard•• No Independent Taste PanelNo Independent Taste Panel•• No Marketing Order (Commission)No Marketing Order (Commission)•• No enforcement No enforcement

Paul Vossen

Cheap Cheap imports imports typically typically

have defects have defects #1 Defect = Rancid - old oils (not fresh)#2 Defect = Fusty - cheap oils - low cost producers

from ground harvested or poorly handled fruit#3 Defect = Heated Flavor - Mix of refined &

pomace oil up to IOC standard of non-detectable

Gold Gold medal medal

winner for winner for ““any other any other saucesauce”” in in

19961996

Problem: No US law enforces Problem: No US law enforces ““Extra VirginExtra Virgin”” StandardStandard

SSolutionsolutions•• DonDon’’t compete with a crooked industryt compete with a crooked industry•• Embarrass the cheaters Embarrass the cheaters •• Expose the fraud to the press Expose the fraud to the press •• Work with legislators & DAWork with legislators & DA’’ss•• Support producer and consumer rightsSupport producer and consumer rights•• Develop a whole new standardDevelop a whole new standard

Vocabulary of a LabelVocabulary of a Label•• Extra VirginExtra Virgin•• Pure Pure •• LightLight•• AcidityAcidity•• First Cold PressFirst Cold Press•• Harvest DateHarvest Date•• Bottled/Produced in ItalyBottled/Produced in Italy•• Seals and MedalsSeals and Medals

FRESH OLIVE OILFRESH OLIVE OIL

(extra virgin)(extra virgin)

Grown in Placer CountyGrown in Placer County25 acres of Olseninni Family Estate25 acres of Olseninni Family Estate

11234 Woebegone Rd, Loomis, CA 92100 (916) 555-6124 – www.fresholiveoil.com

•37% Picudo, 18% Bosana, & 45% Zaity

•Harvested December 10, 2008

•Processed December 11, 2008 at the Corti Mill in Sacramento (1569 Folsom Blvd.)

•Polyphenol Content: 1,234 ppm

•Free Fatty Acid: 0.12%

•Peroxide Level: 8.3 meqO2•Characteristic spicy flavor that is a balanced and complex blendof herbaceous grassy green and tropical ripe fruit flavors

Refined Olive OilRefined Olive OilProduced from the cheapest sources of oil from

anywhere in the world

The base of this oil is from rotten olives that have The base of this oil is from rotten olives that have fermented or gone rancid. This technical process fermented or gone rancid. This technical process

degums and neutralizes the oil with sodium degums and neutralizes the oil with sodium hydroxide forming soap, which is washed out. hydroxide forming soap, which is washed out.

Then we heat the oil to 500Then we heat the oil to 500ooF to volatilize off the F to volatilize off the bad odors, filter it to remove color, and then bad odors, filter it to remove color, and then

formulate it to meet the standards set forth by the formulate it to meet the standards set forth by the large industrial manufacturers. large industrial manufacturers. Contains:Contains: just just

enough oil from olives to meet that legal standardenough oil from olives to meet that legal standard.

This cheap source of refined old fat has the empty flavor of cooked or slightly rancid greasy oil

Pomace OilPomace OilProduced from olive waste – “second hot press”

This oil is made from the leftover solids (pomace), This oil is made from the leftover solids (pomace), that still contain some oil, after the fresh olive oil that still contain some oil, after the fresh olive oil

has been mechanically extracted. The dried has been mechanically extracted. The dried rotting waste pomace is then treated with hexane rotting waste pomace is then treated with hexane which dissolves anything soluble in the solvent, which dissolves anything soluble in the solvent,

including the oil. The solvents are then volatilized including the oil. The solvents are then volatilized off, some of which pollute the air. The oil is then off, some of which pollute the air. The oil is then refined by adding sodium hydroxide in a heating, refined by adding sodium hydroxide in a heating,

filtering process to produce a clear waxy oil. filtering process to produce a clear waxy oil.

This very cheap source of recovered waste oil has the cooked flavor of greasy solvents.

What is Good?What is Good?

What is Excellent?What is Excellent?

What is Better?What is Better?

FRESH FRESH –– ARTISAN ARTISAN –– SUPER SUPER PREMIUM PREMIUM –– GOURMET GOURMET ––BEYOND EXTRA VIRGINBEYOND EXTRA VIRGIN

USA MARKETUSA MARKETNew car New car –– new shoes new shoes –– good wine? good wine?

Which olive oil to buy?Which olive oil to buy?

Only practical way to distinguish is by flavor

Paul Vossen

CookCook’’s Illustrated Magazine Tasting s Illustrated Magazine Tasting

GOOD OILS:GOOD OILS:

••Too bitter & pungentToo bitter & pungent

••Too strongToo strong

BAD OILS:BAD OILS:

••Defect not recognizedDefect not recognized

••Familiar olive oil flavorFamiliar olive oil flavor

OPPOSITE RESULTSOPPOSITE RESULTS

““The Perfect Olive OilThe Perfect Olive Oil””•• FruitinessFruitiness - very high (10)•• BitternessBitterness - medium low (3-4)•• PungencyPungency - medium (4-6)•• ComplexComplex (many different flavors - both

green and ripe (10)•• KeepsKeeps a long time•• Great colorGreat color•• Intense aromaIntense aroma (10)•• Fresh Fresh –– Crisp Crisp –– Clean Clean

Balanced (10)Balanced (10)

How Do We Make the How Do We Make the Best Olive Oil Possible?Best Olive Oil Possible?

How do we Improve Oils?How do we Improve Oils?

Influences on FlavorInfluences on Flavor• Irrigation• Climate• Stress• Fruit Maturity• Fruit Handling• Processing• Oil Handling • Variety

UCCE Research Taste PanelUCCE Research Taste Panel•• 15 point profile sheet15 point profile sheet•• Cooperation with Cooperation with

international panelsinternational panels•• Intensity of aroma, Intensity of aroma,

bitterness, pungency, bitterness, pungency, fruit intensity, sweetness, fruit intensity, sweetness, total flavor, astringency, total flavor, astringency, defects, complexity, balance, finish, overall quality, and defects, complexity, balance, finish, overall quality, and positive flavor descriptors positive flavor descriptors

Grass, herb, mint, artichoke, buttery, floral, apple, citrus, tropical, green tea, tomato, banana, berry, etc .

UC Davis Centennial Blend Tasted 1-8-09

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15

Astringency Average

Sweetness Average

Pungency Average

Bitterness Average

Fruit Intensity Average

Total Flavor Intensity Average

Aroma Intensity Average

Complexity Average

Balance Average

Overall Quality Average

Intensity

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

Flav

or S

tren

gth

Ripe Olive

Fruit

Other R

ipe Frui

tNutt

yFlor

alButte

ry Tropic

alBana

naOthe

r

Green O

live Fruit

Grass (

fresh

Cut)

Articho

keHerb

aceo

usGree

n App

le

Green B

anan

aGree

n Tea Mint

Eucalyp

tusTom

ato Le

af

Spice "a

llspice

/cinn

amon"

Wood/ha

y/stra

wOthe

r

Specific Flavor Characteristics

Olive Oil Flavor Characteristics UC Davis Centennial Blend Tasted 1-8-09

Ripe FruitGreen Fruit

Condiment OilCondiment Oil• Olive oil is not just a FAT• Spice to Flavor Food

New World Imports New World Imports Good Quality - Good Price

AustraliaAustralia

ArgentinaArgentina

ChileChile

OLIVE OILS OLIVE OILS ON THE ON THE

MARKETMARKET

It should be easy to sell fresh It should be easy to sell fresh olive oil with no defectsolive oil with no defects

• Most cheap foreign oils are defective• California oils are really good• Health concerns• More knowledgeable consumers

CaliforniaCalifornia’’s Competitive Advantages Competitive AdvantageFlavorFlavor•• Oils that taste better Oils that taste better •• Based on location, variety, & handlingBased on location, variety, & handling

Taste 3Taste 3rdrd Oil (MA1)Oil (MA1)

The two biggestThe two biggest

Locally produced, fresh, Locally produced, fresh, great flavorgreat flavor

Distinguished by FlavorDistinguished by FlavorBasicsBasics

•• FreshnessFreshness•• No DefectsNo Defects•• FruitinessFruitiness•• BitternessBitterness•• PungencyPungency•• Delicate Delicate –– Medium Medium ––

Robust STYLERobust STYLE

Specific CharacterSpecific Character•• BalanceBalance•• ComplexityComplexity•• Green Green –– RipeRipe•• Grassy, Herbal, Nettle, Grassy, Herbal, Nettle,

Artichoke, Green Tea, Artichoke, Green Tea, Mint, Nutty, Floral, Mint, Nutty, Floral, Buttery, Tropical, etc.Buttery, Tropical, etc.

Tasting 4th Oil (ACV)

Quality is more than oilQuality is more than oil•• StandardsStandards•• BottleBottle•• LabelLabel•• ReputationReputation•• BrandBrand•• LocationLocation•• StyleStyle•• UseUse•• OrganicOrganic•• PricePrice

Olive Oil Positive CharacteristicsOlive Oil Positive Characteristics

Restaurant in Chile

Restaurant Individual ServingsRestaurant Individual Servings100 ml bottles $310/gallon100 ml bottles $310/gallon

Taste the 5Taste the 5thth oil (7KR) oil (7KR)

Taste the 6Taste the 6thth oil (oil (ZJGZJG) )