The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

transcript

Thisbookisdedicatedtomybeautifulfamily,withoutwhomtherewouldbenothing.

Contents

Fromthentoeternity

Essentialingredients

Toolsofthetrade

Biscuitssecs(Biscuits)

Gâteauxetdesserts(Cakesanddesserts)

Tartesettourtes(Tartsandpies)

Pâteàchoux(Chouxpastry)

Pâtefeuilletée(Puffpastry)

Croissants

Brioches

Pains(Breads)

Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes(Jams,compotes,spreadsand

creams)

Glossary

Frenchrecipelist

Acknowledgments

Fromthentoeternity

IttooksomeperspectiveformetofullyunderstandhowIbecameinvolvedinthefoodindustryandhowIdevelopedmypassionforbakingandpâtisserie.Certainly,itwasn’tuntilIhadmovedawayfromthecountrythatIwasbroughtupinthatIbegantorealisehowdeeplyfoodisentrenchedinFrenchcultureandhowitinfuseseveryaspectofone’slife.

Surprisingly,perhaps,myfamilywasneveroverlyenthusiasticaboutfood,unlikesomeofmyfriends’families.AsachildIdon’trecallmyparentsevercookingelaboratedishes,theyrarelydrankwineexceptonoccasionssuchasChristmasorperhapsabirthday,andwehardlyeveratebreadwithourfoodordrankcaféaulait—hardlythetypicalFrenchfamilyatall.Nowadays,however,thestoryisalittledifferent—mymotherhasdiscoveredherinnermasterchefandmyfathercanbeoftenfoundinthekitchenslicingtomatoesorforaginginthegardenforherbs.ButwhenmysisterandIweregrowingup,foodwasregardedalmostasanafterthought,anecessitymorethananythingelse.EventodaymyfatherlikestoremindmethatoneofthebiggestshocksofhislifewaswhenItoldhimIwasleavingschooltobecomeapastrychef.Althoughhehasalwaysbeensupportiveofmydecision,itwassuchanunexpectedannouncementthatIdon’tthinkhehaseverfullyrecovered!

Foodingeneral,andbakinginparticular,bringspeopletogether—it’spartofthegluethatbindssocieties.Althoughsharingamealorcelebratinganoccasionwithfamilyandfriendsisundoubtedlypartofthefabricofeveryculturetheworldover,inFrancefoodisregardedasoneofthemainpillarsoftheartdevivre(theartofliving),alongsidemusic,fineartsorphilosophy.

GastronomyinFrancehasimbuedeveryaspectofsociety;ithasbeenritualised,romanticised,politicisedandeveninstitutionalised,havingbeenlistedbyUNESCOasanIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity.Itisseennotasamerenecessityorasanaccompanimentforaspecialoccasion,butasanintegralpartofhowFrenchpeopledefinethemselves.IneveryFrenchcityandeveryvillageyouwillfindnotonlyashopthatspecialisesinfinepâtisseriesandconfectioneries,abakeryforyourbreadsandviennoiseriebutalsomostlikelyachocolateshop,aspecialisedconfectioneryboutique,atraiteur(delicatessen),afruitandvegetablemarket,acheeseshop…thelistgoeson.

ForaslongasIcanremember,Ihavealwayslikedsweetthings,notsomuchfortheirtastebutforwhattheyrepresented.Dessertsandsweetfoodwere,andstillare,intimatelylinkedwithnearlyeveryhappyoccasioninmylife:acandle-litcakeforabirthdaysurroundedbyallmyfriendsandfamily;abriochedesroisstuddedwithdriedfruitforChristmas;orsimplywakinguponaSaturdaymorningwiththesmellofcroissantsbakingintheovenandthesoundofanoldJimiHendrixrecordplaying,anddraggingmyselftotheterraceforbreakfastwithmymother,dadandsister.

Thesheersmellofsomecakesanddessertsalsotakesmebacktomykitchenathome,

standinguponawoodenstoolwhileIhelpedmymothermakeapoundcakeandthen,ofcourse,theinevitablefightwithmysisterastowhowasgoingtolickthebowlclean;orofsittinginmygrandmother’skitchen,listeningtoherstorieswhileshefriedherdeliciousbugnes.Thesearejustafewofthemanyhundredsofseeminglyinconsequentialmomentsthatmakeupachildhood,lyingdormantinthedeepestconfinesofone’smemory,readytobeunearthedinaninstantbyeventhesimplesttasteorsmell.

IrememberclearlywhenIfirstbegantounderstandtheincredibleemotivepoweroffood.EveryyearmymothertookmysisterandmetothebestpâtisserieinMarseille,tocelebrateStMichel’sday,ourpatronsaint.Onthisdayonly,wewereallowedtoeatasmanycakesandpastries,chocolatesandicecreamsaswewanted.Thisyearlytreatwassuchanexcitingtimeformeand,lookingbackonitnow,Icanseethatthiswasactuallywheremybakingjourneybegan.Oneyear,asweweresittingatasmalltabledrinkingoutoffancylittleteacups,surroundedbydazzlingdisplaysofcolourfulcakesandbiscuits,andknowingthatIcouldliterallyeatthewholeshopifIwantedto,IwaspromptedtoaskmymotherifIcouldspendmydaysoffschooldoingsomeworkexperienceinthekitchen.Mymothertalkedtothechefand,amazingly,theybothagreed,adecisionthatseemedsoinconsequentialatthetimebutwastochangemylifeforever.

By4amthefollowingWednesdayIwassittingnervouslyontheedgeofmybed,showeredanddressed,myheadspinningwithamixtureoffearandexcitement.Iwillneverforgetthatday.ItwasabitterlycoldmorningasmymotherandIsteppedinsidetheshopandwalkeddownthenarrow,dustywoodenstairs.Irememberthewarm,sweetsmellthatwafteduptogreetus,thensteppingintoakitchenfilledwithgiganticblocksofbutterandridiculouslylargebagsofflours,thetablescoveredwithtraysofshiny,translucentcandiedfruitsandjarsofgoldenhoney.Itwasatotalsensoryoverload—asensationthatissodeeplyingrainedinmymemorythateventodayIgetnervouseverytimeIwalkintoanewkitchen.

WhatIrecallmostaboutthosemorningswereallthoseburlychefshardatwork,liftingheavysacksofflourandcarryingback-breakingloadsofbutter,thenmovingseamlesslyintosubtleandprecisemovements,astheypipeddelicateornamentsoncakesorcarefullycutcroissantswiththeirenormousknives.Isoonrealisedhowmuchworkwasneeded,dayin,dayout,toproducetheseincrediblyintricateandtechnicalproducts,eatenwithoutsomuchasathoughtabouttheeffortittooktomakethem.AllthosebaguettesthatIateeveryday,thebrioches,lemontarts…somucheffortforseeminglysolittlerecognitionorfinancialreward.

WhatIbegantounderstand,overtime,wasthattherealrewardofworkingsohardtomakesomethingsocomplexlooksosimple,highlightsthefactthatbakingandcookingfulfilthosebasicneedsweallhave—theneedtocreate,contribute,shareandlove.Forme,thisencapsulatestheessenceofbaking:usingyourownhandstomakesomethingoutofsimple,honestingredients,somethingpreparednotforsustenanceorfinancialgain,but

purelyforthepurposeofbringingwarmthandhappiness,howeversmall,toanotherperson’slife.

TherecipesthatIhavechosentoincludeinthisbookholdalotofmeaningforme.Somearemoretraditionalthanothers,somearesimpleandothersabitmoreintricate,butallofthemareachievableinyourownkitchen.Beingagoodbakersometimesrequiresabasicunderstandingofchemistry,soIhavetriedtoprovideyouwithallthetechnicalinformationyoumightneedaswell,notonlytohelpyoutomaketheserecipesbutalsotogiveyoutheconfidencetoexperimentandcreateandtomotivateyoutofurtheryourjourneyintotheamazingandrewardingworldofbaking.Itrulyhopethatthisbookwillinspireyoutogivebakingachance.Everyonerelatestofoodbasedontheirownexperiencesbut,forme,ofallthetastesonlysweetcrossesthecultural,genderorgenerationalgapbyreachingdirectlyintoourdeepestchildhoodmemories,sothateventhesimplestofcakesordessertsmadeusingthesmallestamountofskillwillalwaysbereceivedasthegrandestofgestures.

JeanMichelRaynaud

Essentialingredients

Bakingisasmuchaboutscienceasitiscreativity.Assuch,thisbookisdesignedtoequipyouwithstrongbakingfoundationsuponwhichyoushouldfeelfreetoaddyourowncreativeorpersonalstamp—thisis,afterall,howmosttraditionalrecipescameabouttobeginwith.I’vetriednottoconfuseyouwithtoomanytechnicaltermsorguidelines,asthisbookisn’tmeanttoturnyouintoaprofessionalpâtissierbutrathertogiveyouthebasictoolstosuccessfullybakedeliciouscakesandpastriesathome.

Thefollowingtwosectionscovermostoftheessentialingredientsandtoolsyou’llneedasabaker,butitcertainlydoesn’tendhere.TherearelimitlessresourcesatyourfingertipsandI’dencourageyoutoreadfurther,especiallyonsubjectssuchasbakingbreadandworkingwithchocolate,tofurtherhoneyourcookingskills.AsanapprenticeIwastoldthatyoucanget80percentofthequalitywith20percentoftheskills,butyouwillneedtheother80percentoftheskillstoachievetheremaining20percentofthequality!

F lour

Whilemostgrainscanbegroundintoatypeofflour,inthisbookplain(all-purpose)flouralwaysreferstowheatflour.

Flourismostlygradedfollowingthreecriteria:theamountofmineralorash(whichismademostlyofbran),theprotein(gluten)contentandthehumiditylevel,allofwhichvaryaccordingtothetypeofwheatandhowitisprocessed.Systemsforgradingflourvarywildlyacrosstheglobe,rangingfromthedifferentnumericalclassificationsemployedinFrance,ItalyandGermany,whichrelatestotheamountofbranintheflour(seebelow),tothoseusedintheUnitedKingdom,AmericaandAustralia,whereflourtendstobegradedusingwordstodescribetheamountofprotein(gluten)orthebestapplicationfortheflour(‘breadflour’or‘cakeflour’,forexample).

Brancontent:Thisisoftenclassifiedusingnumbers,withlargernumbersindicatingahigherbrancontent:

‘00’flourinItalyandT45inFrance;

‘0’flourinItalyandT55inFrance;

‘1’flourinItalyandT65andaboveinFrance.

WhichflourshouldIuse?

Mostoftherecipesinthisbookwillworkwellwithagenerictypeofplain(all-purpose)flour,howeverIdorecommendyoutrytofindafloursuitedformakingbread.Forbestresults,agood

ruleofthumbtofollowwhenchoosingwhichflourtouseisasfollows:

LForallcakebattersandshortdoughs,it’spreferabletouseaveryrefined,low-bran,low-proteinplain(all-purpose)flour.Whileyouneedsomeglutenfor‘short’mixessuchasshortbreadandspongestoprovidestructure,toomuchglutenwillhaveadetrimentaleffectontheirtexturebymakingthemtougherandlesspalatable.Thisflourissoldundermanylabels:pastryorcakeflour,orsoftflour.

LForallyeastedpastryandbreads,useaplain(all-purpose)flour,preferablywithahighglutencontent.Glutenisacriticalingredientinthemanufactureofyeastedpastryandbreadsasitgivesthedoughitsstrengthandelasticity(corps),whichtrapstheairandcarbondioxide(CO2)createdbytheyeastsduringtheprovingprocess.Thisistypicallysoldasstrong,baker’sorbreadflour.

LForsourdoughbread,Irecommendusingaless-refined,preferablyorganicplain(all-purpose)flourwithahighglutencontent.Ahigherbrancontentisimportantwhenbakingsourdoughbecausethehighermineralcontenthelpsthenaturalyeasttodevelopfaster,improvingboththetextureandtasteofthebread.Thistypeofflourisbestsourcedfromhealthfoodstoresor,evenbetter,fromartisanalbakeries,whowillusuallybehappytosellyouasmallquantityofflour.Thisflourisalsosoldashardorstrongflour,baker’sorbreadflour.

Maizecornflour

Maizecornflour(cornstarch),alsoknownasmaizena,maizeflourandmaizestarch,ismadebygrindingcornkernelsandthenseparatingtheflourfromitsproteinsandallothercomponents.Itisaveryfine,tastelesspowderanddoesnotcontaingluten.Itisusedtothickensaucesandasareplacementforsomeoftheplainflourinshortbreaddough,toreducetheglutencontent,thuskeepingthedoughcrumblyandshort.Youcanfindmaizecornflourinmajorsupermarkets,healthfoodstoresorspecialistfoodstores.

Wheatencornflour

To confuse the issue, some brands of cornflour (cornstarch) sold insupermarkets inAustraliaareactuallymadefromwheat,notcorn(checkthelabelcarefully).Personally,IseenoreasonwhyyoushouldusethistypeandIalwaysrecommendthatyouusetruemaizecornflourmadefrommaize(corn).Whilewheatencornflourlooksverysimilartomaizecornflour,therearetwodistinctdifferences:

LFirstly,aswheatencornflourisgroundfromwheatandcontainsgluten,itwilladdacertainamountofelasticitytoyoursaucesandcustards.Itcan’tbeusedasafloursubstituteinshortcrustdoughs.

LSecondly,asathickener,wheatstarchabsorbslesswaterthancornflour,soyouwillneedtoadjusttherecipebyaddingalittlelessliquidoralittlemorewheatstarch.

Yeastisanaturallivingorganismthatmetabolisesstarchsugarsintocarbondioxidegasandethanolduringtheprovingstagesofdough-making.Thedoughrisesthankstotheproliferationofcarbondioxidebubbles,whicharetrappedinthedoughbythegluten,andistheunderlyingreasonbehindusingflourwithahighprotein(gluten)contentforbakingbreadsandleavenedpastries.

Freshyeast Freshcompressedyeastispackagedasablockofsoft,moistlivingyeastcells.Itis the preferred ingredient used by professional bakers for its leaveningcapacity, but has a short life-span, making it rather wasteful for the homebaker.Asaruleofthumb,toconvertfreshyeasttoinstantdryyeast,usehalftheamount.Forexample,14g(½oz)freshyeastequals7g(¼oz)instantdryyeast.

Instantdriedyeast

Thisprocessedyeast isoriginallymade from the same livingculture as freshyeast, but has been dried and transformed into small granules that can beadded directly to your dough, verymuch as youwould fresh yeast. It has amuchlongerlife-spanthanfreshyeast,soisperfectforthehomebaker.Alltherecipesinthisbookuseinstantdriedyeastforthisreason.

Bicarbonateofsodaandbakingpowder

Theseleavening(rising)agentsreleasegasesmuchfasterthanconventionalyeastsanddonotrelyasmuchasyeastsdoontheelasticityofthemixescreatedbytheproteinintheflour.Consequently,theyarereallyusefulwhenbakinggoodssuchassponges,poundcakesorevencertaintypesofshortbreadswhenthetasteoffreshyeastisundesirableandtheglutencontentislow.

Bicarbonateofsoda

Bicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)isapotentleaveningagentthatcreatesrapidcarbon dioxide bubbles when exposed to an acid, such as chocolate, brownsugarorlemon.Awordofadvice:thisshouldbeusedinverysmallquantitiesand always measure it carefully. Too much will give a soapy taste to yourproducts.

Baking This is primarily bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) that has already beenmixed with an acid, usually cream of tartar and cut with cornflour

powder (cornstarch).Itcanbeaddedtowetmixesthathavelittleornootheracidsandstill produce carbon dioxide. Due to the fact that the active ingredient(bicarbonate of soda) has been diluted, the ratio of baking powder used inbakingisalwayshigherthanbicarbonateofsoda.

Bothsugarbeetandsugarcaneproduceidenticalcomplexsugars(sucrose),composedoftwosimplesugars:dextrose,commonlycalledglucose;andfructose,themainingredientininvertsugar(trimoline).Boththeseingredientsareusedinprofessionalbaking.Technicallyspeaking,theyarehygroscopic(theyabsorbmoisturefromtheair),whichhelpsslowdownthecrystallisationofsugarsincreamsandcaramelsandprolongsthesoftnessofspongesandcakes.Thetypesofsugarmostcommonlyusedinthisbookinclude:

Castersugar Refinedfrombothsugarcaneandsugarbeet,caster(superfine)sugarishighlyprocessed pure sucrose and comes in the form of fine, clear crystals thatdissolveeasilyinliquid.Thismakesitpreferabletocoarserregularwhitesugarforbaking,especiallywhenmakingmeringue.

Rawsugar Raw(demerara)sugarisalessrefinedformofsugarextractedfromsugarcane.It isminimallyprocessedand still contains someof itsmolasses (around3.5percent),whichgivesitamorecomplexflavourandalightbrowncolour.Asthe crystals are relatively large, raw sugardoesn’tdissolve as readily as caster(superfine)sugar,soitisusedmainlytoadddepthofflavourandalittleextratexturetobiscuitsandcrumbles.

Brownsugar Brownsugar ismuch less refined thanbothcaster (superfine) sugarandraw(demerara)sugar.Theheavytextureandbrowncolourisduetoitsveryhighmolassescontent(around10percent).I’mnotabigfanofthistypeofsugarbecauseitsstrongflavourtendstoeasilyovershadowotherflavours.

Pureicingsugar

Pureicing(confectioners’)sugarisaveryfinewhitepowderedsugarmadeof100percentsucrose;itissimplytheresultoffinelycrushingcaster(superfine)sugar.Mostoften,youwill comeacross icing (confectioners’) sugarmixture,whichisessentiallythesameproductbuthasasmallamountofstarchaddedtopreventthesugarfromabsorbinghumidityfromtheairandforminghardlumps.Iprefertousepureicingsugaroverthemixtureandjustpassitthrougha finemesh sieve to remove any lumps. You can alsowhizz it up in a foodprocessorbeforeusingit.

Pearl sugar (also calledhail sugar or nibbed sugar) is oftenused to decorate

Pearlsugar andtoaddcrunchandsweetnesstobiscuitsandpastries,suchaschouquettes.Thishighly refined formof sugar is compacted and then crushed into smallballs,whichcanwithstandhighheatwithoutmelting.

Apinchofsaltgoesalongwayincookingandiscriticalfordevelopingflavour,balanceandstability.Bakingisnoexception.Thereisamultitudeofdifferentsaltsonthemarketthesedays,rangingincolourfrompinktogrey,andinpricefromthecheapesttablesalttohigh-end‘gourmet’salts.Sowhatsaltshouldyouuseandwhen?

Seasaltorrocksalt ?

Let’sputthistorestonceandforall.Saltisamineralcalledsodiumchloride.Irrespectiveofwhetherithasbeenharvesteddirectlyfromtheseaordissolvedfromrocksedimentscreatedoverhundredsofmillionsofyearsago,sodiumchlorideremainssodiumchloride.Inbothcases,itwouldhavecomefromtheseaatonetimeoranother.Thereis,however,averydistinctdifferenceinhowthesaltisprocessed,resultinginseveraltypesofsaltcrystals,eachusedfordifferentpurposes.

Cookingsalts

Finesalt Fine salt (table salt) is made of very small, cubic crystals created by rapidvacuumevaporationofthebrinefromrocksaltorseawater.Unlikesaltflakes,these crystals of salt are tightly packed together and are hard to melt andcannotbeusedastexturalelements,asthistypeofsaltalwaystastestoo‘salty’.Finetablesalt,however,isperfectforuseindoughs,creams,saucesandstocks,ortodrymeatandpicklevegetables.

Finishingsalts

Saltflakes Saltflakesarecreatedbygentleevaporationofthebrine.Unlikefinetablesalt,they aremadeof largerpyramid-like flakes thatmelt easily, so are ideal as acondiment,orsprinkledoncaramels,chocolateorcandiedfruits.Duetothelarger sizeof their crystals and their ability todissolvequickly in themouth,saltflakesprovidealesssaltytastethanfinesalt.

OriginatingfromGuérande,onthewestcoastofFrance,thisisconsideredthe

Fleurdesel RollsRoyceofsalts.This typeofsalt ismadeof largecrystalsand is ideal foraddingbothtextureandasubtlehintofsaltinesstoyourcaramelsorfruit.Thesaltcrystalsonlyformunderspecificclimaticconditionsandareharvestedbyhand, making it a labour-intensive, finite resource and, as such, is quiteexpensive.

Butter

OneofthefundamentalingredientsinFrenchcookery,butterisespeciallyimportantinpâtisserieandbaking.Likemanythings,notallbutteriscreatedequalandvariessignificantlyinbothqualityandtaste,andthereforeprice.Hereareafewimportantthingstoconsiderwhenbuyingbutterforbaking.

Saltornosalt ?

Historically,saltwasaddedtobutterasapreservativebeforetheadventofrefrigeration.Todayitismainlyusedinsavourycooking,forthemanufactureofacidiccreamssuchasahollandaiseorbeurreblanc,ortospreadontoasttoaddanotherlayeroftaste.Inbaking,however,alotofrecipesdonotrequiresalt,soitisfarbettertoaddsalttorecipesthatneedseasoningratherthanusingsaltedbutter.

Howmuchfatistoomuchfat ?

Believeitornot,thereissuchathinginFrenchbakingastoomuchofagoodthing!Todaybuttersfromaroundtheworldcontainbetween80and85percentfat.Typically,Europeanbuttercontainsaslightlyhigherfatcontent(hencelesswater)andisbettersuitedforuseinflakypastriessuchascroissantandpuff.Butterwithalowerfatcontent(andthereforehigherwatercontent),suchasthosefoundinNewZealand,AustraliaandAmerica,emulsifybettersoaremoresuitablethanEuropeanbutterswhenmakingemulsifiedbasessuchascurds,ganachesandcreamedcakebatters.

Culturedornotcultured?

Culturedbutterwastraditionallymadefromfermentedrawcream,buttodayitisusuallymadebyaddingacultureandlacticacidtothepasteurisedcreambeforethechurningprocess,thenlettingthebutterageinstorage.Thisprocessprovidesanaddeddepthofflavourcomparedtoregularbutterandhasamoreyeastyor‘buttery’flavour.It’sidealforbalancingthetartnessorbitternessofcreamssuchassaltedcaramel,lemoncurds,organachesmadewithahighcocoacontent.Foranyothercreams,especiallythosemadewithsubtleflavoursorsweeterchocolatesuchasmilkorwhite

chocolate,Irecommendyouuseastandard,off-the-shelfunsaltedbutter.

Buttermilkfatislessdensethanbuttermilk,soitrisestothetopofthemilkandformsathicklayer,whichisskimmedoffbeforethemilkishomogenised.Thedifferenttypesofcreamrefertotheamountofbutterfattheycontainand,asageneralguide,theyarebrokenintothreegroups.

Typesofcream

Lightcream Alsoknownassinglecreamorpouringcream,thiscontains18–25percentfat.Personally,Ineverusethiscream.Itistoothintouseonfruitorforpouringdirectlyonatartordessert,anddoesnotcontainenoughfattocontributetothetextureandfeelofanybakedgoods.

Whippingcream

This cream contains 35 per cent fat. It is themost common cream used inbaking,andistheonlycreamIeveruseincooking.Ithastheperfectratiooffatto liquid and adds a wonderful creaminess to your ganache, curds or cakebatters.ItistheonlycreamyoucanusetowhipintoasmoothandfluffycrèmeChantilly.Confusingly, some35percent fatcreamscontaingelatineandarelabelled‘thickenedcream’,somakesureyoucheckthelabel.

Thickcream Alsoknownasdoublecream,heavyorthickdollop,thistypecontains48percentfatandover.Whilesomebakersoccasionallyusethiscream,Ionlyeveruse it as a servingaccompaniment. Ioftenadda small amountof alcohol tomitigate its richness; for example, a small amountofCalvadosmixedwith agenerousdollopofthickcream,toserveonawarmtartetatin.

However,thissystemofcategorisingcreamsisoftenconfusingforthecookbecausethefatcontentvariesfromcountrytocountryandevenfrombrandtobrand.Thebestwaytochoosetherightcreamforyourneedsistogobythefatcontentonthelabelandnotbythetypeofcreamlistedonthelabel.

Ialwayschoosefree-rangeeggsovercagedeggsforobviousreasons,butsurprisinglyenough,whenitcomestobaking,therearenonoticeabledifferencesbetweenthetwo.Thetypeofeggyouchooseisentirelyuptoyou,andwillbeadecisionbasedmoreoneconomicalandethicalreasonsthananythingelse.

Whileeggscomeinavarietyofsizes,rangingfrommedium(40–50g/1½–1¾oz),large(50–60g/

1¾–2¼oz)toextra-large(60–70g/2¼–2½oz),withsomeweighingalmost80g(2¾oz),alltheeggsusedinthisbookare55g(2oz),whichisabakingindustrystandardsize.

Hereareafewusefultips:

LWhenbakingwithsmallquantitiesofeggs,breaktheeggsintoabowlandwhiskthemlightlywithaforksothatyouendupwithanevendistributionofeggyolkandwhite.

LWhenmakingmeringue,alwaysmakesureyourbowlisspotlesslycleanbeforeaddingthewhites—useapieceofpapertowelmoistenedwithalittlevinegartowipethebowlclean—andmakesureyourwhitesdonotcontainanytracesofeggyolk.Eggyolkcontainsabout60percentfatandwillpreventyoureggwhitesfromwhiskingtotheirfullestpotential.

LUseeggsatroomtemperature.Thisisveryimportantwhenmakingmeringuebecausecoldeggwhitesarelesselastic,andsoarelessabletoretainair.Inrecipesusingwholeeggs,thewarmthoftheairtemperaturesoftensthefatintheyolkandmakesiteasiertoemulsifywithotherliquids.

LSometimesarecipewillcallforanexactweightofeggwhitesratherthananumber,soyouwillneedtoseparatetheeggsintoabowlandweighthem.Asaguide,a55g(2oz)eggcanbebrokendownintothreeparts:30g(1oz)forthewhite,20g(¾oz)fortheyolkand5g(1/8oz)fortheshell.

Eggwash

Usedtoaddcolourandshinetopastriesandbreads,mosteggwashesaresimplymadeoflightlywhiskedeggsandapinchofsalt.Sometimesadashofmilk,creamorwaterisaddedtothintheeggwash.Thereareafewkeyfactorsthatwilldeterminehowfastanddeepthecolourdevelops.

Theratioofalbumen(eggwhite)toeggyolk:Whileboththeeggwhiteandyolkcontainproteinsthatbrownduringbaking,itisthefatintheyolkthatcontributesmosttoashinieranddarkerfinish.

Thesugarcontentofthebatterordough:Therearetwobrowningreactionsthathappenduringbaking:caramelisation(browningofthesugar,orsucrose,inthebatter)andtheMaillardreaction(thebrowningoftheproteinsandcarbohydrates).Putsimply,themoresugarinyourpastry,themoreitisgoingtocolourduringbaking.

Oventemperature:Ifyourovenistoohot,thetopwillbrownbeforethedoughinsideiscooked,socolourationisnotalwaysareliablesignthatyourpastriesandbreadsaredone.

Hereareafewtipstohelpyoudecidewhattypeofeggwashtouse:

LWhenbakingpastriesorbreadsthathaveahighsugarcontent,suchasshortbreadandbrioche,makeaneggwashusingwholeeggsandapinchofsalt.Thispreventsthetopfrombrowningtooquicklyandtoomuchbeforethedoughiscookedthrough.

LWhenbakingdoughsthathavealowsugarcontent,suchaspuffpastryorpâtebrisée,addmoreyolkstotheeggwashtoachievegoodcolourinthetimeittakesthepastrytocook.

Chocolate

Mostofthechocolateweeattodaycomesfromthreetypesofcocoabean(orcacaobean)—Forastero,CriolloandTrinitario—whichallvaryimmenselyinrichness,flavourandtaste,aswellasyieldandavailability.Forasteroisthemostwidelyavailable;ithasablanderflavourandacheaperprice.Criollohasaverystrongtasteandistherarestandthereforethemostexpensivecocoabean.Trinitario,ahybridcrop,hasamorerefinedflavourandispreferredbysmaller,morespecialisedchocolatemanufacturers.

Thechocolatemanufacturingprocesses

Beforeendingupastheproductwelovesomuch,cocoabeansmustundertakealengthyseriesofprocesses,allcriticaltothefinishedflavourandtextureofthechocolate.

Fermentation:Thefruitsareharvested,thensplittoremovethebeansandpulp,whicharethenlefttofermentnaturallyoverseveraldays.Thisprocessiscriticalforthebeantodevelopitskeyflavoursandnuancesandreducesitsinherentbitterness.

Dryingandroasting:Thefermentedbeansandpulparethenseparatedandthebeansaredriedtopreventmouldgrowth.Thebeansareroastedtorefinetheflavoursandfurtherreducetheacidity.

Grindingandconching:Oncethebeanshavebeenroasted,thenibsareseparatedfromthehusks,groundandliquefiedintoathickpastecalledcocoamassorliquor.Thispasteisthenfurtherrefinedintotwocomponents:cocoabutter(theflavourcarrier)andcocoasolids(theflavour).Atthisstage,cocoabutter,cocoasolids,sugarandasmallamountsoylecithinaremixedinvariousratios,dependingonthemanufacturer’spreference,tomanufacturedarkchocolate.Milksolidsareaddedtomakemilkchocolate.Theseingredientsarethenputthroughaprocesscalledconching,wheretheyaregroundtogether,sometimesoverdays,tofurtherrefinethetextureandflavourofthefinalproduct.

Tempering:Thisprocessinvolvesheatingandthencoolingthechocolate,toavoidtheformationoflarge,irregularfatcrystals,typicallyexemplifiedbyawhite,mould-likecoatingandgrainytexture.

Typesofchocolate

Darkchocolate

Most chocolate sold today has a percentage reference clearly printed on thepackaging,typicallyrangingfrom55–80percent.Thispercentagereferstotheamountofcocoa(orcocoamass)thechocolatecontains.Forexample,a60percentchocolatewillbemadeof60percentcocoamasswiththeremaining40percentrepresentingthesugarcontentandasmallamountofemulsifyingsoylecithin.Consequently, the flavourof the chocolatewillbecome increasinglypronouncedwiththeincreaseinpercentage(andtheconsequentreductioninsweetness).

Milkchocolate

This is made by adding milk solids (milk powder) to a conventional darkchocolate.Theycomeinavarietyofpercentages,somesweeterthanothers.Ialwaysrecommendusingahighpercentagecocoacontent,around40–45percent,which,bydefinition,contains lesssugarandconsequentlyretainsmoreoftheoriginalcocoacharacteristics.

Whitechocolate

Theelephantintheroom,whitechocolatedoesnotcontainanycocoasolids.It is a concoction of milk solids (milk powder), cocoa butter and sugar. Itshouldbeusedsparinglyasittendstobeoverlysweet(itcontainsupto60percentsugar)andcanquicklyoverpowerothersubtleflavours.

Cocoapowder

This is made by extracting cocoa butter from the cocoa mass by hydraulicpressing.Itisthenpulverisedintoapowder.Initspureform,cocoapowderisunsweetened and bitter and this is the cocoa I use in allmy recipes. Dutchcocoa is unsweetened cocoa that has been treated to neutralise its inherentacidity.However,becauseyou sometimesneed theacid in the cocoa tohelpactivatebicarbonateofsodaandgivealifttocakesandbiscuits,Iprefertouseregular cocoa powder. Sweetened cocoa powder is typically used for hotchocolateandistoosweettocookwith.

WhichchocolateshouldIchoose?

Asacook,it’seasytofallintothetrapofbuyinghighpercentagechocolatebecauseitisperceivedasbeingbetter—butit’sallaboutbalance.Thetypeofchocolateyouusewillhaveacriticalimpactonhowyourcreamsemulsifyandset.Usingachocolatewithahighercocoapercentagethanrecommendedintherecipewillhardenyourcreamstoomuchandmostlikelydestabilise(split)theemulsionduetotheincreaseincocoafat.Conversely,usingachocolatewithalowerratioofcocoathanrecommendedwillgiveyouasofterfinishedproduct.

Theamountofsugarthechocolatecontainsisanotherkeyconsideration,asit’simportanttofindtherightbalanceofsweetnessandflavour.Forexample,ifyou’recookingwithchocolatethatcontainsahighpercentagecocoa(andthuslowinsugar),youwillneedtoneutralisetheinherent

bitternesswithatouchofchilli,strongspices,saltorpepper.Asweetchocolate,ontheotherhand,willbenefitfromtheadditionofatartoracidictastesuchaslime,pineappleorGreekyoghurt.

Toolsofthetrade

Peoplehavebeenbakingforthousandsofyearswithlittlemorethanapot,acuttingdeviceandsomefire.Whileit’stemptingtobuylotsofbeautifulbitsandpieces,manyoftheseendupinthebottomofadrawergatheringdust,orbreakeasilyandendupinthebin.Ratherthanbuyinglotsofequipment,Ithinkit’smuchbettertoinvestinafewbasicgood-qualitypieces.Toachievegoodresultsyoudon’tnecessarilyneedallthebellsandwhistles,andyoucanalwaysimprovise—asimplebottlemakesaperfectrollingpinandapairofhandscankneadbreaddoughtoperfection.

Thereareseveraldifferenttypesofovensavailable,butIwillfocusontheonesyouarelikelytouseinadomestickitchen.

Convection(fan-forced)ovens

Thisisthemostcommondomesticovenandalltherecipesinthisbookusethistype.Convectionovensworkbyrotatingtheambientheatgeneratedbytheheatingelement,ensuringabetterheatdistribution.Italsoincreasestheoveralloventemperatureintheovencomparedtoastatic(non-fan-forced)oven.

Staticovens

Theseovensuseradiantheatviaelementssituatedinsidethecookingchamberandrelyuponnaturalconvectiontodistributetheheat.Assuch,theyaremorelikelytohaveanirregularcookingpatternandarepronetohotspots(seetips).Whenusingastaticoven,increasetherecommendedtemperaturefortherecipesinthisbookby10°C(18°F).

Refractoryovens

Mostoftenpoweredbywood-fireorelectricity,theseovensworkbyambientheat,wheretheheatingelementwarmsathicklayerofbricksorbakingstonessituatedonthebottomoftheoven.Theheatisthenrefractedfromthetopbyanotherlayerofbricksorstone.Personally,Ithinkthisistheonlytypeofovensuitableforbakingsourdoughbreadsandbecausemosthomecooksdon’thaveaccesstothistypeofoven,Ididnotincludeanyrecipesforsourdoughbreadinthisbook.If,however,you’reluckyenoughtohaveabackyardwood-firedoven,allofthebreadrecipesinthisbookwillcookperfectlyinit.

Importanttips:

Coolit:Keepinmindthattheoveninyourkitchenisafractionofthesizeweuseincommercialbakingand,assuch,theheatingelementwillbeclosertoyourgoods.WhileIhavetriedtoadjusttherecommendedcookingtemperaturestoaccommodatethis,yourovenwillalmostalwaysbehotterthanwhatthedialindicates.Tobesafe,beginbakingat10°C(18°F)lessthanrecommended;youwillhavefewerproblemscookingwithaslightlycooleroventhanahotterone.

Nevercookwithradiantheat…insulate:Wehaveallexperiencedthisbefore:whenyousitinfrontofaradiantheateryousoonstarttofry,buttakeonestepawayandyoufreeze—suchisthewonderofradiantheat!Likewise,iftheheatingelementinsideyourovenisvisible,youwillneedtoinsulateittodispersetheheat.Todothis,placeabakingtraybetweentheelementandyourgoodsduringbaking.Thiswillhelpdissipatetheradiantheat,makingitmoreregularand‘softer’.

Hotspots:Mostovens,fromthedomestickitchentothelargestfactoryoven,willhavehotspots.Theseareareaswheretheheatismoreprominentthanothers.Inordertoworkoutwherethatisandfixit,heatyouroventoitsmaximumtemperature,sprinkleanevenlayerofflouroveryourbakingtray,thenplacethetrayinthemiddleoftheoven.Closethedoorandwaitfortheflourtobrown—watchingverycarefullytomakesurethatitdoesn’tcatchalight.Ifyounoticethatsomeareasaredarkerthanothers,simplycuta20cm(8in)squareoffoil,folditintoquarters,thenplaceitonyourinsulatingtray(theonebetweentheheatingelementandyourbakedgoods)onthespotwheretheflourbrownedthemost.

Youwillfindthatunlessyoubakeinarefractoryoven,thebottomofyourpastriesarealmostalwaysgoingtobecookedlessthantheyareonthetop,soIrecommendusingthethinnestbakingtrayyoucanfind.

Thermometers

Irecommendedadigitalprobethermometerscaledto200°C(400°F),asitallowsyoutogetaninstant,easyandaccuratereading.Thisisespeciallyusefulwhendoingsugarworkandtemperingchocolate,andalsoforcheckingtheinternaltemperatureofcakes,creams,meatandfish.Traditionalleadthermometersarefine,althoughtheyareinfinitelymorefragileandcanbedifficulttoread.

Kitchenscales

‘Whatisheavier,akiloofleadorakilooffeathers?’

Themostcriticalpieceofequipmentforabakerorpastrychefisanaccuratedigitalscale.Unlikeotherareasofcooking,whereyoucanaddasplashofthisandahandfulofthatandendupwithsomethingdelicious,thesuccessofbakingreliesentirelyonfollowingtherecipecarefullyandpreciselymeasuringeachingredient.

Fordecades,professionalshaveavoidedthevolumetricsystem(cups)tomeasureingredients,notonlyforthesakeofaccuracy,butmainlytosimplifyproduction.Eachingredienthasitsownspecificdensity.Forinstance,acupofwaterdoesn’tweighthesameasacupofoil,andsimilarlyflourislighterthansugar,butakilogramofanythingwillalwaysweighakilogram,irrespectiveofhowmuchvolumethereis.Assuch,whatmattersistheweightofingredientsinyourrecipe,neverthevolume.

Irecommendagooddigitalscalethatweighstothesinglegramasopposedtothosethatweighin5g(1/8oz)increments.Thiswillmakeallthedifferencewhenitcomestomeasuringoutsmallquantitiesofingredientssuchasyeast,bakingpowderandsalt.Youdon’thavetospendasmallfortuneeither,asmostdigitalscalesarequiteaffordable.

Agoldenruletofollow:

Irecommendthatyouhaveallyouringredientsreadyandweighedbeforeyoustartbaking.Thisisimportantfortworeasons.Firstly,someingredientsreactwithanother;forinstance,ifyoupoursugaroneggyolkswithoutstirringimmediately,thesugarwillabsorbwaterfromtheyolkandcreateaproteinlump(thisiscalled‘burningtheeggs’).Secondly,ifyouringredientsarenotweighedbeforeyoubegin,youmightfindyourselfburningatoffeewhileweighingoutyourcream,oroverwhippingyoureggwhiteswhilemeasuringyoursugarwhenmakingmeringue.

Electricmixers

Whileitwillbeoneofthemostexpensivepiecesofequipmentinyourkitchen,agoodstandmixerwithastrongmotorwilllastyoualifetimeandwillsaveyoualotoftimeandeffort.Whenchoosingamixer,sticktothebasics:allyouneedarethethreeattachments(whisk,paddleandhook)andvariablespeedbuttons.Ifyoudon’thaveadoughhookoryouthinkthemotorisn’tquiteuptothechallengeofworkingabreaddough,kneadthedoughbyhand,theold-fashionedway.

Foodprocessors

Foodprocessorsarenotexactlyessentialforbaking,butwillcertainlymakeyourlifealoteasier.They’regreatforemulsifyingcreamsandcustards,crushingnuts,slicingfruitsandvegetablesorevenmixingsmallamountsofdough,suchasshortbread.Mypersonalrecommendationistolookforaprocessorwithdoubleblades.They’realotmoreefficient,provideamoreconsistentfinishandgeneratealotlessfrictionandthereforeheat,whichisespeciallyimportantwhencrushingnuts,astoomuchheatwillturnthemintoapaste.

Immersionorstickblenders

Animmersionorstickblenderisanimportanttoolinabakers’arsenal.Itdoesagreatjobofemulsifyingthefatandliquidincreamsandsauces,fromchocolateganachetobeurreblancormayonnaise.Unlikeawhisk,whichintroducesairintothemixture,animmersionblenderbindsthefatandtheliquidtogether(makinganemulsion),thusimprovingthetextureandreducingthefattysensationonthepalate.

Knivesandspatulas

Chefsarenotoriouslyprotectiveoftheirknivesandspatulas,notjustbecausethey’resocostlybutalsobecausethey’realmostlikeanextensionofourhands.Themorewebecomeusedtotheirweightorshape,themorepreciseandfastwebecomewhenusingthem,andthelesslikelywearetocutourselves.Whilethisappliestoalesserextenttoamateurbakers,Iwouldalwaysadviseyoutoinvestinqualitytools(orputitonyourChristmaswishlist),astheywilllastlongerandperformbetterovermanyyearsthanpoorerqualitytools.Mysuggestionforbuyingknives,spatulasand,indeed,anykitchentoolistogotoagoodkitchenwareshop,touchandholdtheminyourhandsuntilyoufindonethatfeelscomfortable.

Ideally,youshouldhavethreetypesofknivesandonespatula:

Chef’sknife Thisknife isused for everything, fromcuttingcroissants to cutting zest intojulienne,andcomesinawiderangeofsizes.Whileentirelysubjective,Ithinkexcessively longorheavyknivesaredifficulttohandleandnotveryuseful inbaking. I recommend a heavy-handled knife with a 25 cm (10 in) blade.Paradoxically,thebiggertheknife,thelesslikelyyouaretoinjureyourself.

Paringknife Thisknife isused formoreprecise tasks, suchas coringorpeeling fruit andvegetables.Itisamulti-purposeknife,verysimilartoachef’sknifebutwithasmallerbladeofaround10cm(4in).

Serratedknife

Alsoknownasabreadknife,thebladeistypically15–20cm(6–8in)inlength,verysharpanddesignedtocutthroughsoftbreadsandbrioches.

Steelspatula These are used to fill or decorate cakes. Choosing the length of spatula, itsweightandflexibilityisentirelyamatterofpersonalpreference.

P ipingbagsandnozzles

Apipingbagisoneofmyfavouritetoolsinthekitchen.Iuseitforsimpletaskssuchaspipingandfillingchouxpuffs,toverytrickydecoratingandwritingtechniques.Fortherecipesinthisbook,youwillonlyrequireonesmall(4mm/1/8in)plainnozzleandonelarge(1cm/½in)nozzleandasmallpipingbag.Theyarecheapandreadilyavailableonlineorfromacakedecoratingstore.

Tinsandrings

Youdon’tneedoneofeveryshapeandsizeontheplanet.Ifyoudon’thaveexactlytherighttin,usetheclosestsizeyouhave—generally1cm(½in)largerorsmallerwon’tmakemuchdifference.

Afewbasictinsthatyouwillneedarea20cm(8in)and25cm(10in)roundcaketins,a25cm(10in)tarttinwithremovablebase(ortartring)anda25cm(10in)loaf(bar)tin.Aslongasthevolumeofthetinisroughlythesameaswhattherecipecallsfor,youcanalsousesquareorrectangularcaketinsinsteadofroundtins.Tartrings(alsocalledringmoulds)areoftenusedbypâtissiersforaestheticreasonsbutareinterchangeablewithflutedtarttinswithremovablebases.Ifyouareusingatartring,placetheringonapieceofbakingpaper,linewiththepastry,thenslideathinbakingtrayunderneath.

Siliconemats

Whilecompletelyinterchangeablewithbakingpaper,siliconematsareaworthwhile,ifnotnecessary,investmentbecausethey’rereusableandvirtuallyindestructible.Whenbuyingamat,makesureitmatchesthesizeofyourbakingtrays,astheycan’tbetrimmedtofit.

Biscuitssecs

‘Poetryisthesynthesisofhyacinthsandbiscuits.’

CARLSANDBURG

Tuilesauxamandes(Almondtuiles)withTuilesdentelleàl’orangeetàlacannelle(Orangeandcinnamonlacetuiles)

Biscuitssecs

(Biscuits)

Idon’tknowwhywelovebiscuitsasmuchaswedo.Maybeit’sthefactthatmostcultureshavebeenbakingbiscuitsinoneformoranotherforhundredsofyears,ingrainingthemintoourcollectiveconsciousness.Ormaybeit’stheirsize—thingsjustlookbetterandcuterwhentheyaresmall.Inanycase,everyonehasmostlikelygazedlonginglyatthehugeassortmentofcolourfulanddelicious-lookingbiscuitsthatadorntheshelvesoftheirlocalbakeryand,almostcertainly,eachofusisguiltyofshakingthebiscuittinathome,hopingtofindthelastremainingbiscuit,onlytoendupscavengingafewcrumbs.

Idecidedtofeaturebiscuitsasthefirstchapterinthisbookbecausetheyareamazinglysimpletomakeandarethereforeidealtohoneyourbakingskills,ortointroduceyourkidstothejoysofbaking.Thegreatthingaboutbakingbiscuitsisthatonceyouunderstandthebasicsofmakingasimpledough,youcansubstituteingredientsbasedonyourownpreferences,orhavefunexperimentingwithflavoursbyaddingahintofspiceorsomenutsordriedfruitsifyoulike.Whoknows,youmayjuststumbleuponthenextclassicbiscuitrecipe!

Croquantsauxamandes

(Almondbiscotti)IwantedtoincludethistypicallyProvençalbiscuitinthisbookbecause,forme,itliesatthecore

ofwhatIlovemostaboutbaking—itsabilitytounlockmemorieslongthoughtforgotten.Itamazesmehowthesimpleactofbitingintoasmall,seeminglyinconsequentialbiscuitcantransportme,butforabriefmoment,straightbacktomychildhood,toawarmandhappyplace.

ManyyearsagowhenIwasyoungandlivinginMarseille,IhadafriendThierrywhosemotherwasanexcellentbaker,particularlyfamedforhercroquantsauxamandes.Everytimewevisited,weraidedthekitchencupboardinadesperatesearchforthebiscuittin.Hercroquantswerefragrantbutnotoverbearing,crunchy(which,bytheway,isthedirecttranslationofcroquant)yetsoft,andthereneverseemedtobeenoughofthem.FormanyyearsIbeggedThierrytoaskherfortherecipe,butshewouldneverpartwithit.Then,onmylastdayinFrance,aswewereallwaitingintheairportloungebeforemytriptoAustralia,Thierryslippedsomethingintomypocket.Itwasasealedenvelope,stamped‘StateSecret’.Ismiledgratefullyathimandgotontheplane.

Makesabout50

250g(9oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar

250g(9oz)almondmeal

3eggs,lightlybeaten,plus1extra,toglaze

2teaspoonsnaturalvanillaextract

2teaspoonsorangeblossomwater

200g(7oz)rawalmonds,roasted

100g(3½oz)pistachios

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.

LCombinetheflour,sugarandalmondmealinabowl,thentransfertoaworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.Pourtheeggs,vanillaandorangeblossomwaterintothewelland,usingyourfingertips,starttobringthedryingredientsintotheeggsandbeginmixing.Continuetoincorporatemoreandmoreoftheflourmixture,thenaddthealmondsandpistachiosandmixuntilalltheingredientshaveformedasuppledough.

LDividethedoughintofivepieces,thenrolleachpieceintoacylinderabout5–6cm(2–2½in)

indiameterandplaceononeofthelinedtrays.Lightlybeattheextraegginasmallbowl,thenbrushtheeggoverthetopofthedoughcylinders.

LBakethecylindersfor20minutes,thenremovefromtheovenandcoolslightly.Whencoolenoughtohandle,usealargechef’sknifetocutthecylindersinto2–3cm(¾–1¼in)thickslices.Placethebiscuitsonthelinedtraysinasinglelayerandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntillightgoldenbrown.Transfertoawireracktocool.

LCroquantsaredeliciouseatenwithacupofteaorcoffee,orasasmalltreatforkidswithaglassofmilk.Storetheminanairtightcontainerforupto1month.Aswithallotherbiscuits,iftheystarttosoftenalittle,simplydrythemina100°C(210°F)ovenfor10minutes.

Ithasbeenquiteajourneyforthesehumblebiscuits.Originallycalledcasse-dentsor‘teeth-breakers’,thesewerebakedtwicesotheywouldlastforalongtime,tocaterforthedemandsofsailorsonlongjourneysatsea.Nowadays,theyhavebeenrefinedintoamorepalatablebiscuit,andarecommonlyfoundinmostMediterraneancitiesunderthenamecroquantorbiscotti.

Tuiles

Tuilesauxamandes

(Almondtuiles)Thiscircular,concavebiscuitismeanttoresembletheshapeofarooftile(which,incidentally,is

theliteraltranslationoftheword‘tuile’),usuallyfoundinthesouthernregionofFrance.Therearehundreds(Iassume)ofvariationsoftheoriginalalmondtuile,rangingfrombrandysnapstofruit-basedlacetuiles,allcharacterisedbytheirdistinctivecurveandcrunchytexture.

Makes20–25

note:Allingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.Startthisrecipeadayahead.

75g(2¾oz)unsaltedbutter

125g(4½oz)eggwhites(about4)

¼teaspoonnaturalvanillaextract

50g(1¾oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

200g(7oz)flakedalmonds

LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanoververylowheat.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor5minutes.

LPuttheeggwhites,sugarandvanillainalargebowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthemixtureuntiltheeggwhitesbegintofoam.Combinetheflourandalmondsinasmallbowl,thenuseaspatulatofoldthemintotheeggwhites.Stirinthebutteruntilwellcombined.Donotletthebuttercooldowntoomuch,oritwillhardenuponcontactwiththecoolereggwhitemixture.Spoonthemixtureintoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LStirthechilledmixtureuntilsmooth,thendrop2/3tablespoonsofmixtureontooneofthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Lightlydipaforkinwaterandusethebackoftheforktospreadthemixtureintothin6cm(2½in)rounds.Bakethetuilesfor5–7minutes,oruntiltheybegintobrownaroundtheedges.Don’twaitforthemtobrowncompletely,orthey

willbecometoobrittletoshape.Removethetrayfromtheoven.

LWorkingquickly,useaspatulatocarefullyliftthetuilesoffthetray,thenlaythemoverarollingpinorsmallbottle.Youshouldbeabletoshapefourorfiveatatimeontherollingpin.Leaveuntilcompletelycool.Prepareandbakethenextbatchoftuiles,alternatingthetrayssothetrayyouareusinghashadtimetocooldown.Almondtuilesarebesteatenfreshlybaked,butcanbekeptforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.

You don’t need to use all themixture at once.Use half and bake some biscuits for afternoon tea, then store the rest of themixture in an airtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2weeks.

Tuilesdentelleàl ’orangeetàlacannelle

(Orangeandcinnamonlacetuiles)

Makesabout20

note:Alldryingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.

40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter

2½tablespoonsstrainedorangejuice

140g(5oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted

2tablespoonsplain(all-purpose)flour

smallpinchofgroundcinnamon

finelygratedzestof½orange

LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanoververylowheat.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor5minutes.Whencool,addtheorangejuiceandstirtocombine.

LPuttheicingsugar,flourandcinnamoninalargebowlandwhisktogetherwell.Pourthebutterandorangemixtureintotheflourmixture,addtheorangezest,thenuseawoodenspoontocombinewell.Spoonthemixtureintoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LStirthechilledmixtureuntilsmooth,thendrop½tablespoonsofmixtureontooneofthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Bakethetuilesfor5minutes,oruntillightgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandleaveonthetraytocoolfor2–3minutes,oruntilyoucanliftthemoffthetraywithaspatula.Donotattempttohandlethemtooearly,becausethesoftcaramelmaysticktoyourskinandcauseverydeepburns.

LWorkingquickly,useaspatulatocarefullyliftthetuilesoffthetray,thenlaythemoverarollingpinorsmallbottle.Youshouldbeabletoshapefourorfiveatatimeontherollingpin.Leaveuntilcompletelycool.Prepareandbakethenextbatchoftuiles,alternatingthetrayssothetrayyouareusinghashadtimetocooldown.Lacetuilesarebesteatenfreshlybaked,butcanbekeptforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.

Servethesedelicateandelegantlacetuilesasanaccompanimenttoasimplefruitsaladoricecreamtoaddtexture,orasasophisticatednibbleforyournextChampagnecocktail.Theyareversatiletoo;createyourownversionbysimplyswappingtheorangejuicewithanyotherjuices,suchasgrapefruitjuice,pineappleorguava.

F lorentines

It’softenthought(andoftendebated)thattheflorentinebiscuitcamefromFrance,andwhiletheyhavebeenastapleinalmosteveryFrenchbakerysincetheRenaissance,theirnameprovidesanobviousclueastowheretheyactuallyoriginated.Ilovethesebiscuitsfortheirbrightcontrastingcoloursandtheperfectbalancebetweenthebitternessofthedarkchocolateandthesweetnessofthecaramelisedalmondsandcandiedfruits.EnjoythemwithacupofstrongcoffeeoranEarlGreytea.

Makesabout20

180g(6¼oz)flakedalmonds

30g(1oz)almondmeal

30g(1oz)candiedorangepeel

30g(1oz)glacécherries,coarselychopped

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

50g(1¾oz)honey

40g(1½oz)whippingcream(35%fat)

500g(1lb2oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),chopped

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linethreebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LPutthealmonds,almondmeal,orangepeel,glacécherriesandflourinabowlandcombinewell.Putthebutter,sugar,honeyandcreaminaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatandstircontinuouslyuntilitcomestotheboil.Reducetheheattomedium,thencontinuestirringuntilthemixturereaches115°C(240°F)onasugarthermometer.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthedryingredientsandcombinewell.

LUsingtwotablespoons(onetopickupthemixtureandtheothertopushitoff),droptablespoonsofhotmixtureontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Youwillhavetoworkfast,asthemixturewillhardenquicklyasitcoolsdown.Wheneachtrayisfull,placeasheetofbakingpaperoverthetopandusethepalmofyourhandtogentlyflattentheflorentinestoa1cm(½in)thickness.Theyneedtobethesamethicknesssotheycookevenly.

LRemovethetoppieceofbakingpaper,thenplacethetraysintheovenandbakefor10–15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Watchthemlikeahawk—burntflorentinesaren’tverypleasant!Removefromtheovenand,ifdesired,usealightlygreasedroundbiscuitcuttertoevenouttheshape.Leaveonthetraysuntilcool.

LTocoattheflorentines,slowlymeltthechocolateinabain-marie(seetips),thenremovethebowlfromtheheatandsetasideuntilthechocolateiscool.Workingwithonebiscuitatatime,diptheflatsideoftheflorentineinthechocolate.Ifyoufeelcreative,useacomboraforktocreatethedistinctivewavypatternonthechocolate.Placetheflorentines,chocolatesideup,onatraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigerateforabout10minutes,oruntilset.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

Abain-marieisawaterbathusedtogentlycookingredientssuchaseggsorchocolate.Toprepareabain-marie,placeaheatproofbowloverasaucepanfilledwithwater,makingsurethebottomofthebowldoesnottouchthewater.Bringthewatertoasimmerovermediumheat.Thisensuresthattheingredientsinthebowlwillheatupverygraduallyandthatthecookingtemperatureneverexceeds80°C(175°F).

It’simportanttonotethatdarkchocolatetendstomelteasierthanmilkchocolate,whichcontainslesscocoabutterandthereforetendstoburnalotquicker.Ifyouaremeltingmilkchocolate,takeyourtime,leavetheheatonlowandstiroftenwithaspatulauntilmelted.

MacaronsdeNancy

(TraditionalNancymacarons)Thefirstthingyouwillnoticeaboutthesemacaronsisthattheyseeminglybearlittle

resemblancetothemacaronsyouareprobablymorefamiliarwith—themacaronGerbert,averypopularbiscuitthatcomesinhundredsofdifferentvariations.Inthepâtisserie,webakeover20,000oftheseeveryweek,buttheyaretechnicalandtime-consumingtomake(andprobablyoutsidethescopeofthisbook).

ThemacarondeNancyisaverytraditionalbiscuit;infact,itistheancestorofthefamedmacaronGerbert.MacaronsfirstarrivedinFranceinthesixteenthcenturywithCatherinedeMedici’sItalianpastrychefs,butreallygainednotorietyduringtheFrenchRevolutionwhentwonuns,SisterMargueriteandSisterMarie-Elisabeth,beganmanufacturingthemfromatowncalledNancy.Atthispointtheyweresinglealmondbiscuits,withachewycentreandbrittle,crunchyshell.ItwasnotuntilthenineteenthcenturythatPierreDesfontaines,acousinofafoundingmemberofthePâtisserieLadurée,createdthemacaronGerbertbysofteningupthemixturewithameringueandstickingtwoshellstogetherwithaflavouredfilling.

TherecipeformacaronsdeNancyisincrediblysimpleandremainsoneofthemostpopularbiscuitssoldinbakeriesthroughoutFrance.

Makesabout40

250g(9oz)almondmeal

320g(11¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

100g(3½oz)eggwhites(about3–4)

¼teaspoonbitteralmondessence,ortotaste

100g(3½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwobakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.

LCombinethealmondmealandcastersugarinabowl.Addtheeggwhitesandalmondessenceinoneadditionandstirwithawoodenspoonfor2–3minutes,oruntilaverystiffpasteforms.Themixturewillbegintosoftenasthewaterintheeggwhitesstartstodissolvethesugar.

LSpoonthemixtureintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzleandpipe5cm(2in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthem3–4cm(1¼–1½in)apart.Usingapastrybrush

lightlydippedincoldwater,brushoverthetopofeachmacaron,thensprinkleagenerousamountoficingsugaroverthetop.Usethebrushtowetthetopsagainuntilalltheicingsugarhasdissolved.

LBakefor15minutes,oruntiljustbeginningtocolour.Donotletthemacaronscaramelisetoomuch,astheyneedtobefairlysoft.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolonthetrays,thencarefullyremovefromthebakingpaper.Ifyourmacaronssticktothepaper,simplywettheundersideofthebakingpaperwithapastrybrushoraverywetcloth.Afterafewminutes,youwillbeabletoremoveyourpreciouslittlebiscuitsfromthepaper.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto7days.

WhenbakingNancymacarons,donotstresstoomuchaboutthebakingtime.Removethemacaronsaftertherecommendedcookingtime, leavetocoolalittle,thentasteonetoseeifitiscookedtoyourliking—itshouldbesoftandchewyontheinsidewithacrispyshell.Ifyoufindyourmacaronsaretoosoft,simplyreturnthemtoalowoventodryoutforalittlelonger.

Congolaisàl ’orgeat

(Coconutmacaroonswithorgeatsyrup)Theselittlebiscuitsfollowstraightafterthemacaronrecipe,becauseIwantedtoclarifythe

pointthatmacaronsandmacaroonsareactuallytwodistinctlydifferentthings,howeversimilartheirnamesmightbewhentranslatedinEnglish.BoththetraditionalNancymacaronandthemorefamousGerbertmacaronaremadewithalmondmeal,whilemacaroonsaremadewithcoconut.

ThecoconutmacaroonisnotactuallyaFrenchcreation,butatypicallyAnglo-Saxonone,saidtohaveoriginatedfromScotlandinthe1930s.TheyquicklyspreadtoGermanyandtheNetherlands,thentoNorthAmericaandAustraliabeforefindingtheirwell-deservedspotontheshelvesofalmosteverybakeryinFrance.Theyareamazinglysimpletobake,packedfulloffibreand,moreimportantly,theyarejustdelectable.

Makesabout20

150g(5½oz)shreddedcoconut1/8teaspoonfinesalt

60g(2¼oz)eggwhites(about2)

2teaspoonshoney

½teaspoonnaturalvanillaextract

2tablespoonsorgeatsyrup

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LPutthecoconutandsaltinalargeheatproofbowl.Puttheeggwhites,honey,sugar,vanillaandorgeatsyrupinasaucepanandwhiskcontinuouslyoverlowheatjustuntilthemixturefeelstepidtothetouch(about45°C/115°F).Pourthesugarmixtureontothecoconutandmixwithaspatulauntilwellcombined.

LTakesmallhandfulsofthemixtureandrollinto3–4cm(1¼–1½in)balls,thenplaceonthelinedtray.Unliketuilesorflorentines,macaroonswillnotspreadduringbakingsoyoucanplacethemclosetogether,butnottouching.Bakefor10minutes,oruntilthecoconutshredsontopofthemacaroonsbegintobrown.

LRemovefromtheovenandtransfertoawireracktocool.Ifyourmacaroonssticktothebakingpaper,simplywettheundersideofthepaperwithapastrybrushoraverywetcloth.Afterafewminutes,youwillbeabletoremovethemacaroonsfromthepaper.Macaroonsarebesteatenfresh,butwillkeepinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto4days.

Orgeatsyrupisavailableinlargesupermarketsorspecialistdelicatessensandisoftensoldasalmondsyrup.Itismadebyblendingalmonds,bitteralmonds,sugarandasmallamountoforangeblossomwater.Thesyrupcanbemixedwithwaterasarefreshingdrink,mixedwithalcoholicbeveragestomakecocktailssuchasMauresqueandMaiTai,orwithfruitjuicessuchasorangeandbananaormangoandpeach.ForgettheHangingGardensofBabylon,myseventhwonderoftheworldisasmallpatchofgrassinProvenceinsummer,whereIcanlayinalongchairwearingastrawhat,listeningtocicadasandsippingonacoldorange,bananaandorgeatcocktail.

Sablésàlaconfiture

(Jamshortbreads)Let’sfaceit;everyonelovesasoft,crumblyandbutteryshortbread.Whatmakesthesesospecial

isthattheycanbecuttoanyshapeandsize,filledwithjamofanyflavourand,moreimportantly,makingabatchofshortbreadonaSundayafternoonisagreatactivitythewholefamilycanenjoytogether.Traditionally,sablésàlaconfiturearemadewithtworoundbiscuitssandwichedtogetherwithstrawberryjam,withthreeholesrevealingtheshinyredspheresfrombehindaveiloficingsugar.Frankly,Iamatalosstoexplainthetechnicalreasonastowhytheytastesogood,buttheyjustdo.

Makesabout12sandwichedshortbreads

600g(1lb5oz)PâteSablée

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting

250g(9oz)strawberryjam

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linethreebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LDividethepastryinhalf,thencoveronehalfinplasticwrapandplaceinthefridge.Don’tattempttorolloutallthedoughatonce,asit’stoodifficulttoachieveaneventhicknesswhenrollingoutalargeamount.Rolloutthedoughonapieceofbakingpaperuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,makingsureyoudustthepaperandrollingpinwithalittlebitoffloursothedoughdoesn’tstick.Usingan8cm(3¼in)roundcutter,cutoutasmanydiscsasyoucan(youwillneedanevennumberofdiscs).Ifthedoughisstickingtothepaper,placeinthefridgefor15minutestofirmupalittle.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

LPlacethediscsonthelinedtrays.Usinga2cm(¾in)roundcutter,stampoutthreesmallholesfromhalfthediscs(leavetheotherhalfuncut,asthesewillformthebase).Bakefor15minutes,oruntillightgolden.Removefromtheoven,leaveonthetraystocoolalittle,thencarefullyturntheshortbreadbasesupsidedown.Whencompletelycool,dustagenerousamountoficingsugaroverthetopoftheshortbreaddiscswithholes.

LPutthejamand1tablespoonwaterinasmallsaucepanandstirovermediumheatuntilsoftandwellcombined.Removefromtheheat.Spreadabout1tablespoonhotjamontotheupside-downshortbreadbases,thengentlycoverwiththesugaredtops.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

Unlikepâtesucrée,whichhasthetendencytotoughenwithexcessivemixing,pâtesabléecanberolledoverandoveragainandstillremainveryshortandtasty.Thismakesitanidealpastryforkidstoplaywith,astheycanmakefunbiscuitshapesthenrerollthedoughscrapsandcontinuecutting.Feelfreetokeepanydoughoffcutsinthefridgeorfreezer,coveredinplasticwrap,toreuseatalaterstage.

Biscuitsauchocolat,auxamandesetauxpistaches

(Chocolate,almondandpistachiobiscuits)Writingabookonbakingandnotincludingarecipeforchocolatebiscuitswouldbealmost

sacrilegious,regardlessofwhethertheyaretypicallyFrenchornot.Personally,Ilikemychocolatebiscuitscrunchyontheoutsidewithasoft,chewycentreand,ofcourse,withpistachios.Ihavedevelopedareputationforoverdoingthepistachiosabit,butIreallycan’timagineaworldwithoutthisamazingnut.Whetherjustfortheircolour—sprinkledonaplatetocreateabeautifulcontrastwithredcherriesorchocolate—orfortheirtextureorsubtlesweetness,Ihaveusedpistachiosforoverthirtyyears,acrosseverypossiblerangeofproducts,frombreadstobriochesandcakes.Inthisrecipe,thepistachiosaddanadditionallayeroftextureandastunningcontrastofcolourbut,ofcourse,ifyoudon’tlovethemlikeIdo,replacethemwithanyothertypeofnut,suchasmacadamias,walnutsorpeanuts.

Makesabout45

note:Allingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.

125g(4½oz)blanchedalmonds

120g(4¼oz)pistachios

220g(7¾oz)darkchocolate(60–70%cocoasolids),chopped

150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped

½teaspoonfinesalt

5g(1/8oz)bakingpowder

220g(7¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar

75g(2¾oz)eggs(lightlybeat2eggstogether,thenmeasure)

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Putthealmondsonabakingtrayandroastforabout10minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandcool.Putthealmondsandpistachiosinafoodprocessorandprocessuntilcoarselychopped,thensetaside.

LMeltthechocolateandbutterinabain-marie(seetips).Whenmelted,removethebowlfromtheheatandcooltoroomtemperature.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LSifttheflour,saltandbakingpowderintoabowlandsetaside.Putthesugarandeggsinalargebowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthesugarandeggsuntilthickandpale,thenaddthecooledchocolatemixtureandfoldinwellwithawoodenspoon.Makesureyoureggsareatroomtemperature,ascoldeggsmaycauseyourchocolatetocrystalliseandformhardlumps.Foldinthesiftedflourmixture,thenaddthecrushednutsandcombinewell.

LShapeleveltablespoonsofthemixtureintoballsandplaceontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart(seetips),thenflattentheballswiththepalmofyourhandtoabout5cm(2in)indiameter.Bakeforabout10minutes,oruntilyoucanseewell-definedcracksallthewaytothecentreofthebiscuit.Coolonawirerack,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto7days.

It’simportantthatthedoughballsareallaboutthesamesize,sotheycookevenly.Iliketoweigheachdoughballtomakesuretheyareallthesamesize.

Thisdoughfreezeswell.Rollanyleft-overdoughintoalongcylinderabout5cm(2in)indiameter,coverinplasticwrapandfreeze.Touse,thawthecylindertoroomtemperatureandthencutinto3cm(1¼in)thickslicesandbakeasyouwouldfreshdough.

Bugnes

(Frenchvanillacrostoli)IhaveveryclearandhappymemoriesofwhenIwasasmallboy,sittingonthesideofthe

kitchentable,watchingmymotherandgrandmothermakingbugnes.Ilovedthewholeprocess,fromtheinitialdiscussionoverwhowasgoingtodowhat,totheactualmomentwhentheystartedcutting,rollingandthenbakingthedough.Bylateafternoon,whenalltheworkwasdone,thewholefamilywouldregroupandchatabouttheirdayoversomefreshlybakedbugnesandaglassortwoofrosé.MakingthosebiscuitsembodiedeverythingthatIloveaboutbaking.Itwasthecatalystthatbroughteveryonetogether,naturallyandeffortlessly.

Forthisrecipe,Ialwaysusethetraditionalmethodthatmygrandmothertaughtme.Thelittleextrabitofloveandcaregiventothedoughbymixingtheingredientsbyhandsomehowalwaysmakesthesebiscuitstasteevenbetter.

Makes50–60

1tablespoonnaturalvanillaextractorvanillabeanpaste

3tablespoonsrum

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

100g(3½oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugar

2teaspoonsbakingpowder

1teaspoonfinesalt

finelygratedzestof1lemon

250g(9oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,chopped

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying

LUsingafork,lightlybeattheeggs,vanillaandruminasmallbowl.Puttheflour,cornflour,sugar,bakingpowder,saltandlemonzestinamoundonyourworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.Rubthebutterintothedryingredientsbypushingthebutterandflourmixturetogetherwiththepalmofyourhanduntilallthebutterisfullyincorporatedintothedryingredients.Thisprocess,calledsablage,isdesignedtokeepthedoughshortbyinsulatingtheglutenintheflourwiththefat(thispreventsitfromtougheninguponcetheeggsareadded).

LAddtheeggmixture,alittleatatime,andincorporatetheflouruntilthedoughcomestogether.(Alternatively,youcanfollowthesameprocessusinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.)Flattenthedoughintoadisc,thencoverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout2mm(1/16in)thick.Youcanuseapastamachinetorollitout,ifyouprefer.Usingaparingknife,cutthedoughintorectanglesabout5cm(2in)wideand12cm(4½in)long,thenmakea3cm(1¼in)cutlengthwaysthroughthemiddleandfoldoneendoftherectanglethroughtheincision.Placeonbakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,coverwithaclothandsetasidefor10minutes.

LHeattheoilinadeep-fryerorlarge,heavy-basedsaucepanto190°C(375°F).Workinginbatches,cookthebugnesfor2minutesoneachside,oruntilgolden.Removeanddrainonpapertowel.Whencool,dustwithicingsugar.Storeinanairtightcontainerforupto7days.

technicaltip

Thecharacteristicbubbleson thesebiscuits, verymuch like those foundonSicilian cannoli, are createdby the additionof alcoholdirectly into thedough.Thealcoholistrappedunderathinlayerofdough,butevaporatesalmostinstantlyoncontactwiththehotoil,creatingthelunarlandscapeonyourbiscuit.Thebakingpowdertakeslongertoreleasecarbondioxide,whichconsequentlybecomestrappedbythedoughasitcooks,lighteningupthewholebiscuit.

BugnesaretypicallyfromLyonbuteveryregionhastheirownadaptationandnames.InProvencetheyarecalledmerveillesororeillettes—theyaresimilartobugnesbutmadewithoutthebakingpowderandaretypicallyflavouredwithorangeblossom.InNicetheyarecalledgansesNiçoises,andaremadewitholiveoilinsteadofbutter.

Navettesàl ’eaudefleurd ’oranger

(Orangeblossomnavettes)Let’sclosethischapterwithaspecialtyfromMarseille.NavettesareatypicalProvençalbiscuit

usuallyservedinMarseilleatLaChandeleur(Candlemas)—areligiouscelebrationheldinFebruary—insteadofthetraditionalcrêpesservedeverywhereelseinFrance.Theyaresmallandoblonginshape,withpointedendsandadeepcutdowntheirlength,andaremeanttoresembleasmallregionalfishingboatcalledapointu,meaning‘pointed’.Navettesaredeliciouslycrunchyandinfusedwithsubtlehintsofoliveoilandorangeblossom,andrank,alongwiththecroquant,asoneofmyfavouritebiscuits.

Makes32

½teaspoonfinesalt

2eggs,lightlybeaten

120ml(4floz)oliveoil

finelygratedzestof1orange

1tablespoonorangeblossomwater

2eggs,extra

LCombinetheflour,sugarandsaltinabowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Addthelightlybeateneggs,oliveoil,orangezestandorangeblossomwater.Useyourhandstomixeverythingtogetherfor5minutes,oruntilsmooth.Coverwithaclothandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor1hour.Anyshortdoughs,suchasshortbreadsmadewithflourandaliquid(eggs),mustbelefttorestforatleastanhourtoallowtheglutenstrands(wheatprotein)torelaxandshorten.Failingtodothiswillinevitablyleadtoatoughandunpleasanttexture.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.Dividethedoughintofourportions,thenrolleachportionintoacylinderabout4cm(1½in)indiameter.Usingasmallsharpknife,cuteachcylinderintoeightpieces.Shapeeachpieceintoa10cm(4in)longroll,thenpinchtheendsslightlytogivethemataperedshape.Placeonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.

LUsingasharpparingknife,makeadeepincisionlengthwaysdownthemiddleofeachroll.Puttheextraeggsinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined.Lightlybrushthe

topsoftherollswiththeeggwash,thenplaceinthefridgetorestfor1hour.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Cookingonetrayatatime,bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15–20minutes,oruntilthebasesareslightlybrownandthetopsaredarkblonde.Ifyourbiscuitsarebrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Coolonthetrays,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto2weeks.

AlotoftraditionalrecipesfromtheMediterraneanbasinuseoliveoilinsteadofbutter,becauseoiltendstobemoreresilientinhotclimatesthandairyproducts.Butterremainedthepreserveofregionswithcoolerclimatesuntiltheinventionofrefrigeration,afactthathashadahugeinfluenceonregionalspecialtiestheworldover.

Gâteauxetdesserts

‘Butwhenfromalong-distantpastnothingsubsists,afterthepeoplearedead,afterthethingsarebrokenandscattered,tasteandsmellalone…remain’

MARCELPROUST,REMEMBRANCEOFTHINGSPAST

Gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat(Bakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesauce)

Gâteauxetdesserts

(Cakesanddesserts)

Bakingconjuresupdifferentthingsfordifferentpeople.Forsome,itisallaboutbreads—artisanbakerswho,likemagicians,transformahandfulofingredientsintoaseeminglyendlessarrayofwondrousgoldenbrownrollsandloaves—andforothersit’smoretodowithdeliciouscakes,finepâtisserieandfancydesserts.Forme,bakingismoreabouttheemotionsandconnectionsIhavewhenI’mcooking—thesimple,everydaypastries,breadsandcakesthatmymotherorgrandmothercooked,justastheirownmothersandgrandmothershaddone.WhenI’minmyownkitchen,myhandsandfacedustywithflour,Iamsooftenreconnectedwithscenesfrommychildhood,longagonow,ofhappytimesspentsittingatawoodentableinakitchenfilledwiththewonderfularomaofcakesbakingintheoven,whilemymotherchattedandbustledabout,andmydadandsisterlickedtheleft-overbatterfromthebowlsandspoons.

Allthecakesanddessertsincludedinthischapterhaveleftanimpressiononme,whetherit’sbecausetheyrekindledalong-lostmomentintime,orforthesimplefactthattheyarejustdelectable.Theonethingtheydohaveincommon,however,isthatthesearedeliciousandalmostfailproofrecipesthatyoucanachieveathomeusingsimple,readilyavailableingredients.

Gâteaumarocain

(FlourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcake)UnlikethetraditionalMoroccanmeskouta(orangeandalmondcake),madewithflourandoil

andservedsoakedinorangejuiceandcinnamonsyrup,thisparticularcakedoesnotcontainanyflour,oilsorbutter,soifyouareglutenintolerantorcountingyourkilojoules,thenthisisforyou!

Iliketoservethiscakewithbloodorangesegments,somecandiedlemonslicesandasprinkleofchoppedalmonds.Theseflavoursworksobeautifullytogetherandit’savisualtreattoo,withthecolourspoppingofftheplate.

Serves12–14

note:Thisrecipemakestwocakes,sofeelfreetohalvetherecipeifyouprefer.

2oranges

600g(1lb5oz)almondmeal

15g(½oz)bakingpowder

Todecorate

2bloodoranges,segmented

50g(1¾oz)rawalmonds,roastedandcoarselychopped

candiedlemonslices

ediblesmallflowers,suchasviolas

LPuttheorangesinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwater.Coverwithalidandbringtotheboilovermediumheat,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor45minutes,oruntiltheorangesbegintocrackopen.Draintheorangesandsetasideuntilcool,thenbreakthemopenandremovetheseeds.Placetheunpeeledfruitinafoodprocessorandpuréeuntilsmooth.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreaseandflourtwo8x25cm(3¼x10in)loaf(bar)tins.

LPutthealmondmealandbakingpowderinalargebowl,combinewellandsetaside.Using

anelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whiskthesugarandeggsonhighspeedfor10minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Addtheorangepuréeandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombined,thenpourthemixtureontothealmondmealmixtureandgentlyfoldinuntilcombined.

LPourthemixtureintothepreparedtinsuntilthree-quartersfull.Theoverallvolumeofmixturewillvaryslightlydependingonhowenthusiasticallyyoumixedthebatter,soonlyfillthetinsthree-quartersfullandbakeanyleft-overbatterinagreasedcoffeecuporramekin.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenforabout35minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolbeforerefrigeratinginthetinsforatleast1hour.

LTounmould,placethecakesina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutes,theninvertontoaservingplate.Decoratethecakeswiththebloodorangesegments,choppedalmonds,someslicesofcandiedlemonandedibleflowers.Ifyoulike,makeaglaze(seetips)tobrushoverthecakebeforeaddingtheflowers.Thiscakewillremainsoftfor7daysifwrappedandstoredinthefridge.

Youcanreplacetheorangeswithanyothercitrusfruit—trylime,lemon,pinkgrapefruitormandarin.Ifusinglimeorlemon,increasethesugarto600g(llb5oz)tobalancethetartness.

Toachievetheprofessionalshinyfinishyouseeonthetopofcakesinpâtisseries(andusedformanyofthecakesinthischapter,suchasthisone),boil100g(3½oz)apricotjamwith2tablespoonswaterfor1minuteandbrushtheglazeoverthecakeandfruit.Ifyoufindyourglazeistoothin,boilitforanadditionalminuteorso.

Gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat

(Bakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesauce)Cheesecakeshavebeenaroundsincethediscoveryofcheese,whichitselfdatesbackover8000

yearsago,andeveryregionandcountryhasadoptedtheirownspecialtechniquesandpreferences.TheFrenchversionofcheesecakediffersfrommanyversionsinthatitismadewithasmallamountofmeringueandistraditionallyservedwithachocolatesauce,curdorfruitcoulis.InthisrecipeIhaveaddedsomeyoghurttobringasubtletouchofsourness,whichhelpstooffsetsomeofthesweetnessofthechocolate,andthemandarinworkswondersatbalancingtherichnessofthecheese.Allinall,thisisasophisticatedanddelicatedessertthatwouldn’tfeeloutofplaceservedanywhere,fromaquicksnackforbreakfast(yes,really!)toapetitfourservedatafancycocktailparty.

Serves8–10

200g(7oz)PâteSablée

460g(1lb)creamcheeseorneufchâtelcheese

200g(7oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

20g(¾oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

½teaspoonfinesalt

3eggyolks

2tablespoonsstrainedmandarinjuice

60ml(2floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

2tablespoonsfull-creammilk

finelygratedzestof2mandarins

2eggwhites

Mandarin-chocolatesauce

300ml(10½floz)strainedmandarinjuice

180g(6¼oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids),chopped

180g(6¼oz)milkchocolate,chopped

2tablespoonshoney

finelygratedzestof1mandarin

60g(2¼oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

Todecorate

driedcitruszest(optional)(seetips)

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasea25cm(10in)roundcaketinandlinethebaseandsidewithbakingpaper.Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.

LRolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughsticking.Usingthecaketinasatemplate,cutoutacircleofdough,thenplaceonthelinedtrayandbakefor15minutes,oruntilthepastrybeginstoturngoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.Trimaroundthecoldshortbreadbasewithasharpparingknifeandthencarefullydropitdownontothebaseofthepreparedcaketin.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthecreamcheese,yoghurt,cornflour,110g(33/4oz)ofthesugarandthesaltonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddtheeggs,eggyolksandmandarinjuiceandbeatuntilsmooth.Scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddthecream,milkandmandarinzest.Increasethespeedtomediumandbeatuntilsmoothandcreamy.

LTransferthecreamcheesemixturetoalargebowl.Washthebowloftheelectricmixerthoroughlytoremoveanytracesoffat,thenusingthewhiskattachment,whisktheeggwhitesandremaining110g(33/4oz)ofsugaronthehighestspeeduntilthemeringueisthickandshiny.Reducethespeedtolowandcontinuewhiskingfor1–2minutes,thengentlyfoldthemeringueintothecreamcheesemixturewithaspatula.Takecarewhenhandlingtheeggwhitesatthispoint,oryouwillpushtheairoutofthemandendupwithadensecheesecake—simplyuseacircularfoldingmotionuntilcombined.

LReducetheoventemperatureto100°C(210°F).Pourthefillingintothetin,ontopofthepastrybase,andbakefor60–80minutes,oruntilthecakeisfirmandstopswobbling.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforatleast30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Todothis,coverthetopofthecheesecakewithapieceofbakingpaper,thenplaceaflattrayontop.Flipeverythingover,removethetin,thenflipthecheesecakeontoaservingplate.

LMeanwhile,tomakethemandarin-chocolatesauce,putthemandarinjuiceinasmall

saucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Putthedarkandmilkchocolates,honeyandmandarinzestinaheatproofbowl,then,whiskingcontinuously,graduallypourthehotjuiceintothebowl(addtheliquidintwoorthreebatches,sothechocolatedoesn’toverheat).Whiskuntilsmooth,thensetasideuntilcooledtoabout40°C(105°F),oruntiltepidtothetouch.Addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoprocessuntilsmoothandwellcombined.

LJustbeforeserving,gentlyheatthesauceinabain-marieuntilwarm(seetips),oralternativelyheatitinamicrowaveforafewseconds,buttakecarethatitdoesn’treachanywherenearboilingpointorthechocolatewillburn.Toserve,drizzlethemandarin-chocolatesauceoverthecheesecakeandsprinklewithsomedriedcitruszest,ifusing.

Cheesecakesshouldbeservedatroomtemperature,asthisallowsthefattomeltquickerinthemouth,dramaticallyimprovingboththetextureandflavour.

Tomakedriedzestfordecoration,useamicroplaneoragratertofinelygratethezestof4mandarins,oranges,lemonsorlimes.Bring500ml(17floz)waterand1teaspoonsalttotheboilinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat,thenaddthegratedzest.Blanchfor3–4minutes,thenstrainthroughafinesieveandpatdrywithpapertowel.Spreadontoatraylinedwithbakingpaperandbakeina80°C(175°F)ovenfor1hour,oruntilcompletelydry.Cool,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto1month.

Whilemostofmycommentsabouttherecipesinthisbookseemtoindicatethatflavourandtastearemymostpressingconcerns(probablybecausetheyare),rememberthatalotofingredientsusedinbakingarehighinsaturatedfat.Idon’tmeantowarnyouoffsaturatedfats;rather,Iwanttopointoutthatbiscuitsandcakesaremeantnottofeedyou,butsimplytolivenyourdayalittle,eatenasasmalltreatafteramealorwithacupofteaorcoffeeforafternoontea.Inmyopinion,itisfarbettertoreduceyourportionsizeinsteadofcompromisingonthetasteofyourcakesbyusingsubstandardingredientssuchasmargarineorlow-fatdairyproducts.

Madeleines

ItwouldbeunusualtofindabookonFrenchbakingthatdidn’tincludeamadeleineinitslistofrecipes.IrememberasachildhowIdrooledoverthoselittlescallopedbuttercakesasIlookedatthemlonginglythroughthewindowofmylocalpâtisserie,neverhavingquiteenoughmoneytoaffordtobuyoneonmydailytriptoschool.Whilethisprovidedmyfirstlessoninfinancialmanagement,italsomademerealisethatthemoreyoulongforsomethingthemoredeliciousittastes!

Reassuringly,everyoneelseseemstohavethesameaffinityasIdoforthesesmalleighteenth-centurycakes.Mostfamously,MarcelProustinhismuch-heraldednovelRemembranceofThingsPastdescribesbeautifullyhisfirsttasteofamadeleine:‘NosoonerhadthewarmliquidmixedwiththecrumbstouchedmypalatethanashiverranthroughmeandIstopped,intentupontheextraordinarythingthatwashappeningtome.’

Makesabout24

note:ForthisrecipeIstronglyrecommendusingametalmadeleinetrayratherthanasiliconemould,asthe

metaltransferstheheatalotfasterandwillhelpcreatethecharacteristicball-shapedtop.

120g(4¼oz)unsaltedbutter

135g(4¾oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

4g(1/8oz)bakingpowder

1teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest

3teaspoonsvegetableoil

LMeltthebutterinasmallsaucepanoverlowheat,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocooluntiltepid.

LSifttogethertheflourandbakingpowder.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggs,sugarandlemonzestuntillightandfluffy.Gentlyfoldinthemeltedbutterandtheoil,thenfoldintheflourmixture.Transfertoabowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast3hours,orovernightforabetterresult.

LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F).Greaseandlightlyflouramadeleinetray.Igenerallyuseonewithholesthatmeasureabout7.5x5cm(3x2in)(seetip).Filltheholesthree-quartersfull

withbatter.Reducetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F),thenplacethetrayonthebottomshelfoftheovenandbakefor8minutes.Removethecakesfromthetraywhilestillwarm.Whenthetrayiscool,wipeclean,thengreaseandlightlyflourthetrayagainandrepeatwiththeremainingbatter.Madeleinesarebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked,preferablystraightoutoftheoven.

Whileatypicalmadeleinealwayscomesinanoval,scallopedshape,thebatterinthisrecipeistheheroandnottheshape.Feelfreetouseindividualcaketinsinothershapes,providingtheyarenodeeperthanabout5cm(2in).Ifyoudouseamadeleinetray,notethattheyareavailableinsmallandlargesizes.Alternatively,realscallopshellscanwork,buttheyneedtobegreasedwithbutterandflouredbeforeuse.

Financiersauxframboisesetàlanoixdecoco

(Raspberryandcoconutfriands)Althoughbetterknownasalmondfriands,thesepopularlittlecakesareactuallycalled

financiers,so-namedbecauseoftheirgoldingotshape.Interestingly,itisthoughtthatthefinancierwasinspiredbyasmallcakecalledvisitandine,namedaftertheCatholicnunswhoinventedthem.Thenunspaintedwithtempurapaint,whichtheymadefromeggyolks,andtherecipewastheperfectsolutionforwhattodowithalltheleft-overeggwhites.However,thecake’sdistinctiveingotshapeandcurrentnamewastheworkofachefcalledLasne,whohadashopinthefinancialdistrictofParis,andbakedtheminthisshapeasagimmicktoenticethelocaltraders.

WhilethefinanciercontinuestobebakedasasmallrectangleinFrance,itisnowsoldinallshapesandenhancedbyamultitudeofflavours.Thisversionismyfavourite;thetartnessoftheraspberriesprovidestheperfectfoilfortherichnessofthecake,andthecoconutbringsalittlebitoftexture.Iconsiderthemasthemuffin’ssophisticatedcousin—richer,softerandwithamorerefinedtexture.Trythemonceandyouwillneverlookback!

Makes20

note:Alldryingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.Startthisrecipeadayahead.

200g(7oz)almondmeal

300g(10½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar

150g(5½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

250g(9oz)eggwhites(about8–9)

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter

250g(9oz)raspberries,freshorfrozenwhole

100g(3½oz)flakedcoconut

LPutthealmondmeal,icingsugarandflourinabowlandcombinewell.Usingahand-heldwhisk,lightlywhisktheeggwhitesuntilfoamy;donotwhisktheeggwhitestoomuchoryourcakeswillcollapseduringbaking.Foldtheeggwhitesintothealmondmealmixtureuntiljustcombined.Rememberthatanybattercontainingflour(andthereforegluten)willtoughenupwithexcessivemixing,sodon’tbetemptedtopreparethisusinganelectricmixer.

LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheatassoonasyounoticethebutterhasstartedtobrown—thisisbeurrenoisette.Mixing

continuously,pourthehotbutterthroughasieveintoyourbatterandmixuntilcombinedwell(seetips).Transfertoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F).Lightlygreaseandflour20financiermouldsoruse125ml(4floz)friandorbriochetins.Forthebestresults,usesteeloraluminiummoulds,andwhiletheshapeisentirelyuptoyou,thisrecipeisdesignedtobebakedinindividualcakemoulds.

LDividethebatteramongthepreparedmoulds.Placeafewraspberriesandsprinklesomecoconutoverthetopofeachone.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Placeonawireracktocoolalittle,thenremovefromthemoulds.Likemostcakes,thesearebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked.

Toavoidlumpsforminginthebatterwhenyouaddthehotbutter,it’simportantthatyouringredients(almonds,sugar,flourandeggs)areatroomtemperaturebeforeyoustart.

Althoughraspberriesprovideagoodbalanceof tartness in thesecakes, feel free touseotheracidic fruit suchaspassionfruit,blackcurrantsorevenchoppedgrannysmithapples.

Fondantauchocolatetauxnoix

(Chocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecake)IcameupwiththisrecipeintheearlyyearsofmyapprenticeshipatPâtisseriePasquet,in

Marseille,longbeforeIwasawareoftheexistenceoffudges,andwhileIwasverypleasedwithmyeffort,theheadchefwasratherunderwhelmed.Hesaiditwastoodensetobeagoodcakeandtoosofttobeabiscuitanddescribeditasunsophisticated,butIwasquietlyproudofmyconcoction.Itmayhavebeenaroughdiamond,butithadawonderfullysoft,butteryfleshenhancedbythetextureofthewalnuts,andjusttherightamountofsweetness.Itendedupbeingoneofourbest-selling‘sortofcakes’.

Serves12–14

9eggyolks

135g(4¾oz)raw(demerara)sugar

75g(2¾oz)honey

180g(6¼oz)milkchocolate(35–40%cocoasolids),chopped

450g(1lb)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,chopped

4eggwhites

250g(9oz)walnuts,coarselychopped

180g(6¼oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

Caramel

70ml(2¼floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped

Todecorate

sliveredpistachios

walnuts,roastedandroughlychopped

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,unsifted

LTomakethecaramel,putthecreaminasaucepanovermediumheatandbringtojustbelowtheboil.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthesugarand2tablespoonswaterinamediumheavy-basedsaucepan(seetip).Cookovermediumheat,withoutstirring,untilthesugarcaramelisestogoldenbrown.Stirringcontinuously,carefullypourinthewarmcream(beextremelycarefulwhenyoudothis,astherewillbealotofveryhotsteam).Stirfor1minute,thenremovefromtheheat.Addthebutterandstiruntilwellcombined.Usingastickblender,emulsifythecarameluntilsmoothandshiny.Cooltoroomtemperature.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggyolks,rawsugar,honeyand135g(43/4oz)ofcastersugaronhighspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntillightandcreamy.Transferthemixturetoamediumbowl.

LMeanwhile,meltthechocolateinabain-marie(seetips).Removefromtheheat,addthebutterandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilsmoothandwellcombined,thensetaside.

LPreheattheovento140°C(285°F).Lightlygreasetwo8x25cm(3¼x10in)loaf(bar)tinsandlinethebaseandsideswithbakingpaper.

LPuttheeggwhitesinthecleanbowloftheelectricmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachmentandwhiskonthehighestspeeduntilsoftpeaksform.Becarefulnottooverwhisktheeggwhitesortheywillsplit(seetip).Reducethespeedtolow,thengraduallyaddtheremaining210g(7½oz)ofcastersugarandcontinuemixingonlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntilthemeringueisthickandglossy.Usingarubberspatula,foldthechocolateandbuttermixture,walnutsandlemonzestintothemeringueuntiljustcombined.Foldintheeggyolkmixture,thentheflouruntilwellcombined.

LDividethemixturebetweenthepreparedtinsandbakefor40minutes,orjustuntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasideinthetinfor1hour.Invertthetinsontoseparateservingplates,thenpourhalfthesoftcarameloverthetopofeachloaf.Sprinklewiththepistachios,walnutsandicingsugar.Thiscakeisdeliciousservedcoldwithascoopofmascarponeandaglassoffortifiedwine.

Whencookingcaramel,itisbesttouseamedium-sizedpan,eventhoughyouareonlyusingasmallamountofsugarandwater.Thisallowsthesteamtoescapewhenthecoolerliquidisaddedtothewarmcaramel.Asthesugarstartstocaramelise,useapastrybrushdippedincoldwatertocleanoffanysugarcrystalsonthesideofthepan.

Muffinscaramel-banane

(Bananaandcaramelmuffins)Youmightbesurprisedtoseeamuffinrecipeinthisbook.Theyarenotsomethingyou’dsee

veryofteninaFrenchbakery,butIhaveincludedthemherebecausetheyareincrediblyquickandeasytomakeandalmostfailproof—theperfectrecipeforbuddingbakers.MuffinscanbeamazinglyversatileandIloveexperimentingwithnewflavoursandtextures.Thisbananaandcaramelversionisoneofmyfavourites,butfeelfreetousethisrecipeasabaseandletyourimaginationrunwild.Youcouldtrysomethingadventurous,suchasapricotandverbena,orbitterchocolatewithcoffeeandcardamom,orifyouprefersomethingalittlemoreconservative,tryraspberriesandcoconut.

Makes24

3mediumbananas

juiceof1lemon

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter

Batter

540g(1lb3oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2½teaspoonsfinesalt

18g(¾oz)bakingpowder

540ml(18¼floz)full-creammilk

330ml(11¼floz)vegetableoil

LCutthebananasinto1cm(½in)thickslicesandplaceinabowl.Addthelemonjuice,tosstocoatwell,thensetaside(seetip).

LPutthebutterandsugarinalargefryingpanoverhighheatandcookuntilmelted.Strainthebananasoverabowlandreservethelemonjuice,thenplacethebananaslicesinasinglelayerinthepanwiththemeltedbutterandsugar.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor2–3minutes,oruntilthesugarcaramelises.Turnthebananasinthecarameluntilbothsidesaregolden,then

removefromthepanandplaceinabowl.Addthereservedlemonjuicetothecaramelandcombinewell,thentransfertoaheatproofbowl.Coverthetwobowlscontainingthebananasandcaramel,thenrefrigeratefor1hour,oruntilcold.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linetwo12-holestandardmuffintinswithpapercasesorsquaresofbakingpaper.

LTomakethebatter,useanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmentonlowspeedtocombinetheflour,sugar,saltandbakingpowder.Lightlybeattheeggs,milkandoilinabowluntilwellcombined.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheeggmixturetothedrymixture,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlandthepaddlesasyougo.Don’taddtoomuchliquidatonceoryouwillendupwithlumps.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourbeforeusing.

LHalf-fillthepapercaseswiththebatter.Addafewslicesofbananaandateaspoonofcarameltoeach,thentopupwithenoughbattertocomeabout1cm(½in)fromthetopofthecases.Topwithafewmoreslicesofbananaandanotherteaspoonofcaramel,thenbakefor40minutes,oruntilaskewercomesoutcleanwheninsertedintothecentreofamuffin.Leavetocoolinthetinfor5minutes,thenremovetoawirerack.

technicaltip

Lemonjuiceisaddedtotheslicedbananastostopthemfrombrowning(oxidising).Thisiscausedbyachemicalprocesscalled‘enzymaticbrowning’,wheretheenzymesinthefruitreacttothepresenceofoxygen.ThisprocesscanbesloweddownbyreducingthepHlevelofthefruitbyaddinganacid.Inbakingweusuallyusecitrusfruit(theyhaveahighcontentofascorbicandcitricacid),notonlytoslowoxidationbutbecausetheirtartflavourworksverywellatreducingtheperceivedtasteofsweetness.Insavourycookingorwhenanacidictasteisundesirable,soaktheslicedfruitorvegetableincoldwatertoreducetheirexposuretooxygen.

Diplomate

(Breadandbutterpudding)Ifyouhavebeenexperimentingwithbakingcroissants,briochesorbreadsandyounowhave

morethanyouknowwhattodowith,thediplomateistheanswertoyourdilemma.Everyday,everybakeraroundtheplanetfacestheproblemofdecidinghowmanyviennoiserietheyneedtoproduce:notenoughandthecustomerswillgetupset,toomanyandthewastagecostswillsoonamounttoasmallfortune.Nowthatwearen’tallowedtogiveawayourleft-overstockbecauseofoverzealousregulations,theonlychoiceleftistofindaningeniousmethodtorecyclethem.OverthecourseofmycareerIhaveseenitall,fromthesurprisinglytastyrumballs,oftenmadewithleft-overcakeorpastries,tocuttingalmondmealwithshreddedcroissantsand,ofcourse,thedeliciouslyrusticandearthybreadandbutterpudding.

Serves6

500g(1lb2oz)day-oldcroissantsand/orbrioches

200g(7oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)

1.5litres(52floz)full-creammilk

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

12eggs

50ml(1¾floz)rum

200g(7oz)apricotjam,forglazing

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreasea12x25cm(4½x10in)rectangularcaketin,thenlinethebaseandsideswithbakingpaper.

LSlicethecroissants(and/orbrioches)into1cm(½in)thickslicesandarrangealayerofpastriessnuglyoverthebaseofthepreparedtin.Toachieveabettervisualimpact,laythepastriessothelightside(theinsideofthepastry)isfacingdown.Sprinklesomeofthesultanasoverthetop,thencontinuestackingandlayeringtheremainingpastriesandsultanas.

LPutthemilk,butterandvanillabeansinasaucepanovermediumheat.Assoonasthesurfacebeginstoshimmer,removefromtheheat,coverwithalidandsetaside.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggsandsugartogetheruntilacreamy,pale

yellowbatterforms,thenwhiskintherum.Removethevanillabeansfromthehotmilkandreserve.Whiskingcontinuouslyonlowspeed,graduallyaddthehotmilktotheeggmixture—don’tpourtoofastorthesuddenriseintemperaturemightcooktheeggsandcurdleyourcustard.Scrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothecustardandwhiskuntilevenlydispersed.

LPourthecustardoverthecroissantsuntilthemixturereachesthetopofthetin.Setasideforafewminutes,thenuseyourfingertipstopunchholesthroughthepastries,toallowthecustardtosoakintothem.Continuepouringinthecustardinsmalladditionsuntilthepastriesfeelsoft.

LBakefor45minutes,oruntilaparingknifeinsertedintothepuddingcomesoutclean.Removefromtheoven,setasidetocoolfor30minutes,thencoverandrefrigeratefor2hours.Removefromthefridgeanduseaserratedknifetoremoveanyburntordried-uppastryfromthetop.Todothis,runtheknifestraightovertheedgesofthetin,fromonesideallthewaytotheother.Placeaservingplateoverthetinandflipthepuddingover,thenremovethetinandbakingpaper.

LTomakeaglaze,putthejamand2tablespoonswaterinasmallsaucepanandstirovermediumheatuntilmeltedandsmooth.Brushtheglazeoverthepudding.Servewarmwithfreshberriesandyoghurtorthick(double/heavy)cream.Aswithmanycustardcakesandpuddings,thiscanbekeptforupto1weekinthefridgeandtastesdeliciousservedeithercoldorwarmedina180°C(350°F)ovenfor5minutes.

Ardéchoisàlacrèmedemarronsetganacheaucaramelsalé

(Chestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganache)Tofullyappreciatethiscake,youneedtotakeitbacktoitsoriginalsettingintheArdèchearea,

intheRhône-Alpesregion.Thisregionisfamedforitslocalproduce,greenpasturesandrichcuisine—thinkquenelles,gratindauphinois,cheesefondue,froglegs,polentarabbitstew,rissolessavoyardes(puffpastryturnoverswithapearfilling)and,ofcourse,winesandcheeses.FromPaulBocusetotheTroisgrosbrothers,itishometosomeofthemostacclaimedMichelin-starredrestaurantsandis,withoutadoubt,thegastronomiccapitalofFrance.

Asithappens,thewholematernalsideofmyfamilyoriginatesandstilllivesinthisamazingregion.EverytimeIreturntoFrancetovisitmyauntanduncleinabeautifulmedievalvillagecalledCrémieu,IaminvariablytreatedtoabanquetofsomeofthebesttraditionalFrenchfoodandwinesimaginable,fromthemostoutrageouslyrichgratinstoanarrayofincrediblysubtlecheeses.

Now,backtoourchestnutandcaramelcake.Yes,itisadecadentcakewithitsbuttery,earthy,slightlychewycrumbandbitterchocolateglaze,butitispossiblyoneofthebestdessertstoenjoywithfriendsandfamilyasyousitaroundadiningtableinfrontofafireonalong,coldwinter’snight,solvingalloftheworld’sproblems.

Serves10

500g(1lb2oz)tinnedsweetenedchestnutcream(crèmedemarrons),atroomtemperature

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

2eggyolks

40ml(1¼floz)rum

3tablespoonshoney

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour,sifted

1teaspoonbakingpowder

100g(3½oz)candiedchestnuts(marronsglacés),coarselychopped

80g(2¾oz)rawalmonds,coarselychopped

Saltedcaramelganache

80ml(2¾floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

100g(3½oz)darkchocolate(75%minimumcocoasolids),chopped

generouspinchoffleurdeselorothersaltflakes

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreasea25cm(10in)roundcaketin.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthechestnutcreamandbutteronmediumspeedfor3–4minutes,oruntilsmoothandcreamy.Boththechestnutcreamandbuttermustbeatroomtemperature,orthebutterwillhardenandwon’temulsifyproperlywiththechestnutcream.Addtheeggsandeggyolks,oneatatime,allowingeachadditiontobeincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Addtherumandhoney,thenincreasethespeedtohighandbeatforanother5minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Removethebowlfromthemachine,thenfoldinthesiftedflour,bakingpowder,candiedchestnutsandalmondsuntiljustcombined.Don’tbetemptedtomixthebattertoomuchoncetheflourhasbeenadded,orthewaterinthemixturewilldeveloptheglutenintheflour,resultinginacakewithatough,elasticcrumb.

LPourthemixtureintothepreparedcaketin.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolbeforeremovingfromthetin.

LTomakethesaltedcaramelganache,putthecreaminasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoon.Whenthesugarbeginstocaramelise,reducetheheattolowandcontinuecookinguntilthecaramelbeginstofoamandsmoke.Atthisstage,increasetheheattohigh,thenslowlypourthewarmcreamontothecaramel.Beverycarefulwhenyoudothis,asthedifferenceintemperaturewillcreatealotofhotsteam,sokeepyourhandsasfarawayasyoucanfromthecaramel.Oncewellcombined,removefromtheheat.

LPutthechocolateinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcarameloverthechocolate,stirringcontinuously,andcombinewell.Usingahand-heldstickblender,processuntilsmoothandshiny,thenstirinthesalt.

LPlacethecakeonaflatservingplateandpourthechocolateganacheoverthetop,startingfromthemiddleandmakingyourwaytotheside.Ifyoulike,decoratewithchocolatecurlsorcandiedchestnuts.ThiscakeisdeliciouswithaglassofChampagneorsweetwine.

Itisimportantthatyouusechocolatewithahighpercentageofcocoa(lesssugar)toreducethesweetnessofthesaltedcaramelganache.Thesaltwill

balancethebitternessofboththeburntcaramelandchocolate.

Quatre-quartsàlapoireetauxdates

(Dateandpearpoundcakes)Quatre-quarts(literallymeaning‘four-quarters’)istheFrenchversionofapoundcake,

traditionallymadebymixingthesameamountofthefourmainingredients:flour,eggs,sugarandbutter.Thequatre-quarts,alongwithmanyotherclassicdesserts,suchasParis–Brest,éclairsandmacarons,haveenjoyedaresurgenceinpopularityoverthelastdecadeandcannowbefoundinthebestcakeshopsaroundtheglobe.Whilequatre-quartsremainrusticinappearance,theyarenowcustomisedwithanalmostinfinitearrayofaddedflavoursandtextures.

Serves10–12

200g(7oz)pitteddates,finelychopped

100g(3½oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)

110g(3¾oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

2tablespoonshoney

10g(¼oz)bakingpowder

100ml(3½floz)rum

Poachedpear

1pear,preferablywilliams(bartlett)orbeurrebosc

2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

Todecorate

sliveredpistachios

flakedalmonds

choppedglacécherries

LPutthedatesandsultanasinabowl,coverwithwarmwaterandsoakfor1hour.

LMeanwhile,tomakethepoachedpear,peelthepearandsetaside.Putthesugar,cinnamon,vanillabeansand1litre(35floz)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Addthepearandsimmerfor15minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillfirmtothebite.Tocheckifthepeariscooked,insertaparingknifeintothefruit;thefleshshouldbesoftforabout1cm(½in)andthenfirmtothecore.Removefromtheheatandleavethepearinthesyrupuntilcool.Drainthepear,reservingthesyrup.Patdrywithpapertowel,thenhalveandcorethepearandcutinto1cm(½in)pieces.

LPreheattheovento160°C(320°F).Lightlygreaseandflourthree8x15cm(3¼x6in)caketinsorusetwo18cm(7in)roundtinsifyouprefer.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutter,sugar,yoghurtandhoneyuntillightandfluffy.Reducethespeedtolow,thenaddtheeggsoneatatimeandbeatuntilwellcombined.Sifttheflourandbakingpowdertogether,thenaddtothebatterinonego.Drainthedatesandsultanas;addthedrainedfruitandtherumtothebatterandbeatonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.

LHalf-fillthepreparedtinswiththebatter,arrangethree-quartersofthepearsoverthetop,thentopwiththeremainingbatter.Bakefor10minutes,thenopentheovendoorand,usingalightlyoiledknife,cutalinelengthwaysdownthetopofeachcake—thiswillcontrolthecrackingintoanice,straightline.Bakeforanother1hour,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.

LRemovethecakesfromtheoven,brushagenerousamountofthepoachingsyrupoverthetop,thenturnthehotcakesoutofthetinsontoawireracktocool.Whencool,decoratewiththeremainingpears,thepistachios,almondsandglacécherries.

Gâteauàl ’huiled ’olive,aucitronconfitetàlalavande

(Oliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavender)Gâteauàl’huile,yoghurtcake,quatre-quarts…therearedozensofvariationsofwhatare

commonlyknownaspoundcakes,allwiththeirownoriginsandcharacteristics.Thisversionhasgrownexponentiallyinpopularitylargelyduetoincreasedconcernsaboutobesityandcardiovasculardisease.Withnobutter,andthereforenocholesterol,thiscake—longignoredbybakersanywherenorthoftheMediterraneanbasin—seemstohavebecomeaperfect‘guilt-free’indulgence.

Serves8

note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.200g(7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

1teaspoonbakingpowder

½teaspoonfinesalt

100ml(3½floz)full-creammilk

100ml(3½floz)virginoliveoil

50ml(1¾floz)LimoncelloorGrandMarnier

lavenderessence,totaste

Candiedlemons

500g(1lb2oz)caster(superfine)sugar

3lemons,cutinto3mm(1/8in)slices

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,combinetheflour,bakingpowder,sugarandsaltonlowspeed.Lightlybeattheeggs,milk,oliveoilandalcoholinabowluntilcombined.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheeggmixturetothedrymixture,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlasyougo.Oncecombined,increasethespeedtohighandbeatforanother2–3minutes,oruntilemulsified.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours.

LMeanwhile,tomakethecandiedlemons,put500ml(17floz)water,thesugarandvanillabeansinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Addtheslicedlemons,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilthelemonskinistranslucentandsoft.Removefromtheheat,transfertoaheatproofbowlandcoverimmediatelywithplasticwrap.Setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreaseandfloura25cm(10in)roundora10x25cm(4x10in)rectangularcaketin.Drainthelemonslices,reservingthesyrupandvanillabeans.Arrangesomeofthecandiedlemonslicesinaregularpatterntocoverthebaseofthepreparedtin.Coarselychoptheremaininglemons.

LRemovethebatterfromthefridgeandstirin80g(23/4oz)ofthechoppedlemonsandafewdropsoflavenderessence,totaste.Theamountwillvarydependingonthetypeofessenceyouhavebutyouneedtobesparingwithessencesingeneral;theyaremeanttoaddagentlefloraltouch—toomuchwillruinthecake.

LPourthebatteroverthelemonslices,thenbakefor30minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecakecomesoutclean.Removethetinfromtheovenandpour100ml(3½floz)ofreservedlemonsyrupoverthetopofthecake.Refrigerateimmediatelyforatleast3hours.Tounmould,placethecakeina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutes,theninvertontoaservingplate.Thecakeisbesteatenfreshlybaked,althoughittastesdeliciousreheatedthedayafter.

Osmosisisaprocesswherebyalightsolvent(inthiscase,waterandessences)naturallymovesthroughasemipermeablemembraneintoasolventwithahigherdensity(thethicksugarsyrup)untileachsolventreachesthesamedensity.Intheinstanceofourcandiedlemons,theosmosismovementpushestheoilandwateroutofthelemonthroughthepectinmembraneoftheskin,andisreplacedbythethickersyrup(reverseosmosis).Whencandyingwholefruit,thisprocessisrepeatedseveraltimeswithsyrupofever-increasingdensity(moresugar).

SouffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées

(Chartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis)Thiswouldn’tbeatrueFrenchcookbookifitdidn’tincludeatleastonesoufflérecipe.Thisis

quiteawonderfulandimpressive-lookingdessertandIclearlyrememberhowdazzledIwaswhenIfirstlaideyesonthisfluffy,wondrousconcoction.MyparentstookmysisterandmetotheNegresco,oneofthemosticonicandluxurioushotelsontheCôted’Azur.Itwasthemid-seventiesandsoufflésandbombeAlaskareignedsupreme.Iremembersittinginmyvelvet-coveredchair,underahugecrystalcandelabra,whenthewaitergentlyrestedasouffléinfrontofme.Iwasliterallystunned;itwassohighandfluffy—I’dneverseenanythinglikeit.

EvennowthatIunderstandthechemistrybehinditall,makingasouffléremainsatrulymagnificentjugglingact,needingjusttherightbalancebetweenstarchandeggstotrapthesteamnecessaryforittoriseandset,andjusttherighttemperaturesotheeggsdon’tcoagulatetoofast.Butdon’tbenervous;themethodisactuallyverysimpleandalmostfailproofifyoufollowtherecipecarefully.

Serves2

meltedunsaltedbutter,forgreasing

caster(superfine)sugar,fordusting

2eggwhites

Custardbase

250ml(9floz)full-creammilk

1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

3eggyolks

15ml(½floz)Chartreuseliqueur

Strawberrycoulis

150g(5½oz)strawberries,hulledandchopped

½teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

LUsingapastrybrush,lightlygreasetwo250ml(9floz)ramekinsorovenproofcoffeecupswithmeltedbutter,makingsurethatthebrushstrokesgovertically,fromthebottomtothetopofthedish,tohelpthesoufflétorise.Spoonalittlesugarintoeachramekin,turningthedisharoundsothatthesugarcoatstheentiresurface.Tiptheramekinsupsidedownandtapthemtoremoveanyexcesssugar.Placetheramekinsonabakingtrayandsetasideatroomtemperature.

LTomakethecustardbase,putthemilk,vanillabeanandseedsinasaucepanandbringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheat,pourintoabowlandsetasidetocoolfor1–2minutes.

LMeanwhile,putthesugarand2eggyolksinabowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthesugarandeggyolksfor2–3minutes,oruntillightandcreamy,thenwhiskintheflouruntilsmooth.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddthewarmmilkandwhiskuntilwellcombined.Pourthemixtureintoasaucepanandwhiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthemixturecomestotheboilandisthickandsmooth.Removefromtheheatandwhiskintheliqueur,thensetasidefor5minutestocoolalittlebeforewhiskinginthefinaleggyolk(don’taddittoosoonoritwillcurdle).Coverthebowlwithadampclothandsetaside.

LTomakethestrawberrycoulis,putthesugarand100ml(3½floz)waterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Addthechoppedstrawberries,lemonzestandpepper,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor2minutes.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoasmallbowlandwhilestillhot,coverwithplasticwrapandsetasidetocool.Usingastickblenderorfoodprocessor,puréethecoulisuntilsmooth,thentransfertoasqueezebottleorpouringjug.Refrigerateuntilneeded.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Placetheeggwhitesinaspotlesslycleanbowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk(Istronglyrecommendyouwhisktheeggwhitesbyhandtoavoidsplittingtheeggs—seetip),whisktheeggwhitesuntilfoamyandsoft,thengraduallyaddthesugarandwhiskuntilthemeringueformsstiffpeaks.Thesimplestwaytocheckifthemeringueisreadyistoflipthebowlupsidedown.Ifthemeringuedoesn’tdroponyourhead,itisready!Abetterwaytocheckthisistousethewhisktoliftupasmallamountofmeringue;ifitcreatesastiffpeak,itisready.

LUsingalargespatula,foldthemeringueintothecooledcustardinthreeorfourbatches.Afoldingmotionmeansthatyougentlyrotateyourspatulafromthebottomtothetopofthemix.Neverwhackthespatulafromsidetosideorthemixturewillreleasealltheairandwon’triseduringbaking.

LFillthesugar-dustedramekinsallthewaytothetop,makingsurethatnomixturetouchestherim,asthisexposedmixturewillcookinstantlyandstopthesouffléfromrisingevenly.Bakefor10–12minutes,oruntilthetopsaregolden.Don’tbetemptedtoopentheovendoorduringbaking,asyouneedtobuildupsteaminsidetheovenforyoursoufflétoriseproperly.Assoonastheyarecooked,removefromtheovenandpokea2cm(3/4in)holethroughthetop.Pour1tablespoonofcoulisintoeachholeandserveimmediately.

technicaltip

Thepressurepointwhenmakingasouffléisthemeringue.Ifyouunderwhiptheeggs,thesouffléwillnotrise;overwhipthemandyouwillendupwithagrainyandwetmess.Togetitrightyoumustfirstunderstandthatameringuerisesbytheactofpushingairintotheelasticeggprotein(albumen).Asyouwhisk,theproteinmoleculesweavetogether,trappingmoreandmorebubblesofair,creatingashinyelasticfoam.However,thosemoleculescanonlystretchsofar.Overmixingwillcausetheeggsto‘split’or,technicallyspeaking,theproteinstrandswillseparateandlosetheirabilitytoretaintheirwater,inwhichcaseyourmeringuewillbecomegrainyandwateryandwillcollapseduringbaking.Althoughthisseemsalittleparadoxical,thegoldenruleissimple:whenindoubt,alwaysunderwhipyourmeringue.

Gâteauxderizaucarameletàlafleurd ’oranger

(Caramelandorangeblossomricecakes)IfyouhaveeverbeentoFranceandbrowsedthedairysectionofanysupermarket,youwould

havenoticedthehugerangeofrice-basedpuddingsanddesserts.Likemanyoftherecipesinthisbook,ricepuddingsandcakeswerepartofmystapledietasachild.Theyaretheidealpick-me-upforkids(oradultsforthatmatter)ontherun.

Serves10

note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.20g(¾oz)finesalt

180g(6¼oz)arboriorice

150g(5½oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)

LLightlygreaseten185ml(6floz)ramekinsandplacethemonabakingtray.Alternatively,usea2litre(70floz)tallcaketinorkugelhopfmould(becauseyouareliningthebasewithcaramel,don’tuseaspringformtin).

LBring1litre(35floz)waterandthesalttotheboilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addthericeandcookfor4minutes,thendrainandrinseundercoldrunningwater.Thisprocessisdesignedtoridthericeofmostofitsstarch.

LPutthecoldrice,milk,cream,vanillabeansandsultanasinasaucepanandsimmeroverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,for20minutes,oruntiltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Towardstheendofcooking,youwillneedtostirthericecontinuouslytopreventthemixturecatchingonthebaseofthepan.Meanwhile,usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whisktheeggand120g(4¼oz)ofthesugaruntilthickandpale.Whenthericeisready,addtheeggmixturetothericeandcombinewell.Stirintheorangeblossomwaterandsetaside.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Tomakethecaramel,put80ml(23/4floz)waterinasaucepan,thenaddtheremaining200g(7oz)ofsugar.Cookoverhighheatuntilthesugarbeginstocaramelisearoundtheedges,thenreducetheheattolowandcookuntilgolden.Whilethecarameliscooking,useapastrybrushdippedincoldwatertocleanoffanysugarcrystalsonthesideofthepan.Workingquicklyandcarefully,pourthecaramelevenlyoverthebaseoftheramekins.

LScrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothericemixture,thendiscardthebeans.Fillthecaramel-linedramekinswiththericemixtureallthewaytothetop.Coverwithfoilandbakefor15–20minutes,oruntilthericeiscookedthroughanddoesn’twobblewhenyougentlyshakeoneoftheramekins.Removethericecakesfromtheovenandleavetocool,thenrefrigerateovernight.

LThefollowingday,placetheramekinsina200°C(400°F)ovenfor3minutes.Runthebladeofaparingknifearoundtheinsideofeachramekin,theninvertthericepuddingsontoservingplates.Itisimportantthatyoureheattheramekinsinaveryhotoven—dippingtheminboilingwaterwillnotbehotenoughtosoftenthecaramelatthebaseofthepuddings.

Sugar loses sweetnessduring thecaramelisationprocess,but itgainsbitterness.For this recipe, Iprefera lightgoldenorablonde (paleand lightlycooked)caramel,becausethemixtureforthericecakehasalowsugarcontentandwillbenefitfromasweetercaramel.

Tartesettourtes

‘I fyouwishtomakeanapplepiefromscratch,youmustfirstinventtheuniverse.’

CARLSAGAN

Tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches(Chocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberries)

Tartesettourtes

(Tartsandpies)

TartsareoneofthosestaplesofpâtisseriethathaveremainedalmostunchangedsincetheywerefirstdocumentedatthebeginningoftheMiddleAges.Theyareusuallycircular,madeoutofshortcrustorpuffpastry,andareeithersweettreatslayeredwithfruit,filledwithcreamsandsweetcurds,orsavoury,withfillingssuchasmeatsandvegetables.Inthischapter,Ihavealsoincludedafewtourtes(pies),whicharebasicallythesameasatartbutcoveredwithathinlayerofpastry.Again,therearesweetversions,suchastheapplepie,orsavoury,suchastheclassicmeatpie.

WhenIwasachild,tartsseemedtobetheonethingthatIwasfascinatedwith.WheneverIwalkedpastapâtisserie,Iwasalwayssocompletelydazzledbytheseeminglyendlessrangeoftartsandpiesinthewindowdisplay,inallshapesandsizes,coloursandtextures.ThereasonIwassoenthralledwiththemwasprobablybecauseIcouldalmostunderstandhowtheyweremade.Itwasallthere,rightinfrontofme:thethinlyslicedapples,thecaramelisedcreams,theshinyglazedfruit—whatIsawIcouldalmosttaste,unlikethepetitsgâteauxorentremets(multi-layereddesserts),whichweresuchelaborateworksofartthatIfeltIhadnohopeofeverre-creatingthem.

Ihaveincludedalotofrecipesinthischapterbecausetartsandpiesareaperfectcanvastoexploreyourcreativity,improviseoruseleft-overingredients.Thesearesomeofmyfavouritetartsandpies,butfeelfreetostampyourownstyleonanyoftheserecipesandreplaceanyofthefruitsandcreamsbasedonyourlocation,seasonormood.

Pâtes

(Pastries)

Beforetheinventionofpuffpastries,Danishesorcroissants,bakersandcookshadlongbeenusingsweetandsavouryshortcrustpastriestopreparetheirdishes.Thesedoughs,whethertheyarepâtessablées,briséesorsucrées,areallmadeusingthreeorfourcommoningredients:flour,fat,salt,sometimeswithaliquidintheformofeggsorwater,and,inthecaseofthesweetshortcrustandshortbreadpastries,anadditionofsugar.Typically,thetypeofshortcrustyourequirewilldictatethetechniqueappliedtotheseingredients.Fromtheveryshort,butterypâtesabléeusedforpetitsfourstothepâteàpâté(literallymeaning‘shortcrustforpâté’,orterrine),thereisabewilderingarrayofpastryvariationstocaterforeveryneed.Ihavechosenthreebasicpastriesfortherecipesinthisbook.

InFrenchpastrycooking,wemakeadistinctionbetweentwotypesofshortcrustpastries:pâtesablée(similartechnicallytopâtebrisée,whichisusedinsavourypastries)andpâtesucrée.

1.Pâtesablée(shortbreadpastry):

Pâtesabléeisaveryshortandbutterybiscuitorshortbreadpastrythatismadebyamethodcalledsablage,meaningthatyoufirstneedtomixthebutterintotheflourbeforeintroducinganyliquids(ifyouchoosetodoso).Thisprocess‘greases’thegluten(protein)intheflourandstopsitfromabsorbinganyliquidsyoumightadd.Thisinturnstopsthestrandsofglutenfromlengthening,resultinginaverycrumbly(short)pastry.However,atruepâtesablée(madeofbutter,sugar,saltandflour)isachallengetorollforanythingmorethanoneortwotartsatatime,soincommercialkitchensit’smainlyusedinthemanufactureofpetitsfourssecs(biscuits).

Youareprobablyunlikelytowanttomakehundredsoftartsatonetime,soIrecommendusingthispastryformostofthetartsandpiesinthischapter.Tomakethedoughalittlemorepliableandeasiertohandle,Ihaveaddedaneggyolktothebasicrecipe.Thispastryismuchmoredelicateandflavoursomethanpâtesucréeandisincrediblysimpletomake.

2.Pâtebrisée(savouryshortcrustpastry):

Thisisactuallyverysimilartoapâtesabléeinitsmethodology,exceptthatitismadewithoutanysugarandcontainsalotmoreliquids.Themethodof‘sanding’(sablage)thefatandflourtogetherwillensurethatyourdoughremainsbrittle,orshort,andwillreducetheriskofshrinkage,whiletheadditionofliquidwilladdthenecessaryelasticitytomakeiteasytoroll.Bakerstendtofavourthistypeofpastrywhenbakingtartsorpiesfilledwithsoftorliquidingredientssuchasquichesbecause,unlikeflakeddoughssuchaspuffpastry,whichreliesonitsdried-uplayersofpastryfortexture,ashortcrustwillcookwellregardlessoftheviscosityofitsfilling.

3.Pâtesucrée(sweetshortcrustpastry):

Madeusingalmostthesameingredientsaspâtesablée,thispastryismoreelastic,andthereforeidealforthelarge-scalemanufactureoftartandsweetpiebases.Whileitisaloteasiertohandle,ittendstobecrunchierandtougherthanapâtesablée.Thedifferencebetweenthetwopastriesliesnotintheiringredients,althoughtheratioisslightlydifferent,butinthetechniqueused.Forpâtesucrée,youneedtocreamthebutterandsugar,thenaddtheliquid(eggs),andfinishoffbyaddingtheflourdirectlyintothewet

mixture.Becausetheglutenintheflourisdirectlyexposedtoaliquid,itwilldevelopitscharacteristicelasticityandsubsequentdifferenttexture.

Pâtesablée

(Shortbreadpastry)Thiscrumbly,delicatepastryisthefoundationformostofthesweettartsinthischapter.Itcan

bealittlehardtohandle,soifyouarenewtomakingpastry,Isuggestyouaddtheeggyolk.

Makes600g(1lb5oz)

note:Tomakechocolatepâtesablée,substitute60g(2¼oz)oftheflourwithunsweetenedcocoapowder.

1¼teaspoonsfinesalt

200g(7oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

1eggyolk(optional)

Bymixer

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,combinetheflour,saltandbutteronlow speed for 2–3minutes, or until the lumps of butter are evenly dispersed and themixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).

Stopthemixer,scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddthesugarandtheeggyolk,ifusing,andmixuntilwellcombined.Transferthepastrytotheworksurfaceandshapeitintoaball.Coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Whenyouarereadytouseit,transferthecoldpastrytoanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntil thepastryreachesaconsistent, firmtexture.

Byhand

Puttheflourandsaltinamoundonyourworksurfaceandmakeawellinthemiddle.Placethebutterinthewell(photo1)andmixthebutterintotheflourbyrubbingyourhandstogether(2,3)untilthemixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).

Shapethemixtureintoamoundagain(4)andmakeawellinthemiddle.Addthesugar(5),thentheeggyolk(6)anduseyourfingertipsandtheheelofyourhand(7,8)toincorporatethemintothe flourwithoutkneading thedough (fraisage).Note that kneadingwill develop the gluten and

toughenthepastry.

Shapeintoadisc(9),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

cookingtips:

LNeverwanttoforgetthisrecipeagain?Weighanyamountofbutter,divideitbytwotoworkouttheamountofsugar,thencombinetheweightofthebutterandsugartoworkouttheweightoftheflour.

LTomakedeliciouslybutteryScottishshortbread,simplysubstitute10percentoftheflourintherecipeabovewithmaizecornflour(cornstarch)anddonotaddtheeggyolk.Thiswillmakeyourdough

incrediblyshort,butamazinglybutteryandbrittle.

Pâtebrisée

(Savouryshortcrustpastry)Thissavourypastryisverysimilartopâtesablée,exceptitismadewithoutsugarandcontains

moreliquids(eggyolksandwater).Themethodformakingthispastrybyhandisthesameasforpâtesablée.

Makes900g(2lb)

1¼teaspoonsfinesalt

½teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper

250g(9oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

2eggyolks

100ml(3½floz)coldwater

Bymixer

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,combinetheflour,salt,pepperandbutter (photo1) on low speed for 2–3minutes, or until the lumps are evenly dispersed and themixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).

Stopthemixer,scrapedownthesideofthebowl, thenaddtheeggyolksandcoldwater(2)andmixuntilwellcombined(3).

Transferthepastrytotheworksurfaceandshapeitintoaflatteneddisc(4).Coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Whenyouarereadytouseit,transferthecoldpastrytoanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntil thepastryreachesaconsistent, firmtexture.

cookingtips:

LThisdough,asforallshortdoughs,shouldnotbeworkedtoomuch,asthisdevelopstheglutenintheflourandnotonlyincreasesshrinkagebutalsogivesyouatoughfinishedproduct.Mostsavourytartshellswillbefilledwithaliquid,soanyshrinkagewillincreasetheriskthattheliquidwillspillovertheedgeoftheshellandrununderneaththepastry,makingitsoggy.Topreventthis,cookyoursavouryshortcrustpastrywithalittleexcessdoughfoldedoverthetopofthetin.Thisensuresthefillingwon’tspilloverthetopifthepastryshellshrinksduringbaking.Assoonasthetartcomesoutoftheoven,runaknifearoundthetopof

thetintotrimtheexcesscookedpastry.

LYoucanpersonaliseyourtartorpiebyaddingsomefinelychoppedbasilleavesorasmallhandfulofblanched,choppedbabyspinachtothedough.Thisnotonlygivesanadditionallayerofflavourtoyourtartbutalsogivesthepastryshellalovelygreenhue.Youcanalsoadd½teaspoonofyourfavouritespice—whateverbestsuitsthefillingortoppingyouareusing.Addtheherbsandspicesatthesametimeaswhenyouaddtheeggyolksandcoldwater.

Pâtesucrée

(Sweetshortcrustpastry)TherecipeIhavegivenbelowisactuallyapâtesucréelégère,(lightsweetshortcrustpastry)

becauseitcontainsbakingpowder,whichgivesthedoughamorebrittleandmoredelicatetexture.Foratraditionalversionofpâtesucrée,simplyomitthebakingpowder.

Makes850g(1lb14oz)

2eggyolks

75g(23/4oz)almondmeal

1teaspoonfinesalt

1teaspoonbakingpowder(optional)

Bymixer

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthesugarandbutteronlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntiljustcombined.Becarefulnottocreamthemixture.

Add the egg and egg yolks and beat on low speed for another 3–5minutes, regularly scrapingdownthesideofthebowl.Don’tworryifthemixturelooksasifithassplit—theeggsdon’thavetobefullyincorporatedintothemixture.Stopthemixerandreplacethepaddleattachmentwithadoughhook.Addthedryingredientsandmixonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.

Remove the pastry from the bowl and shape it into a disc (the thinner the disc of dough, thequickeritwillfirmup),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Byhand

Put the sugar inamoundonyourwork surfaceandmakeawell in themiddle.Add thebutter(photo1),then,usingtheheelofyourhand,pressthesugarintothebutter(2)untilsmoothandwellcombined.Shapethemixtureintoasmallmoundandmakeanotherwellinthemiddle.Addtheeggandeggyolks(3) anduseyour fingertips tocombinewell (4, 5).Useapastry scraperor flatspatulatohelpscrapethebutterofftheworksurface.Avoidusingyourhandstodothis,asitwill

softenthebuttertoomuch.

Puttheflour,almondmeal,saltandbakingpowder,ifusing,inabowlandcombinewell.Shapethebutterandeggmixture intoa thindisc,put the flourmixtureon top (6) anduse the fraisagemethodwiththeheelofyourhandtopressthetwotogether(7).Liftthepastryofftheworksurfacewithapastryscraper(8),turnitoverandpresstogetheragain(don’teverkneadashortcrustpastryoritwillbecometoughandunpalatable).Shapeintoadisc(9),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

freezingdoughs:

LMostofthetartsinthischapterrequireonlyhalfthequantityofdough,butIhavesuggestedthesequantitiesbecauseitiseasierforthemixertomixwell.Theleft-overdoughfreezesverywell,andcanbeusedforanothertart.Coverinplasticwrapandfreezeforupto3months.

Ifyouaregoingtofreezeanyleft-overdoughforfutureuse,adda500mgVitaminCtabletforeach500g(1lb2oz)offlour.Crushthetabletanddissolveitintheeggswhenmakingthedough.Whilethistipis

morerelevantforyeasteddoughsorawetdoughsuchaspuffpastry,itwillhelpprolongthelifespanoftheglutenandreducetherateofoxidation(formationofbrownspots)intheflour(formoreonfreezingdoughs).

Rolling,liningandblindbaking

Onceyou’veinvestedtimeandlovemakingyourpastry,youwanttomakesureyoutreatitwiththesamedelicatehandwhenrollingitoutandliningthetartshell.

Rollingthepastry

Whilemostpastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking,youcanhelpreducethisbyworkingthepastryas littleaspossiblewhenrollingitout.Overworkingthepastrydevelopstheglutenintheflourandthisnotonlyincreasesthechancesofshrinkage,italsotoughensit.Alwaysrollpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfacefromthecentreoutwards,rotatingthepastry45degreesatregularintervalsratherthanrollingthepinbackandforth.

Ifitiswarminyourkitchenandthedoughbecomestoosofttoworkwithandstickstotheworksurface, roll thepastryoutbetweentwopiecesofbakingpaper, thenrefrigerate itbrieflyuntil itfirmsupalittle.

Liningthetin

Totransferthepastrytothetin,placeyourrollingpinonthebottomendofthepastryandlooselyrollthepastryaroundthepin.Carefullyunrollthepastryintothetin.Ifyouhaverolledoutyourpastrybetweenpiecesofbakingpaper,removethetopsheet,thencarefullyinvertthepastryoverthetarttin(makesureyoucentrethepastryoverthetinwhenyoudothis,becauseit’sdifficulttomoveitonceinthetin),thenpeeloffthepaper.

Oncethepastry is inthetin,quickly liftuptheexcesspastryhangingovertheside,so itdoesn’tbreakoverthesharpedgeofthetin.Dustlightlywithflour(photo1).Totrimthepastry,carefullyrunasmallsharpknifearoundtherimofthetinandcutawaytheexcesspastry(2).

Alternatively,ifyouareusingaliquidfilling,suchasafillingforquiche,leavetheedgeofthepastryslightlyoverhangingthesideofthetintoallowforanyshrinkage.Ifthepastryshrinks,youruntheriskofthefillingseepingovertheedgeofthepastryandunderneaththebase,whichwillmakeitsoggy.Assoonasthecookedtartisremovedfromtheoven,trimaroundtheedgeofthetinusingasmallsharpknife.Cuttingthepastryaftercookingdoeslookabit lesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforehand,butitensuresyouwon’thaveasoggybase.

Refrigeratethepastry-linedtinfor30minutesbeforebaking.Thishelpstheglutenintheflourto‘relax’andwillreducethechancesofshrinkage.

Blindbaking

Toblindbakeyourtartshell,linethebaseandsideofthechilledtartshellwithalargepieceoffoil,

leavingthefoiloverhangingtheside.

Filltothetopwithuncookedrice(3),driedbeansorbakingbeads,thenfoldthefoiloverthetopofthericetoleavethetopedgeofthetartshellexposed(4).Fillingwithweightssuchasricepreventsthepastryfromrisingunevenlyandblisteringas itcooks.Toacertainextent, italsoreducesthepossibilityof thepastry sides shrinking,however, thiswillhavemore todowithhowthepastrywasmadeand rolled.Youcanbuybakingbeads fromkitchenware shops,but I find riceworksbetterasitgivesamoreconsistentcoverage(andit’sconsiderablycheaper).Youcanreusethericeorbeansrepeatedly.

Blindbakethetartshellat180°C(350°F)for20minutes,oruntilthebaseislightgolden.Removethericeandfoilandallowthetartshelltocoolbeforefilling.

cookingtip:

LItisagoodideatoreservesomeofthepastryscrapsincaseyourtartshellcracksalittleduringblindbaking.Ifyourfillingisreasonablydry,acrackwon’tmattertoomuch,butifitisrunny,theliquidwillseepthroughthecrack,resultinginasoggypastrybase.Simplypatchupanycracksonthehottartshellwithasmallpieceofreservedpastryandreturntotheovenfor5minutesorsotoallowittodryout.

Tartericotta-orangeauchocolatetaupastis

(Ricotta,chocolateandpastistart)Thiscombinationofricotta,orangeandchocolateisaclassicallyMediterraneanone—you

mighthavetriedthisfillingincannoli,aSiciliandessertmadeofafine,crunchytubeofpastry,filledwithricottaandvariousflavourcombinations.InProvence,wetypicallyaddeitherorangeblossomwaterorrosewater,aniseorfennelflowerstothericotta.Thisparticularrecipeusespastis,ananise-basedliqueuroriginatingfromMarseille,consumedprofuselybythelocalsasalate-afternoonrefreshment.

Serves8–10

300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

600g(1lb5oz)freshricottacheesedrained(seetip)

150g(5½oz)mascarpone

75g(23/4oz)honey

3eggyolks

150g(5½oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids)

finelygratedzestof2oranges

30ml(1floz)pastisliqueur

driedcitruszest,toserve(optional)

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Thistartcanbecookeddirectlyintherawpastryshellbut,justtobesafe,youcanbeginthebakingprocessbypar-bakingthecrust.Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilthesideofthepastryisgolden.Unlikeafullblindbake,whichisusuallyreservedforverysoftfillings,youwanttostopbakingassoonasthepastryaroundthesideturnsalightgoldenbrown;thebottomshouldstillbeblonde.Removetherice

andfoilandsetasidetocool.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthericotta,mascarpone,sugarandhoneyuntilwellcombined.Withthemotoronlowspeed,addtheeggsandeggyolksoneatatime,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandbeatforanother2–3minutes,oruntilwellcombined.

LUsingalargeknife,finelychopthechocolate(don’tuseafoodprocessortodothisorthechocolatewillmelt).Combinethechocolatewiththeorangezestandpastis,thenaddtothecheesemixtureandbeatfor30seconds.

LReducetheoventemperatureto130°C(265°F).Pourthefillingintothetartshell,thenbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor35minutes,oruntilthefillingstopswobblingwhenthetartisgentlyshaken.PersonallyIfindthebrownskinusuallyfoundoncheesecakesandtartsalittleunpalatable,soIalwaysaimforaveryblondetop.Ifyoufindthatthetopofthetartisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Thisdeflectstheheatandslowsdownthecolouration.

LJustbeforeserving,dustwithalittleicingsugarand,ifyoulike,sprinklewithdriedcitruszest.Thistartisdeliciousservedeitherwarmorcoldwithapeppermintteaorstrongcoffeeinthemorning.Personally,Ipreferitwarm,withagenerousscoopofmascarponeandadrizzleofhoney…butthat’sjustme.

Whenbakingsimple,wholesome food,alwayschoose thebest ingredientsavailable.For this tart, I recommendusinga soft Italian ricottamadeofsheep’smilk,preferablymadefreshfromadelicatessen,drainedovernightinacloth.Alternatively,useanyfreshricotta,butitneedstobedrainedineitherapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oronpapertoweltoremovetheexcessliquid.

Gâteaubasque

(AlmondcustardBasquecake)Forthisverytraditionalcake,wearegoingtoventuretothefarsouth-westofFrance.This

regionisknownastheBasqueCountry,anditsitsdeepinthePyreneesmountains,rightontheborderofSpain.FoodinthispartofFranceusesmanyingredientswethinkofasbeingtypicallyMediterranean,butbecauseofthecolderclimatethecookingtendstobealotricherandearthier.

Thiscakeisagreatexampleofthosetypicallocalcharacteristics,withasimplebutterandalmondcustardsandwichedbetweenacrumblyshortbread.It’sperfectforthoselongwinterevenings,eatenplainorwithafewpreservedcherries,withabowlofhotchocolate,sittinginfrontofthefireplace(or,inmycase,asmallradiantheater).

Serves10

850g(1lb14oz)PâteSucrée

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

Almondcustard

2tablespoonsrum

50g(13/4oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

100g(3½oz)almondmeal

LTomakethealmondcustard,bringthemilkandrumtotheboilinasaucepanovermediumheat.Putthecornflour,almondmealandsugarinaheatproofbowlandcombinewell.Addtheeggsand,usingahand-heldwhisk,beatuntilwellcombinedandcreamy.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddhalfoftheboilingmilktotheflourandeggmixtureandcombinewell,thentransferthemixturetothepanwiththeremainingmilk.Whiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthecustardcomestotheboil,thencontinuewhiskingforanother2minutes.Transferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment.Addthe

butterandbeatonlowspeedfor10minutes,oruntilwarmtothetouch.Placethecustardinabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandsetasideuntilcooltothetouch.

LPreheattheovento160°C(320°F).Lightlygreasean18cm(7in)round,5cm(2in)deeptarttinwitharemovablebase.

LDividethepastryinhalf.Rolloutoneportiononalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick.Usingthetarttinasaguide,cutoutacircleofpastryabout5cm(2in)widerthanthebaseofthetin.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Pourthecustardintothetartshell,fillingittothetop.Makesurethatthecustardisn’ttoohotorthepastrywillmelt.Conversely,ifitistoocold,itwillsetandbecomedifficulttospread.

LRolloutthesecondportionofpastryuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick,thencutoutacircleofpastryabout1cm(½in)widerthanthetopofthetin.Rollthepastryaroundtherollingpin,thenrollitoverthetopofthecustard.Sealthelidtothebasedoughbyrunningtherollingpinafewtimesoverthetopofthecakeuntiltheexcessdoughiscutoff.

LTomakeaneggwash,combinetheegg,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofthecake(seetip).Bakefor30minutes,oruntilgolden.Itiscrucialthatthiscakeisbakedatalowtemperaturetoensurethatthepastrybaseisnicelycooked.Ifthecakebecomestoobrownbeforetherecommendedbakingtime,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Removefromtheoven,setasidetocool,thenrefrigerateforatleast30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Servewarmwithatablespoonofthick(double/heavy)creamormascarpone,andwithasmallglassofCognacinwinter.

Insomeversionsofthistraditionalcake,thetopisscoredinalatticepatternbeforebaking.Todothis,usethebackofaparingknifetogentlyscorethepatternoverthetop(afteryouhavebrushedthecakewitheggwash),takingcarethatyoudon’tcutrightthroughthepastry.

Tartescrèmebrûléeàlalavande

(Lavendercrèmebrûléetarts)Bakedcustardsinoneformoranotherhaveexistedforhundredsofyears,especiallyaroundthe

regionsofSpainandPortugal,longbeforethefirstdocumentedrecipeforcrèmebrûléeintheseventeenthcentury.Acustardismadewithathickener,suchasflourorcornflour,whileacrèmebrûléeismoreakintoacurd,wherethethicknessandtextureiscreatedbythecoagulationoftheeggs.Thisiswhyitrequiresalittlemorecareduringthebakingprocess—youdon’twantyourbrûléemixturningintoanomelette!Todothistartjustice,youreallyneedadomesticblowtorchtoachieveacrunchyandevenlycaramelisedtop.Agrillwilltendtomeltthesugarunevenlyandburnthepastry.

Makes12

8eggyolks

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

900g(2lb)PâteSablée

lavenderessence,totaste

LPuttheeggyolksinaheatproofbowl,addhalfthesugarandwhiskuntilwellcombined.Makesureyoustartwhiskingassoonasyoupourthesugarintotheeggyolks,toavoid‘burning’theeggs.

LPutthemilk,creamandvanillabeansandseedsinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removethepanfromtheheatand,whiskingcontinuously,graduallypourthehotcreamontotheeggmixture.Strainthecustardmixturethroughafinesieveintoajug.Setasidetocool,thenreturnthevanillabeanstothemixtureandrefrigeratefor2hours.

LYouwillneedtwelve7.5cm(3in)diametertartlettinsora25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Usinga12cm(4½in)roundcutter,cutthepastryintotwelverounds.Linethebaseandsideofthetinswiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lineeachpastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden(thecookingtimeisthesameforboththesmalltartsandthesingletart).Removethericeandfoil,thensetthetartshellsasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto90°C(195°F).

LRemovethecustardmixturefromthefridge,removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenaddafewdropsoflavenderessence,totaste.Becarefulnottooverdoit;essencesareveryconcentratedandcanquicklyoverpowerotherflavours.

LToavoidspillage,placethetartshellsonabakingtrayandplaceinthepreheatedoven.Pourinthecustardfilling,beingcarefulyoudon’toverfilltheshellsorthefillingwillrunoverthesideandthepastrywillbecomesoggyunderneath.Bakefor30–40minutes,oruntilthefillingjustwobbleswhenthetartisgentlyshaken.Setasidetocooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigeratefor3hours.Removefromthefridge15minutesbeforeservingandsprinkletheremainingsugarevenlyoverthetarts,includingthepastrycrust.Usingadomesticblowtorch,brownthetopsuntilcaramelised.

Tarteàlapistache,auxfiguesetàl ’eauderose

(Figandrosepistachiotart)TheingredientsusedinbakingandcookingaroundtheMediterraneanbasin—fromFranceto

Greece,SpainandSicily—havebeengreatlyinfluencedbytheinvasionoftheMoroccanMoors,aroundtheeighthcentury.CommonMiddleEasternspices,fruitsandnuts,suchasfigs,saffron,almondandpistachio,havebeenusedforcenturiesinMediterraneancookingbuthaveneverreallybeenassociatedwithwhatisconsideredtraditionalFrenchgastronomy.Despiteitsexoticorientalflavourprofile,thistarthasbecomeaFrenchclassic,fromProvencetoNormandy.

Serves8–10

1teaspoonrosewater,ortotaste

350g(12oz)PistachioCream

8freshfigs

LLightlygreasea25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.ThereasonIrecommendgreasingthetarttinforthisrecipe(whenIusuallydon’t)isbecausethefigsreleasealotofstickyjuiceswhencookingandtheytendtocaramelisearoundthebaseofthetin,makingitimpossibletoremovethetart.

LRolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Stirtherosewater,totaste,intothepistachiocream.Theamountyouusewillvarydependingonthebrandofrosewaterand,ofcourse,yourpersonaltaste.Rememberthatfloralflavourssuchasrose,orangeblossom,lavender,oranyothers,workbestasanaroma;theyaremeanttoaddasubtlelayerofcomplexitytoyourflavours,sodon’tbetemptedtogooverboard.

LSpoonthepistachiocreamintothetartshelluntiltwo-thirdsfull.Thevolumeofthepistachiocreamwillvarydependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Cutthefigsinhalflengthways,thenarrangethem,cutsideup,ontopofthecream.

LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilgolden.Youneedtokeepacloseeyeonthecolourofthistartduringcooking,asthefigjuicesreleasedduringcookingtend

tocaramelisebeforethetartisfullybaked.Ifthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Thisdeflectstheheatandslowsdownthecolouration.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolalittle.Ifyoulike,makeaglaze(seetips)tobrushoverthetart.Servewarmwithmascarponeorwhippedcream,orcoldwithyoghurt.

Tartetatinàlarhubarbe

(Upside-downappleandrhubarbtart)Thisissuchasimple,classictartbutitcanbequitetrickytomake.Notonlydoyouhavetodeal

withtheuncertaintyofwhethertheapplewillsticktothemould,butyoualsohavetothinkaboutoffsettingthesweetnessofthecaramelandcookedapples.Let’sassumethatthefirstpartiscoveredandthetartwillcomeoutinonepiece—becauseitwill—sothentoaddressthesweetnessissue,Ihaveaddedsometart,slightlyacidicrhubarbtobalancetheflavours.So,allhandsondeck,wearedoingit!

Forthisrecipeyouwillneeda25cm(10in)ovenprooffryingpan,aswearegoingtocooktheapplesdirectlyoverahighheat,thenbaketheminthesamevessel.Alternatively,youcanuseashallow,heavy-basedsautépan.

Serves8

note:Startthisrecipe3–4hoursinadvance,toallowtimeforchilling.

3stemsrhubarb,choppedintosmallpieces

12smallgrannysmithapples(seetip)

1tablespoonlemonjuice

500g(1lb2oz)PuffPastry,5singleturns

LMelt40g(1½oz)ofthebutterand2tablespoonsofthesugarinafryingpanoverhighheat.Addtherhubarb,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionallyfor10minutes,oruntiltherhubarbcollapsesintoathickpurée.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcool.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Peel,halveandcoretheapples,thencutinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Sprinkle2tablespoonsofsugaroverthebaseofa25cm(10in)heavy-basedovenprooffryingpanorsautépan.Arrangealayerofappleslicesoverthebaseofthepan,trimmingthecutedgesasneededsotheslicesfitsnugly.Spreadathinlayerofrhubarbpuréeovertheapple,thenrepeatwiththeremainingappleandrhubarb.Theappleswilllosemostoftheirwaterbeforetheystarttocaramelise,sodon’tworryifthevolumelookstoobig.

LMelttheremainingbutterinasaucepan,thenaddtheremainingsugar,thelemonjuiceandvanillabeanseeds(discardthebeans).Combinewell,thenpouroverthetopoftheapples.Coverthepanwithalidandcookoverhighheatforabout10minutesto‘sweat’theapples.Whentheappleshavereleasedtheirjuices,reducetheheattomedium,thenremovethelidandcookuntilthejuiceshaveevaporatedandtheapplesbegintocaramelise.Transferthepantotheovenandbakefor10minutes,oruntiltheapplescanbepiercedeasilywithasmallknifebutarestillfirm.Removefromtheoven,leaveinthepanuntilcool,thenrefrigeratetheapplesinthepanforabout30minutes,oruntilcold.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredsurfaceintoacircleabout3mm(1/8in)thick.Prickalloverwithaforkandthencutoutacircleofpastryroughly5cm(2in)widerthanthediameterofthepan.Removethepanwiththecoldapplesfromthefridge.Makesuretheapplesarecold,becauseanyheatwillmeltthebutterinthepuffpastry.Covertheappleswiththepastry,tuckingtheexcessaroundtheoutsideedgesoftheapples,liketuckinginablanket.Bakeina180°C(350°F)ovenfor20minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Removefromtheoven,setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigeratefor2–3hourstoallowthebutterandsugartocrystallise—thiswillmakeiteasiertoturnout.

LBeforeattemptingthedreadedflip,heatthepanina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutestosoftentheapplesalittle,thensimplyplaceaservingplateontopofthepanandinvertthetartontotheplate.Servewarmwiththick(double/heavy)creamoryoghurtor,evenbetter,flambéedwithCalvados(applebrandy)orrum.

Useafirm-fleshedapplesuchasgrannysmithforthisrecipe,astheyaremorelikelytoretaintheirshapeandtextureduringthebakingprocess.Don’tuseoverlyripefruits;thesewillhavelostsomeoftheirinherenttartnessduringtheripeningprocess,givingyouanoverlysweetandunbalancedfinalproduct—thefleshwillalsobetoosoftwhencooked.

Tartebanane-réglisse

(Liquoriceandbananatart)Forsomeunknownreason,liquoriceisnotaspopularnowasitwasinthe1970s,when

everythingsmeltofliquoriceorwasflavouredwithit,frommytoothpastetothesmellofpipetobacco.Backthen,oneofthecheapestsweetsavailablewasasmallpieceofrootfromtheliquoricetree.Itlookedlikeathin,brownstickanditgavemeaslightbuzzwhenIchewedonit—Ithoughtthismademelookveryrugged,justlikeClintEastwooddidinthemovieAFistfulofDollars.Nowadays,however,Ilikeliquoriceforitsversatilityandcomplexityofflavour.It’sslightlypepperyyetsweetenough,andaddsanamazingdepthofflavourtobothsavouryandsweetdishes.

Serves8–10

5largebananas

juiceof1lemon

Liquoricecustard

80g(23/4oz)softliquorice,thinlysliced

25g(1oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

LTomaketheliquoricecustard,putthemilkandcreaminasaucepanoverhighheatandbringtotheboil.Stirintheliquorice,thenremovefromtheheat,coverandsetasideuntiltheliquoriceisfullydissolved.Alternatively,youcanspeeduptheprocessbyusingastickblender.Whencooledtoroomtemperature,transfertoamediumbowl.Combinethesugarandcornflourinasmallbowl,thenaddtothecooledcreammixtureandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addtheeggsandwhiskuntilwellcombined,thenstrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajugandrefrigerate.

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoil,thensetthetartshellasideuntilcool.

LCutthebananasinto5mm(¼in)slicesandtossinabowlwiththelemonjuicetostopthembrowning.Meltthebutterandsugarinafryingpanoverhighheat.Shakethepanuntilthesugarcaramelisestoalightgoldenbrown,thenaddthebananamixtureandtosstocombine.Donotstirthebananas;instead,holdthehandleofthepanwithbothhandsandtossthebananasoccasionallyuntilgolden.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolslightly.

LPlacethecaramelisedbananaslicesoverthebaseoftartshell,arrangingtheminacircularpattern,startingontheoutsideedgeoftheshellandtightlyoverlappingeachslicewithanotheruntilyoureachthestartingpoint.Continueinthismanner,workingincirclesuntilyoureachthemiddleofthetart.

LToavoidspillage,placethetartshellonabakingtrayandplaceintheoven.Slowlypourthefillingoverthebananas,stoppingjustbelowthetop.Don’toverfillthetartshell,asthepastrymayshrinkalittleduringbakingandthefillingwillrunoverthesideoftheshell,causingittobecomesoggyunderneath.Bakefor30minutes,oruntilthefillingwobblesslightlywhenthetartisgentlyshaken.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Clafoutisauxcerises

(Cherryclafoutis)ClafoutisoriginatesfromtheLimousinregionofFranceandistypicallymadewithcherries,but

therearenumerousversionsthroughoutmanypartsofFrance.InProvence,forexample,itisknownasaflaugnarde,andisusuallyfilledwithapples,apricotsorfreshfigs.WhenmysisterandIvisitedmygrandmotherduringthesummerholidays,sheusedtobakethischerryclafoutisforus(aswellashalfthechildreninthevillage)forlegoûter,amid-afternoonpick-me-upsnack.

Serves8–10

300g(10½oz)freshblackcherries,pitted

LPutthemilk,creamandvanillabeansinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat,thenremovefromtheheat.Removethevanillabeansandusethebackofasmallknifetoscrapealongthelengthofeachcutsidetoremovetheseeds.Addtheseedstothehotmilkanddiscardthebeans.

LPutthesugarandflourinabowlandstiruntilwellcombined(thiswillreducethechanceofthebatterbecominglumpy).Addtheeggsand,usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskuntilsmooth.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddthehotmilkmixturetotheeggmixtureuntilwellcombined.Coverwithplasticwrap,setasidetocool,thenrefrigerateforatleast1hour.Anybattermadewithflourneedstorestbeforebakingtoallowtheglutentorelax.Thiswillreducethechewinessofthefinalproduct,andgivesthestarchtimetoabsorbhumidityandhelpitbloom(swell)properlyduringcooking.

LMeanwhile,lightlygreasea25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Idon’tusuallysuggestthatyouneedtogreasethetin,butthisisaverywetmixtureandthecustardmayleakalittleandsticktothetin.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethe

baseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Scatterthecherriesoverthepastrybase.Don’tbetemptedtoaddmorethanthis,asthecherriesreleasetheirjuicesduringbakingandtoomanywillmakeyourpastrysoggy.Pourthecustardoverthecherries,stoppingabout2mm(1/16in)fromthetop.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Placeonawirerackandleavetocoolalittlebeforeremovingfromthetin.Clafoutisisbestservedatroomtemperatureandtastesevenbetterthedayafter.

servingsuggestion

Tobalancethetartnessofthebakedcherries,servethisclafoutiswithalightlysweetenedwhippedcream—add1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugarforevery100ml(3½floz)ofwhippingcream.Thefatinthecreamwillalsohelptosoftenthetasteandimprovetheoverallflavouroftheclafoutis.

Tartemeringuéeaucitronetaubasilic

(Lemonandbasilmeringuetart)Tartsfilledwithlemonhavebeenaroundforcenturies,butitwasn’tuntilthenineteenth

centurythataSwissbakerhadtheideaoftoppingthepiewithmeringue.Thisverycleverideabalancesthetartnessofthelemonswithsweetnessofthemeringue,whilethecrunchypastrybaseaddsatexturallayer.InthisrecipeIhaveaddedbasil,bringingintonationsofpepper,mintandanise,whichsoftensthesweetnessofthemeringueandhelpstorefinetheslightlyharshflavourofthelemoncurd.

Serves8–10

note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

200g(7oz)eggwhites(about6–7)

300g(10½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted

100g(3½oz)basilleaves

icecubes

140ml(43/4floz)lemonjuice

1vanillabean,halvedlengthways

190g(63/4oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1tablespoonmaizecornflour(cornstarch)

1eggyolk

240g(8½oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

LTomakethecurd,bringasaucepanofwatertotheboil,addthebasilandreturntotheboil.Removethebasilwithaslottedspoonandquicklyplaceonabedofice.Whentheleaveshavecooled,placeinablenderandblendintoafinepurée.Transfertoabowl,addthelemonjuiceandvanillabean,thencoverandrefrigerateovernight,toallowtheflavourstodevelop.

LThefollowingday,putthesugarandcornflourinabowlandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addthe

eggsandeggyolkandcombinewell.Removethevanillabeanfromthelemonandbasilmixture,thenusethebackofaknifetoscrapealongthelengthofeachcutsidetoremovetheseeds.Addtheseedstotheeggmixtureandcombinewell.Discardthevanillabeans.Addthelemonandbasilmixturetotheeggmixture,then,usingastickblender,processuntilsmoothandwellcombined.

LStrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandplaceoverabain-marie(seetips).Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthemixtureuntilthickandopaque(about70°C/160°F).Atthistemperaturetheeggyolkiscookedandthecornflourhasfullygelatinised.Removethebowlfromtheheat,addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoblenduntilsmoothandcreamy.Coverthesurfacewithplasticwrap,leavetocoolslightly,thenrefrigerate.

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.

LFillthetartshellwiththecoldcurdandspreadthetopwithaspatulauntilsmooth.Makesurethecurdiscoldoryourpastrywillbecomesoggyandloseitstexture.Refrigeratewhileyoumakethemeringue.

LTomakethemeringue,useanelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmenttowhisktheeggwhitesonhighspeedjustuntilstiffpeaksbegintoform.Donotoverwhipthemoryouwillendupwithalumpytexture.Addhalftheicingsugar,reducethespeedtomediumandwhiskfor30seconds,thenaddtheremainingicingsugarandwhiskforanother1minute.

LUsingaspatula,spreadthemeringuegenerouslyoverthetart.Don’tmakethemeringuetooflat;usethespatulatomakesmallpeaksinthemeringue.Usingadomesticblowtorch,lightlybrownthemeringue.Alternatively,placethetartunderapreheatedgrilluntilthetipsofthemeringuehavecaramelised.Thetartisbestservedonthedayofmaking.Ifyoulike,servewithacoulisoflightlypepperedraspberries.

Youcanmakethecurdusingotherjuices,butyouneedtomaintainagoodbalancebetweenthecurdandthesweetnessofthemeringue,sosticktotartoracidicfruitssuchaspineapple,passionfruitoranyothercitrusfruit.

TarteamandineauxpoiresetàlaWilliamine

(Pearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueur)Youjusthavetolookatanycookingshow,thedisplaywindowofanypâtisserieorany

cookbookonbakingtorealisehowpopularthistartis.Itencompasseseverythingthatatartshouldbe:rusticandappetising,veryeasytomake,andstilldeliciousorevenbetterthedayafter,forbreakfast(asistheFrenchway!),withacupofcoffee.Thebeautifulbalancebetweenthedifferenttexturesofsoftfruit,fluffyalmondcreamandcrumblyshortcrusthaveensuredthatthistarthasremainedunchangedformorethana100yearsandremainsoneofmyfavouritetartstomakewhencookingathome.

PearandalmondtartsarecommonlycalledtarteBourdaloue,eventhoughtheoriginalversionwasactuallymadewithpoachedapricots.AFrenchbakeriscreditedwithitscreationattheendofthenineteenthcentury.HisbakerywassituatedonastreetcalledRueBourdaloue…andhencethename.

Serves8–10

250g(9oz)AlmondCream

Poachedpears

2–3william(bartlett)pears(seetip)

Liqueursyrup

40ml(1¼floz)Williaminepeareau-de-vie,oranypear-basedliqueur

LTomakethepoachedpears,putthesugar,vanillabeansand500ml(17floz)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Peelthepears,thenaddtothesyrup,coverthepanwithalidandsimmergentlyfor15minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillfirmtothebite.Becarefulnottoovercookthepears;youneedtofeelabitofresistancewhenpiercingthemwithaknife.Drainandcool,thencutthepearsinhalflengthwaysandremovethecoresbutkeepthestemofoneofthepearsattached.

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Tartsfilledwithalmondcreamdon’tneedthepastrytobeblindbaked.Spoonthealmondcreamintothepastryshelluntilaboutthree-quartersfull.Thevolumeofthealmondcreamwillvary,dependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Cuteachpearhalfintofourwedgesandarrangeontopofthealmondcream.Placeawedgeofpearwiththestemattachedinthecentreofthetart.Bakefor40minutes,oruntilgolden.

LMeanwhile,tomaketheliqueursyrup,put250ml(9floz)water,thesugarandpearliqueurinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Assoonasthetartcomesoutoftheoven,brushasmallamountofsyrupoverthepears,butnottoomuchorthetartwillgosoggy.

LYouhaveprobablyeatenthistartbefore,soyoumayhaveyourpreferredwaytoserveit.Iamnotabigfanofeatingitwarm,becausetheflavourofthepeartendstogetoverpoweredbythesweetnessofthealmondcream,soIliketoserveitcold,perhapswithastrongcoffeeorevenaglassofcrispwhitewine.

Williams(bartlett)pearsareharvestedinsummerandarethemostpopularpearusedinbakingbecauseoftheirsweetanddense,smoothflesh.Ifyouareusingbutterypears(suchasbeurrebosc)orwaterypears(suchasthepopularnashipear),bakethemdirectlywithoutpoaching.

Tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches

(Chocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberries)So,you’vegotguestsarrivinginafewhoursandyouneedastunningdessert.Don’tlookany

further!Whilemanypeoplelikeraspberriesandmostpeoplelovechocolate,Icanguaranteethateveryonewillloveachocolateandraspberrytart.

Althoughtherecipeforthistartisquitesimple,thereisoneimportantthingyouneedtoknow:tartnessdoesnotmitigatebitterness.BythisImeanthatthetartnessoftheraspberrieswillonlyexacerbatethebitternessofachocolatethathasahighpercentageofcocoa(lesssweet),sodon’tbetemptedtofallintothetrapofbuyingabitterchocolatesimplybecauseitisoftenmarketedasbeingabetterchocolate.Eachtypeandvarietyofchocolatehastobeconsideredaccordingtothetasteandflavourrequirementsoftherecipe.Whenusingatartoracidicingredient,suchastheraspberriesusedhere,alwaysincreasethesugarcontentslightlybyusingaslightlysweeterchocolate(onewithalowerpercentageofcocoa),tobalanceouttheflavours.

Serves10

300g(10½oz)ChocolatePâteSablée

250g(9oz)freshraspberriesorstrawberries

100g(3½oz)pistachios,sliveredorcoarselychopped

Chocolateganache

250g(9oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids),chopped

90g(3¼oz)honey

300ml(10½floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor10minutes,thenremovethericeandfoilandbakeforafurther10minutes,oruntilthebaseis

golden.Leavetocool,thenrefrigeratewhileyoumakethefilling.

LTomaketheganache,putthechocolateandhoneyinasmallheatproofbowl.Putthecreaminasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Slowlypourthehotcreamoverthechocolateandhoneyandcombinewellwithaflatspatula—donotuseawhisk(seetip).

LStandtheganacheatroomtemperatureuntilcooltothetouch.Addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoprocessuntilsmoothandemulsified.Pourtheganacheintothecoldtartshellandleaveatroomtemperaturefor15minutes,oruntiltheganachethickens.Decoratethetopwithberries,sprinklewiththepistachios,thenrefrigerateuntilreadytoserve.Removethetartfromthefridge15minutesbeforeservingandservewithmascarponeorthick(double/heavy)cream.

Donotuseawhiskwhenmakingtheganache.Traditionalganachecreamsareemulsionsoffat(cocoabutterandbutter)andliquid(cream)andshouldnot be aerated.Whipped ganaches are technically a verydifferent type of cream; these are popular amongprofessional pastry chefs as a filling forchocolatebonbons.

Conversationauxorangesépicées

(Almondandspicedorangetart)Oneofmyfirstjobsasanapprenticechefwastomaketheconversation,notasatartasit’s

typicallyseen,butasaslice.Irememberbeingamazedatthemirror-likefinishofthebakedroyalicingandthecontrastbetweenthelightpuffpastry,thefluffyalmondcreamandcrumblyshell.Thetraditionalrecipefortarteconversationisactuallyalittletooheavyandsweetformyliking,soIhaveaddedspicedorangemarmaladetooffsetsomeofthesweetness,andorangeblossomwatertoaddsomefloralnotes.Ifyoudon’twanttomakethemarmalade,useagood-qualityready-mademarmaladeorraspberryjam.

Serves8–10

500g(1lb2oz)PuffPastry,5singleturns

2–3teaspoonsorangeblossomwater,ortotaste

Marmalade

2tablespoonsChinesefivespice

3teaspoonsfinesalt

2oranges,washed

Royalicing

1eggwhite

140g(5oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar

fewdropsoflemonjuice

LTomakethemarmalade,put1litre(35floz)water,200g(7oz)ofthesugar,fivespiceandsaltinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addthewholeoranges,thencoverthepanandsimmeroverlowheatfor35minutes,oruntiltheorangescrackopen.Draintheorangesanddiscardthecookingsyrup.Whencool,cutopentheorangesandremovetheseeds.Placetheunpeeledorangesinafoodprocessorwiththeremainingsugarandprocessuntilaroughpuréeforms.Transfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateuntilcold.

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3mm(1/8in)thick.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Reserveandrefrigeratetheoffcutstodecoratethetart.

LStirtheorangeblossomwaterintothealmondcreamuntilwellcombined,thenhalf-fillthetartshellwiththealmondcream.Thevolumeofalmondcreamwillvarydependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Coverthealmondcreamwithalayerofthecooledorangemarmaladeandrefrigeratewhileyoumaketheroyalicing.

LTomaketheroyalicing,useanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmenttobeattheeggwhiteonlowspeedfor30seconds,thenslowlyaddtheicingsugar,waitingforittodissolvefullybeforeaddingmore.Whenthemixturefirmsup,addafewdropsoflemonjuicetosoftenittoaspreadableconsistency.

LCoverthemarmaladewithathinlayerofroyalicing,about2mm(1/16in)thick.Todecoratethetartwithalatticedesign,cutthereservedpastryoffcutsinto1cm(½in)widestrips.Whileyoucangetquitetechnicalabouttheactuallatticework,youcansimplylayparallelstripsofpastryacrossthetart,spacingthemabout3cm(1¼in)apart,thenrotatethetart45degreesandrepeattheprocess.Refrigeratethedecoratedtartfor30minutes.

LMeanwhile,preheattheovento190°C(375°F).Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilgolden.Ifthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Coolalittlebeforeremovingfromthetin.Serveatroomtemperaturewithcrèmefraîche.

Servingacakeortarteitherwarmorhotwillexacerbatethe‘feeling’ofsweetness.Asarule,whenyoubakeacakewithahighsugarcontent,itisbettertoserveitcold,preferablywithanunsweetenedyoghurt,crèmefraîcheorsourcream.Thefattinessandsournessoftheyoghurtorsourcreamwillfurtherreducetheperceivedsweetness.

Tarteauxblettesetauxraisins

(Silverbeetandraisintart)Silverbeetpiesandtarts,eithersavouryorsweet,arespecialtiesfromNice,acitylocatedonthe

Côted’AzurinthesouthofFrance.Iwasbornthere,aswasmydadandhisfather,andwasbroughtuponasteadydietoflocalspecialties,suchasPissaladière,soccaniçoise(chickpeacrepe)andthissilverbeettart.Ihavechosentofeaturethesavouryversionofthistortadeblea(asit’scalledinthelocaldialect)becauseithasabroaderappealthanitssweetercousin,andbecauseitisyetanotherexampleofhoweventhesimplestandcheapestingredients,whenbakedproperly,candeliveramazingresults.

Serves6–8

225g(8oz)PâteBrisée

700g(1lb9oz)silverbeet(Swisschard)leaves

2teaspoonsvegetablestock(bouillon)powder

1teaspoonfinesalt

60g(2¼oz)whitecamarguericeoranyround-grainrice,suchasarborio

2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil

1onion,finelychopped

2garliccloves,finelychopped

120g(4¼oz)speckorsmokedbacon,diced

100g(3½oz)ham,diced

100ml(3½floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

100ml(3½floz)milk

½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

40g(1½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated

40g(1½oz)parmesancheese,grated

85g(3oz)raisinsorsultanas(goldenraisins)

½teaspoongroundblackpepper

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthe

doughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LMeanwhile,cookthesilverbeetleavesinalargesaucepanoflightlysaltedboilingwaterfor3minutes.Drainandrefreshinabowloficedwatertostopthecookingprocess.Placetheleavesinacleanclothandsqueezeoutasmuchwateraspossible.Thisprocessiscalledblanchingandstopstheleavesoxidisingandturningbrown.

LPutthestockpowderinasaucepanwith500ml(17floz)waterandthesaltandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Stirintherice,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilthericeisaldente.Drainwellandsetaside.

LHeattheoliveoilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously,untilgolden,thenaddthespeckandhamandcookforanother5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

LPutthecream,milk,eggsandnutmeginabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieve,thenaddtherice,silverbeet,cheeses,raisinsandspeckmixture.Addthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.

LPourthefillingintothetartshell,smooththetop,thencookonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Coolonawirerack.Thistartisusuallyservedcoldoratroomtemperatureinsummer.Itisalsodeliciousservedthenextday;simplyreheatinawarmovenforafewminutes.

Asisthecaseformanytartsfilledwithaliquid,itisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascookedbecausethepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking.Cuttingthepastryafterwardsdoeslookalittlelesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforecooking,butitensuresthatnoneofthefillingseepsovertheside,whichinvariablyleadstoasoggy,rawpastrybase.

Tourteauboeufbourguignon

(Beefburgundypie)BoeufbourguignonisanotherexampleofatraditionalFrenchpeasantdishthathasmanagedto

finditswayontothemenusofmanyMichelin-starredrestaurants.Tenderisingcheapcutsofmeatbycookingthemslowlyisanage-oldmethodthathasbeenrefinedandpolishedovertime,andopenedthedoortonewtrends.‘Nosetotail’,‘paddocktoplate’or‘slowcook’arepopulartermsincookingcirclesnowadays,asmeatcutsonceconsideredofsubstandardquality,suchasbeefcheeks,oxtailsorporkbelly,arebeingservedatpremiumpricesacrossthetablesofsomeofthebestrestaurantsaroundtheworld.

Ofallthosestews,boeufbourguignonreignssupremeinFranceandisoneofthestaples—alongwithcrèmebrûléeandsteakfrites—youarelikelytofindineverycaféandbistroacrossthecountry.Servethepiewithacrispleafsaladorusethefillingasatoppingforabowlofpasta.

Serves6

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

450g(1lb)PâteBrisée

Filling

50g(13/4oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

300ml(10½floz)goodqualityredwine

2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil

100g(3½oz)smokedbacon,diced

250g(9oz)buttonmushrooms,diced

2smallcarrots,diced

1½celerystalks,diced

1tablespoontomatopaste(concentratedpurée)

500g(1lb2oz)beefchucksteak,diced

125ml(4floz)beefstock,plusextraifneeded

5thymesprigs

1bay(laurel)leaf

1teaspoongroundblackpepper

2teaspoonsfinesalt

LTomakethefilling,putthecornflourand100ml(3½floz)ofthewineinasmallbowlandstiruntilsmooth,thensetaside.

LHeattheoliveoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addtheonion,baconandgarlictothepanandstiruntilthemixturebeginstobrown.Addthemushroomsandcarrotsandstiruntilgolden,thenaddalltheremainingingredientsexceptthecornflourmixture.Thereshouldbeenoughliquidtojustcoverthebeef;ifnot,simplyaddmorestock.Stirtocombinewell,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,for1hour.Itisimportanttoconstantlycheckthatthemeatissubmergedinthejuices;ifitappearstoodry,addmorestockandcontinuecooking.After1hour,checkthebeefbypressingonepieceofmeatbetweenyourfingers—ifitdoesn’tbreakaparteasily,cookforanother10minutesandthencheckagain,toppingupwithmorestockifnecessary.

LWhenthemeatistender,addthecornflourmixtureandcook,stirringcontinuouslyuntilthesaucebeginstoboilandthicken.Removefromtheheat,checktheseasoning,thenpourthebeeffillingoveraflattraywithsidesorintoalargebowl.Coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours,oruntilcool.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,puttheeggs,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.

LDividethepastryinhalf,thencovertheremaininghalfinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linea25cm(10in)pieortarttinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Pourthecooledfillingintothepieshell.

LRemovetheremainingportionofpastryfromthefridgeandrolloutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick.Brushalittleeggwasharoundtherimofthepieshell.Rollthepastryupontoyourrollingpinandplacethepastrylidontopbyrestingonesideofthepastryontheedgeofthetinandthenrollingitgentlyoverthetopofthefilling,takingcarethatairdoesn’tgettrappedunderneath.Gentlypinchthedoughedgesbetweenyourthumbandindexfingerstomakeagoodsealaroundthepie.Runasharpknifearoundtheoutsideedgeof

thetintoremovetheexcesspastry.

LBrushagenerousamountofeggwashoverthetopofthepieanddecorateitbygentlyscoringageometricdesignintothetopwiththebackofaknife(beingcarefulnottocutallthewaythroughthepastry).Useaskewerorsmallknifetomakeaholeinthecentretoallowthesteamtoescape.Placethepieonabakingtrayandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30–40minutes.Tocheckifthepieisready,liftitupslightlywithaknifetocheckthebase—thepastryshouldbegoldenbrown.Servehot.

Tourtesdepouletauxpoireauxetaulaurier

(Chicken,leekandlaurelpies)Leeks,alongwithartichokes,areoneofmyfavouritevegetables.Theyaresubtleandsweet

enoughtobeusedasadiscreetaccompanimenttothemostdelicateingredients,suchasscallopsorlobsters,buthaveenoughearthinessandbodytobeusedjustassuccessfullyinrusticpiesandstews,orasagarnishformeatssuchaslambandbeef,aswellasoffalandgamemeat.

Chickenandleekpieflavouredwithafewbay(laurel)leavesisoneofthefewtraditionalprovincialrecipesthatyouwillroutinelyfindineventhemostup-markettraiteur(delicatessen)ineverycityaroundFrance.Itistheidealmealtowarmyouupduringthelongwinternights.

Serves6

2leeks,whitepartonly,cutinto1cm(½in)thickslices

2tablespoonsmaizecornflour(cornstarch)

2tablespoonsoliveoil

3bay(laurel)leaves

500g(1lb2oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighfillets,cutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces

1teaspoonfinesalt

50ml(13/4floz)whitewine

450g(1lb)PâteBrisée

1eggyolk

LPuttheleekslicesinacolanderandrinsethoroughlyunderrunningwater.Patdrywithacleanclothorpapertowel.Placethecreamandcornflourinasmallbowlanduseaforktowhiskuntilsmoothandwellcombined.

LHeat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinalargefryingpanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addtheleek,onion,garlic,bayleavesandpepper,thenreducetheheattomediumand

stircontinuouslyuntiltheleekislightgolden.Transfertoabowlandsetaside.

LHeattheremainingtablespoonofoilinthepanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addthechickenandsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthechickenisgoldenallover.Addthewineandstir,scrapingthebaseofthepantoremoveanycookedpieces.Reducetheheattomedium,addtheleekmixtureandcombinewell.Stirringcontinuously,addthecreammixture,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilreducedandthickened.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcool,withoutcovering.

LYouwillneedsix7.5cm(3in)diametertartlettinsora25cm(10in)tarttinwitharemovablebase.Dividethepastryinhalf,thencoveronehalfinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Rollouttheremainingpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Usinga12cm(4½in)roundcutter,cutthepastryintosixrounds.Linethebaseandsideofthetinswiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetins.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellswithfoil,makingsurethesideofeachshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Pourthecooledfillingintothepieshells.

LTomakeaneggwash,puttheeggs,eggyolkandapinchofsaltinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.Removetheremainingportionofpastryfromthefridgeandrollitoutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout2mm(1/16in)thick.Usingarulerandknife,cutthepastryinto1cm(½in)widestrips,touseforthelatticetop.Brushalittleeggwasharoundtherimofthepieshell,thenusethestripstomakealatticepatternoverthetop.Cutthestripstosizebyusingyourthumbtopushthemontotheedgeofthetarttobreakofftheexcess.

LBrushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofthelattice.Placethepiesonalargebakingtrayandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Servehot,withagreenleafsaladandaglassofwine.

Whencookingpiesandstews,alwaysleavetheherbsandleavesforthedurationofthecookingprocess.Ittakesalongtimeforthearomaticoilstobreakdownanddissipatethroughthesauce,especiallyifyouareusingdriedherbs.

Tarteaujamboncruetauroquefort

(Bluecheeseandprosciuttotart)Theproblemofinvitingfriendsoverfordinnerwhenyouareapastrycheforbakeristhatyour

gueststendtohavethepreconceivedideatheyaregoingtobetakenonamagicalgastronomicaljournée,whenthefactis(andIcanonlytalkformyselfhere)theirexpectationsareboundtoexceedmyskillswhenitcomestocookinganythingsavoury.

Mysolutionissimplytosticktothebasics,usethebestandfreshestingredients,andtrytoidentifytwoflavoursthatworkperfectlytogether,suchasbluecheeseandmeat,asusedhere.Thefollowingrecipeisahomagetothisperfectcombinationofsaltyandsharpflavours,withthecheeseprovidingsubtlehintsofpepperandhazelnuts.Thisismyideaofaperfectentrée.

Serves6–8

finesalt,totaste

150g(5½oz)roquefortcheese,finelychopped

250g(9oz)prosciutto,finelychopped

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Asisthecaseformanytartsfilledwithaliquid,itisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascookedbecausethepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPutthecream,milk,eggsandnutmeginabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajug,thenaddthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.Whenseasoningthefillingforanysavourytart,considerthesaltcontentofyouringredientsandadjusttheamountofsaltaccordingly.

LScatterthegruyère,roquefortandprosciuttoevenlyoverthebaseofthetartshell.Placeonabakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoven,thencarefullyfilltheshelltothetopwiththeeggmixture.

LBakethetartfor40minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Cuttingthepastryaftercookingitdoeslookabitlesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforehand,butitensuresthatnoneofthefillingseepsovertheside,whichinvariablyleadstoasoggy,rawpastrybase.Servewarm,perhapswithaglassofchilledroséandacrispgreensalad.

Youcanreplacetheroquefortwithanyotherbluecheesemadeofsheep’smilk,suchasgorgonzolaorstilton.Asageneralrule,subtlemeatssuchasvealorrabbitwillworkbetterwithyounger,sweeterbluecheesesuchasgorgonzoladolce,whilegamemeatordriedmeatswillworkbetterwithdarker,olderandmorepronouncedcheesessuchasroquefortorgorgonzolapicante.

Quichelorraine

Itwouldbedifficulttooverlookthisclassictartinthelonglistofso-called‘Frenchspecialties’andwhileitsnamesuggestsitoriginatedfromLorraine,aFrenchregioninthefarnorthofFrance,thefirstversionofaquichewascalledkuchenandwasGermaninorigin.Themethodofaddingvegetables,meatsandcondimentstoacurdmadeofeggsandcreamcookedinpastrydatesbackover500yearsandwasaverypopulartechniqueusedthroughoutAnglo-Saxongastronomy.

Thisversatileanddeliciousdishcanbeeatenforbreakfast,lunchordinner,orevenservedascanapésatacocktailparty.

Serves6–8

finesalt,totaste

250g(9oz)speckorsmokedbacon,cutinto1cm(½in)pieces

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Unlikefillingsforsweettarts,whichareoftenfirmer,fillingsforsavourytartsareoftenrunnyandmorelikelytospillovertherimanddowntheside,especiallyasthepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking,soitisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascooked.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPutthecream,milkandeggsinabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajug,thenaddthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.Whenseasoningthefillingforanyquiche,considerthesaltcontentofyouringredientsandadjusttheamountofsaltaccordingly.

LHeatasmallfryingpanoverhighheatandaddthespeck,withoutaddinganyextrafat.Stircontinuouslyuntilgolden,thenremovewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Spreadthespeckevenlyoverthetartshell,thenscatterwiththegruyère.Placeonabakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoven,thencarefullyfilltheshelltothetopwiththeeggmixture.Fillingtartsalreadysittinginsidetheovenmeansyouwon’tneedtoprecariouslywalkaroundthekitchenbalancingaquichefullofliquidcream.

LBakethequichefor40minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Servecoldorwarm.Thequichecanbestored,coveredinplasticwrap,inthefridgefor3–4days.

Here’saneasyformulaformakingaquichewhenyoucan’tfindtherecipe:1+1+1.Thebasicrecipeconsistsof1partmilk,1partcreamand1partegg.Whateverelseyouaddisuptoyou.

Pâteàchoux

‘Eventhesimplestofdessertsmadeusingthesmallestamountofskillwillalwaysbereceivedasthegrandestofgestures.’

Petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)

Pâteàchoux

(Chouxpastry)

IrememberthefirsttimeIevermadechouxpastry.IwasonlyafewweeksintomyapprenticeshipwhenIwasgiventhetaskofmakingpâteàchoux—Iwillneverforgetthatmomentofsheerpanic.NotonlydidIhavetomakethispuzzlingpastry,butIalsohadtofacethechallengingtaskofpipingitintoanarrayofdifferentshapesandsizes.EversinceIwasachild,Ihadalwayswonderedhowanyonemadethosedelicatelittlepuffs,sothinandlight,pumpedfullofair.Tometheyweremoreaboutengineeringthancookingandwhilethisisn’tquitethecase,chouxpastryisagoodillustrationofhowthechemistryofeachingredientworkstogetherinbaking,reinforcingthepointthatagoodbakerisfirstandforemostatechnician.

TheinventionofanearlyformofchouxpastryiscreditedtotheverycreativepastrychefsattheFrenchcourtofCatherinedeMediciinthesixteenthcentury,whowerealsoresponsiblefortheamaretti,theancestorofthefamousmacaron.Overtime,therecipeforchouxwasimprovedupon,andfinallycementeditsplaceinFrenchgastronomyintheearlynineteenthcenturywhenthefamouspastrychefMarie-AntoineCarêmecreatedthecroque-en-bouche(‘crunchinthemouth’),orcroquemboucheasit’salsoknown.

Unbeknowntomostamateurbakers,chouxpastryisactuallyanamazinglysimpleconcoctiontomakeathome.Itisalsoveryversatileandcanbeturnedintoawiderangeofpastries—froméclairstocroquembouche(baked),churrostodoughnuts(fried),andevensavourydishes,suchasthefamousParisiangnocchi(poached).

Pâteàchoux

(Chouxpastry)Therearejustthreeeasystepswhenmakingchouxpastry:boiltheliquidswiththebutter,dryit

upwiththeflour,thenincorporatetheeggs.Itisalmostfailproof,providingyoufollowtherecipeprecisely—therealchallengeliesinthebaking.Chouxpastryrisesduetotheevaporationoftheliquidswhenexposedtothehightemperatureintheoven.Thesteamissubsequentlytrappedwithinthepuffduetothecoagulationoftheeggsearlyinthebakingprocess,andtheflour,oncecooked,willprovidethethinsupportingstructureoftheskin.Thisbatterisusedforbothsweetpastriesandsavourydishes.

Makes750g(1lb10oz)

125ml(4floz)water

2.5g(1/16oz)finesalt

3eggs,plus1extra(lightlybeaten),ifneeded

Makingthechouxpaste

Put thewater,milk, butter and salt in a saucepan (photo1)and stir overmediumheat until thebutterhasmelted.Increasetheheattohigh,thenaddtheflourallatonceandbeginstirringwithawoodenspoonuntil themixturecomestogether intoathickbutterypaste.Continuemixingfor2–3minutes,oruntilthemixturecomesawayfromthesideofthepan(2).Removefromtheheat.

Transferthemixturetothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment(3)andbeatonmediumspeeduntilcool to the touch.Reduce thespeed to lowandadd the3eggs,oneatatime (4), scraping the side of the bowl from time to time and allowing each egg to be fullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.

To check if the choux paste has the right consistency, lift the paddle attachment; if the doughstretchesabout5cm(2in)beforeitbreaks,itisready(5).Alternatively,takeasmallteaspoonofthedough;ifitstaysuprightbutcollapsesatthetip,itisready.Ifthedoughtipbreaksofforstaysinastiffpeak,youwillneedtoadd½oftheextraegg.

P ipingchoux

Oncemade,thechouxpasteneedstobepipedstraightaway.Lightlygreaseabakingtray,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwill stick to theoilon the tray,making iteasier topipe thestickychoux.

Tomakeéclairs,fillapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle(6)andpipe10cm(4in)lengths of choux onto a lined baking tray. To pipe puffs or gougères (cheese puffs), pipe smallmoundsof themixtureonto the tray (7).For savourygougères,brushover the topswithaneggwash(8), thenusea forktomakeacrosshatchedpatternonthetop(9).Theseraisedridgeswillbrownquickly,allowingthepufftocrackevenlyduringbaking.

Cookingchoux

Inorderforthechouxtodevelopproperlyandgetthemaximumlift,itneedstobebakedinahotovenat180°C(350°F)earlyintheprocess.Neveropenthedoorduringtheinitialstagesofbaking.After the first 15minutes of baking, reduce the heat to 170°C (340°F) and cook for at least 30minutestoallowthechouxpastrytodryout.Theovendoorshouldbeleftslightlyajarafterthefirst25minutesofbaking,toridtheovenofthelargeamountofsteamcreatedwhilecooking.Ifthesteamisunabletoescape,thiswilllengthenthedryingprocess.

Chouxpastrycanbetrickytocookperfectly,soIalwaysrecommendcookingafewsamplesbeforecookingthewholemixture.

Chouquettes

(Pearlsugarpuffs)Chouquettesreallyareanexerciseinrestraintforanybuddingbaker,justastheyareforthe

professionalpastrychef.Theirlookcanonlybedescribedasrustic,andtheyarefilledwith…well,air,andrelyonnothingmorethantheirsweetandcrunchypearlsugarfortasteandtexture.Ifyoucan’ttrustmeastohowwonderfultheyare,thenatleastknowthatParisianswouldnotwaitinlongqueuesoutsidetheirlocalbakeryeveryweekendfortheirbagsoffreshlybakedchouquettesiftheywereanythingelsebutdeliciouslyaddictive.

Makes50

pinchoffinesalt

750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry

200g(7oz)pearlsugar(seetip)

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.

LTomakeaneggwash,puttheeggsandsaltinasmallbowlandlightlybeatwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.

LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipeballsofabout3cm(1¼in)indiameteronthetrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Don’tbetemptedtomakethemanybigger—thebestpartofeatingachouquetteisfittingawholeone,oreventwo,intoyourmouth!Ifyoudon’thaveapipingbag,useatablespoonandsimplypushthemoffthespoonontothetraywithyourfingersoranotherspoon.

LBrushathinlayerofeggwashoverthepuffs,thensprinkleagenerousamountofpearlsugaroverthetop.Trytocoverthewholepuffwithasmuchsugarasyoucan,becausethechouxwilldoubleinsizeduringbaking.Removetheexcesssugarbygentlytippingeachtrayonitssidewhileholdingontothesheetofpaper.

LBakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother20minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Remembernottoopentheovendoorduringtheinitialstagesofcooking,asthepuffsneedthesteamintheoventobuildupinordertorise

properly.Removefromtheovenandplaceonawireracktocool.Repeatwiththeremainingpastry.

Pearlsugarismadefromhighlyrefinedcaster(superfine)sugarthathasbeencompactedduringthemanufacturingprocess,thencrushedandsiftedintolarge(2mm/1/16 in)crystals.Theadvantageof this sugar is that it ishighly resistant toheatandwaterand thereforedoesnotmeltduring thebakingprocess—perfectforwhenyouwanttoaddacrunchyelementtoyourbiscuitsorpastries.Pearlsugarisavailablefromspecialistfoodstores.Alternatively,youcancrushandsievesugarcubestoanalmostidenticalresult.

Éclairsàlafraiseetàlamandarine

(Strawberryandmandarinéclairs)Formanydecades,éclairsweresimplyoneofmanyclassiccakesthatyouwouldexpecttofind

inyourlocalbakery,usuallyfilledwitheithercoffeeorchocolatecustard,ormaybefreshcream.Nowadays,however,thankslargelytotheverytalentedpastrychefChristopheAdam,éclairshaveenjoyedaresurgence,evendethroningthefamedmacaronforthetitleof‘mostpopularnew(old)must-havepâtisserie’.

Thereasonbehindtheirmassivesuccessistheirwonderfulversatility(aswasthecaseforthemacaron).Theycanbefilledwithallmannerofcreams,curdsandganache,ofanalmostinfinitecombinationofflavoursandtextures,andcanbecoatedwitheverycolourunderthesun.Feelfreetousethisrecipeasinspirationforyourownideasorflavours.

Makesabout35

Custard

40g(1½oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

2eggyolks

500ml(17floz)strawberrypurée(frozenorblendedfromfresh)

finelygratedzestof2mandarins

100g(3½oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

50ml(13/4floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

Crumble

30g(1oz)almondmeal

150g(5½oz)raw(demerara)sugar

redfoodcolouring(seetip)

Todecorate(optional)

strawberries,quartered

mandarinsegments

pistachionuts,veryfinelychopped

smallmintleaves

smalledibleflowers,suchasviolas

LTomakethecustard,putthecornflourandsugarinaheatproofbowlandstiruntilsmooth,thenaddtheeggandeggyolksandwhiskuntilsmooth.Putthestrawberrypurée,mandarinzestandthevanillabeanandseedsintoasaucepanovermediumheatandstircontinuouslyuntilthemixturecomestotheboil.Removefromtheheatandimmediatelyaddtotheeggmixtureinthebowl,whiskingvigorouslyuntilcombinedwell.Returnthecustardtothepanandwhiskoverlow–mediumheatuntilthecustardthickensandreturnstotheboil.Removefromtheheat,thenremoveanddiscardthevanillabean.

LTransferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixturefittedwithawhiskattachment.Addthebutterandbeatonlowspeedfor20minutes,oruntilthecustardiscooltotouch(about40°C/105°F).Addthecreamandbeatuntilwellcombined.Transferthecustardtoabowlandcoverthesurfacewithplasticwrap.Whenrefrigeratingawarmmixturesuchasthiscustard,makesuretheplasticwrapsitsdirectlyonthesurfacetoavoidtheformationofaskin.Setasidefor1hour,thenrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LMeanwhile,tomakethecrumble,puttheflour,almondmeal,sugarandbutterinafoodprocessorandprocessfor2–3minutes,thenaddafewdropsoffoodcolouringandprocessjustuntilthedoughcomestogether.Shapeintoadisc,coverinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LRolloutthecolouredpastrybetweentwosheetsofbakingpaperuntil2–3mm(1/16–1/8in)thick.Removethetopsheetofpaper.Then,usingasharpparingknife,cutthedoughinto4x11cm(1½x4¼in)rectangles.Pressallthescrapstogether,re-rollandrepeattheprocessuntilyouhave35rectangles.Storethepastryflatintherefrigeratorforatleast10minutes,oruntilneeded,beforetryingtoliftitoffthebakingpaper.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwobakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.

LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipeéclairsabout10cm(4in)longand2.5cm(1in)wide,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Carefullyplaceonechilledpastryrectangleoneachéclair,thenbakefor15minutes.Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother20minutes.Removefromtheoven,leavetocoolalittleonthetray,thentransfertoawireracktocoolcompletely.

LUsingthetipofaparingknifeoraskewer,maketwoholes(oneineachend)inthebaseofeachéclair.Removethecustardfromthefridgeandwhiskvigorouslyuntilsmooth.Spoonthecustardintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzleandpipethecustardintotheéclairs.Makesurethatthecustard(oranyfillingforchouxpuffs)iscoldoryouréclairswillbecomesoggyalmostimmediately.

LYoucanservetheéclairsastheyare,butIliketodecoratethemwithfruit,nutsandsmallmintleavesandedibleflowers—allheldonwithasmalldollopofleft-overcustard.Feelfreetoexperimentwithwhateveryouhaveonhand.Theéclairsmustbekeptrefrigerateduntilservingandarebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked.

Allfoodcolouringsarenotthesame.Somearemuchmoreconcentratedthanothers,somearesoldasliquidsorgels,pasteorevendrypigments.Inordertocontroltheamountofcolouryouaddtoyourcakes,alwaysbindallyouringredientstogetherfirst,thenaddthesmallestamountofcolouring.Youcanthenaddmoreatanytimeduringthemixingprocess.Asarule,strongcolourstendtogiveamodernlook,whilelightercolourstendtobeassociatedwithamoresophisticatedlook.

Chouxbeurredecacahouète-chocolataulait

(Peanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffs)ThismixtureofpeanutbutterandchocolateisatwistontheItaliangianduja,aconfectionery

madeofmilkchocolateandhazelnut,whichisalsoverypopularinFrance.

Ialwaysthoughtofpeanutbutterasalittlesickeningandthepoorcousinofpralinepaste,soittookmonthsofnegotiationsfrommyteamtoconvincemetomakeapeanutganachemacaron.Asitturnedout,anditpainsmetoadmitit,thishasbecomeoneofmyfavouriteflavourcombinations,somuchsothatIthoughtIwoulduseitforthesechouxpuffsaswell.Thisrecipecallsforapeanutandchocolatecustardratherthanastraightganache,whichwouldbetoorichfortheservingportionandtoohardoncerefrigerated.

Makesabout40

pinchoffinesalt

200g(7oz)saltedpeanuts,finelyground

700g(1lb9oz)Custard,atroomtemperature

Peanutganache

200g(7oz)milkchocolate(40%cocoasolids),finelychopped

85g(3oz)smoothpeanutbutter

220ml(73/4floz)whippingcream(35%)

50g(13/4oz)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes

Todecorate(optional)

caramelcoating

toastedorcaramelisedpeanuts

shardsofdriedmeringue

chocolatebiscuitcrumbs

LTomakethepeanutganache,putthechocolateandpeanutbutterinaheatproofbowl.Put

thecreaminasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Thisisasmallamountofliquidanditwillboiloververyquickly,sopaycloseattention.Assoonasthecreamcomestotheboil,pourhalfthecreamoverthepeanutbuttermixtureandwhiskuntilitbeginstocometogether.Atthisstage,yourganacheshouldlooklikeathickpaste.Addtheremainingcreamandgentlywhiskuntilwellcombined.Becarefulnottowhisktheganachetoomuch,asthispushesairintothemixtureandmakesithardandgrainy.Setasideuntiljustwarmtothetouch(about30°C/85°F).

LAddthebutteranduseastickblendertoblenduntilsmoothandwellcombined.Coverthesurfacewithplasticwrap,thensetasideinacoolplace,butnotinthefridge.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetaside.Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipe4cm(1½in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Brushtheeggwashalloverthepuffs,thensprinklegenerouslywiththegroundpeanuts.Removetheexcessnutsbygentlytippingeachtrayonitssidewhileholdingontothesheetofpaper.

LBakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andcookforanother20minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheoven,leavetocoolalittleonthetrays,thentransfertoawireracktocoolforatleast20minutes.

LMeanwhile,placethecustardandthecooledpeanutganachetogetherinasmallbowl.Usingastickblender,processuntilsmoothandwellcombined.Usingasmallbowlforthishelpsthepeanutcustardtostayglossyandsmoothbyreducingtheriskofanyairbubblesgettingintothemixture.

LUsingaserratedknife,cutthechouxpuffsinhalfandkeepthetopofeachpuffclosetoitsbasesotheydon’tgetmixedup.Spoonthefillingintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzleandpipeagenerousdollopofpeanutcustardintothebottomhalfofthepuff.Asyoudothis,trytopullthebaginanupwarddirectionasyoupressthemixtureout,togiveabitofheighttothecustard.Puttheotherhalfofthepuffontop.

LIfyoulike,youcancoatthetopofeachpuffwithablonde(pale)caramel,thendecoratewithsomecrushedtoastedorcaramelisedpeanuts,somesmallshardsofdriedmeringueandapinchofchocolatebiscuitcrumbs.Alternatively,youcouldsimplycoatthepuffswithmeltedchocolate,sprinklewithsomecrushedpeanutsanddecoratewithasmalledibleflower.

Whencookingalargequantityofchouxpuffs,Irecommendthatyoucookafewsamplesbeforecookingthewholemixture,soyoucanbeconfidentaboutthecookingtimes.Eachovenwillcookalittledifferently.

While youare advised to closely follow the recipeswhenbaking, I recommend that youalso addyourpersonal touch, especiallywhen it comes todecorating.

Petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)

Petsdenonnecitronnésàl ’anis

(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)Thesedeliciousbite-sizedfrittersareoneoftherareFrenchspecialtiesthatfailedtogain

widespreadpopularityoverseas,probablydueinparttotheirslightlyirreverentname(whichliterallytranslatesas‘nun’sfart’).Petsdenonnefirstappearedingastronomicliteraturearoundthesixteenthcenturyandwhiletheoriginofitsnameissteepedinfolklore,itatleastgivesusaninsightintothedubioussenseofhumouratthetime.Servetheselittlemorselsasadeliciousmid-afternoonsnackorforbreakfast,dunkedintoalargebowlofcaféaulait.

Makes100

1teaspoongroundstaranise

375g(13oz)ChouxPastry,restedatroomtemperaturefor1hour

finelygratedzestof2lemons

½teaspoonbakingpowder

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying

LPutthesugarandstaraniseinalargebowl,combinewellandsetaside.Putthechouxpastryinanotherbowl,thenaddthelemonzest,vanillabeanseeds(discardthebeans)andbakingpowderandbeatwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombined.

LHeattheoilinadeep-fryeroradeepsaucepanuntil180°C(350°F).Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Holdthefilledpipingbaginonehandandasmallparingknifeintheotherhandand,workinginbatchesof10to15atatime,pipethemixtureintothehotoil,cuttingclosetothenozzleevery2cm(3/4in)tomakesmallballs.Duringcooking,makesurethatthetemperatureoftheoilstaysat180°C(350°F)—ifitcoolstoomuch,thepuffsmaybecomegreasy.Beawarethatthefurtheryouarefromtheoil,themorelikelyyouaretogetscaldedwhenthechouxisdroppedintothehotoil.

LUsingaflatspatula,gentlymovethepuffsaroundintheoil,constantlypushingthemdownintotheoilsotheycookevenly.Itisimportanttofrythepuffsreasonablyslowlysothattheycookallthewaythrough.

LWhentheyaregolden,removewithaslottedspoon,drainonpapertowel,thenimmediately

tossthepuffsinthebowlwiththesugarandstaranisemixtureuntilwellcoated.Servewarmorcoolonwireracksuntilatroomtemperature.

Caster(superfine)sugarflavouredwithvariousspices,teasandfragrantflowers(lavender,jasminetea,vanillabeanseeds,citruszests)canbesprinkledonmanydessertsandsweetbreads,includingthesepuffs.Pourcastersugarandtheflavouringofchoiceintoanairtightcontainer,thencoverwiththelidandshakewell.Keep thesugar inyourpantry,shaking it fromtimeto time. Ifyouareusing fragrant flowersor leaves,alwaysusedried,edibleflowers,rememberingthatalotofbeautifullyfragrantflowerscanbepoisonous,suchasfrangipanisorazaleas.

Gougèresfourréesàlabéchamelaugruyère

(Gruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffs)Thisisthemostpopularrecipeforthesesavourychoux,oftenservedasanapéritifwithdrinks.

Thefactthattheycanbeservedplain,verymuchlikeyouwouldachouquette,orfilledwithanymannerofcreamsandsauces,makesthemanincrediblyversatileamuse-bouche,perfectforanyoccasion,fromthemostformalweddingfunctiontoacasualfamilypicnic.

Thesebéchamel-filledgougèresarethemostpopularandclassicallyFrenchversionbut,ofcourse,feelfreetoaddyourownpersonaltouchesbyswappingnutmegforcardamomordriedherbs,oraddingmushroomscookedwithgarlicandparsleytothebéchamel.

Makesabout40

pinchofsalt

200g(7oz)gruyèrecheese,finelygrated

Gruyèrebéchamel

1litre(35floz)full-creammilk

120g(4¼oz)unsaltedbutter

80g(23/4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

½teaspoongroundnutmeg

finesalt,totaste

LTomakethegruyèrebéchamel,putthemilkinasaucepanoverhighheatandbringtoasimmer.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthebutterinamediumheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoverlowheatuntilmelted.Addtheflourandbeginstirringwithawoodenspoonuntilthemixturebeginstothicken.Thisbutterandflourpasteiscalledarouxandisusedtothickensauces,stocksorsoups.Cooktherouxfor2minutes,stirringcontinuouslyandneverallowingittobrown.Swapthespoonforawhisk,then,whiskingcontinuously,addhalfthehotmilk,alittleatatimeandwaitingforeachadditiontobefullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Increasetheheattomediumandcontinueaddingtheremainingmilk,alittleatatime.

LBringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatandcontinuewhiskingforanotherminute.Addthe100g(3½oz)gruyère,thenutmeg,pepper,andsalttotaste,andcombinewell.Pourthebéchamelsauceintoashallowcontainer,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinformingandrefrigeratefor1hour.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.Tomakeaneggwash,puttheeggsandapinchofsaltinasmallbowlandlightlybeatwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.

LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipe4cm(1½in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofeachround,thenuseaforktomakeacrosshatchedpatternonthetopofeachone(seephoto).Sprinklethefinelygratedgruyèreoverthetop.Bakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother25minutes.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolforatleast20minutes.Usingthetipofaparingknifeoraskewer,makeasmallholeinthebottomofeachpuff.

LWhenyouarereadytoserve,useanelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmenttowhiskthecoldbéchamelonlowspeeduntilsmooth.Spoonthebéchamelintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzleandfilleachpuffwiththebéchamel.Gougèresarebesteatenthedaytheyaremade,althoughunfilledpuffscanbestoredinanairtightcontainerforafewhoursuntilyouarereadytofillthem.

Béchamelisusuallyreferredtoas‘whitesauce’inEnglish.Theinherentcharacteristicsofthissauce,withitsbeautifulcreamytextureandrelativelyneutralflavour,havemadeitapopularingredientinmanydishes,includingGreekmoussakaandItaliancannelloniandlasagne.

Gnocchiaupistouetauxpalourdes

(Clamandpestognocchi)Parisiangnocchi,whicharemadefromchouxpastry,arequitedifferentfromthemorepopular

Mediterraneanpotatognocchi,butthey’rejustasversatileandeveneasiertomake.

WhenIwasanapprentice,Parisiangnocchiwasmyboss’sideaofanup-marketstaffmeal.Simplyboiltheleft-overchouxpastry,softencoldbéchamelleftoverswithmilk,thenaddafewmushroomsandeverybodywins.By‘everybody’Imeanmostlymyboss,becausethatversionwasaslightandrefinedasa1970smayonnaise-ladenprawncocktail!Forthisrecipe,Iamsuggestingalighter,healthierProvençalalternativebyswappingtheheavybéchamelforazingyclamandbasilsauce.Thisisdeliciousservedasahotdishforwinterorasasummerycoldentréeforarelaxedlunchinthesun.

Serves6

750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry,restedforatleast1hourinthefridge

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusextra,fordrizzling

1garlicclove,finelychopped

80g(23/4oz)thyme(about½bunch),leavespicked

400ml(14floz)drywhitewine

1.25kg(2lb12oz)clams(vongole),soakedincoldwaterfor1hourtodisgorgeanysand

juiceof1lemon

120g(4¼oz)basil(1largebunch),leavespicked

4garliccloves,peeled

50g(13/4oz)parmesancheese,finelygrated

30g(1oz)pinenuts,toasted

200ml(7floz)extravirginoliveoil,refrigerateduntilcold

saltandgroundblackpepper,totaste

LTomakethepesto,putthebasil,garlic,parmesan,pinenutsandhalfoftheoliveoilinafoodprocessorandprocessfor30seconds,beforedrizzlingintheremainingoil.Processjustuntilsmooth,thenseasontotastewithsaltandpepper(seetips).Transferthepestotoasmallbowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandrefrigerate.

LFillamediumsaucepantwo-thirdsfullofwaterandbringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducethetemperaturetolow–mediumtomaintainagentlesimmer.Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Placethefilledpipingbaginonehandandasmallparingknifeintheotherand,workinginbatches,pipethemixtureintothesimmeringwater,cuttingclosetothenozzleevery3cm(1¼in)tomakesmallgnocchi.Assoonasthegnocchirisetothetop,removewithaslottedspoon,drainwellandplaceinabowl.Drizzlethegnocchiwithalittleoliveoil.Repeatwiththeremainingmixture.

LHeat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinalargefryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlicandthymeandcook,stirring,for5minutes,oruntiltheonionsaredarkgolden.Addthecreamandwineandsimmerfor5minutes,thenaddtheclams,coverandcookforanother5minutes,oruntilalltheshellshaveopened.Turnofftheheatandcoverthepan.

LHeattheremainingtablespoonofoliveoilandthebutterinanotherlargefryingpanoverhighheat.Whenitbeginssmoking,addthecoldgnocchiandcook,tossingthepancontinuously,untilthegnocchiaregolden.Addtheclamsandcreamsauce,reducetheheattomedium,thenaddthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.Shakethepanwithbothhandsuntileverythingiswellcombined.Removefromtheheatandsetasidefor2minuteswiththelidon.Dividethegnocchiandclamsamongservingplatesandaddafewtablespoonsofpestorandomlyoverthetop.Servehotwithagreensaladandaglassofrosé.

Whenmaking pesto in a food processor, be careful not to overprocess it. Themachine can heat up themixture and causes rapid oxidation of thechlorophyllinthebasilleaves,turningtheirvibrantcolourintoadarkolivegreenmess.Ifthepestostartstofeeltepidtothetouch,stopblendingandrefrigerateforabout10minutesbeforeresuming.

Youcanflavouryourgnocchibyaddingfinelychoppedbasilleaves,thymeorpepperduringthefinalstageofmixingthechouxdough.Thiswillgivenotonlyanadditionaltouchofflavourbutalsoatingeofcolourtothedish.

Patefeuilletée

‘T hefineartsarefiveinnumber,namely:painting,sculpture,poetry,musicandarchitecture,theprincipalbranchofthelatterbeingpâtisserie.’

MARIE-ANTOINECARÊME

Palmiersauxnoisettes(Hazelnutpalmiers)

Pâtefeuilletée

(Puffpastry)

Thepuffpastrywearefamiliarwithtodayisthoughttobeanadaptationoffilopastry,wherelayersofthin,unleavenedbuttereddoughwerestackedtomakedessertssuchasbaklavaandstrudel.Theactualprocessoffoldingadougharoundablockofbuttertoachievethoseimpossiblythinandflakylayersiscreditedtoaseventeenth-centurypainterandpastrychefnamedClaudeGellée.Sincethen,puffpastryhasinfusedeverycornerofFrenchgastronomy,andinmyriadforms:sweet,savoury,coated,filled,twisted—it’sthemostversatiledoughofall.Asanaddedbonus,pâtefeuilletéefreezesverywellraw,aprivilegenotaffordedbyanyyeasteddoughs.

Alongwiththedoughforcroissant,puffpastryisoftenconsideredoneofthetrickiestdoughstomaster,butIhaveactuallyalwaysfoundittheleasttechnicallychallengingofallbakers’doughs.Itconsistsofwrappingabasemixtureofplainflour,saltandwater(sometimeswiththeadditionofmeltedbutter)aroundablockofbutter.Whatitdoesrequire,however,istimeandalotofelbowgreasetoachievethoseamazinglythinandbutterylayerssotypicalofpuffpastry.Thedoughneedstobefoldedandlaminatedseveraltimes(turned),justasyouwouldacroissantdough,exceptyouhavetodothisforalmostdoublethenumberoftimes.UnlikethedoughforacroissantorDanish,whichhasapropensitytobeginprovingatroomtemperature(duetoitsyeastcontent)andisusuallyasofter,morefragiledough,puffpastryismadeofadryandstiffbatterthatdoesnotstickorbreakeasilyduringthelaminatingprocess.Thisisproviding,ofcourse,thatyouworkpatiently,allowingtimebetweeneach‘turn’fortheglutentorelax.

Pâtefeuilletée

(Puffpastry)Therearethreedifferentmethodsofmakingpuffpastry:

Traditionalpuff:ThisisthemethodIuseinthisbook.Thepastryismadefromastiffwater-and-flourdough(calleddétrempe)wrappedoveralayerofbutter.Itrequiresfiveorsixsingleturns(aseriesofrolling,foldingandturningthedough)andabitofpatience,butitwilltakejustaslongtofinishastheothertwomethods.Thismethodwillgiveyoubeautifullythinandregularlayersthroughoutyourpastrythatwillriseevenlyduringthebakingprocess.

F lakypuff(roughpuff):Thisisasupposedlyquickerversionofthetraditionalpuffpastry,althoughyoustillhavetoturnthedoughasyouwouldwhenmakingatraditionalpuff.Thistypeofpuffisusedtomakepieandquichebaseswheretheconsistencyofthelayersisnotreallycriticaltothelookofthefinishedproduct.Tospeedtheprocessupalittle,thepastrycanbemadewiththreeturnsinsteadoffive.Forthismethod,youactuallymixthebutterwiththedoughrightattheendoftheprocess,beforelaminating.

Invertedpuff:Thismethodiscalledinvertedbecauseitrequiresthebuttertobewrappedaroundthedough,theexactoppositetothetraditionalmethod.Onceturned,thiswillgiveyoumore(butthinner)layersofbutterandamorerefinedtexture.Inmyopinion,theaddeddifficultiesofrollingthebutterdirectly(whichcanbedifficultwhenthebutterstartstomeltandsticktotheworksurface)insteadofrollingthedougharefaroutweighedbytheperceivedbenefits,especiallyforanamateurbaker.

Pâtefeuilletée

(Traditionalpuffpastry)Thefollowingmethodisforapuffpastrymadeusingthetraditionalmethod,withfivesingle

turns(notethatafewoftherecipesinthischapterrequiresixturns).Beforestarting,it’simportanttoreadthroughtheinstructionsseveraltimestofamiliariseyourselfwiththeprocess.

Makesabout1kg(2lb4oz)

10g(¼oz)finesalt

50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

250ml(9floz)coldwater

250g(9oz)blockcoldunsaltedbutter

Howtomixthedoughandpreparethebutter

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,mixtheflourandsaltonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Addthemeltedbutterandcoldwaterandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilsmooth.Thetimeittakesforthedoughto(détrempe)becomesmoothwillvarydependingonthesizeof yourbowl and the speedof themixer, however you shouldnever overmix a puff pastrydoughbecausethiswilldevelopthegluten,makingthedoughelasticandveryhardtoroll.Shapethedoughintoaball(photo1),coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Whenthedoughiscold,youwillneedtopreparethebutterforthelaminatingprocess.Placetheblockofcoldbutteronapieceofbakingpaper.Coverwithanotherpieceofbakingpaperandusearollingpintopoundthebutter,turningitregularlyby90degrees,intoarectanglethatmeasuresabout18x20cm(7x8in).Coverthebutterwithplasticwrapandsetaside.

Thelaminatingprocess

Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanddustthetopwithflour.Usingtherollingpin,rollthedoughstartingfromthemiddleandworkingouttowardstheedges(2),toforma16x30cm(6¼x12in)rectangle.Keepmovingthedoughanddustingwithalittleextraflourtostopitsticking—butbefrugalwiththeflour.Ifyoucan’trolloutyourdoughtotheexactdimensions,useyourhandstostretchitintoshape(3,4).Unwrapthebutterandplaceit inthecentreofthedoughrectangle(5).Foldbothendsofthedoughoverthetopsotheymeetinthemiddleofthe

butterandpinchtheendstogether(6).Youshouldendupwitha16x15cm(6¼x6in)rectangle,withthebutterexposedattwoendsandatightlysealedseamoverthetop.

Withoneshortendfacingyou,beginrollingthedoughfromthemiddletothetop(7,8),flouringas needed. Rotate the block 180 degrees and repeat the process until you have a rectangle thatmeasuresabout20x65cm(8x25½in).Foldone-thirdoftherectangleoverintothemiddleoftheblock(9),thenfoldtheotherendoverthetop(10).Thiswillgiveyouasingleturn.

Repeat this process oncemore to get the first two single turns.During theprocess of ‘turning’,makesurethatyoumaintainyouroriginalrectangularshapeeitherbyrollingthedough(11) orstretchingitintoshape,asthisensuresanevendistributionofbutterthroughoutthedough.

Coverthepastryblock(pâton)inplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast3hours.Whenthepastryiscoldandrested,repeattheprocessbygivingthedoughanothertwosingleturns,thenrefrigerateforanother2hours.Finally,turnitoncemore—thisisthelastoffivesingleturns(notethatsomerecipes require six single turns, so add the extra turn at this point, if required).You’ve done it!Refrigerateovernight.

freezingpuffpastry:

LBynowyouprobablybetterunderstandwhatImeantaboutneedingpatienceandelbowgreasetomakethisdough,butthereisgoodnews!Puffpastrydoughfreezesverywell,soIsuggestyoumakethewholebatchevenifthereciperequiresonlyhalf,andfreezetheleftoverforlater(itwillfreezefor1–2months).However,youwillneedtomakesomeminoradjustments.

AsIhavementionedbefore,wheatflourcontainsaproteincalledgluten(responsibleforthedough’selasticity),which,alongwiththecoagulationofthestarches,trapsthesteamcreatedduringthebakingprocess,underpinningitsabilitytodevelopwhilebaking.Unfortunatelyflouralsocontainsanantioxidantcalledglutathione,whichweakenstheglutenovertime(denaturationprocess),reducingthedough’sabilitytoretainitselasticity.

Toslowdownthedenaturationprocessandextendthelifespanofanydough(ifyouaregoingtofreezeitoruseitafewdayslater),addasmallamountofvitaminC(ascorbicacid)—thesamevitaminCsoldinhealthfoodstores.Simplydissolvea500mgtabletinthewaterforyourdoughandpreparethedoughintheusualway.TheadditionofvitaminCwillalsostoptheflourfromoxidisinganddevelopingbrownspots.

Ascorbicacidisoneofthemainingredientsinmanypowdered‘breadimprovers’usedbyprofessionalbakers,andwhileotherantioxidantssuchasvinegar(aceticacid)orcitricacid(foundinlemonjuice)doslowdowntheoxidationprocess,theydonotslowthedenaturationprocessofthegluten.

Insummary:Ifyouaregoingtofreezeyourdoughorkeepitrefrigeratedtouseatalaterstage,dissolveone500mgvitaminCtabletintothewaterforyourdough(0.1percentoftheweightofflour).Remembertoallowtimeforthefrozenpastrytodefrostbeforebaking.

Allumettesglacées

(Icedpuffpastryfingers)Makeabatchoftheseelegantbite-sizedtreatsforafternoonteaoryournextcocktailparty.Use

someleft-overpuffpastryfromthefreezer,rollitout,thenspreadsomeglaceroyaleoverthetopofthemandwhatyouwillendupwithisasimplebutstunning,lightandairypastry,deliciouswithacupofteaoraglassofwineorChampagne.Moreimportantly,withtheirsmooth,shinyfinishandlongdelicateshape,theywillmakeanotherwiseroutinegatheringwithfriendsseemlikequiteasophisticatedaffair(notguaranteedbythisauthor).

Makes40

500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

Royalicing

1eggwhite

250g(9oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted

squeezeoflemonjuice

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2.5mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout18x40cm(7x16in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.Placetherolled-outdough(abaisse)onatraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomaketheroyalicing,puttheeggwhiteandalittleicingsugarinasmallbowlandmixwithaspatulauntilthesugarhasdissolved(seetip).Graduallystirintherestoftheicingsugaruntilafirmpasteforms.Add½teaspoonlemonjuiceandstirvigorouslyforabout3minutes,oruntilsmoothandglossy.Tochecktheconsistencyofyouricing,liftthespatulafromthemixtureandlookforasoftpeak.Iftheicingistoofirm,addafewmoredropsoflemonjuice(conversely,ifit’stoosoft,addmoreicingsugar).Coverthebowlwithadampclothandsetasideatroomtemperature.

LRemovethepastryonthetrayfromthefridge.Usingaflatspatula,spreada1mm(1/32in)thinlayerofroyalicingoverthetop,takingcarethattheicingisspreadevenlyalloverthesurface.Youmaynotneedthewholeamountoficing.Placethepastryinthefreezerfor30

minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Transferthefrozenpastrytoacuttingboard.Usingalargeknife,cutthepastryinto2x9cm(3/4x3½in)rectangles.Toensureneatedges,diptheknifeinhotwaterbeforecuttingthepastrysotheicingdoesn’tsticktotheknife,wipetheknifeclean,thenrepeattheprocess.

LPlaceonthelinedtraysandbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebasesofthepastriesaregolden.Ifyounoticethatthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Leavetocoolalittleonthetraysbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolfor30minutesbeforeserving.

Royal icing is traditionallyusedtopipe intricatedecorationsonweddingorChristmascakesandgingerbreadhouses.Toget thebestresultsalwaysfollowtheserules:

LNeverwhiskthemixture.Anyairpushedintothemixwillmakeitverybrittleanddifficulttopipe,soalwaysuseaflatspatulaandabitof

elbowgrease.

LThelemonjuicehelpstobindthealbumencells(eggprotein)together.Thisimprovestheelasticityoftheicing,butalsoenablesyoutowork

withasoftermixturethatwillsetquicklyandneatly.Alternatively,youcanreplacethelemonjuicewithcreamoftartarorvinegar(aceticacid).

Palmiersauxnoisettes

(Hazelnutpalmiers)Itwasn’tuntilIbeganworkinginabakerythatIactuallytriedoneofthesesimple,heart-shaped

pastries.Comparedtoalltheotherbrightlycoloured,decadent-lookingalternativesthatlinedtheshelvesofpâtisseries,Ithoughttheylookedalittlesadandboring.Ifinallyrelentedandtriedoneandwassosurprisedtofindhowclevertheyactuallywere—lightandsubtlyflavouredandfilledwithlayersofcrystallisedsugar.Nowadays,palmierscomeinallmannerofsizesandflavours,fromthetraditionalsugaredonestothosefilledwithjam,andevensomesavouryversions.

ForthisrecipeI’veusedafillingofsoftchocolateandhazelnutspread,sprinkledwithroastedhazelnuts,whichnotonlybringsanadditionallayeroftexturebutalsogivesthepastriesaslightlymorerusticedge.Ifyoudon’twanttomakeyourownhazelnutspread,thenbuyagood-qualitypralineorhazelnutpasteandnotthemorereadilyavailableversionsthatarehighinsugarandfat,asthesedon’tholdupaswellduringbaking.

Makesabout25

note:Youwillneedtogiveanadditionalsingleturntothepuffpastry,torefinethelayersofpastryandtostop

thepalmierfromexpandingexcessivelyduringthebakingprocess.

150g(5¼oz)rawhazelnuts,roastedandskinned(seetip)

1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,6singleturns

300g(10¼oz)HazelnutandChocolateSpread

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Wraptheskinnedhazelnutsinacleancloth,thensmashthenutsintheclothwiththebaseofaheavy-basedsaucepanuntilcoarselycrushed.Setthenutsaside.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa4mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuring40x50cm(16x20in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

LUsingaflatspatula,spreadthehazelnutandchocolatepasteevenlyoverthepastry,righttotheedges,thensprinklewiththecrushedhazelnuts.Don’tbetemptedtoapplyathickerlayer;thepalmierismadeoffourlayersofpastry,soifthehazelnutspreadistoothickthedoughwon’tcookproperly,andthere’snothingworsethanundercookedpuffpastry!Withonelongsideof

therolled-outdough(abaisse)facingyou,useyourhandstorollthetwolongsidesofthepastrytowardseachothertomeetinthemiddle.Foldthebottomhalfoverthetoptoformalog.Ifthepastryistoosofttohandle,refrigerateitfor30minutes,oruntilfirm.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Usingalargeknife,cuttherollinto2cm(3/4in)thickslicesandplaceonthelinedtrays,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneachastheyaregoingtodoubleinsizeduringcooking.Asyouwillneedtocookthepalmiersinbatches,itisagoodideatorefrigeratetheremainingpastrieswhilethefirstbatchiscooking.

LBakefor10minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F)andbakeforanother30minutes,oruntilthebottomofthepastriesaregoldenbrown.Puffpastryneedsaninitialburstofheattodevelop,butthemajorityofthecookingtimeisdesignedtodryitupasmuchaspossible.Ifthetopsdarkentoofast,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Repeatwiththeremainingpastries.Transfertoawireracktocoolfor1hourbeforeserving.

roastingandskinninghazelnuts

Preheat theoven to200°C(400°F).Put thehazelnutsonabaking trayandroast for10–15minutes,oruntil theybegin to turndarkbrown.Useaspatulatomovethenutsaroundevery5minutesorso.Everyovencooksdifferently,sokeepaneyeonthem,especiallytowardstheendofcooking.Removefromtheovenandwhencoolenoughtohandle,rollthehazelnutsaroundinyourhandstorubofftheskins.

Feuilletésricotta-figue

(Ricottaandfigpastries)Feuilletéisageneraltermusedtodescribesweetorsavourypastriesmadefrompuffpastry.It

usuallyreferstoasimplesquareofpastrytoppedwithafruit,creamorwhateverelseticklesyourfancyandisagreatwaytouseupyouroffcuts—simplyrolloutthedough,cutittoshapeandfreezeforlateruse.Thisisagreatexampleofthefactthat,moreoftenthannot,thebestpastriesareoftentheresultofrestraintandsimplicity.

Makes18

400g(14oz)freshricottacheese,drainedwell

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar,plusextra,forsprinkling

200g(7oz)honey,preferablylavender

9ripefigs,halvedlengthways

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

LPutthericotta,yoghurt,lemonzest,sugar,vanillabeanseedsand2tablespoonsofthehoneyinafoodprocessorandprocessfor1minute,oruntilsmooth.Transfertoabowl,coverandrefrigerate.Sprinklethefigsgenerouslywiththeextrasugarandsetaside.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggs,eggyolkandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetaside.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa3mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout25x35cm(10x14in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

LUsingalargeknife,cutthepastryintoeighteen6x8cm(2½x3¼in)rectangles.Trynottoruntheknifethroughthedoughwhenyoucuttheshapes,asthisdamagesthefragilelayersofpastry.Instead,pushthetipoftheknifethroughthedoughfirst,thenletthekniferolldown,followingthecurvatureoftheblade.Usingaflatspatula,carefullyplacethepastriesonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout4cm(1½in)apart.

LPut1tablespoonofthericottamixtureinthecentreofeachrectangle,leavingasmuchexposedpastryaspossiblearoundthesides.Gentlypushafighalfintothericottamixture,placingthemcutsideup.Carefullybrushtheexposedpuffpastrywiththeeggwash.Whenbrushingeggwashoverpuffpastry,trynottodripanyoftheeggmixtureoverthesides,becausethiswillmakeitharderforthepastrytoriseevenly.Drizzle1teaspoonhoneyoverthefigsoneachpastry.

LBakefor20minutes,oruntilthepastryhasrisenandisgolden.Thecookingtimeswillvaryalittledependingonyouroven,soalwayscheckthatthebottomofthepastriesaregoldenbeforeremovingthemfromtheoven.Serveatroomtemperaturewithacupofcoffee,orwarmwiththick(double/heavy)creamoryoghurt.

DouillonsdepommesauCalvadosetgoussedevanille

(BakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabean)IwaseightyearsoldwhenmyfamilymovedfromNicetoPetit-Couronne,asmalltowninthe

Normandyregion.Normandyisamostlyagriculturalarea,dottedwithappleorchardsandlushgreendairyandcattlepastures,somuchoftheproduceisveryrichandearthy,withlotsofcreams,buttersandheartystews.AlthoughIhadalreadytravelledwithmyfamilyaroundmostofEasternandCentralEurope,samplingexoticfoodsandspecialtiesfarremovedfromwhatIwasaccustomedto,itwasnotuntilwemovedtoNormandythatIbegantorealisehowdiversethefoodwaswithinmyowncountry,andjusthowmuchourfoodandrecipesareshapedbyandintimatelyconnectedtosomanythings—ourlocallandscape,theweather,ourhistoryandtraditions.

ItwasinNormandythatItriedmyfirstdouillondepommes,abeautifullysweetandflakyapplepie,packedfullofcaramelandbutter.ItwasalsothefirsttimeIdrankrawmilkstraightfromthefarm,ateatartetatin—andthecheeses…!Thesedisheswereallmadefromlocalandseasonalingredients,perfectlydesignedtokeepyouwarmduringthoselongwinternights,thelikesofwhichI’dneverexperiencedbefore.

Serves6

finelygratedzestandjuiceof2oranges

100ml(3½floz)Calvados

6smallapples(reinetteorreddelicious)

100g(3½oz)softunsaltedbutter

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

3vanillabeans

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2.5mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout40x70cm(16x27½in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Usinga9cm(3½in)roundcutter,stampoutsixroundsforthebases,thenusea20cm(8in)roundcuttertostampoutsixroundsforthetops.Don’tbetemptedtodividethepastryinhalfbeforeyoudothis,becauseyouwillneedmorepastryforthetopsthanthebases.Dusteachroundwithalittleflour,

thenplaceonatraylinedwithbakingpaper.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.

LMeanwhile,puttheorangezest,orangejuiceand50ml(13/4floz)ofCalvadosinalargebowlandsetaside.Peeltheapplesandcorethemwithanapplecorerorasharpparingknife,thenplaceinthebowlwiththeorangejuicemixture.Turntheapplesinthemixturetomakesuretheyarecoatedintheliquid,tostopthemoxidising.Setaside,turningtheapplesaroundinthebowloccasionally.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutterandtheremainingCalvadosuntilcombined.Ifthemixturelookssplit,heatthebowlalittleoverahotflameorruntheoutsideofthebowlunderveryhotwater,thenbeatagainuntilwellcombined.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F).Linealargebakingtraywithbakingpaper.Placeoneofthepastrybases(thesmallerrounds)onthelinedtray,leavingtherestinthefridge.Drainoneappleandpatdry,thenfillthehollowed-outcorewithagenerousamountofCalvadosbutter.Placeateaspoonofthebutterontopandsprinklegenerouslywithsugar.Removeoneofthepastrytops(thelargerrounds)fromthefridgeandusea1cm(½in)roundpastrycutteroraparingknifetocutoutasmallholeinthemiddle.Placethepastryovertheappleandfoldthepastryaroundit,tryingnottocreatetoomanyoverlapsofpastrytowardsthebottom.Usingasharpknifeorapairofscissors,cutofftheexcesspastryaroundthebottom.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggs,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowl.Brushalittleeggwashoverthepastrybase,thensittheappleinthemiddleofthebase.Pressdownfirmlytojointhetopandbasetogether,thenbrushalloverwitheggwash.Usingthebackofaparingknife,scoreageometricdesignoverthepastry,beingcarefulnottocutallthewaythrough.Tofinish,cutthevanillabeansinhalfandpushahalfthroughtheholeinthetop,toresembleanapplestem.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingapplesandpastryrounds.

LPlacethedouillonsintheovenandbakefor20minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F)andbakeforanother45minutes,oruntilgolden.Ifyoufindyourpastryisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Removefromtheovenandservehotwithmascarponeorthick(double/heavy)cream.

P ithiviers

(Frangipanepie)Forthispie,wewilltravelnorthtothemunicipalityofPithiviersintheLoireValleyregion.This

verytraditionalpie,bakedfortheEpiphanyonthesixthofJanuary,isalsocalled‘kings’cake’orgalettedesrois,referringtolesroismages,orthethreewisemen(kings).Thegaletteismadeofpuffpastryandfrangipane,amoistalmondcream,andalwayscontainsasmallceramicfigurecalledafève(meaningbroadbean,asthisiswhatwasoriginallyused).Theideaisthatthepersonwhofindsthefèveisthencrownedkingorqueenfortheday.IhaveneverforgottenthatwonderfulsenseofanticipationIfeltasachild,justbeforewecutthecake,hopingitwouldbemewhofoundthefève.

Awordofwarning:ifyouarebakingthispieforaFrenchperson,neverforgetthefèveandapapercrown,orthesmallchildinsideyourguestwillbeshattered!

Serves8

pinchoffinesalt

Frangipane

100g(3½oz)Custard

fewdropsofalmondessence,totaste

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Usingacaketinordinnerplateasaguide,cutouta25cm(10in)circleforthebaseandaslightlylarger26cm(10½in)circleforthetop.Placethepastryroundsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaperandfreezefor15minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomakethefrangipane,useahand-heldwhisktobeatthealmondcreamandcustardtogetheruntilsmooth,thenaddthealmondessenceandcombinewell.Befrugalwithyouralmondessence,asitcanoverpowerthemainflavourofyourdish.

LPreheattheovento185°C(365°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggandsalt

togetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.Removethepastryfromthefreezerandspreadthefrangipanemixtureontothesmallercircle,leavinga3cm(1¼in)borderaroundtheedge.Gentlypushthefèveintothefrangipane.Lightlybrusharoundtheedgewitheggwash,thenplacethelargerpastrycircleoverthetopandgentlypressaroundtheedgetoseal.Brushthetopwitheggwash,takingcarenottodripanyoftheeggmixtureovertheside,becausethiswillmakeitharderforthepastrytoriseevenly.Usingthebackofaparingknife,scorecurvedlinesonthetop,radiatingfromthecentretotheoutsideedge.

LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilthebaseofthepieisgolden.Puffpastryneedstobecookedatarelativelyhightemperatureforalongtimetogetthebestheightandflakiness.Ifyoufindthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Transfertoawireracktocoolandserveatroomtemperature,withacrownfortheluckyfinderofthefève.

Frangipaneoralmondcream?Thesecreamsareoftenconfusedor,atleast,almondcreamisoftenerroneouslycalledfrangipane.Whiletheybothusesimilaringredients,theirtextureandtasteareverydifferent.Almondcreamismadeofalmonds,butter,sugarandeggs,sometimeswithflourorcustardaddedtoit.Itcontainsaproportionallylargeamountofdryingredientsandisusedasabasecreamforallkindsoffruittarts.Frangipane,ontheotherhand,useslessdryingredientsandalwaysincludesbitteralmondsoralmondessenceforflavourandfragrance.Frangipaneisusedasafillingandresemblesadensecustard.

Batonsgruyère-parmesan

(Cheesesticks)AtypicalFrenchbreakfastusuallyconsistsofacroissantoratoastedbaguettetartinewithjam,

orsomeothersweetpastry—I,forone,wouldneverthinktoeatanythingsavourysuchasthesecheesesticks,insteadreservingthemforanapéritiforafternoonsnack,maybewithafewgreenolivesandaglassofredwine.InAustralia,however,theyhavebecomeverypopularasaquicksnackforbreakfast.IrememberhowIusedtoshakemyheadinbewildermentasIwatchedcustomerswalkingoutoftheshopearlyinthemorningwithafewcheesesticksinonehandandacoffeeintheother.Itdidn’ttakemelongtochangemymind.Now,Iamoftencaughtearlyinthemorning,scavengingallthebrokencheesesticksandnibblingontheburntgruyèreleftoveronthebakingtrays.

Makes15

80g(23/4oz)parmesancheese,grated

pinchoffinesalt

2teaspoonsfinelygroundblackpepper

LCombinethegruyèreandparmesaninasmallbowlandputinthefreezerfor1hour.Whenthecheesehasfrozen,placeonachoppingboardandchopintothesmallestpiecespossible,thenreturntothefreezer.

LMeanwhile,tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsaltinasmallbowlandsetaside.Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa3mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout20x60cm(8x24in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Towardstheendofrolling,feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthepastryintoshape.

LBrushasmallamountofeggwashoverthetopofthepastry,thensprinkleagenerousamountofthechoppedcheeseevenlyoverthetop,goingallthewaytotheedges.Usingarollingpin,gentlyrolloverthetopofthecheesetomakesureitstickstothedoughduringthetwisting

process.Sprinklethepepperevenlyoverthetopofthecheese.

LWithonelongsideofthepastryfacingyou,andusingalargeknife,cutthepastryintofifteen4cm(1½in)widestrips.Takeonestripandplaceitontheworksurface,cheesesidedownandwiththelongsidefacingyou.Usingyourpalms,gentlyrolloneendofthestripinadownwardsdirectionwhilerollingtheotherendinanupwardsdirection.Lengthenthetwisttoabout20cm(8in)byrollingitwithbothyourhands,workingfromthemiddleout.Placeonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout4cm(1½in)apart.

LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor20minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F)andcookforanother15minutes,oruntildry.Itisessentialthatthecheesesticksarecrispandflakysomakesuretheyarecookedthrough.Ifyoufindtheyarebrowningtooquickly,placeapieceoffoillooselyoverthetopandcontinuebakinguntilcrisp.Removefromtheovenandcoolonawirerackforatleast30minutesbeforeserving.Thesecheesesticks,aswellasmostpastriesmadefrompuff,freezeverywellpriortobeingbaked,somakemorethanyouneedandfreezetheresttouseanothertime.

Gruyèreistheperfectcheesetouseincheesesticksbecauseithasamildflavourwithjusttherightamountofsalt,itaddsahintofsweetnessand,moreimportantly, it stays relativelydryduringbaking.Theonlyothercheesesuitable forcheesesticks ischeddar.Neverusea softpizzacheese, suchasprovoloneormozzarella,becausetheyaretoosoftwhenmeltedandwillstopthepuffpastryfromdryingoutproperly.

Rouladesàlatapenadeetauhaloumi

(Olivetapenadeandhaloumiswirls)OlivetapenadehasbeenusedinProvençalcookingforover2000years,probablybecausethe

olivetreewasoneofthefewtreesresilientenoughtosurvivetheharshclimaticconditionsofthearea.Oliveshavebeencultivatedformillenniaandusedinallmannerofproducts,fromoliveoilsandpickles,tohairconditionersandherbalmedicines.IhavelovedeatingolivessinceIwasachild,butitwasn’tuntilIstartedworkinginaMichelin-starredrestaurantinMarseille(whichfeaturedolivesandtapenadesinmanyofitsfinedishes)thatIrealisedhowversatiletheytrulywereandhow,withalittlebitofimagination,theycouldbeusedinalmostanycapacity,fromcondimentsformeatsandfish,tospreadsforbreadsandcrackers,andevendesserts.

Theserouladesaremadewithagreenolivetapenade—anamederivedfromtheProvençalwordforcapers,tapenas—whichismadebycrushingolives,capersandanchovieswitholiveoil.Thismiraculousconcoctioncanbestoredalmostindefinitelyinyourfridge,andusedontoast,spreadoveragrilledsteak,usedasyouwouldpestoonpasta,orasacondimenttoflavoursaucesandcreams.

Makesabout80

note:Youwillneedtogiveanadditionalsingleturntothepuffpastry,torefinethelayersofpastryandtostop

therouladefromexpandingexcessivelyduringthebakingprocess.

oliveoil,forpan-frying

300g(10½oz)haloumicheese,roughlychopped

Olivetapenade

300g(10½oz)greenolives,pitted

50g(13/4oz)smallcapersinbrine,drained

50g(13/4oz)anchovyfillets

juiceof1lemon

80ml(23/4floz)virginoliveoil,plusextra,ifneeded

LTomakethetapenade,puttheolives,capers,anchovies,lemonjuiceandpepperinafood

processor.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheoliveoilandprocessuntilathick,spreadablepasteforms.Youmayneedtoaddalittleextraoiltoachievetherightconsistency.Transfertoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2mm(1/16in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout35x40cm(14x16in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Towardstheendofrolling,feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthepastryintoshape.Forthesesmallroulades,itisimportantthatthepastryisrollednothickerthan2mm(1/16in)orthespiralwillcomeundoneduringbaking.Cuttherectangleinhalflengthwayssoyouendupwithtwo40cm(16in)longstrips,thendustalittleflouroverthetop.Placeonalinedtrayandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LHeatadrizzleofoliveoilinafryingpanoverhighheat.Assoonastheoilbeginstosmoke,addthehaloumiandcookfor1minute,stirringcontinuouslyuntillightgoldenallover.Removeanddrainonpapertowelandsetasideuntilcooledtoroomtemperature.

LLightlydusttheworksurfacewithflour.Takeonehalfofthepastryoutofthefridgeandplaceitontheworksurface,withonelongsidefacingyou.Usingaspatula,spreadhalfofthetapenadeevenlyoverthetopofthepastry,thenscatterwithhalfofthehaloumi.Usethepalmofyourhandtogentlypushdownonthehaloumi.Rollthepastryupintoatightroulade,startingfromthetopleft-handcornerandworkingyourwayacrosstotheright.Puttherouladeinthefreezerfor30minutestofirmup.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingpastry,tapenadeandhaloumi.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Removeonerouladefromthefreezerandplaceit,seamsidedown,onacuttingboard.Usingalargeknife,cuttherouladeinto1cm(½in)thickslices,holdingitinshapewhilecutting.Pickuponepieceatatime,thenplaceonthelinedbakingtrays,spacingthemabout3cm(1¼in)apart.Placeapieceofbakingpaperontopofthepastriesandcoverwithanotherbakingtray.Bakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F),removethetoptrayandpaperandbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removeandcoolonwireracks.Repeatwiththeremainingroulade.

LServewarmoratroomtemperature.Thesubtlesaltinessofthetapenadeanddelicateflakinessofthepuffpastrymaketheserouladesanidealcanapé.Servethemwithsomecheeseandaglassofwine,orwithpâtéorporkrillettes.

Ifyouwanttofreezetheroulades,dosobeforecookingthem:wraptheslicedrouladepiecesinplasticwrap.Tocook,placethefrozenrouladeslicesin

thefridgetothaw,thenbakeaspertherecipeinstructions.

Toachieveaperfectlycircularshape,usearoundcutterthatbestfitsthesizeofyourrouladesandusethattocuttheexcesspastryoffassoonastheycomeoutoftheoven.

Tarteaupotironetauxlardons

(Speckandpumpkintart)ThisspeckandpumpkinsavourytartisverycommoninthesouthofFrance,mainlyduetothe

factthatpumpkinfavoursamoretemperateclimate.Pumpkintartislargelyaprovincialspecialty,foundmostlyinsmallvillagebakeriesorontheshelvesoffreshfoodmarketsratherthaninthemorecosmopolitanbakeriesoflargetownsandcities.

Ifyouoverlookitsunderstatedanddecidedlyrusticlook,youwillberewardedwithaperfectlybalancedandmoisttart,withundertonesofhazelnutsandhoneythatcanbeenjoyedasamid-afternoontreat,orservedasourfamilylikestodo,asanaccompanimentforaSundayroast.

Serves6–8

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

Filling

600g(1lb5oz)butternut(squash),japorkentpumpkin

50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter

2eggs,lightlybeaten

¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

¼teaspoongroundblackpepper

finesalt,totaste

200g(7oz)piecespeck,baconorprosciutto,cutinto1cm(½in)cubes

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,reservingthepastryscraps.Refrigerateboththetartshellandscrapsfor30minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomakethefilling,peelthepumpkin,removetheseedsandcutitinto4cm(1½in)cubes.Bringalargesaucepanoflightlysaltedwatertotheboiloverhighheat.Addthepumpkin,thenreducetheheattomedium,coverandcookfor15minutes,oruntiltender.Removefromtheheatanddrain.Putthehotpumpkinintoafoodprocessorwiththebutter,cream,eggs,nutmegandpepperandprocessuntilsmoothandcreamy.Seasontotastewithsalt,thensetasidetocool.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebottomofthetartshellisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F).

LMeanwhile,placeafryingpanoverhighheatfor2minutesoruntilhot,thenaddthespeckandcook,stirringcontinuously,for8–10minutes,oruntilthespeckisgoldenandthefathasmelted.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Thisprocessiscalledrenderinganditisdesignedtomeltthefatinyourmeat,removeimpuritiesandimprovetheoverallflavourandtexture.Stirthespeckintothecooledpumpkinpurée,thenpourthepumpkinfillingintothetartshell.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheegg,eggyolkandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.Rolloutthereservedpuffpastryscrapsonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2mm(1/16in)thickrectanglethatmeasuresatleast25cm(10in)wide.Cutthepastryintothin5mm(¼in)strips.Laythestripsoverthefilling,arrangingthemparalleltoeachotherandspacingthemabout2cm(3/4in)apart.Rotatethetart45degreesandrepeattheprocess.Thissimplifiedlatticedesignisalotfasterandeasiertoexecutethanaweavedlatticeonalargetartandstilllooksrusticandelegantafterbaking.Ifyoupreferthetraditionallatticedesign,refertothephotographasaguide.Brushtheeggwashneatlyoverthelatticetopandaroundtheedgeofthepie,thenbakefor30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Servewarmwithatablespoonofthick(double/heavy)cream,andagreensalad.

salttotaste

I rarely recommend a dosage for salt in savoury recipes, because the amount of salt you need can vary dramatically, depending on how long youreducedasaucetothetypeofingredientsyouchose(eveniftheyarethesameasthoseIhaverecommended,differentproductscanvaryinsaltiness)and,ofcourse,yourpersonaltaste.Mostfoodsneedalittlesalttoenhancetheflavour,butaswithmostotherspicesandcondiments,therightamountismostlybasedonyourownpreferences.Forthisreason,Iusuallysuggest ‘salt, totaste’or,whenmakinganythingwherethevolumeofsaucewillreduceasitcooks,itisbesttoseasonattheendofcooking.

Tartegratinée

(Potatoandcreamtart)Thistartisbasedontherecipeforgratindauphinois,whichwasdevelopedover300yearsagoby

AugusteEscoffier,oneofthepioneersofFrenchgastronomy.Thisrecipefortartegratinéedifferssomewhatfromtheoriginalasitcontainsasmallamountofcheeseandeggs.Theideabehindusingthisversionoverthetraditionaloneisbecausethecheeseandeggswillhelpbindthetarttogether,makingitaloteasiertoserve,transformingthisdelicious,ifsomewhatmessy,gratinintoaneasy-to-handlepicnictreat.

Serves6–8

500g(1lb2oz)potatoes,suchasrusset(idaho),desireeorpontiac

3teaspoonsfinesalt,ortotaste

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseofthetartshellisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F).

LMeanwhile,peel,washanddrythepotatoes.Usingamandolinortheslicingattachmentonafoodprocessor,cutthepotatoesinto2mm(1/16in)thinslices.Youcanusealargeknifetoslicethepotatoes,butyouneedtomakesuretheyareallthesamethickness,toensurethepotatocooksevenly.

LPutthecream,nutmeg,saltandpepperinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhigh

heat.Assoonasthecreamcomestotheboil,removefromtheheatandaddtheslicedpotatoes.Coverwithalidandsetasidefor15minutes,oruntilcooltothetouch,thenpourthepotatoesintoasieveplacedoverabowl.Whisktheeggsintothecreammixture,thenstirinhalfthegruyère.

LStartingfromtheoutsideedge,arrangethepotatoslices,slightlyoverlapping,aroundthecircumferenceofthetin.Repeatwiththeremainingpotatoes,workingallthewaytothemiddleofthetart.Placethetartontheovenshelf,thenpourinthecreammixture,leavingthetopedgesofthepotatoslicesexposed.Sprinkletheremaininggruyèreoverthetop.

LBakefor45minutes,thenincreasetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F)andbakeforanother10–15minutes,oruntilthepotatoesarecookedthroughandthecheeseisgolden.Tocheckifthepotatoesarecooked,insertthetipofaparingknifeintothetart—ifyoufeelanyresistance,cookforanother5minutes,thencheckagain.Removefromtheovenandcoolforatleast15minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Thisisdeliciousservedhotorcold,withagreensaladtossedwithasharpvinegardressing.

technicaltip

Therearetwotypesofnon-enzymaticbrowningandthetermsforeachareoftenerroneouslyused.YoumighthavenoticedthatthroughoutthisbookItendtousetheword‘golden’andnot ‘caramelised’todescribethebrowningofcheese(asforthistart),meatsorfish.Thisisbecause‘caramelising’describesthebrowningthatoccurswhensucrose(notprotein)isheated.ThisisdifferentfromtheMaillardreaction,atermusedtodescribeaseriesofchemicalreactionsthatoccurbetweenaminoacidsandreducingsugarswhenproteins(meat,fish,dairyproducts)areheated.Sweetvegetablessuchascarrots,beetroot(beets)orsweetpotatoeswillbesubjectedtobothcaramelisationandtheMaillardreactionduringthebrowningprocess,becausetheycontainbothsucroseandprotein.

TarteaufromagedeBanon

(Goat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltart)WhenmysisterandIwereyoung,wespentoursummerholidaysatmygrandparents’housein

Ongles,atinyProvençalvillagesurroundedbyfieldsoflavender,wildthymeandsunflowers.EveryweekendtheytookustoBanon,asmalltownshipfamousworldwideforitstraditionalspecialties,includingadonkeysausageandtheverywellrenownedBanongoat’scheese,asmallcircularcheesemadeofrawgoat’smilk,wrappedinchestnutleaves.Thistartremindsmeofthosehappysummerweekends,whenwewouldhuddleundertheyellowawningofthelocalcafétoescapethescorchingheat,sippingonarefreshingorgeatsyrup,hungrilyscoffingdownacoldtartelettedeBanon.IlovethistartforthefactthatitissorepresentativeofProvençalcooking:simple,almostrusticandmadewithlocallysourcedingredients.

Serves6–8

2roma(plum)tomatoes,verythinlysliced

10blackolives

180g(6¼oz)Banongoat’scheese,orotherfreshgoat’scheese,crumbled

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

1tablespoonextravirginoliveoil

400g(14oz)cherrytomatoes,quartered

2garliccloves,thinlysliced

3thymesprigs,leavespicked

10largebasilleaves,plusextra,toserve

finesalt,totaste

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)ringtinortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinasaucepanovermedium–highheat.Assoonastheoilbeginstosmoke,addtheonion,thenreducetheheattomediumandcookfor10minutes,stirringregularlyuntiltheonionisgolden.Addthetomatoes,garlic,thymeandpepper,thencoverandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes,oruntilthickenedandreduced.Towardstheendofcooking,tearthebasilleavesintothesauceandseasontotastewithsalt.Removefromtheheat,coverwithaclothandsetasideuntilcooledtoroomtemperature.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F).

LSpreadthecooledsauceoverthebaseofthetartshell.Makesureyoursauceiscool,asawarmsaucewillsoftenthethinlayersofpuffpastry,resultinginasoggybase.Placetheslicedtomatoesoverthetop,arrangingtheminslightlyoverlappingconcentriccircles,thenscatterovertheolivesandgoat’scheese.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Drizzletheoliveoiloverthetomatoes,thenscatterwiththeextrabasilleavesandservewarm.Ifyouprefertoserveitcold(mypersonalfavourite)asamid-afternoontreatorfordinner,refrigerateuntilneededandonlygarnishwiththebasilwhenyouarereadytoserve.

Thethymeandbasilwilltakeawhiletoinfusethesauceproperly,sothistartwilltasteevenbetterafterafewdays.Simplyreheatitina180°C(350°F)ovenfor5minutes.

Croissants

‘Nothingiscreated,nothingislost,allistransformed.’

ANTOINELAVOISIER

Croissant

Croissants

Fromafreshlybakedbaguettetoabowlofcaféaulait,thecroissantissomuchapartofthefabricofdailyFrenchlifethatit’shardtobelieveitisn’treallyFrench.Therearecountlessstoriesabouthowandwherethispastryoriginated,withmosttheoriessuggestingthatitwasMarieAntoinette,originallyfromVienna,whointroducedtheAustriankipferl(arolled-upplainbrioche)totheFrenchRoyalCourt.Itwasn’tuntillaterthataFrenchbakerinventedthemethodoflayeringbutterinasweetbreaddough,which,inturn,ledtothecreationofpuffpastry,Danishpastryand,ofcourse,thefamedbuttercroissantweknowandlovetoday.ItisnotentirelyclearwhythecroissanthasbecomesocloselyassociatedwithFrenchculture;however,whatisclearisthattherereallyisnosuchthingasatrue‘local’creation.Asmuchaswemightthinkotherwise,allourfavouritespecialtiesareinfactjustthelaststepinalonglineofsmallimprovementsthathavebeenmadeovermanyyears,allsubjectiveandbearingwitnesstothevariousinfluencesofalonglineofbakers.

Asasmallboy,Irememberlookinglonginglyatthebasketsfilledwithgoldenbrownpastriesthatadornedthewindowofmylocalpâtisserie,andevennowIcanstillrememberthewarm,butterysmellthatwaftedoutthedoor.Ilovedtryingtocatchaglimpseofthepaleanddishevelledbakerinside,rollingthosesmalltrianglesofdoughintocroissantsatwarpspeed,thetraysofperfectlyshapedcrescentsofdoughglisteningunderthefluorescentlights.Now,everytimeIseeasmallchildlookingupatmewhenIaminthekitchenrollingcroissants,thesamewayit’sbeendoneforahundredyears,IwonderifheseesthemagicofthemomentasIdidallthoseyearsago,orifallheseesisapaleanddishevelledmiddle-agedmanplayingwithflour.

Pâteàcroissant

(Croissantdough)Thisviennoiserieisnotoriouslytrickytomakebecauseitencompassesnotonlytheartofmixing

ayeasteddough,butalsothefiddlyprocessoflaminating,or‘turning’,thedoughwithbutter.Unlikepuffpastry,thecroissantdoughcontainsyeastandhasapropensitytostartprovingduringthelaminatingprocessifyourworkingenvironmentistoowarm.Addedtothataretheproblemsyouwillfaceifyourbutterbeginstosoftentoomuch.SobepatientandfamiliariseyourselfwithyouringredientsbyreadingthechapteronEssentialIngredientsandtheentireprocessdescribedinthisstep-by-stepsectionbeforeyoubegin.Trustme,therewardsoflookingatyourcroissantsslowlydevelopingintheovenandtheprideyouwillfeelwhenyouservethesebeautifullyflakypastriestoyourfriendsandfamilywillfarexceedtheeffortspentinmakingthem.

Makesabout1kg(2lb4oz)

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

2teaspoonsfinesalt

10g(¼oz)driedyeast

270g(9½oz)blockcoldunsaltedbutter

Howtomixthedoughandpreparethebutter

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,mixtheflour,sugar,saltandyeast(photo1)onlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Graduallyaddthemilk(2)andmixfor5minutes.Atthis stage thedough shouldbe firmbutnotdry. If themixture looks toohardor if yourmixerfindsithardtomixproperly,add1–2tablespoonsofextramilktosoftenitup.Sometypesofflouror floursmadefromdifferent typesofwheathavedifferentratesofabsorptionandmayrequiremoreliquidthanothers.

After5minutes,increasethespeedslightlyandmixforanother10minutes,oruntilthedoughissmoothandcomesaway fromthe sideof thebowl (3).Be carefulwhen increasing the speedofyourmixer; thisdoughcanbehardonsmallmixers, so ifyou feel likeyourmixer is struggling,reducethespeedandmixforafewminuteslonger.

Stopthemixer,removethedoughandplaceinabowl.Lightlydustwithflour(4)andcoverwithacleancloth.Setasideinawarmplaceforthefirstprove(pointage)for1hour,oruntilincreasedinsizebyhalf.Alwayscheckonhowfastyourdoughisproving.Thefirstproveismeanttostimulate

theyeastonly,soassoonas thedoughincreasesbyroughlyhalfof itsoriginalsize, transfer toatray linedwithbakingpaper. Flatten thedoughover the tray asmuch as you can to remove asmanygasbubblesaspossible.Coverthetraywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateonthetopshelfforatleast1hour.

Whenthedough(détrempe)iscold,youwillneedtopreparethebutterforthelaminatingprocess.Thisinvolvespoundingthecoldbutterintoarectangleroughlyhalfthesizeofyourdough.Todothis,placetheblockofcoldbutteronapieceofbakingpaper,coverwithanotherpieceofbakingpaperandusearollingpintopoundthebutter,turningitregularlyby90degrees,intoarectangleabout18x20cm(7x8in).Coverthebutterinplasticwrapandsetaside.

cookingtip:

LIdeally,theprovingprocessshouldbedoneinahumidity-controlledenvironmentbecausethedoughhasatendencytodryoutwhenexposedtodryairso,ifyoucan,proveyourcroissantsinanenclosedspacesuchasacupboardoryouroven(turnedoff)tostopthemdryingout.

Thelaminatingprocess

Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanddustthetopwithflour(5).Rollthedoughfromthemiddleallthewaytotheedgesintoa20x35cm(8x14in)rectangle.Keepmovingthedough and dustingwith a little extra flour to stop it sticking (be frugal with the flour you useduringthisprocess).Ifyoucan’trollyourdoughouttotheexactdimensions,useyourhandstostretchitintoshape.Rotatethedough90degrees.

Unwrapthebutterandplaceitinthecentreofthedoughrectangle.Foldbothendsofthedoughover the top so theymeet in themiddle of the butter and pinch the ends together (6, 7). Youshouldendupwitha20x18cm(8x7in)rectangle,withthebutterexposedattwoends,andatightlysealedseamoverthetop.

Withoneshortendfacingyou,beginrollingthedoughfromthemiddletothetop(8),flouringasneeded. Rotate the block 180 degrees and repeat the process until you have a rectangle thatmeasuresabout20x65cm(8x25½ in).Foldone-thirdof therectangleover themiddleof theblock(9), then fold theotherendover the top (10).Thiswill giveyoua single turn.During theprocessof‘turning’,makesurethatyoumaintainyouroriginalrectangularshapeeitherbygentlyrolling or stretching the dough into shape, as this will ensure an even distribution of butterthroughoutthecroissant.

Use your finger to mark one dot in the dough (11), as a reminder that this is the first turn.(Increase the number of dots for subsequent turns.) Cover the dough in plastic wrap andrefrigeratefor1hour,oruntilthebutterisfirm.

Thenextandfinalturnisadoubleturn,orbookturn,andforthisthedoughwillneedtoberolledoutthinnertoaccommodatetheadditionalfold(12).Repeattheprocessasforthefirstturnbutcontinuerollinguntilyougetalargerrectanglemeasuring20x90cm(8x35½in).Onceyouhaverolledandstretchedthedoughintothecorrectdimension(13),foldbothendsuptomeetinthemiddle of the rectangle (14, 15), then fold it in half again to end up with a block roughly theoriginalsizeofthebutter(16).

Wrapthecroissantdough(pâton)inplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours.Restingthedoughinthefridgeenablesthegluten(proteinintheflour)torelaxandalsohelpsthebutterharden.Thisnotonlymakesitaloteasiertoworkwiththedoughbutalsoensuresthatthebutterisn’tabsorbedintothethinlayersofdough,whichwouldeffectivelynegatemostoftheworkyouhavejustdone.

cookingtip:

LCroissantdoughdoesnotfreezeverywellduetoitsliveculturecontent(yeast),anddomesticfreezersarenotdesignedtomaintainthecoldtemperaturesrequiredtostabilisetheyeastproperly.MyadviceistobakeallthecroissantsonthedayandkeepanyleftovertomakeAlmondCroissantsorBreadandButterPudding.

Everwonderedhowmanylayersofbutterthereareinacroissant ?

LCroissantsaremadeusingtwodifferenttypesofturns,orfolds:asingleturnandadoubleturn,orbookturn.Eventhoughabookturnisgenerallyreferredtoasadoubleturn,itisnotentirelymathematicallycorrect.Tosaveyouthetroubleofhavingtocounteachandeverylayerofyourcroissantorpuffpastryatbreakfast,hereisasimpleequationthatillustratesthemechanicsoflaminating:

Singleturns: Double(book)turns:Firstturn:3layersofbutter Firstturn:4layersofbutterSecondturn:3x3=9layers Secondturn:4x4=16layersThirdturn:9x3=27layers Thirdturn:16x4=64layersFourthturn:27x3=81layers Fourthturn:64x4=256layersFifthturn:81x3=243layers Sixthturn:243x3=729layers

Soifyou’veeverwonderedhowmanylayersofbutterareinyourcroissant,theansweris12:threelayersforasingleturnxfourlayersforadoubleturn.

Makingthecroissants

Croissantsareahomagetothewondermentofgeometryandhowasimpletrianglecanbeshapedintoamulti-layered,perfectlyshapedcroissantwithasinglerollofthehand.Rememberthateverybakerandpastrychefintheworldhastheirownpersonalstylewhenitcomestotheshapeoftheircroissant,astylehonedovermanyyearsofpractice,sodon’tbetoodauntedifyoursendupalittlefat,oralittleshort.Regardlessoftheirshape,theyareyoursandthat,initself,isabeautifulthing.

Makes10–12

1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn

pinchoffinesalt

Cuttingthecroissants

Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Removethecroissantdoughfromthefridgeandplaceona lightly flouredworksurfacewithoneshort,openside facingyou.Dust the topwitha littleextra flour and begin rolling lengthwise, regularlymoving the dough anddustingwith flour toensureitdoesn’tsticktotheworksurface.Thisfinalprocessisthemostdemandingone.Ifyou’regettingtiredorifthedoughsoftensuptoomuch,simplysprinklethetopofthedoughwithflour,folditgentlyoveritselfandrefrigerateuntilitsetsagain.Continuetherollingprocessuntilyougeta longrectangle(photo1) thatmeasuresabout20x60cm(8x24 in)and isabout5mm(¼in)thick.

Before you begin cutting your rolled-out dough (abaisse), fluff it up by running your handunderneath it and lifting itupgentlyonall sides.Thisallows thegluten time to relaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.

Usealargeknifetocutthedoughintoalternatingtriangleswitha10cm(4in)base(2).Gentlylifteach triangle and stretch itwith your hands until they are lengthened by about 10 per cent, toroughly 22 cm (8½ in) long (3).Remove any excess flour from thework surface, as the doughneeds toadhere to the surface for thecroissants tobe rolledproperly.Placeone triangleon theworksurfacewiththepointedendfacingyou.Usingbothpalms,rollthewideend(thebase)ofthecroissanttowardsyou,allthewaytothetipofthetriangle(4).Whenthecroissantisrolled,simplybend it in the shapeof a crescent andplace it on a linedbaking tray, leaving a 5 cm (2 in) gapbetweeneach.

Coverthecroissantswithadampclothandplace inawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;they

should feel soft but still elastic. If the pastry doesn’t bounce back after being poked, they areprobably slightly overproved, so occasionally check on their progress towards the end of therecommendedprovingtime.

Bakingthecroissants

Tomakeaneggwash, lightlybeattheeggsandsalt together inasmallbowl, thensetasidefor5minutes.

Preheattheovento185°C(365°F).Whenthecroissantshaveproved,brushthemgenerouslywiththeeggwashandbakefor25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Unlikepuffpastry,croissantdoughhas a leaveningagent (yeast), sodoesnot rely solelyon the steamcreatedbywater evaporationduringthebakingprocesstodevelop.Croissantsshouldhaveaflakyskinandasoft,fleshycentre,sotheyneedtobecookedatamuchlowertemperatureforashorterperiod—don’tbetemptedtoleavethemfortoolongintheoven.Generallyspeaking, ifyourespectthecookingtemperature,thecolourwillbeagreatindicatorofwhetherthecroissantsarereadyornot.

Painsauchocolatetauxnoisettes

(Chocolateandhazelnutcroissants)Painsauchocolat,orchocolatinesastheyarecalledinsomeareas,areoneofmanypastriesmade

withcroissantdough.TheyseemtohavemadetheirwayontotheshelvesofFrenchbakeries,probablyasanimprovementofthemuch-loved,and‘imaginatively’named,baguettebeurreetchocolat—acrunchystickof—aspertheliteraltranslation—chocolatesandwichedinabutteredbreadstick.

ForthisrecipeIrecommendyouuseagood-quality,low-sugarchocolatewitha70percentcocoacontentandsomechoppedhazelnutstoaddabitoftexture.However,asalways,feelfreetouseanytypeofchocolatetosuityourpersonaltaste,orremovethenutsaltogethertomakeatraditionalchocolatine.

Makes10–12

300g(10½oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),coarselychopped

200g(7oz)hazelnuts,roastedandskinned,coarselychopped(seetip)

pinchoffinesalt

LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Thestickingcreatesresistance,whichmeansyouwillneedtoapplymorepressure,thusdamagingthedelicatelayersofbutter.Youneedtomaketherectangleslightlywider—about30cm(12in)wideand5mm(¼in)thick.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Beforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandsunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Thisallowstheglutentimetorelaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.Cuttherectangleinhalflengthwaystoformtwolong,15cm(6in)wide,rectangles.Placeonepieceonalinedtrayandrefrigeratewhileyoucutandrolltheotherhalf.

LUsingalargeknife,cutthedoughinto10x15cm(4x6in)rectangles.Inordertopreservetheintegrityofthefinelayersofbutter,trytocutthepastryusingonesinglemotionoftheknife,andavoiddraggingtheknifethroughthedough.Place1tablespoonchoppedchocolateoneach

rectangle,alongthetopofoneshortside,thensprinklesomehazelnutsoverthewholerectangle.Feelfreetoincreaseordecreasetheamountofchocolate,nutsorwhateverelseyoudecidetouse.Startingfromtheendwiththechocolate,tightlyrollupeachrectangleofdoughtoenclosethefilling.Placeonthelinedtrays,leavinga7cm(23/4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento185°C(365°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.

LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Brushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofeachpastry,thenbakefor25minutes,oruntilgolden.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

Pastrieswill increaseinsizeaftertheyhavebeenbaked,sometimesasmuchastwicetheiroriginalsize,sobeverythoroughwhenbrushingtheeggwash over your pastries before cooking them. Start from the top and brush the eggwash all theway to the very bottom of each piece, to ensuremaximumcoverageandthebestfinishpossible.

Croissantsauxamandes

(Almondcroissants)Consideringhowmuchworkgoesintomakingasimplecroissant,andkeepinginmindthat

eachofthemillionsofcroissantsbakedeverydayacrosstheworldneedtobesoldwithinhoursofbeingbaked,itwasinevitablethatbakersweregoingtocomeupwithacleverwayofrecyclingthem.AsfarasIknow,thereisnodocumentedwayofmakinga‘typical’Frenchalmondcroissant;somearemadebyliningthecroissantdoughwithalmondcreampriortobaking,somearesoakedinsyrupandsomearen’t.Onceagain,itisamatterofpersonalpreference.

ThisrecipefollowstheexactprocessthatIhavestucktosincemyapprenticeship.AsawisemaneloquentlytoldmewhenIfirstmovedtoAustralia,‘Ifitain’tbroke,don’tfixit’.Thereciperequiresonlyafewingredients:someleft-overcroissants(orusepainauchocolatifyoulike),somealmondcreamandasyrup,andwhatyou’llendupwithisanincrediblymoistandtastypastry,withadelicatelycrunchylayerofalmonds.Thisisrecyclingatitsbest!

Makes10

50ml(13/4floz)rum(optional)

10day-oldcroissants

500g(1lb2oz)AlmondCream

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,todust

LPut1litre(35floz)water,thesugarandrum,ifusing,inasaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocoolforatleast15minutes,oruntilabout60°C(140°F).

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linealargebakingtraywithbakingpaper.Cutthecroissantsthree-quartersofthewaythrough,fromthebacktothefront.Notcuttingtheminhalfcompletelywillstopthetopsfromfallingoffduringsoaking.Workingwithoneatatimeandusingyourhands(seetip),submergethecroissantsintothewarmsyrup,openingthemupslightlytoallowtheliquidtosoakallthewaytothemiddleofthepastry.Gentlysqueezetoremovetheexcesssyrupandplaceonthelinedtray.

LSpoonthealmondcreamintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Liftupthetopofeachcroissantandpipeathicklineofalmondcreaminsidethecroissant,fromoneendto

theother.Whenallthecroissantsarefilled,pipeanotherlayerofalmondcreamalongthetopofeachone.Sprinklewithagenerousamountofalmonds,thenuseyourpalmtopressthealmondsontothecreamandflattenthecreamonthetopofthecroissants.

LBakefor25minutes,oruntilthealmondcreamfillingbeginstoset.Tocheck,useapairofkitchentongstocarefullyliftopenacroissant;ifthecreamisstillrunny,cookforanother5minutes.Removefromtheoven,allowtocoolalittle,thendustgenerouslywithicingsugar.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

LLikemostpastries,almondcroissantsarebestwhentheyarefreshlycooked,however,intheunlikelyeventthattheywon’tallbeeatenontheday,theycanbekeptforupto1weekiftheyarewrappedindividuallyandstoredonthebottomshelfofthefridge.Simplyreheatthemina180°C(350°F)ovenfor10minutes.

Alwayscheckthetemperatureofyoursyrupbeforeputtingyourhandsintothepan!Ifyoudon’thaveathermometer,allowthesyruptocoolfor15minutes,thendiponefingerinthesyruptoassessthetemperature.Youwillgetthebestresultifyoursyrupishot,becauseacoldsyrupwon’tsoakintothepastryaswellasitshould.Ifthesyrupisgettingtoocold,reheatitfor1–2minutesonhighheat.

Fourrésauxpêchesetaucitron

(Peachandlemonpastries)Nothingsayssummermorethanthearrivalofthefirststonefruitsinthebasketsofyourlocal

fruitandvegetableshop.Let’sbehonest,ifyouaretalkingabouttemptation,thehumbleapplepalesincomparisontoabeautifulvelvetypeachwithitssweetandmoistpulpandtangyskin,oraperfectlyripeplumwithitsshiny,translucent-burgundycolourandjuicyflesh.InthisrecipeIhaveusedwell-ripenedpeaches(oryoucouldtryapricotsorplums)andhaveaddedasmallamountoflemonzesttobalanceoutthesweetnessofthefruit.

Makes18

350g(12oz)coldCustard

2tablespoonswhippingcream(35%fat)

pinchoffinesalt

9ripepeaches,halved,stonesremovedandcutinto4mm(1/8in)thickslices

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whiskthecustardonlowspeeduntilsmooth.Addthelemonzestandcreamandwhiskforanother3–5minutes,oruntilsmoothandshiny.Transfertoasmallbowl,coverandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa30x60cm(12x24in)rectangle,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

LBeforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Usingalargeknife,cutthedoughintoeighteen10cm(4in)squares.Trytocutthepastryusingonesinglemotionoftheknife,andavoiddraggingtheknifethroughthedough.Placethesquaresonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigeratefor20minutes,oruntilcoldandfirm.

LWorkingwithonepastrysquareatatime,andkeepingtheothersrefrigerated,placeitonthe

worksurface.Foldineachcornersotheymeetinthecentre,thenuseyourthumbtopresstheendstogethertoseal.Placeonalinedbakingtrayandrepeatwiththeremainingsquares,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.

LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Usingyourfingertip,makeasmallindentinthecentreofeachpastrysquare.Thiswillstopthefoldedpastrycornersfromopeningupduringthebakingprocessandwillforcethedoughtorisearoundthepeachesratherthanpushingthefillingoutfromunderneath.Spoon1tablespooncustardintoeachindent,thenarrangethepeachslicesinacircularpatternonthecustard.Brushtheeggwashovertheexposedpastry(seetips).Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor20–25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Transfertoawireracktocoolslightly.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

Whileitmightbealittlefiddly,alwaysfillyourpastriesbeforeyouapplytheeggwashsothatthecustardstickstothedough;otherwise,thecustard(andthepeaches)mightslideoffduringthebakingprocess.

Citrusrindsalwaysneedtobecookedtomakethemmorepalatableand,moreimportantly,sothattheyreleasetheiroils;however,theywillburnveryquicklywhenexposedtodirectheat,soalwaysmixtheminacream,orplacethemunderanyfruit,priortobaking.

Rouladespistache-framboise

(Pistachioandraspberryswirls)Thewordrouladeliterallymeans‘rolledup’and,assuch,referstoamethodratherthana

specificdoughorflavourcombination.Thisviennoiseriecanbetweakedtosuittheseason,aspecificcelebrationorjustpersonalpreference—ifevertherewasablankcanvasforyoutoexperimentwithyourflavourcombinations,thisisit.

Thisrouladewithpistachioandraspberryisoneofmyfavourites,withitsbeautifullyflakypastry,sweetpistachiocreamandtartberryinfusion,itisperfectfordunkinginyourcupofcoffeeinthemorning,anditisalsothesimplestwaytousecroissantdough.

Makesabout15

300g(10½oz)PistachioCream

300g(10½oz)frozenraspberries

pinchoffinesalt

finelychoppedpistachios,todecorate(optional)

finelychoppedfreeze-driedorfreshraspberries,todecorate(optional)

LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa25x50cm(10x20in)rectangle,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Thestickingcreatesresistance,whichmeansyouwillneedtoapplymorepressure,thusdamagingthedelicatelayersofbutterinthedough.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Beforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandsunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Thisallowstheglutentimetorelaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.

LWithonelongsidenearesttoyou,spreadthepistachiocreamalloverthedough,rightuptotheedges,thensprinklethefrozenraspberriesevenlyoverthecream.Startingfromthetopleft-handcornerofthedoughandworkingyourwayacrosstothetopright-handcorner,rollthedoughintoatightlog.Usingalargeknife,cuttheloginto3–4cm(1¼–1½in)thickrollsand

placeonthelinedtrays,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetasidefor5minutes.

LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Brushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofeachrouladeandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthebasesaregolden.Ifthetopsarebrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebakinguntilready.Removefromtheovenandtransfertoawireracktocoolfor20minutes.Ifyoulike,sprinklewithfinelychoppedpistachiosandraspberriesbeforeserving.

Anydoughthatislayeredwithbutter,suchasdoughsusedforcroissantsorDanishpastries,tendstotastealotricherandmorebutterythanabriochedough(eventhoughtheyusuallycontainalotlessfat),becausethebutterisusedraw,sandwichedinsidethedough.Thisrich,fattytasteisexacerbatedwhenthebutterishotandmelted.Ithereforealwaysrecommendeatinganylayeredpastryatroomtemperature,neverwarmedup.

Brioches

‘I ftheydon’thavebread,letthemeatbrioche!’

Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd’oranges(Candiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbrioche)

Brioches

SinceitsfirstwrittenreferenceintheMiddleAges,thisviennoiseriewasalwaysgoingtobespecial,withitssoftandfluffytexture,itsbutteryundertonesandbeautifullycolouredcrust.Itwas,andstillis,consideredthemostdecadentofallviennoiseries.

Inorderforthisdoughtobecalledabrioche,ithastobemadeofthewhitestflour,preferablywithahigh-proteinwheat,butter,eggsandsugar.Whiletheseingredientsarenowreadilyavailablefromanysupermarket,itisnotuntilwethinkofthemintheirhistoricalcontext—whenthecostofakilogramofflourwasaround40percentofapeasant’sdailysalary,sugarhadtobeimportedfromvariousexoticplacesfromaroundtheworld,andbutterwasthepreserveoftherichupperclass—thatwecanbegintounderstandhowbriocherapidlycementeditselfasanepicureanproduct.

Thefactthattheinfamousquote(topleft),oftenerroneouslytranslatedas‘letthemeatcake’,waswronglyattributedtoMarieAntoinette,thelastqueenofFranceatthetimeoftheFrenchRevolution,actuallyhadmoretodowithpropaganda,toreinforcetheglaringdisparitiesbetweentherulingeliteanditssubjectsthanregardsforhistoricalaccuracy.Itnonethelesshelpedpropagateandcementtheimageofthehumblebriocheasaluxuriousanddecadentproduct.

Pâteàbrioche

(Briochedough)Generallyspeaking,inatraditionalbakeryyouwillfindtwobriocherecipes:butterbrioche,

whichcontainsaveryhighpercentageofbutterandarelativelysmallamountofsugar,andsugarbrioche,whichcontainslessfatbutisslightlysweeter.TherecipeIhavechosentoincludehereisthebutterbrioche.Theadvantageofthisrecipeoverthesugarversionliesnotsomuchinthefactthatitcontainsmorebutter(althoughthataloneshouldbeenough!)butratherthatitcontainsverylittlesugar,makingitaversatilebriochethatcanbeusedforbothsavouryorsweetviennoiserie.

Makes1kg(2lb4oz)

note:Thedoughforthisbriochehastobepreparedadayaheadandcanonlybeusedwhencold.

3teaspoonsfinetablesalt

15g(½oz)driedyeast

5coldeggs

150ml(5floz)waterchilledwith5icecubes,refrigerated

230g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed

Makingthedough

Usinganelectricmixer fittedwithadoughhookattachment,combine the flour, sugar, saltandyeastonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.

Breaktheeggsintoabowlandaddthemtotheflourmixture(photo1),alongwith100ml(3½floz)ofcoldwaterstrainedfromtheicecubebath.Mixonlowspeedfor5minutes,oruntilasoft,stickydoughforms.

Increase the speed tomedium andmix for 15minutes, scraping the doughhook from time totime,untilthemixturecomesawayfromthesideofthebowlandbeginsto‘slap’aroundthebowl(2).Alwayscheckthetemperatureof thebriochedoughduringthemixingprocess.Thefrictioncreatedduringkneadingwillgenerateheat,whichcandamagetheyeastandpotentiallybreakthestrandsofgluten(whichgivethedoughitselasticity),leavingyouwithasoft,unworkablepaste.Ifthedoughstartstofeelwarm,reducethespeedofthemixertolow.

If youare stillonmediumspeed, reduce the speed to low, thenadd thebuttera little at a time,allowingeachadditiontobeincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext(3).Whenallthebutterhasbeenadded, increase the speed tomediumandmix for 10minutes, oruntil thedough is glossy andsmooth.

Windowpanetest

Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(4).Ifyoucan’tseethroughit,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.

cookingtip:

LAnydoughenrichedwithbutterwillrequirethefattobeaddedlast.Gluten(theproteinintheflour)needswatertodevelopitselasticity,acrucialrequirementinyeasteddough,andthefatreducestheabilityfortheglutentoabsorbwater(whichiswhyweputthebutterinfirstfordoughssuchasshortbreadwhereelasticityisundesirable).So,forbriochedough,itisessentialtofirstaddthewater,whichallowstheglutenstrandstodevelopbeforeintroducingthebutter.

Firstprove

Removethedoughhookfromthemixer, thensprinklea little flouroverthedoughinthebowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize(1).

Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist,thenremoveasmuchgasasyoucanbyfoldingthedoughoverafewtimes.Placethedoughinanotherbowl,sprinklewitha little flour,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

Dividingandballingthedough

Allbreads(amelioratedornot)needtobedividedintotheappropriatesizeand‘balled’,aprocessaimed at tightening the dough prior to the final shaping of each individual product. This isespeciallyimportantwhenworkingwithsoft,butterydoughs,asithelpstolengthenthestrandsof

gluten(theproteininflour)weakenedbytheinherentfatcontentinthebriocheandincreasesthedough’selasticity,helpingittoretainitsshapeduringtheprovingprocess.

Removetheproveddoughfromthefridge.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,thenshapeitintoanevenlog—itdoesn’tmatterwhatsize,thisisjusttohelpyoucutevenportionsofdough.Use aplastic scraperor small knife to cut thedough into the sizeneeded (2). If youaremakingonesingleloaf,skipthiscuttingstep.

Removeanyexcessflourfromtheworksurface.Takeaportionofdoughinthecuppedpalmofyourhandandflattenslightly,thenbringtheoutsideedgesintothemiddleandpinchthecentretoseal (3).Turn theballoveranddrag thebaseover theworksurfaceseveral times (4)—thiswillensureanyairbubblestrappedinthemiddlearereleasedandyoudon’tendupwithabigholeinthemiddleofthebread.

Ifyouaremakingafullloaf,applythesameballingtechniqueasabove,butusethewholeamountofdough.Usebothyourhandstorunthedoughballovertheworksurface,tostretchthedoughandtightenupyourloaf.

Placetheballs,seam-sidedown,onalightlyflouredtray,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.

moreonproving:

LMostyeasteddoughsrequirestwoprovingstages.Thefirstproveisdesignedtokickstarttheeffectoftheyeast.Itshouldonlybeaverymoderateprove,becauseoverdoingyourpointage,orfirstprove,weakenstheproteinintheflourandaddsanundesirabletaste(ethanol).Afterknockingthedoughdownfollowingthefirstproveandrefrigeratingitovernight,thedoughisthenprovedagain,togiveittimetodevelopamorerefinedtextureandsmall,evenairpockets.Ifyouskipthesecondprovingstage,you’llendupwithasubstandardproduct,filledwithlargeairbubbles.

Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd ’oranges

(Candiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbrioche)Whenitcomestoanyfoodpreparedwithonlyafewingredients,theruleisthis:usegood-

qualityingredientsandletthemshine.Ifevertherewasaproductthatillustratesthisconcept,thenitisthebrioche.Floralaromassuchasorangeblossom,rosewaterorlavenderaddasubtlebutveryeffectivelayerofdimensiontoyourdough,andIthinktheseareperfectforaccentuatingtheunderlyingflavoursofthebriochewithoutoverdoingit.OrangeblossomwateriswidelyusedinsouthernFranceandthisbriocheinvariablyremindsmeofChristmas,whenIwasafifteen-year-oldapprenticegoingtoworkinthemiddleofthosebitterlycoldwinter’snights,thenwalkingintothekitchenandbeingenvelopedinawaveofhotorange-blossomsteamemanatingfromthehundredsoffreshlybaked,goldenbriochesdesrois.Allthechefswerethere,sittingsilentlyandblank-facedinfrontoftheovenstowarmup,sippingoncupsofstrongcoffeeastheycontemplatedyetanotherlong,harddayahead.

Makes12–13

note:Themethodformakingthedoughforthisbriocheisthesameasthebasicrecipe,butyouneedto

reducetheamountofwaterby20ml(½floz)andsubstituteitwiththeorangeblossomwater.Addthecandiedorangepeelattheendofthemixingprocess.

1kg(2lb4oz)BriocheDough

200g(7oz)good-qualitycandiedorangepeel,veryfinelychopped

pinchoffinesalt

LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LFollowingthedividingandballingsteps,dividethedoughintosmall80g(23/4oz)pieces,thenrollthepiecesintotightballs.Placethebriocheballsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalt

togetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashliberallyoverthetopofthebriocheballsthen,usingapairofscissorsdippedintheeggwash,makeasmallcrossinthetopofeachbrioche.Sprinkleliberallywithpearlsugar.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgolden.Transfertoawireracktocoolalittle,thenservewarmoratroomtemperature.Briochearebesteatenwithin1–2days.

Painperdu

(Frenchtoast)Theliteraltranslationofpainperduis‘lostbread’,anddescribesamethodofrecyclingday-old

breadintoapalatable,sweetdish.Todaywetendtotakeourdailyloafofbreadforgranted,butmanyyearsagowhenwheatwasscarceandbreadproductionrequiredanincredibleamountofwork,itwasunthinkablethataloafofbreadcouldeverbewasted,soitwasputtogooduseindishessuchasthis.Nowadays,Frenchtoastismadeoutofalmostanydough,frombreadtocroissants,anditisstillthebestwaytouseupyouroldpastries.Ihavedecidedtousebriocheherebecause,unlikebread,briochehasahighfatandeggcontent,soitislesslikelytobreakapartandremainssoftandsilkywhensoakedinmilk.

Serves6

500g(1lb2oz)BriocheDough

pinchoffinesalt

unsaltedbutter,forpan-frying

LLightlygreaseandfloura15x25cm(6x10in)loaf(bar)tin.Placethecolddoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanduseyourhandstoshapeitintoa25cm(10in)longroll.Don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtomaketherollsmoothandregular—overworkingyourdoughwillmakeitverysoftandstickyand,moreimportantly,weareonlyusingthisbriocheasslices,soitsinitialshapeisnotagreatconcern.Placetherollinthepreparedtin,coverwithadampclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Whenthebriochehasproved,removetheclothandcoverwithaheavybakingtray.Thisforcesthebriochetoriseevenlyintoaneatrectangle.Bakefor40minutes,thenremovethebriochefromtheoven,removethetrayfromthetop,thenturn

thetinupsidedownandremoveit.Returnthebriocheloaftotheoven(directlyontheovenrack)andbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilthebriocheisgoldenandspringsbacktothetouch.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforatleast2hours.Coolingitinthefridgewillhardenthefatinthebrioche,whichmakesiteasiertocutintoneatandregularslices.

LPutthemilk,sugarandvanillabeansandseedsinasaucepanandstircontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthemilkbeginstosimmer.Removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenpourthemilkintoaflat-bottomedbowl.Coolslightly,thenrefrigerateuntilcold.IliketousecoldmilkwhenmakingFrenchtoastwithfreshbrioche;however,ifyouareusingday-oldbriocheorotherbread,there’snoneedtorefrigeratethemilk,justleaveittocoolalittleinthebowlandusewarm.

LLightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinaseparateflat-bottomedbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Usingaserratedknife,cutthechilledbriocheinto4cm(1½in)thickslices.Soaktwoslicesofbreadinthesweetenedmilkforafewseconds,turningthebreadovertosoakontheothersideaswell(don’tsoaktheslicesfortoolongortheywillfallapartduringcooking).Transferthesoakedbreadtotheeggmixtureandsoakforafewsecondsonbothsides.

LHeatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverhighheat.Addasmallknobofbutterand,whenthebutterstartstofoam,addthesoakedbriocheandcookfor4minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcaramelised.Transfertoawirerack.Repeatwiththeremainingbrioche,milkandegg.Justbeforeserving,dusttheFrenchtoastwithicingsugar.Servewithfresh,tangyfruitssuchasberriesoradollopofGreek-styleyoghurt,tobalancethesweetnessofthetoast.

Youwillneedtovarytheamountofsugarintherecipeaccordingtothetypeofbreadyouareusing.Ifusingready-madebrioche,whichisalreadyquitesweet,followtherecommendedamountgivenintherecipe;however,ifusingcroissantsoranunsweetenedbread,increasethesugarcontentofyourmilkrecipebyabout50g(13/4oz)to150g(5½oz).

Beignetsàlacannelle

(Cinnamondoughnuts)Thewordbeignetcanberoughlytranslatedas‘fritter’,agenerictermreferringtoadeep-fried

dough,andwhileitistraditionallymadefromfriedchouxpastry,theycanbemadefromalmostanydough,fromsweetbreadmadewitholiveoil(chichiaupommes)tobriochemadewithbutter(beignetitalien),orevenfromcroissantdough.

AlthoughIhaveincludedafewdifferentvariationsoffrittersinthisbook,briochedoughnutsarebyfarthebest,especiallywhenitcomestoplainsugardoughnuts.IfyouhaveeverbeentothebeachesinthesouthofFranceduringsummer,youwouldhaveinvariablybeenapproachedbyovertannedvendorscarryinglargecanebaskets,spruikingtheirappledoughnutsandcaramelisedpeanuts.Therereallyisnothingquitelikesittinginthesandinapairofglorifiedunderpants,munchingintoasoft,butterydoughnut,withthesmellofiodineandcoconutoilintheair!

Makes10–12

2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

1litre(35floz)canolaoil,fordeep-frying

Briochedough

2teaspoonsfinesalt

15g(½oz)driedyeast

175ml(5½floz)coldfull-creammilk

2teaspoonsnaturalvanillaextract

75g(23/4oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

LTomakethebriochedough,puttheflour,sugar,salt,eggsandyeastintothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.

Addthemilk,vanillaandlemonzestandcombine,thenaddthebutter,followingthemethodtomakethedough(totheendofthefirstprove).Theamountofbutterusedforthisrecipehasbeendrasticallyreducedfromthebasicrecipe,soitwillcookthroughmorequickly,andtooffsetsomeoftheadditionalfatthatisabsorbedduringthefryingprocess.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LFollowingthedividingandballingsteps,dividethecolddoughintosmall70g(2½oz)pieces,thenrollthemintotightballs.Placethebriocheballsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPutthesugar,cinnamonandvanillabeanseedsinabowlandmixthoroughlybyrubbingthemixturebetweenthepalmsofyourhands.Thisensuresthevanillaseedsinfuseproperlyintothesugarandcinnamon.Setaside.

LHeattheoilinadeep-fryerorheavy-basedsaucepanto170°C(340°F).Workinginbatches,usethepalmofyourhandtogentlyflatteneachdoughballbeforegentlyslidingitintothehotoil.Beextremelycarefulnottodropthedoughballsfromaheightoryouwillsplashyourselfwithhotoil.Don’tfrytoomanyballsatonceortheoiltemperaturewilldropandthedoughnutswillabsorbtoomuchoil.Fryonesideforabout30seconds,thenflipthemoverandcookforanother1minute,oruntilgolden.Flipthembackagaintofinishcookingthefirstside.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Tossthehotdoughnutsinthecinnamonsugarandserve.

servingtip

These cinnamondoughnuts can be served as they are, or filledwith a custard such as crèmepâtissière, strawberry jamor hazelnut and chocolatespread,aspicturedhere.Spoonthefillingintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzle.Usethetipofthenozzletopokeasmallholeinthesideofthedoughnut,thenpipethefillingintothecentre.

Painsauxraisins

(Snails)Nottobeconfusedwiththemuchmaligned,butnonethelessdelicious,garlicsnail,thesesnails

(theliteraltranslationisraisinbread)areadeliciousviennoiseriemadefromabutteredpastrydough,custardandsultanas,rolledtogetherintoatightlyspiralledbun.EveryregionofFrancehasitspreferenceastowhattypeofdoughtheyuse,fromtherichandflakycroissantdoughusedinthesouth,tothefluffybriocheinthenorth.Althoughapainauxraisinsalwaysrelatestoacustardandraisinfilling,youwillfindasimilar-lookingproductcalledaroulade,whichcomeswithanalmostinfinitecombinationoffillings,frompistachioandchocolatetopralineandchocolate.

Inkeepingwiththeunderlyingphilosophyofthisbook,thisclassicsnailrecipeissimplyablueprintforyoutoexperimentwithdifferenttypesoffillingsandtexturalcombinations,fromalmondcreamsorcrushednuts,tofreshfruitsandexoticspices.Whateverfillingyouchoose,youwill(hopefully)alwaysendupwithafantasticallymoistanddeliciouspastry.

Makes10

500g(1lb2oz)BriocheDough

250g(9oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)orraisins

50ml(13/4floz)rum

350g(12oz)coldCustard

80ml(23/4floz)coldwhippingcream(35%fat)

pinchoffinesalt

LYouwillalsoneedtorehydrateyoursultanasorraisinsthedaybefore.Putthesultanasinaheatproofbowl.Putthevanillabeans,rumand500ml(17floz)waterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Pouroverthesultanas,thenimmediatelycoverwithplasticwrap.Setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthecustardonmediumspeedfor1minute,thenaddthecreamandbeatuntilsmoothandshiny.Mixinginthecoldcream

helpspreventthemixturefromsettingagain.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Ifyouarenotveryexperiencedwithrollingdough,youcandividethebriochedoughinhalftomakelifealittleeasier.Briocheissofterandstickierthanmostotherbreaddoughs,includingcroissantdough,soyouwillneedtouseabitmoreflourandtrytobequick!Rolloutthecoldbriochedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoarectangleabout3mm(1/8in)thick.Ifnecessary,stretchthedoughusingyourhandstoachievearectangularshape.Asaguide,theshapeshouldbetwiceaslongasitiswide—about15x30cm(6x12in).

LUsingaspatula,spreadthecustardoverthedough,righttotheedges.Don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtoachieveaperfectlysmooth,evenlayerofcustard,asyourpriorityistoworkfastwhilethebriocheisstillcoldandfirm.Drainthesultanaswell,thensprinklethemevenlyoverthecustard.Startingfromonelongside,rollthedoughintoatight,longroll.Therollshouldbe6–7cm(2½–23/4in)indiameter;ifitisanybigger,useyourhandstogentlystretchitoutuntilyoureachtherightthickness.Usingalargeknife,cuttherollinto3cm(1¼in)thickslicesandplaceonthelinedtrays,spacingtheslicesabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyhalf.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsaltinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Whentherollshaveproved,brushthemliberallywiththeeggwash.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandtransfertowirerackstocool.Dependingonthesizeofyourovenandhowmanytraysyoucanbakeatonetime,keepyourunbakedsnailsinthefridge,tostopthemoverprovingwhiletheyarewaitingtogointotheoven.

Bakersandpastrychefsroutinelyaddasmallamountofalcoholtotheircreamsandpastries,tohelpreducetheperceivedsweetness(suchasthesultanasusedhere)orfattinessofaningredientorcream.Don’tbeconcernedaboutthealcoholcontent,becausemostofthealcoholwillevaporateduringthebakingprocessoncethetemperaturereaches78°C(172°F).Whenmakingganachesandcreams,alwaysmakesureyouaddanyliquorstoboilingliquids.

P izzasbanane-chocolat

(Chocolateandbananapizzas)Iknowwhatyou’rethinking…thissoundsmorelikethelatestgimmickfromalargefast-food

pizzaconglomeratethanatypicalprovincialFrenchrecipe.Itmaysoundunusual,butIhaveactuallyseenachocolatepizzalistedonthemenuofalargepizzachainrestaurant,aswellasmacarons,crèmebrûlée,flansandmanyotherFrenchspecialtiesthatyouwouldn’texpecttofind.Infact,makingapizzaoutofbriochedoughleftovershasbeenacommonpracticeforcenturies.Today,thesesweetpizzasaretypicallysoldfromsmallvendorstallsatlocalmarketsorfairs,adornedwithfreshseasonalfruitsorchocolate-hazelnutpaste.

Makes2

250g(9oz)BriocheDough

2largeripebananas

50g(13/4oz)caster(superfine)sugar

100g(3½oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),finelychopped

80ml(23/4oz)whippingcream(35%fat)

LDividethebriochedoughinhalf,thenrolleachportionoutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa15cm(6in)round.Placeonalargebakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper,thencoverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize.

LMeanwhile,cutthebananasinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Putthesugarandhalfofthebutterinalargefryingpanandcookovermediumheatuntilthebutterhasmelted.Addtheslicedbananasinasinglelayerandcookfor3–5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Turnthebananasoverandcookuntilgoldenontheotherside,thenremovefromthepanandplaceinasinglelayeronaplatetocool.

LPutthechocolateandtheremainingbutterinasmallsaucepanandstiroververylowheatuntilmeltedandsmooth.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Whenthedoughhasproved,useyourfingertipstomakesmallcratersalloverthepizzabases;thispreventsthecreamfromrunningoffthepizzaduringbaking.Arrangethecaramelisedbananasevenlyoverthetopofthepizzas.

LBakefor10minutes,thenopentheoven,slideoutthepizzasonthetrayanddrizzlethecreamoverthetop.Bakeforanother10minutes,oruntilgoldenandbubbling.Ifthepizzatopscaramelisebeforethebasesarecooked,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil;thiswilldeflecttheheatfromthetopandstopthecaramelisation.Removefromtheoven,drizzlewiththemeltedchocolatemixtureandserveimmediately.

Asanalternative,youcanreplace thebananaswithpears,andthechocolatewithahazelnutspread.Other flavourcombinationsyoumight likeareapple,rhubarbandalmondcream;orhoney,ricottacheeseandorangezest.

Pastislandais

(Frenchpanettone)NottobeconfusedwiththealcoholicbeveragefromProvenceofthesamename,thepastis

referredtointhisbriochemeans‘cake,’atranslationofthelocaldialectofLandesdeGascogne,aregioninthesouth-westofFrance.Unliketheotherbriochesinthischapter,pastislandaisismadeusingapoolishstarter,amethodtraditionallyusedinthemanufactureofsemi-sourbreads,someofwhichareincludedinthebreadchapter.Whilealittlemorecomplicatedtomake,briochesurpoolisharewellworththeadditionaleffort.Withtheirdense,creamytextureandslighttouchofsourness,theyhavetheaddedadvantageofstayingsoftforfarlongerthantheirtraditionalyeast-provedcousins.ThisrecipeisactuallyalmostidenticaltothefamedItalianChristmasbrioche,panettone,butdoesn’tcontainanyofthecandiedfruitsandraisinstypicallyused—justlotsofbutterandeggs,agenerousdashoforangeblossomwater,andsomerumforgoodmeasure.

Makes1largeor18small

pinchoffinesalt

Poolish

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

10g(¼oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)tepidwater

Brioche

40ml(1¼floz)rum

40ml(1¼floz)orangeblossomwater

3teaspoonsfinesalt

130g(4½oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

LTomakethepoolish,puttheflour,yeastandtepidwaterinabowlandstiruntilasoft,stickypasteforms.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LTomakethebriochedough,putthemilk,vanillabeans,rumandsugarinasaucepanandstirovermediumheatfor2–3minutes,oruntilwarm,thenremovefromtheheat.Thisprocessisonlymeanttodissolvethesugarandsoftenthevanillabeans,sodon’tbetemptedtobringittotheboil.Removethevanillabeansandusethebackofasmallknifetoscrapetheseedsout.Addtheseedstothemilkanddiscardthebeans,thenstirintheorangeblossomwaterandsetaside.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whisktheeggsonmediumspeedfor2minutes,oruntilthemixturebeginstofoam.Reducethespeedtolowandgraduallyaddthetepidmilk.Becareful;ifthemilkishotterthan65°C(150°F)theeggswillcook,sotoensureitisattherighttemperature,dipyourfingerintothemilkfor30seconds—ifitistoohotforyou,itistoohotfortheeggs!

LStillonlowspeed,addtheprovedpoolishandmixuntilwellcombined.Swapthewhiskforthedoughhookattachment,thenaddtheflourandsaltandmixforanother2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandknead,scrapingthesideofthebowloccasionally,for10–12minutes,oruntilsmoothandglossy.Addthemeltedbutterandcontinuemixingonlowspeed,scrapingthesideofthebowl,untilfullycombined.Coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2–3hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LScrapethedoughoutofthebowlontoagenerouslyflouredworksurface.Knockoutasmuchgasasyoucanbypunchingdownthedough,thenfoldthesidesovertothemiddle,dustingwithextraflourwhennecessary.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Greaseadeep12x26cm(4½x10½in)caketinoruse18individualpanettoneormuffinpapercups(thesearesturdyanddon’tneedtositinatin).Unliketraditionalbrioche,thisdoughisalotsofterandcannotbeballedintoshape.Todivide,simplysoakyourhandsincoldwaterandshakeofftheexcesswater,thentakeasmallhandfulofdoughanddropitinthepreparedtinormuffincasesuntiltwo-thirdsfull.Youcanuseanymould,tinorpapercup,butneverfillthemhigherthantwo-thirdsorthebriochewilloverflowduringbaking.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2–3hours,oruntilthedoughhasreachedthetopofthetinorpapercups.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofthebrioche,then,usingapairofscissorsdippedineggwash,cutacrossshapeabout2cm(3/4in)deeponthetop.Sprinklewithpearlsugarandbakefor45minutesforalargebrioche,or20–25minutesforindividualbrioches.Removefromtheovenandplaceonawireracktocool.Ifyouhavebakedthebriocheinatin,removeitfromthetinasearlyaspossible,butdon’tburnyourselfintheprocess.

‘Withbread,allsorrowsareless.’

DONQUIXOTE,MIGUELDECERVANTES

Paindecampagne(Countrybread)

(Breads)

Whilenotallofthelocalspecialtiesincludedinthisbookhaveenjoyedthesamelevelofglobalrecognitionasthecroissantorlemontart,theyarenonethelessbasedonage-oldrecipesthathave,overtheyears,cementedthemselvesdeeplyinthelocalgastronomicpsyche.Noneofthem,however,willeverachievethenotorietythatbreadhasenjoyed.BreadissomuchapartoftheFrenchgastronomicandculturallandscapethatit’seasytoforgetthat,forthousandsofyears,peoplefromeverycivilisationaroundtheworldhaveincludedbread,inoneformoranother,asanintegralpartoftheirdailydiet.Itistrulyremarkablethatsuchaseeminglysimpleconcoctionhasnotonlywithstoodthetestoftime,butalsomanagedtoplaysuchacrucialroleinthedevelopmentofsomanycivilisations.

Itiseasytooverlookthefactthatthehumbleloafofbreadwejustboughtfromanartisanbakeristheresultofyearsofpracticewithcountlesstrialsanderrors.Moreimportantly,therecipesusedtomakethesebreadshaveoftenbeenperfected,sometimesovergenerations,basedonthebakery’sownclimaticenvironment,localingredientsandequipment.Thatbeingsaid,makingbreadisanincrediblyrewardingexercisethatcanbeenjoyedbythewholefamily,andprovidingthatyoustartatthebeginningandtakethetimetofamiliariseyourselfwiththesubtletiesofyouringredientsandequipment,yourbread-makingjourneywillrewardyouwithsomeofthesamesimplepleasuresthatpeoplehaveenjoyedforsomanyyears.

Nowadays,therearecountlesstypesofbread,eachwiththeirownflavourandtextureprofiles,varyingdegreesofdifficultyandtimelineconstraints.Tosimplifythings,Ihavedividedbreadsintothreebasiccategories.

Painméthodedirecte(Bread,directmethod):

Thisisbyfarthesimplestandmostpopularmethodofmakingbread.Itreliesentirelyontheadditionofyeastforthefermentationprocess(proving).Thisisanidealmethodforamateurbakerstouse,becauseitisverypredictable,fastandalmostfailproof.Breadsmadewiththismethod,suchasthebaguette,areusuallyverylightandairy,withathin,crispycrust,buttheyhaveashortshelflifeanddon’thavethesamedepthofflavourasbreadsmadeusingtheothermethods.

Thetasteandtextureofbreadsmadeusingthedirectprovingmethodcanbefurtherimprovedbyreducingtheamountofyeast,butthisprocesswilldramaticallylengthentheprovingprocessandthebreadswillbemuchmorevulnerabletoenvironmentalfactorssuchasvariationsintemperatureorhumidity(formoreinformationonyeast).

Painsurpoolish(Semi-sourdoughbread):

Thisismyfavouritemethod.Thisbreadreliesontheadditionofapoolish,averylightlyyeastedlevain(starter)foritsfermentationprocess.Itisstillveryquicktoprove,butitproducesabreadthatismore‘creamier’andfull-bodied,withalightsourtangandcrunchycrust.Thismethodisusuallycalledàl’ancienne,probablyduetoitsmorerusticappearanceandgivesyouthebestofbothworlds—aquickandpredictablefermentingprocessandabeautifullycrispyandtastyloaf.

Thepoolishisapre-fermentmethodroutinelyusedinFranceforthemanufactureofanythingyeasted,frombriochetocroissants,breadstofougasse.Personally,Ithinktheslightlyheaviercrumbandsourtastethatyougetwhenusingthismethodisbettersuitedtorusticbreadloavesmoresothansubtleviennoiseriessuchascroissantsorbrioche,wheretheaddedsourness,howeversmall,detractsfromtheirwonderfullybutteryundertonesandfluffiness.Onceagain,it’sapersonalpreferenceandfirstandforemost,thepoolishmethodisagreatwaytogentlytransitionintothecomplexworldofbacterialfermentationanditswonderfulflavoursandtextures.

Painaulevain(Fullsourdoughbread):

Makingbreadwithafulllevain(starter)wastheonlymethodavailableuntiltheinventionofcommercialyeastearlyinthetwentiethcentury.Thefermentationprocessreliesonalevainchef,apre-fermentmadeofflourandwaterwithoutadditionofyeast,

whichhasbeenlefttoageoverfourorfivedays.Makingfullsourdoughbreadrequirestime,patience(fivedaysforthepre-fermentandupto20hoursproving),dedicationand,mostimportantofall,aheavyfirebrickoven.Breadsmadewithafullstarterwilltendtohaveadenserandmuchsourercrumbandachewiercrust.

Ihavebeenfortunateenoughtohaveworkedwithsomeamazingbakers,bothinFranceandAustralia,overthecourseofmycareerandIamyettotastean‘OK’loafoffullsourdoughbread.Loavesthatrelyentirelyonalevaincheffortheirfermentationsareeitheramazingorjustplainbad,andwhenconsideringthefactthatmosthomebakerswon’thaveaccesstotheequipmentrequiredtomakeasuccessfulloaf,theinevitableconclusionisthatyouwillmostlikelybedisappointedwiththeresult.Iamawarethatthisisprobablygoingtogetmeintrouble,butItrulybelievethatcookbooksshouldbemotivationaltools,aimedatgraduallybuildingtheskillsandconfidenceoftheirreadersbyprovidingachievablegoals,takingintoaccountthelevelofskillrequiredandthetypeofequipmentrequired.

Consequently,Ihavechosentoincludeonlythequickandalmostfailproofbreadrecipesthatarebasedonthedirectandsemi-sourdoughmethods.Ifeeltheserecipesareeasilyachievableforthehomecookandwillhopefullyprovideyouwiththeskillsandconfidencetoexperimentwithmoretechnicallychallengingsourdoughsinthefuture.

Allfermentsarenotcreatedequal

Nottoputtoofineapointonmyreluctancetoincludefullsourdoughsinthisbook…but,rememberthatyeastsandbacteriaareallaroundus—inthewaterandair—andinalltheingredientsusedinthemanufactureofthebread.Assuch,eachlevainwillfermentbasedonitsownindigenousyeastandbacterialcontent,sothereforearecipedesignedinFrancewillnottasteorprovewiththesamecharacteristicsasonemadeanywhereelse.

Painméthodedirecte

(Bread,directmethod)Practical,fastandalmostfailproof,thedirectmethodisthebestwaytostartyourbread-baking

journey.Thesebreads,withtheirthincrispycrust,whitecrumbandrelativelymildflavour,haveamuchbroaderappealinFrancethanthemorepungentsourbreads,whichtendtooverpowerthesubtletiesofthefoodtheyaresupposedtocomplement.Thefollowingstepswillclarifyhowtokneadyourdoughand,justasimportantly,howtoshapeit.

Makes800g(1lb12oz)

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

350ml(12floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

8g(¼oz)driedyeast

10g(¼oz)finesalt

Makingthedough

BymixerUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhook,mixtheflourand300ml(10½floz)ofthecoldwateronlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilaroughdoughforms.Coverthebowlwithacleandampclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes(seetip).

Puttheyeastandtheremainingwaterinasmallbowlandwhiskuntilfullydissolved.Addtothehydrateddough,thenaddthesaltandkneadonlowspeedfor10minutes.Increasethespeedtomediumandknead for another2minutes,oruntil thedough is smoothandelastic andcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Becarefulnottooverheatthedough;regularlycheckforanysignofheatbytestingitwiththebackofyourindexfinger.Stopkneadingif thedoughfeels likeit iswarmingup.Shapethedoughintoaball.

ByhandPuttheflourontheworksurfaceandmakeawellinthemiddle.Slowlyadd300ml(10½floz)ofthewater(photo1).Usingyourfingertips,starttoincorporatetheflourintothewater(2).Atthisstage,don’tworryifsomeofthewaterescapesfromthewell;simplyscrapeitbackinsideyour flourwell and continue incorporating and binding the dough together.Using the heel ofyourhand,pressthedoughroughlytogether(3),thencoverwithadampclothandrestfor35–40minutes(seetip).

Shapethedoughintoadiscwithslightlyelevatedsides.Puttheyeastandremainingwaterintoasmallbowlandwhiskuntilfullydissolved(4).Pourthedissolvedyeastontothedough(5), thenaddthesaltandgentlypullthesidesofthedoughtowardsthemiddle(6)toincorporatetheliquid

into thedough.At this stage thedoughwillbesoftand tacky, sobegin thekneadingprocessbygentlypushingthedoughacrosstheworksurfacewiththepalmofyourhand,foldingthedoughoveritself(7)untilitbecomesmoreelastic.Then,pushthedoughawayfromyouwiththeheelofyourhandandbring theoutside edgesof thedough towards themiddle (8), until thedough issmoothandstopssticking.Thisprocessshouldtake15–20minutes.Shapethedoughintoaball(9).

Windowpanetest

Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(photo4).Ifnot,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.

cookingtip:

LAftertheflourandwaterhavebeenkneaded,thedoughmustbelefttorest.Thiscrucialstepis‘autolyse’andisdesignedtohydratetheflourandimproveglutendevelopment.Doughkneadedwithoutthisstepwillneedalongermixingtime,whichoftenleadstoaweakeningoftheyeast.

Firstprove

Placethedoughinalightlyflouredbowlandcoverwithacloth.Setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyhalf.Thetimethistakeswilldependonthetemperatureofthedoughandyourkitchen.

Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist,thenremoveasmuchgasasyoucanbyfoldingthedoughoverafewtimes.Thisfirstprove(pointage)isanessentialpartoftheleaveningprocessandislargelydesignedtorefinethefinaltextureofthebread.Duringthisstage,theyeastfungi are still relatively clumped together andwill create large bubbles of gas (carbon dioxide),resultinginanirregularbreadstuddedwithlargeholes.Theprocessofknockingthedoughdownis largelyaimedatspreadingthefungiaroundthedough,resultinginabreadwithadenserandmorerefinedtexture.

Dividingandballingthedough

Allbreadsneedtobedividedintotheappropriatesizeand‘balled’,aprocessaimedattighteningthedoughprior to the final shapingofeach individualproduct. (Doughs for flatbreads suchaspizzaandfougassedonotneed‘balling’,asthiswilldevelopthegluten,makingitdifficulttorollthedoughout flat.)Although it is difficult to accurately describe the balling techniqueusedbyprofessionalbakers,aslongasyouknowthattheaimoftheprocessistostretchtheglutenratherthanmakeaniceroundball,yourtechniquewilldevelopwithexperience.

Place the dough on a lightly flouredwork surface and shape it into an even log (photo1) — itdoesn’tmatterwhatsize,thisisjusttohelpyoucutevenportionsofdough.Useaplasticscraperorsmallknifetocutthedoughintothesizeneeded(2). Ifyouaremakingonesingle loaf,skipthiscuttingstep.

Removeanyexcessflourfromtheworksurface.Takeaportionofdoughinthecuppedpalmofyourhandandflattenslightly,thenbringtheoutsideedgesintothemiddleandpinchtoseal(3).Turntheballoveranddragthebaseovertheworksurfaceseveraltimes(4)—thiswillensureanyairbubblestrappedinthemiddlearereleasedandyoudon’tendupwithabigholeinthemiddleofthebread.

Ifyouaremakingafullloaf,applythesameballingtechniqueasabove,butusethewholeamountofdough.Usebothyourhandstorunthedoughballovertheworksurface,tostretchthedoughandtightenupyourloaf.

Placetheballs,seamsidedown,onalightlyflouredtray,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.

moreonyeast:

LTounderstandthecorrelationbetweenthedosageofyeastandflavour,youneedtounderstandhowdoughferments.Yeasteddoughsrelymainlyonfungustometabolisesugarsintogases(carbondioxideandethanol),whicharethentrappedbytheglutenduringbaking.Thesegases,alongwithsteam,helpthedoughtorise.

Thesournessanddepthofflavouraretheresultofaslowbacterialprocessthatturnssugarintolactic

acidandasmallamountofcarbondioxideandethanol.Thelessyeastyouaddtoadough,thelongerthedoughwilltaketoprove,andthereforethemoretimeforlacticacidtobuildup.Thiswillresultinabreadwithamorecomplexflavourandcreamierflesh.So,ifyoupreferabreadwithslightundertonesofsourness(butarenotyetconfidentwiththeprocessofpre-fermentationneededforsemi-orsourdoughbreads)andhavealotmoretimeonyourhands,simplyreducetheinitialamountofyeast.Asanapproximateguideline,every1g(1/32oz)reductioninyeastwillincreasetheprovingtimebyanhour.

provingtimes:

flour yeast firstprove500g(1lb2oz) 8g 1hour500g(1lb2oz) 7g 2hours500g(1lb2oz) 6g 3hours500g(1lb2oz) 5g 4hours

Painsurpoolish

(Semi-sourdoughbread)AsImentionedearlier,thisismyfavouritemethodofmakingbread.Painssurpoolishare

breadsthatrelyonacombinationofyeastandpre-fermentfortheirfermentationprocess.Thedifferenceisthatunlikethepuresourferment,thepoolishitselfcontainsasmallamountofyeast,whichwillnotonlygiveyouabutteryandlightcrumb,acrispcrustandabeautifulsubtlesourness,butalsoafasterandmoreconsistentfermentationprocess.

Makes500g(1lb2oz)

note:Thismethodisdoneintwostages:firstthepoolish,whichwillneedtofermentovernight,andthenthe

finaldough.

Poolish

1g(1/32oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

200g(7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

Makingthepoolishanddough

Tomakethepoolish,puttheyeastandcoldwaterinamediumbowlandstiruntilfullydissolved.Add the flourandwhiskgentlyuntil a soft, stickypaste forms.Thisprocess is extremely simpleandaslongastheflouriswetandtheyeasthasdissolved,itisalwaysgoingtowork.Coverwithaclothorplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.Alternatively,ifyouareinahurry,leavethepoolishat room temperature for 3 hours, or until it triples in volume. The following day, remove thepoolishfromthefridge.Bynowitshouldhavetripledinsize(photo1).

Tomakethedough,puttheflour,coldwater,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment(2)andmixonlowspeedfor10minutes.

Addthepoolish(3), increasethespeedtomediumandkneadforanother5–6minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl(4).

Windowpanetest

Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(photo4).Ifnot,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.

Provingthedough

Remove thedoughhook anddust a little flourover thedough, then coverwith a cloth and setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes.Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownbyusingyourhandtopushthemiddleofthedoughdown,thenfoldthesidestowardsthecentretoremoveasmuchgasaspossible.

Coverandsetasideforanother45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize,thenknockthedoughdownagain.Thedoughisnowreadytobedividedandballed.

Michetraditionnelleauxnoixetauxraisins

(Traditionalwalnutandraisinloaf)Thisisagreatrecipetostartwith.Thisbasicmethodisidealifyouhaven’tpreparedapoolish

thedaybeforeandwanttobakealoaforsmallbreadrollsfordinnerorapicnicatshortnotice.Inafewhoursyouwillhaveabeautifullycrustyloafwithasoft,airycrumbthatisjustasdelicioustoastedwithbutterandjamasitisservedwithcheesesorliverparfaits.

Makes1loaf

800g(1lb12oz)BreadDough,directmethod

100g(3½oz)walnuts,lightlyroasted

100g(3½oz)raisinsorsultanas(goldenraisins)

spraybottlefilledwithwarmwater

LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthe‘windowpane’test.Withthedoughstillinthebowloftheelectricmixer(fittedwithadoughhookattachment),addthewalnutsandraisinsandmixonlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntilevenlydispersed.Followthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.

LTransferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandproceedwiththeballingprocess.Linealargebowl,about25cm(10in)indiameter,withalightlyflouredcloth.Gentlytipthedoughupsidedownintothelinedbowlsothatthebottomoftheloaffacesup.Coverwithanotherlightlyflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–1½hours,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifthedoughisready,gentlypushitwiththepalmofyourhand;itshouldfeelsoftbutthedoughshouldstillspringbacktoitsoriginalshape.Ifthedoughfeelshardanddense,itisnotready.

LPreheattheovento240°C(465°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Holdthebowlwithonehandandresttheotherhandgentlyontopofthedoughwithyourfingersspreadapart,thencarefullytipthedoughontoalightlyflouredbakingtray.Dustalittleflouroverthetopofthedough.Usingasharpparingknife,cutacrossinthetopoftheloaf.

LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor20–25minutes.Tocheckifthebreadisready,opentheovendoorandtapthecrustwithyourindexfinger.Thebreadisreadywhenthecrustfeelshardandtheloafsoundshollowanddry.Removefromtheovenandsetasideforatleast5

minutesbeforeslicing,orthesteamthatistrappedinsidetheloafmayburnyou.

scoringtheloaves

Traditionallybreadisbakeddirectlyonthebricksonthebaseoftheovenandtheintenseheatgeneratedfromthebottomformsathickskin,forcingthesteamupwardsthroughthethinnerskinonthetop(thereis lessheatinthetopoftheoven).Inconvection(fan-forced)andstaticovenstheheatisdispersedevenlyaroundtheoven,sotheskinthickensuniformlyaroundtheloaf,trappingthesteamandturningitintotheshapeofafootball.Scoringtheloafpriortobakingweakenstheskinandallowsthesteamtoescapesothebreadretainsitsshapeduringbaking.

Paindecampagne

(Countrybread)Thepaindecampagneistheiconofruralbaking,andwhilethisrusticbreadhasenjoyeda

trendyresurgenceinthelastfewyears,itisstillbestenjoyedwithaheartysouporstewduringthoselongwinternights,deepinthecountryside.

Makes1loaf

Poolish

50g(13/4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

50g(13/4oz)ryeflour

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod,addingintheryeflourwiththeplainflour.Coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.Tomakethedough,followthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.

LTransferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandproceedwiththeballingprocess.Linealargebowl,about25cm(10in)indiameter,withalightlyflouredcloth.Gentlytipthedoughupsidedownintothelinedbowlsothatthebottomoftheloaffacesup.Coverwithanotherlightlyflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifthedoughisready,gentlypushitwiththepalmofyourhand;itshouldfeelsoftbutthedoughshouldstillspringbacktoitsoriginalshape.Ifthedoughfeelshardanddense

itisnotready.

LPreheattheovento230°C(445°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Holdthebowlwithonehandandresttheotherhandgentlyontopofthedoughwithyourfingersspreadapart,thencarefullytipthedoughontoalightlyflouredbakingtray.Dustalittleflouroverthetopofthedough.Usingasharpparingknife,cutacrossinthetopoftheloaf.

LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor20–25minutes.Tocheckifthebreadisready,opentheovendoorandtapthecrustwithyourindexfinger.Thebreadisreadywhenthecrustfeelshardandtheloafsoundshollowanddry.Removefromtheovenandsetasideforatleast5minutesbeforeslicing,orthesteamthatistrappedinsidetheloafmayburnyou.

Whyrye?Ryeflourwasusedextensivelyinthepastduetoitsrelativelylowcostofprocessingandstrongresiliencetowinterconditions.Nowadays,ryeflourisaddedtosemi-sourorsourdoughbreadsfortwomainreasons.Firstly,itcontainslessglutenthanwheatandisthereforelessproficientatretainingthegascreatedduringthefermentationprocess,whichgivesthebreadadenserfleshwithsmallerholes,thushelpingextenditsshelflife.Secondly,itcontainsmoresolublesugarsthanwheatandthereforefermentsfaster.

Fougasseauxolives

(Provençalolivebread)WhilstfougasseauxolivesiscommonlyfoundinProvencetodayinitsdistinctivewheatkernel

shape,verymuchlikethefabledpompeàl’huile,similarbreadsarefoundallaroundtheMediterraneanbasin,fromItaly(focaccia)totheBalkans(pogaca).Fougasseisaverysimplebreadmadeusingthedirectmethod,withaddedoil,sugarorbutter.Traditionallyitwastoppedwithvegetablesorfruitsandwasmadeatthestartofthenightandthrownintotheoventoassesstheaccuracyofthetemperatureoftheoven.

Makes1loaf

50ml(13/4floz)full-creammilk

2teaspoonsfleurdesel,orothersaltflakes(donotusefinesalt)

350g(12oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

70ml(2¼floz)virginoliveoil

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

100g(3½oz)pittedblackorgreenolives,coarselychopped

LTomakethedough,puttheflour,water,oliveoil,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor8–10minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.Addthechoppedolivesandkneadgentlywithonehanduntiltheolivesareevenlydispersedthroughthedough.

LPlacethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,thensprinklealittleextraflouroverthe

top.Usingyourpalms,flattenthedoughintoa2cm(3/4in)thickrectangle.Don’tworryaboutmakingittooeven,asthisbreadissupposedtolookrustic.Transfertoalightlyflouredbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F)foratleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Usingasmall,sharpknife,cutfourdiagonalincisionsonbothsidesofthedoughtoresembleawheatkernel.Brushthetopwiththemilk,thensprinklewiththesaltandthymeleaves.

LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilthetopofthefougassebeginstobrown.Unlikeotherloavesorrollsthataremadeusingthesamedough,thethinshapeofthefougassemeansitcooksalotfaster,sokeepaneyeonit—oneofthemaincharacteristicsoffougasseisitslightcolour.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcool.

addingsteam

Addingsteamto theoven isbeneficial for two reasons.Firstly,humiditydelays thedryingupof thedough’s skinand thishelps thebreaddevelopproperly.Secondly,thewaterintheoven(assteam)willgelatinisethestarchintheflour,whichgivesthefinishedbreadaglossycrust.

P issaladière

(Onionandanchovyfocaccia)PissaladièreisaniconicfougassefromNice,inthesouthofFrance.Oftenmistakenlycalleda

pizza,itisactuallymadeonathickbreadorafougassebase—unlikepizzaswhicharetraditionallybakedonathinandcrispydough—andthentoppedwithasmallamountofanchovypasteandathicklayerofconfitonions.Evenif,likeme,you’renotafanofanchovies,thiswilltakeyoubysurprise.It’slight,justsweetandjustsaltyenough,ittastesliketheearthandtheseaallatonce,anditwillleaveyouwithanosefullofnuttyandfruityaromas.Nothingtastesquiteasgoodaseatingapissaladièrewithaglassofredwine,lounginginalongchairunderashadytree,justbeforetakinganap.

Serves4–6

50ml(13/4floz)virginoliveoil

1kg(2lb4oz)brownonions,thinlysliced

salt,totaste

100g(3½oz)anchovypaste(soldinjarsortubes)

100g(3½oz)smallblackolives,pitted

6–8anchovyfillets

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

LTomakethedough,puttheflourandmilkinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Mixonlowspeedforabout5minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Coverthebowlwithacleandampclothandsetasidetorestfor40minutes.

LAddthesugar,butter,yeastandsalttothehydrateddoughandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadforabout10minutes,oruntilthedoughbeginstobindaroundthedoughhookandstartstocomeawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Coverthebowlwithaflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.Knockthedoughdown,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours,oruntilfirmtothetouch.

LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa5mm(¼in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout20x30cm(8x12in).Feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthedoughintoshape.Placeonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaperandfreezefor1hour,oruntilfirm.

LMeanwhile,heattheoliveoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatfor1minute.Addtheonionsandpepperandcombinewell.Reducetheheattomedium,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionally,for20–25minutes,oruntiltheonionsaregoldenandsoftenedalmosttoapurée.Removefromtheheat,seasonwithjustalittlesalt,rememberingtheanchovypasteisalreadyquitesalty,andsetasideuntilcool.

LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Removethedoughfromthefreezerandspreadtheanchovypasteevenlyoverthetop.Theanchovypastebalancesoutthesweetnessoftheonions,butcanveryquicklyoverpowertherestoftheflavours,somakesureitisappliedverythinly.Scatteroverthecaramelisedonionsandtheolives,thenarrangetheanchoviesevenlyacrossthetop.

LSetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor30minutes,oruntilthedoughbeginstoriseagain.Bakefor20minutes,oruntilthebottomofthepissaladièrebeginstobrown.Removefromtheoven,scatterwiththymeandcooltoroomtemperature,thencutintosquaresandserve.

Fougasseausucre

(Sugarfougasse)Baking,atleastforme,isnotsomuchabouthowintricateacertainpastryisorhowrusticaloaf

ofbreadlooks—itgoesfarbeyondthesurfaceofwhatwecansee.Cherishedmomentsfromourchildhood,longsincefaded,canoftenbebroughtbackwithstartlingclarityjustbythesimpleactofbitingintoacertainbiscuitorthearomaofacakebakingintheoven.Eventoday,wheneverIsmellafougasse,I’mtakenbacktothetimeswhenmysisterandIstayedatmygrandparents’houseinasmallvillageinProvence.EverySundaymorningwelikedtolazeinourbeds,listeningoutforthesoundofthebaker’shornashestoppedhistruckinthevillagesquare.Weknewthatwhenweeventuallygotuptherewouldbetwoslicesofcrunchy,butteryfougassewaitingforusonthekitchentable.Wewouldnoisilydevourourfougassewithabowlofchocolatchaud,whilemygrandfathersilentlyreadhispaperandmygrandmotherporedoverthecrossword,justastheydideverySundaymorning.

Makes2loaves

100ml(3½oz)whippingcream(35%fat)

30ml(1floz)virginoliveoil

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

LTomakethedough,puttheflour,water,sugar,oliveoil,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Mixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor8–10minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Addthe40g(1½oz)ofbutterand

kneadforanother2–3minutes,oruntilthebutterhasbeenabsorbedintothedough.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.

LDividethedoughinhalf.Placeoneportiononalightlyflouredworksurface,thensprinklealittleextraflouroverthetop.Usingyourpalms,flattenthedoughintoaroundabout2cm(3/4in)thick.Don’tworryaboutmakingittooeven,asthisbreadissupposedtolookrustic.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Transfertotwolightlyflouredbakingtraysandfreezefor20minutes,oruntilthedoughhardensslightly.

LMeanwhile,putthebutterandsugarinasmallsaucepanandstiroverlowheatuntilmelted.Don’tboilthemixtureasthisdissolvesthesugarintothebutterand,asaresult,thebreadwillloseitscrunchytop.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcooltothetouch.Removethedoughfromthefreezerandspreadhalfthesugarandbuttermixtureevenlyacrossthetopofeach,thencoverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingtheloaf.Whenthedoughhasproved,useyourfingertipstomakesmallcratersalloverthefougasse,about5cm(2in)apart;thispreventsthecreamfromrunningoffthesidesofthebreadduringthefinalstageofbaking.Bakefor10minutes,thenopentheovendoorandpourthecreamevenlyoverthetopofeachhotfougasse.Bakeforanother10minutes,oruntilthesidesofthebreadbegintoturngolden.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

P izzaMargherita

(Margheritapizza)Thismostfamousofpizzahaswithstoodthetestoftimeandthefutilitiesoffadstoremainthe

pizzaofchoicetheworldoverformorethan100years.Itshistoryiswellknown.MadeinhonourofQueenMargheritaofSavoyduringoneofhervisitstotheItaliancityofNaples,itwastoppedwithtomatoes,basilandmozzarellatoemulatethecoloursofthenationalflag.Whetherbycoincidenceofpuregeniusornot,thiscombinationofflavours,texturesandcolourshascometoillustratehowrestraintandhumility,whenusedproperly,arefarbetterthananylonglistofingredientsormethodology—twosimpleattributesthatsometimesrequirealifetimeoflearning,afactpoignantlycapturedbytheSpanishpainterPicassowhenhesaid,‘IttookmefouryearstopaintlikeRaphael,butalifetimetopaintlikeachild’.

Makesthree30cm(12in)pizzas

100ml(3½floz)virginoliveoil

1kg(2lb4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

5g(1/8oz)driedyeast

20g(3/4oz)finesalt

Toppings

400g(14oz)freshbuffalomozzarella,cutinto5mm(¼in)slices

30basilleaves

2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil,plusextra,fordrizzling

2brownonions,halvedandthinlysliced

2garliccloves,thinlysliced

800g(1lb12oz)trusstomatoes,coarselychopped

2teaspoonsdriedoregano

finesaltandgroundblackpepper,totaste

10basilleaves,finelychopped

LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthe‘windowpane’test.Notethatwhilethisrecipeisslightlydifferent,theprocessremainsthesame.Simplyaddtheoiltothewater,thenmixwiththeflour,yeastandsalt.

LPlacethedoughinalightlyflouredbowlandcoverwithacloth.Setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyone-third.Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist.Followingthedividingandballingmethod,dividethedoughintothreeequalportions,thenshapethedough.Coverandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor15minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinalargefryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandgarlicandcook,stirringcontinuously,for5–8minutes,oruntilgolden.Addthechoppedtomatoes,oreganoandthyme,andseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Rememberthatthesaucewilllosevolumeasthewaterevaporates,soalwaysholdbackalittleontheseasoninguntilthesaucehasfinishedcooking.Reducetheheattolow,thencoverandsimmerfor10minutes.Removethelid,increasetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringcontinuouslyuntilathickpasteforms.Stirinthebasilandchecktheseasoning,thentransfertoabowlandleavetocool.Refrigerateuntilcold.

LPreheattheovento240°C(465°F).Ideally,placeapizzastoneorheavy-basedbakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoventopreheatatthesametime.Thishelpsthepizzabasetocookquickly,whichmeansitremainscrispafterbaking.

LRolloutthethreedoughportionsonalightlyflouredworksurfaceinto3mm(1/8in)thickrounds.Usealittleextraflourwhennecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Placetherolleddoughonthree30cm(12in)pizzatrays,thenuseyourhandstostretchthedoughbackintoshape.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor30minutes,oruntilincreasedinsizebyhalf.

LUnlessyourovenisbigenoughtocookallthreepizzasatthesametime,it’sbesttocookonepizzaatatime,thenprepareanotheronewhileitiscooking.Usingthebackofaspoon,spreadthesauceoverthepizzabase,leavinga2cm(3/4in)borderaroundtheedge(thedark,crunchycrustisactuallythetastiestpartofapizza!).Topwithmozzarellabutdon’tgetcarriedaway,becausetoomuchcheesewillnotonlyoverpowerthesharpnessofthetomatosauce,butitwillalsomakeitdifficultforthepizzastocookproperly.

LPlaceonthehotpizzastoneorbakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheovenandbakefor12–

15minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removefromtheoven,scatterwithbasilleavesanddrizzlewithalittleoliveoil,theneatpipinghot,straightoutoftheoven.

Paindemieauyaourt

(Yoghurtbread)Recently,peopleseemtobeswitchingfromwhiteslicedbreadstothemorecomplextextures

andflavoursoftraditionalorsourdoughbreads.It’soneofthefewtrendsthatIabsolutelyunderstand,howeverthereareoccasionswhennothingbeatsasoftandfluffywhitebreadrollorsandwichbread.Asthetitleoftherecipesuggests,thisbreadismadewithyoghurt,givingitacreamysourfleshthatisslightlydenserthanwhitebread,andathin,velvetycrust.It’stheperfectalternativetotraditionalbreadswiththeirhardcrustsandsometimespungentsournessthatcanbealittleoverwhelmingforsome.

Makes1loaf

Poolish

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

2tablespoonshoney

50g(13/4oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

4g(1/8oz)finesalt

10g(¼oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

Eggwash( forbuns)

pinchoffinesalt

LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod.Onceprepared,coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.

LTomakethedough,puttheflour,honey,yoghurtandpoolishinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandkneadonlowspeedfor5minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasidefor20minutes.

LAddthesalt,yeastandbuttertothedoughandkneadfor10minutesonlowspeeduntilwellcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.Usingyourfist,punchthedoughdowntoremovethegasbubbles.

LThisdoughcanbebakedasasingleloafordividedintoballsforhamburgersorhotdogbuns.Ifmakingaloaf,lightlygreasea15x25cm(6x10in)breadtin.Shapethedoughusingtheballingmethod.Puttheballeddoughintothetinandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–2hours,oruntilapproximatelytripledinsize.Ifmakingbuns,dividethedoughinto120g(4¼oz)portionsforlongbuns(forhotdogs);80g(23/4oz)portionsforhamburgerbuns;and40g(1½oz)portionsforsmallsliderbuns.Onceshaped,placethebunsonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LIfcookingtheloaf,preheattheovento180°C(350°F).Coverthetinwithaflattray,thenweightitdownwithacast-ironpanorsimilar(theheavierthebetter).Bakefor40minutes,thenremovethetoptrayandweight,tiptheloafoverandremovethetinandbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilgolden.Leavetocoolfor1hourbeforeslicing.

LIfcookingthebuns,preheattheovento190°C(375°F).Meanwhile,tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl.Whenthebunsareready,brushthemalloverwiththeeggwash.Bakefor10–12minutesforthelargerrollsand7–8minutesforthesmallsliderbuns,oruntilgolden.Unlikelayereddoughsusedforcroissantorpuffpastry,briochesandbreadscookquicklyandhaveatendencytodryup,soifyourespectthetemperatures,thecolourisactuallyaveryreliablewayofdecidingifyourbreadisready.

Themaincharacteristicofpaindemieisitsdense,whiteflesh,whichisachievedbyaddingafattoatraditionalbreaddough.Asalways,IrecommendthatyouexperimentwiththerecipesIhavelistedinthisbook.Foradifferentresult,whynottryreplacingthebutter(fat)inthisrecipewiththesameamountofsoftbluecheeseorcreamymascarpone.

Pompeàl ’huiled ’oliveetàlafleurd ’oranger

(Oliveoilandorange-blossomsweetbread)Thisisgoingtobeanexceptiontotherule:asweetbreadmadewithapoolishmethod,thevery

thingIsaidIdislikedtobeginwith.WhileIdidmentionthatthedistinctivecharacteristicsofthepoolishmethodwerenottomytasteforrich,butteryandsubtleviennoiseriessuchasbriocheorcroissants,thoseveryattributesareintrinsictosomeofthemosttraditionalsweetbreads,andwhenitcomestotraditionalrecipes,thepompeàl’huileisonenottobemessedwith.

ThishumblefougasseisactuallyoneofthecompulsoryofferingsofthethirteendessertstraditionallyservedduringChristmasfestivitiesinProvence,thenumberthirteenbeingrepresentativeofChristandhistwelveapostlesattheLastSupper.Fourdessertsrepresentthemendiants(thefourordersofmonks)intheformofdriedfruitsandnuts(figs,hazelnuts,almondsandraisins);fourconfectioneriesareusedtorepresentgoodandevil(pompe,darknougat,whitenougatandjams);fourfreshfruits;andaspecialdessert,whichaccordingtolocalcustomcouldvaryfromcandiedfruitstoelaborateconfectioneries,torepresentChrist.Eventhoughthereligioussignificanceofthiscustomisnowoftenforgotten,youwillbehard-pressedtofindaChristmasmealanywhereinthesouthofFrancethatdoesn’tincludesomeelementsofthisage-oldtradition,whichcertainlyalwaysincludesapompeàl’huile.

Makes2

1eggyolk

Poolish

2tablespoonsorangeblossomwater

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

8g(¼oz)driedyeast

LTomakethedough,putthepoolishandalltheingredientsforthedoughinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Kneadonlowspeedfor10minutes,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhookanddustalittleflouroverthedough,thencoverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize.

LDividethedoughinhalf,thenshapethedoughusingtheballingmethoddescribed.Placetheballsonatraylightlydustedwithflour,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.

LRollouteachballonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa20cm(8in)roundabout2.5cm(1in)thick.Thesebreadsaremeanttobequiterustic,sodon’tstresstoomuchaboutmakingaperfectcircle.Concentrateinsteadonmakingsurethedoughisaneventhickness,asanythinnerareasmayburn.Placetheroundsonbakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Lightlybeatthemilkandeggyolkinasmallbowl,thenbrushalloverthebreads.Usingaparingknifedippedintheeggwash,cutpatternsstraightthroughthedough(usethephotographasaguide).Iusuallycutaholeinthemiddle,thenmakefourlongcutsoppositeeachother,similartothenumbersonaclockface.Feelfreetobecreativewithyourdesign—thecutsinthebreadonlyservetoimprovetheoveralllookofthepompeafterbaking,nothingmore.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Idon’tmeantoscareyouoranything,butsuperstitiondictatesthatyoushouldnevercutthepompewithaknifeoryouwillriskayearofbadluck.Instead,youshouldalways‘break’thebreadwithyourhands.Youcanneverbetoocareful!

Fougasseauxherbes,àlapommedeterreetauxolivesnoires

(Potato,blackoliveandherbfougasse)Thisrecipeisverysimilartotheearlieroneforolivefougasse,butthisismadewithamore

complexpoolishdough.Mymainintentionofincludingithereistoillustratethat,irrespectiveofthetraditionalmethodsandflavoursusedintherecipe,it’sthetypeofrecipethatwillsuitmostflavoursandtoppings—it’sentirelyamatterofpersonalpreference.Servethissoft,aromaticflatbreadasaquicklunchorcutitintobite-sizedpiecesandserveasanappetiser.

Forthisrecipe,Iamstickingwithmyfavourites:potatoes,thyme,rosemaryandolives.Forme,thisisProvenceonaplate—humble,resourcefulandintoxicatingallatonce.

Makes1loaf

500g(1lb2oz)PainsurPoolsih

500g(1lb2oz)all-purposepotatoes,suchasdesiree

oliveoil,fordrizzling

3rosemarysprigs,leavespicked

80g(23/4oz)thyme(about½bunch),leavespicked(reserveafewsprigs)

saltandgroundblackpepper,totaste

200g(7oz)blackolives,pitted

LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.

LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfaceintoa20x40cm(8x16in)rectangle,about5mm(¼in)thick.Aswithmostdoughsforpizzasandfocaccia,don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtogetaperfectrectangle.Notonlyaretheymeanttoberustic,butthedoughwillbecometoosoftandwillbegintoproveifyouspendtoomuchtimefiddlingabout.Placetherolleddoughontoalightlygreasedorlinedbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LMeanwhile,peelthepotatoesandkeeptheminabowlofcoldwaterasyougo,tostopthemfrombrowning.Usingtheslicingattachmentonthefoodprocessororamandolin,cutthepotatoesinto2mm(1/16)thinslices.Thepotatohastocookquicklybeforethebreadburns,soitisimportantthatallthepotatoslicesarecutintothin,evenslices.Youcanusealargeknifetodothis,butyouwillhavetomakesurethepotatoesarethinlysliced—thereisnothingworsethanrawpotato!Asyouslicethepotatoes,placethemintoabowlfullofcoldwatertopreventthem

frombrowning,andrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Brushthefougassegenerouslywitholiveoil,sprinklehalftherosemaryandthymeleavesoverthetopandpushthemintothedoughusingyourfingertips.Drainthepotatoesandpatdryonpapertowel,thenplacetheminslightlyoverlappinglayersovertheherbs.Spendabitoftimeorganisingyourpotatoesslicesinanicepattern,startingfromonecornerofthedoughandworkingyourwaytotheoppositeside.Drizzlewithoil,seasonwithagenerousamountofsaltandpepper,thenscatterwiththeolivesandremainingrosemaryandthymeleavesandsprigs.Bakefor12–15minutes,oruntiltheedgesofthepotatoesbegintoturnbrown.Servestraightoutoftheovenoratroomtemperature.

ThesetoppingsaretypicallyProvençal,butyoucanusewhateversuitsyourowntaste.Asoneidea:spreadathinlayerofthick(double/heavy)creamdirectlyontothedough,topwiththinlyslicedpumpkinandseasonwithnutmeg.

Chaussonàl ’abricotsafranéetauyaourt

(Apricot,saffronandyoghurtpockets)Oneofmyall-timefavourites,thischaussonisavariationonthetraditionalpompebreadrecipe.

It’sfilledwithsweetpoachedapricots,balancedwithjusttherightamountofacidityfromtheyoghurtandasubtlefloralearthinessfromthesaffron.Thisrecipeisaperfectexampleofhowcomplexflavours,whenusedcorrectly,canproducewholesomesimplicity.

Makes15

2eggyolks

Poolish

Poachedapricots

1.2kg(2lb10oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1kg(2lb4oz)freshapricots,halvedandpitted

½teaspoonsaffronthreads

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

8g(¼oz)driedyeast

LMeanwhile,tomakethepoachedapricots,putthesugar,halvedvanillabeansand2litres(70floz)waterinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addtheapricotsandsaffron,thencoverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntilcool.Refrigerateovernight.Straintheapricotsandvanillabeansoverabowl,reservingthesyrupforanotheruse(itcanberefrigeratedformonthsandcanbeusedforavarietyofthings,fromcordialtococktailsorevenasasyrupforpoundcakes).Pattheapricotsdryonpapertowelandplacetheminasmallfoodprocessor.Usingasmallknife,scrapethevanillaseedsintothefoodprocessoranddiscardthevanillabeans.Pulsetheapricotmixtureoneortwotimestobreaktheapricotsupalittle.Alternatively,mashthemalittlewithafork.

LTomakethedough,putthepoolishandalltheingredientsforthedoughinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Kneadonlowspeedfor10minutes,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhookanddustalittleflouroverthedough,thencoverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize.

LLineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout1cm(½in)thick.Usinga20cm(8in)roundcutter,cutout15circlesfromthedough,carefullyplaceonthelinedtrayandfreezefor1hour.Atthisstage,thedoughwillbesoftandthedoughcircleswilllosetheirshapeeasily,butchillingthemwillhelpfixthis,sodon’tworrytoomuchabouthowregularthecirclesare.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeatthemilkandeggyolkstogetherinasmallbowl.Removethedoughcirclesfromthefreezerandrollthemagainuntil3mm(1/8in)thick,thencuttheexcessdoughwiththecutter.Atthisstagetheyshouldbefirm.Brushtheeggwasharoundtheoutsideedgesofeachcircle—usejustenoughsothatthedoughistackyenoughtosticktogetherwhenfolded.Reservetheremainingeggwashforlater.

LSpoon1½tablespoonsofapricotsintothemiddleofeachround,thencovertheapricotswith2teaspoonsyoghurt.Foldonesideofthedoughoverthefillingtoformasemicircle,thenuseyourfingertipstopressaroundtheedgetoseal.Usethecuttertotrimandneatenanyexcessdough,thenplaceonlinedbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1½hours,oruntilthedoughhasrisen.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Brushthechaussonwith

theremainingeggwashandsprinklewithflakedalmonds.Pokeasmallholeineachonewiththetipofaknife,toallowthesteamtoescape.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolonthetray.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes

‘T heruleis,jamtomorrowandjamyesterday—butneverjamtoday.’

THROUGHTHELOOKINGGLASS,LEWISCARROLL

Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes

(Jams,compotes,spreadsandcreams)

Fromsalttosugar,vinegartoalcohol,peoplehavebeenexperimentingwithvariouswaysofpreservingseasonalfruitsandvegetablesformillenniums.Nowadays,withadvancesinmethodsofpreservingfoods,sterilisationandsoon,concoctionssuchasjamsandpreservesofallformsarejustanotherdeliciouswayofenjoyingourfruitandvegetables.

Ifyou’veeverbeentoFrance,youwillhavenoticedhowmuchtheFrenchlovetheirspreadsandjams—nobreakfasttablewouldbecompletewithoutanassortmentofjamsandaslicedbaguette,todipintoyourbowlofcaféaulait.WhenIwasachildIwasluckyenoughtospendmytimeoffschoolinthecountry,whenpickingfruitsandberriestomakejamsandpreserveswasconsideredfun.Wewouldspenddaysscavengingforberries,occasionallyraidinganearbyfruitorchard,thengohomewithourbucketsbrimming.Ourgrandmotherhelpedusmixallthosefruitsinlargecopperpots,andmyjobwastostayclosetothestove,stirringthefragrantjamswithawoodenspoon.Whentheyturnedtranslucentandshiny,wepouredthemintoanassortmentofjarsthatwe’dsavedupoverthewinter.

Confitures

(Jams)ThefoodindustryinFrance,fromproductionallthewaytotheretailshelf,isstringently

controlledbygovernmentaldecrees,proprietarymethodsorregionalbrandnames.Assuch,jamsmanufacturedforretailneedtocontainatleast55percentsugaraftercooking,andatleast35percentfruitbeforecooking,inordertobesoldunderthenameofconfitures.

WhileIamsurethoserulesandregulationsarecriticalinmaintainingthestandardsandconsistencyofproductssoldaroundtheworld,therecipesinthisbookdon’tmeetthoserules—Iwasactuallymoreconcernedwithwritingrecipesthatweretastyandeasytoachieve.Thesugarcontentandboilingtimeforthejamsinthefollowingrecipeshavebeendramaticallyreducedtopreservetheintegrityoftheflavourandtasteofthefruits,andtopreservesomeofthevitaminsandcolourthatallbutdieoffduringthetraditionallylengthycookingperiod.

storageinstructions:

LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesejamsmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.

Confituredeframboisesàlanoixdecoco

(Raspberryandcoconutjam)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

10g(¼oz)powderedpectin

100ml(3½floz)tinnedcoconutcream

500g(1lb2oz)freshorfrozenraspberries(seetip)

LTosterilisethejars,placefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsinalargesaucepanandcoverwithhotwater.Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmergentlyfor5minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.Usingapairofkitchentongs,carefullyremovethejarsandlidsfromthehotwaterandplacethemupsidedownonacleanclothonyourworksurface.Takecareastheywillbeextremelyhot!

LPutthesugarandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.

LPutthecoconutcreamandraspberriesinaheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Bringtotheboil,stirringoccasionally.Atthispointtheberriesshouldbebreakingdown.Addthesugarmixtureandstircontinuouslyuntilthesugarhascompletelydissolved.Reducetheheattolowandcontinuestirringgentlyfor10minutes,oruntiltranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LPourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

Ialwaysrecommendusingfreshberriesfortheserecipes.Thatbeingsaid,youwillgetaverysimilarresultusingfrozenfruits,providingyouaccountfor the fact that they contain a slightly higher water content, and will therefore need to simmer for an additional 5 minutes to allow for extraevaporation.

Confituredefraisesàlamentheetaucitronvert

(Strawberry,mintandlimejam)

10largemintleaves,chopped

550g(1lb4oz)strawberries,hulled

finelygratedzestandjuiceof1lime

LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LPutthesugarandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.Wrapthechoppedmintinapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oracleanclothandsecurethetopwithstring,tomakeabagsimilartoabouquetgarni.

LPutthestrawberries,1tablespoonwaterandthemintparcelinaheavy-basedsaucepanoververylowheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Coverthepanandcook,stirringoccasionallyandmakingsurethemixturedoesn’tboil,untiltheberriesstarttobreakdown.Addthesugarmixtureandstircontinuouslyuntilthesugarhascompletelydissolved.Then,continuestirringgentlyfor10minutes,oruntiltranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LRemovethemintparcel,thenstirinthelimezestandjuice.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

Confituredemelonàlacannelleetaucitronconfit

(Rockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonjam)

½lemon,preferablyorganic

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

15g(½oz)powderedpectin

700g(1lb9oz)riperockmelon(about1largemelon),peeledandcutinto2cm(3/4in)pieces

LWashthelemonthoroughlyunderhotwatertoremoveanywax.Removetheseeds,thenfinelychoptheskinandfleshintoaroughpaste.

LPutthesugar,cinnamonandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.Addthelemonpaste,choppedmelonandvanillabeansand,usingyourhands,combinewell.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandsetasidefor1hour.

LMeanwhile,sterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LTransferthefruitandsugarmixturetoaheavy-basedsaucepanandplaceovermediumheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Bringtotheboil,stirringcontinuously,thenreducetheheattolowandcontinuestirringforanother15minutes,oruntilthemelonbecomestranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LUsingapairofkitchentongs,removethevanillabeansandreserve.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims.Addonehalvedvanillabeantoeachjarandsealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

technicaltip

Pectinisacolloid,apolysaccharidefoundintheskinand,toalesserextent,thefleshoffruitsandvegetables.Itiswidelyusedasagellingagentandstabiliserinfood(E440),butalsointherapeuticmedicinesandthepharmaceuticalindustry.Now,gettingbacktoourjam…Aspectinneedsanacidtoactivatefully,wecancontrolthethicknessorviscosityofthejambyaddingorreducingboththeamountofpectinandacidweadd.Inthisrecipe,Ihaveincreasedtheamountofpectinandaddedanacid(thelemon).Thiswillhelpstabilisethehighwater/lowpectincontentoftherockmelon.

Confitured ’ananaspoivrée

(Pepperedpineapplejam)

½lemon,preferablyorganic

500g(1lb2oz)ripepineappleflesh(about1smallpineapple),cutinto2cm(3/4in)cubes1/8teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper

LWashthelemonthoroughlyunderhotwatertoremoveanywax.Removetheseeds,thenfinelychoptheskinandflesh.

LPutthelemon,pineapple,pepper,pectinandvanillabeansinabowlandcombinewell.Coverandsetasidefor1hour.Unliketheotherjamsinthisbook,thepectinisnotaddedtothesugar,asitwouldburnduringthecaramelisationprocess.Consequently,itrequiresatleast1hourtohydrateandsoftenupinthejuicesofthefruitpriortocooking.

LPut80ml(2½floz)waterinaheavy-basedsaucepan,thenaddthesugarandmixgentlywithyourfingertipsorasmallspatula.Becarefulnottosplattertoomuchsugararoundthesideofthepanoryouwillincreasetheriskofcrystallisingthesugar(seetips).Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandcook,withoutstirring,untilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Stirringthesyrupwillincreasethechancesofthecaramelcrystallising,sogentlytiltthepanuntilthecaramelisaneven,lightbrowncolourthroughout.Assoonasyouarehappywiththecolourofthecaramel,increasetheheattohigh,thenimmediatelyaddthepineapplemixtureandstircontinuously.Beverycarefulwhenaddingaliquid(orfruitthatcontainsalotofliquid)tocaramelasthiscreatesalotofveryhotsteam.Alwayskeepyourhandsasfarawayfromthemixtureaspossiblewhenaddingthefruit.

LReducetheheattolow,thencoverandsimmer,withoutstirring,for10minutes.Thesteamandheatwillforcethewateroutofthepineappleanddissolveanypiecesofhardcaramel.Removethelid,add200ml(7floz)water,thenincreasetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringcontinuously,foranother30minutes.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthe

jamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LUsingapairofkitchentongs,removethevanillabeansandreserve.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims.Addonehalvedvanillabeantoeachjarandsealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

technicaltips

Sugar,oncedissolvedinaliquidwillhaveapropensitytoreturntoitscrystallisedstate,causingyourhotsyruptomasse,orcrystalliseintoalumpofopaque,hardsugar.So,thegoalistostopanyofthesugarcrystallisingduringcooking.Hereareafewtipstopreventthisproblem:

LMakesureyoursugardoesnotcontainanyimpurities(suchascrumbs,smallcoffeegrainsorflour).

LWhenmakingheavysyrup(highinsugar)orcookedsugar,alwaysdissolvethesugarslowlyinthewater(youcancompletethisstageevena

fewhoursbeforeyouneedit),andthencookthesugarquicklytoavoidcrystallisation.

LAlwaysdissolveyoursugarbyaddingatleast30percentofitsweightinwater.

LUseassmallapanaspossible,tomaintainconsistentheatacrossthewholesyrup.

LUseasmallbrushtoremoveanysugarcrystalsthatformonthesideofyourpanduringcooking.

LDon’tstirthesyruponceithasbeguntoboil.

Compotes

(Compotes)Firstdescribedinafifteenth-centurycookbookasa‘spicedandsweetenedapplepurée’,

compotesnowcomeinallmannerofflavours.Thebasicrequirementsofcompotesarethattheyshouldbemadeofchunksoffleshyfruit(suchasapples,figsorpears),becookedinalight,spicedsyrupandrelyentirelyonthefruits’ownpectinfortheirtexture.Thisisunlikejams,whichcontainmuchmoresugarandoftentheadditionofpectin,topreservethefruit.

Personally,Ithinkcompotesareamorerefinedandhealthyalternativetoclassicjams.Theyarefullofvitamins(unlikejams,whichlosealotoftheirnutrientsduringtheboilingprocess),theycontainalotlesssugarandcanbeservedasaspreadonabutteredbaguette,awarmcroissantorFrenchtoast.Theyalsotasteamazingasanaccompanimenttoasimplefruitsalad,yoghurtandcheese,orasasubstituteforicecreamonawarmchocolatecakeortartetatin.

LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesecompotesmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.

Compotedepoiresàl ’orgeat

(Pearandorgeatsyrupcompote)

600g(1lb5oz)firmwilliams(bartlett)pears(about4),oranybutterypear

juiceof2lemons

60ml(2floz)orgeatsyrup

LPeel,coreandcutthepearsinto2cm(3/4in)cubesandplaceinaheavy-basedsaucepan.Addtheremainingingredientsanduseyourhandstocombinewell.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for10minutes,oruntilthepearsbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.

LUsingkitchentongs,removethevanillabeans,thenscrapetheseedsoutofthebeansintothecompote.Stirthecompoteuntilthevanillaseedsaredispersedevenlythroughout.

LSpoonthehotcompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

Compoted ’abricotsàlaverveinecitronnelle

(Apricotandlemonverbenacompote)

50g(13/4oz)lemonverbenaleaves,coarselychopped(or6lemonverbenateabags)

600g(1lb5oz)ripeapricots,halvedandstonesremoved

LWrapthechoppedlemonverbenaleavesinapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oracleanclothandsecurethetopwithstring,tomakeabagsimilartoabouquetgarni.

LPuttheapricots,sugar,vanillabeansandthelemonverbenaparcelinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Ifyouareusingteabags,don’taddthemyetastheyarefragileandwillbreakapartduringtheearlystagesofcooking.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes,oruntiltheapricotsbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.Ifusingthelemonverbenateabags,reducetheheattolowandaddthemtothepan.Simmerfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously.

LTransferthecompotetoaheat-resistantbowl.Coverandsetasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.Don’tremovethemuslinparcel(orteabags)orthevanillabeansatthisstage,astheywillreleasethebulkoftheirflavourduringthecooling-downperiod.

LMeanwhile,sterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LRemovethelemonverbenaparcelorteabagsfromthecompoteandsqueezethemgentlywithyourhandstoextractasmuchflavouraspossible—don’tsqueezetheteabagstoohardortheywillburst.Scrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothecompoteandstiruntiltheseedsareevenlydispersedthroughout.

LSpoonthecompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

Compotedepommesetderhubarbe

(Appleandrhubarbcompote)

Makesabout1litre(35floz)

300g(10½oz)rhubarbstems(about5stems)

600g(1lb5oz)greenapples(about4),suchasgrannysmiths

100g(3½oz)honey

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

LSterilisefive200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LTrimtherhubarbofanyleavesandcutthestemsinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Put500ml(17floz)waterinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Assoonasthewaterboils,addtherhubarbandcookfor5minutes,oruntiltender,thendrainwell.Placeonacleanclothandpatdry.

LPeelandcoretheapplesandcutinto2cm(3/4in)cubes.Puttherhubarb,apples,honey,sugarandcinnamoninaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for10–15minutes,oruntiltheapplesbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.

LSpoonthehotcompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

technicaltip

For this recipe, I have substituted some of the sugarwith honey.Honey is an inverted sugar, high in fructose. Thismonosaccharide has two verybeneficialpropertiesinbaking.Firstly,itisapproximately65percentsweeterthansucrose(sugar)andisthereforeidealtobalanceoutacidicrecipes,such as this apple and rhubarb compote,without dramatically needing to increase the ratio of refined sugar. Secondly, the honey slows down thecrystallisationofsucroseinyourmix,thereforeincreasingboththetextureandshelflife.

Pâtesàtartiner

(Spreads)Literallyspeaking,pâtesàtartinercanbetranslatedas‘pastetospreadontartines’,thosebeing

slicesofbreadusuallyeateninthemorning,dunkedintoalargebowlofhotchocolateorcaféaulait.Ofcoursejams,marmalades,honeys,softcheeses…allofthoseareindeedspreads,butthewayIlookatitisthattheyalreadyhaveaspecificnametocategorisethemandtherecipesthatfollowdon’t—justlikepeanutbutter,theyaresimplyspreadable…anddelicious.

LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesespreadsmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.

Pâteàtartinerchoco-noisette

(Hazelnutandchocolatespread)

600g(1lb5oz)hazelnuts,roastedandskinned(seetip)

100g(3½oz)unsweetenedcocoapowder

50g(13/4oz)full-creammilkpowder

2tablespoonsvegetableoil

largepinchofsaltflakes

LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.Placea50cm(20in)longpieceofbakingpaperoralargesiliconematontheworksurface.

LTomakethepraline,put80ml(23/4floz)waterinaheavy-basedsaucepan,thenaddthesugarandmixgentlywithasmallspatula.Becarefulnottosplattertoomuchsugararoundthesideofthepanoryouwillincreasetheriskofcrystallisingthesugar.Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandcook,withoutstirring,untilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Stirringthesyrupwillincreasethechanceofthecaramelcrystallising,sogentlytiltthepanuntilthecaramelisanevenlightbrowncolour.

LReducetheheattolow,thenstirinthehazelnutsandquicklytipthemixtureoverthepaperorsiliconemat,spreadingitoutasthinlyasyoucanwithaspatula.Leavetocool,thencoverthepralinewithaclothandusearollingpinorsaucepantobashitintosmallpieces.

LPutthepralinepiecesintoafoodprocessorwiththecocoapowder,milkpowder,oilandsaltflakes.Usingthepulsebutton,processuntilfinelychopped,thenprocessonhighspeeduntilapasteforms.Stopmixingassoonasyouarehappywiththetextureofyourspread.Thelongeryoumixit,thesmootheritwillget.

LDividethepasteamongthesterilisedjarsandseal.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(6monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Storeinthefridge.

Thehazelnutsinthisspreadcanbereplacedwithanyothernut;however,youmustadjustthelevelsoffataccordinglytoachieveasimilartexture.Thisrecipeisdesignedforhazelnuts,whichcontainaround60percentoil,or360g(123/4oz).Ifyouweretousealmonds,whichcontain50percentoil(300g/10½ozfor600g/1lb5ozofalmonds),orpistachios,youwouldhavetoaddanadditional60g(2¼oz)ofvegetableoil,bringingthetotalvegetableoilamountto100g(3½oz).

Confituredelait

(Milkjam)

½teaspoonsaltflakes

LSterilisethree200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LPutalltheingredientsinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Cookoverhighheatuntilthemixturecomestotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow.Usingaslottedspoon,removethefoamfromthetopofthemilk,thencontinuetosimmerfor1½hours,stirringevery10minuteswithaheat-resistantflatspatula(usingawhiskwillcreatefoam,whichyouwanttoavoid).Duringthelast30minutesofcooking,themixtureshouldbegintothickenandcarameliseslowly,sopaycloseattentionandstircontinuouslytomakesurethemixturedoesn’tcatchonthebottomofthepanandburn.Itisimportanttonotethatthecookingtimesindicatedarepurelytobeusedasaguide.Thisjamisreadyfromtheminuteitthickensandcaramelises;thelongeryouleaveit,thethickeritwillgetandthelesssweetitwillbecome.

LUsingkitchentongs,removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenspoonthehotcaramelintothesterilisedjars,butdonotsealthemforatleast1hour,oruntilthecaramelreachesroomtemperature.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Sealandstoreinthefridge.

Pâtedecaramelaubeurresalé

(Saltedcaramelspread)

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped

4g(1/8oz)saltflakes

LSterilisethree200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LPutthecreaminasmallsaucepanandcookoverlowheatuntiljustwarm.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

LPutthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatandstircontinuouslywithaflat,heat-resistantspatula.Alwaysuseamediumtolargesaucepanforthesetypesofcaramels,asintroducingacoolerliquidtoaveryhotcaramelcreatesalotofsteamandintenselyhotbubbles,sothelargerthepan,thebetter.Assoonasthesugarbeginstocaramelisearoundtheedges,reducetheheattolowandcontinuestirring.Atthisstage,youwillnoticelarge,crystallisedlumpsofsugar;thisisactuallypartoftheprocessofcookingadrycaramel.Whenthecaramelbeginstofoam(atthisstage,thecolourshouldbeturningbrown/redandthelumpsshouldbetotallydissolved),increasetheheattohigh,andslowlyincorporatethewarmcreamwhilemixing.Alwayskeepyourhandsasfarawayfromthecaramelasyoucanduringthisprocess!

LCookthemixture,stirringoccasionally,untilitreaches110°C(230°F)onasugarthermometer.Removefromtheheatandstirinthebutteruntilwellcombined.Usingastickblender,processthecaramelfor1–2minutes,oruntilemulsified.Stirinthesaltflakes.

LSpoonthehotcaramelintothesterilisedjars,butdonotsealthemforatleast1hour,oruntilthecaramelreachesroomtemperature.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(2monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Sealandstoreinthefridge.

Whatmakessaltedcaramelsodelicious?Tounderstandthis,youneedtounderstandalittleabouthowtastes,inparticularsaltinessandbitterness,worktogether.Tastesaresensedbytastebudsinourmouth.Eachofthosetastesaredetectedindividually,sothereforeanystrongtastewillreducetheperceivedtasteofothers.Forinstance,anoverlysweetcurdwillnumbyourtonguetoanyothertasteorany

subtlenuancesinflavour.Youcaneitherincreaseorreducetheperceivedeffectofaparticulartaste(andoverallflavour)byincreasingorevenintroducinganothertaste.Saltedcaramelisaverygoodexampleofthis.Weovercookthecarameltoreducetheinherentsweetnessofthesugar.Wethenaddalittlesalttoneutralisethebitternessborneoutofovercookingthecaramel,resultinginaharmoniousbalanceofflavours,wherenotasteoverpowerstheother.

Crèmes

(Creams)

Crèmed ’amandes

(Almondcream)

Makesabout500g(1lb2oz)

note:Tomakepistachiocream,substitute100g(3½oz)ofthealmondmealwithpistachiomealanduse

kirschinsteadofrum.

150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,softbutnotmelted

1eggyolk

150g(5½oz)almondmeal

75g(23/4oz)Custard(opposite)(optional)

40ml(1¼floz)rum

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutterandsugaronmediumspeed,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlwithaspatula,untilcreamyandsmooth.

LReducethespeedtolow,thenaddtheeggandeggyolksoneatatime,makingsureeachadditionisfullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenext.

LAddthealmondmealandflourandbeatuntiljustcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandbeatuntillightandfluffy.Addthecustard,ifusing,andrumandbeatuntilsmoothandwellcombined.Transfertoabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinforming,thenrefrigerateforupto7days.

Aeratedbatters,suchasalmondcreams,willlosetheircreaminessandtexturewhentheyarerefrigeratedformorethanafewhours.Ifyou’renotusingthemstraightaway,bringbacktoroomtemperature,thenwhiskinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentuntilsmooth.

Crèmepâtissière

(Custard)

Makesabout700g(1lb9oz)

35g(1¼oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

1eggyolk

50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

LBringthemilk,vanillabeanandseedstotheboilinasaucepanovermediumheat.

LMeanwhile,puttheflour,cornflourandsugarinaheatproofbowlandcombinewell.Addtheeggandeggyolkand,usingahand-heldwhisk,beatuntilwellcombinedandcreamy.

LWhenthemilkreachesboilingpoint,removethevanillabeans.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddhalfofthemilktothesugarandeggmixtureandcombinewell,thentransfertothepanwiththeremainingmilk.Whiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthecustardcomestotheboil,thencontinuewhiskingforanother2minutes.

LRemovefromtheheatandtransferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment.Addthebutterandbeatonlowspeedfor10minutes,oruntilwarmtothetouch.Transfertoabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinforming,thenrefrigerateforupto2days.

LBeforeusing,lightlywhiskinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmentuntilsmooth.

Glossary

abaisseAlaminatedorflattenedblockofpastry.

amelioratedAtermdescribingtheadditionofingredientstoabasedoughtoimproveitstextureorflavour.Examplesofamelioratedbreaddoughsarebriochesandfougasses.

autolyseAlsoknownasthe‘delayedsaltmethod’,thisisabread-makingtechniquewheretheflourandwateraremixedtogetherpriortointroducingtheyeastandsalt.Thedoughisthenlefttorest,improvingwaterabsorptionandsubsequentglutendevelopment.Autolysingultimatelyreducesthekneadingtimeandimprovesthetextureofthedough.Saltinhibitsthisprocess,soisaddedafterwards.

bain-marieUsedtoslowlyandgentlywarm,meltorcookingredientsinavesselsuspendedoverasaucepanofhotorwarmwater;adoubleboiler;awaterbath.

ballingAfterthefirstprove,thedoughneedstobeballed,aprocessdesignedtostretchtheglutenandincreaseelasticitysothedoughretainsitsshapeduringtheprovingstage.

beurrenoisetteButtercookeduntilthewaterhasevaporatedandthefathasgonethroughtheMaillardreaction(non-enzymaticbrowning).Thisprocessaddsthesubtleflavourofhazelnuts(noisettes)toyourbutter.Mostcommonlycalled‘brownbutter’inEnglish.

blanch(blanchir)Literallytranslatedas‘whitening’,thisreferstoaprocesswherefoodisbrieflycookedinboilingwatertodeactivatetheenzymesthatcauseoxidation(enzymaticbrowning).Thefoodisthenplungedintoicedorcoldwatertostopthecookingprocess.

caramelisationAnon-enzymaticbrowningprocessthatoccurswhensucrose(sugar)isexposedtoextremeheat.

colloidAsubstancemadeofmicroscopicparticlesthataresuspendedinaliquid(orsolid),alteringitstexture.

corpsMeans‘body’;referstotheelasticityofadough.Themorecorpsadoughhas,thetougheritwillbetorolloutorshape.

deglazeToaddaliquidtoremovethecookedbrownedbitsofresiduefromthebottomofapan,ortoahotcaramelorsaucetoliquefyit.

demouldTocarefullyremoveacakeortartfromitsmouldortin.

denaturationAprocessthatcausesproteinstolosetheirstructurebyapplyinganexternalstresssuchasheat,anacid(suchaslemonjuice)oralcohol.

détrempeThedoughforpufforcroissantpastry,priortoaddingthebutterforturning.

directmethodOnemethodofmakingbread,wherethedoughreliesexclusivelyontheadditionofyeastforfermentation.

eggwashAmixtureofeggandsalt(andsometimesmilkorwater)brushedoverpastriespriortobaking,toaddcolourandshine.

emulsionAprocesswherebytwoliquids–usuallyafatandwater–areboundtogethertocreateafoamorcream,addingtextureandreducingtheperceivedeffect(theoverallsensation)ofthefat.

enzymaticbrowningseeoxidation

feuilletéAgeneraltypeofpastry,savouryorsweet,madewithpuffpastry.

fraiser/fraisageAmethodofusingyourfingertipsandtheheelofyourhandtoincorporateeggsandbutterintoflour,withoutkneading.Thistechniqueminimisesthelengthofthestrandsofglutenandisusedforshortcrustoranydoughwhereelasticityisundesirable.

ganacheAnemulsifiedcreammadewithchocolateandaliquid.Althoughthemostcommonganachesaremadeusingcream(18–35%fat),ganachescanalsobemadeusingfruitjuices,puréesandevenwater.

knockingdownUsingthepalmofyourhandsoryourfisttopushdown(deflate)ayeasteddough,followingthefirstprove,toremovethecarbondioxide(gas)thathasformed.

laminatingTheincrementalthinningorflatteningofadoughwitharollingpinordoughbreaker(usedcommerciallytorolloutlargequantitiesofdough).

levainAmixtureofflourandaliquidlefttofermentovertime.Levain,the‘starter’,isthebuildingblockofanysourdoughandtheonlyleavening(rising)agentusedduringtheprovingprocess.

liningTheprocessofapplyingathinlayerofdoughtoacaketinortarttin.

longdoughAdough,suchasthatusedforviennoiserieorbreads,wherethestrandsofglutenhavebeenlengthenedduringthemixingorkneadingprocess,whichincreasestheelasticityofthedoughnecessarytotrapthegasesreleasedduringtheprovingandbakingstage,aprocessessentialtothedevelopmentofanyyeasteddough.

MaillardreactionAnon-enzymaticbrowningprocessthatoccursbetweenaminoacidsandreducingsugarswhenexposedtoheat,producingadesirableflavourandcolour.ExamplesofMaillardreactionbrowningarebreadcrusts,searedmeatorfishandroastedcoffeebeans.

masse/masserAprocessbywhichsucrosecrystalliseswithinasyrup.

non-enzymaticbrowningseeMaillardreaction;caramelisation

oxidationAbiochemicalprocesswherebyenzymesbrownwhenexposedtooxygen;alsocalledenzymaticbrowning.

pasteurisationAprocess,particularlyappliedtomilksandcreams,whereingredientsareheatedfrom72°C–88°C(162°F–190°F)—dependingonthefatcontentanduseoftheproduct—tokillharmfulgerms,andthencooledrapidlyto4°C(39°F).

pâtisserieAtypeofsweetconcoctionandtheshopthatsellsthem.

pâtissier/pâtissièreAprofessionalbaker(male/female).

pâtonAblockofdoughthathasbeenfoldedaroundtheblockofbutter.

pectinAsubstance(seecolloid)primarilyusedasagellingagentandpreservativeinjamsthatoccursnaturallyinmanyfruits(especiallyintheskinandseeds).

pointageThefirststageofprovingofanyyeasteddough.

poolishApre-ferment,or‘starter’,madeofequalpartswaterandflourwiththeadditionofasmallamountofyeast.Breadsandfougassesmadewithpoolishwillhaveastrongflavourduetothebuild-upoflacticacidinthepoolish,andwillalsohaveabuttery,lightcrumbandacrispcrust.

provingThedevelopmentofadoughundertheactionofyeast,poolishorlevain;theprocessofallowingthebreaddoughtorise.

rouxAthickeningagent,usedofteninsauces,madebycookingtogetherflourandafat(usuallybutter).

sablageTomixbutterandflourtogetherbeforeaddingtheliquidsinthepreparationofcertaintypesofshortcrustpastry.

shortdoughAdough,suchaspâtesabléeandmostshortcrustpastry,wherethestrandsofglutenarenotlengthenedduringthemixingprocess.Shortdoughsarecrumblyandcanbedifficulttohandle.

viennoiserieAtypeofleavenedpastry.Examplesofviennoiseriesarecroissants,briocheandroulades.

Frenchrecipelist

allumettesglacées

Ardéchoisàlacrèmedemarronsetganacheaucaramelsalé

batonsgruyère-parmesan

beignetsàlacannelle

biscuitsauchocolat,auxamandesetauxpistaches

biscuitssecs

brioche

briocheausucreetauxécorcesd’oranges

bugnes

chaussonàl’abricotsafranéetauyaourt

chouquettes

chouxbeurredecacahouète-chocolataulait

clafoutisauxcerises

compoted’abricotsàlaverveinecitronnelle

compotedepoiresàl’orgeat

compotedepommesetderhubarbe

compotes

confitured’ananaspoivrée

confituredefraisesàlamentheetaucitronvert

confituredeframboisesàlanoixdecoco

confituredelait

confituredemelonàlacannelleetaucitronconfit

confitures

congolaisàl’orgeat

conversationauxorangesépicées

crèmed’amandes

crèmepâtissière

crèmes

croissants

croissantsauxamandes

croquantsauxamandes

diplomate

douillonsdepommesauCalvadosetgoussedevanille

éclairsàlafraiseetàlamandarine

feuilletésricotta-figue

financiersauxframboisesetàlanoixdecoco

florentines

fondantauchocolatetauxnoix

fougasseausucre

fougasseauxherbes,àlapommedeterreetauxolivenoires

fougasseauxolives

fourrésauxpêchesetaucitron

gâteauàl’huiled’olive,aucitronconfitetàlalavande

gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat

gâteaubasque

gâteaumarocain

gâteauxderizaucarameletàlafleurd’oranger

gâteauxetdesserts

gnocchiaupistouatauxpalourdes

gougèresbéchamelgruyère

macaronsdeNancy

madeleines

michetraditionnelleauxnoixetauxraisins

muffinscaramel-banane

navettesàl’eaudefleurd’oranger

painaulevain

paindecampagne

paindemieauyaourt

painméthodedirecte

painperdu

painsurpoolish

painsauchocolatetauxnoisettes

painsauxraisins

palmiersauxnoisettes

pastislandais

pâteàbrioche

pâteàchoux

pâteàcroissant

pâteàtartinerchoco-noisette

pâtebrisée

pâtedecaramelaubeurresalé

pâtefeuilletée

pâtesablée

pâtesucrée

pâtesàtartiner

petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis

pissaladière

pithiviers

pizzaMargherita

pizzasbanane-chocolat

pompeàl’huiled’oliveetàlafleurd’oranger

quatre-quartsàlapoireetauxdates

quichelorraine

rouladesàlatapenadeetauhaloumi

rouladespistache-framboise

sablésàlaconfiture

souffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées

tarteàlapistache,auxfiguesetàl’eauderose

tarteamandineauxpoiresetàlaWilliamine

tarteaufromagedeBanon

tarteaujamboncruetauroquefort

tarteaupotironetauxlardons

tarteauxblettesetauxraisins

tartebanane-réglisse

tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches

tartegratinée

tartemeringuéeaucitronetaubasilic

tartericotta-orangeauchocolatetaupastis

tartetatinàlarhubarbe

tartescrèmebrûléeàlalavande

tartesettourtes

tourteauboeufbourguignon

tourtespouletpoireauxetlaurier

tuilesauxamandes

tuilesdentelleàl’orangeetàlacannelle

almondsalmondandpearcreamtartwithpearliqueuralmondandspicedorangetartalmond,chocolateandpistachiobiscuitsalmondcreamalmondcroissantsalmondcustardBasquecakealmondtuilesbiscottiflorentinesflourlessMoroccanalmondandorangecakefrangipanepieamarettianchovyandonionfocacciaaniseandlemonnun’spuffsapplesappleandrhubarbcompotebakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabeanupside-downappleandrhubarbtartapricotsapricotandlemonverbenacompoteapricot,saffronandyoghurtpockets

bacon,inquichelorrainebain-mariesbakingpowderbakingtoolsbananasbananaandcaramelmuffinsbananaandchocolatepizzasbananaandliquoricetartbasilbasilandlemonmeringuetartbasil,tomatoandgoat’scheesetartBasquecakebeefburgundypiebicarbonateofsodabiscotti,almondbiscuitsalmondbiscottialmondtuiles

chocolate,almondandpistachioflorentinesFrenchvanillacrostoliNancymacaronsorangeandcinnamonlacetuilesorangeblossomnavettesblindbakingbluecheeseandprosciuttotartbreadandbutterpuddingbreadknivesbreadsapricot,saffronandyoghurtpocketscountrybreaddirectmethodofmakingfullsourdoughmethodofmakingMargheritapizzaoliveoilandorangeblossomsweetbreadonionandanchovyfocacciapotato,blackoliveandherbfougasseProvençalolivebreadsemi-sourdoughmethodofmakingsugarfougassewalnutandraisinloafyoghurtbreadbriochescandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriochechocolateandbananapizzascinnamondoughnutsFrenchpanettoneFrenchtoasthowtomakethedoughsnailsbrownsugar‘burningtheeggs’butterbutterbriochebutterfudgecake,chocolateandwalnutbuttermilk

caketinscakesanddessertsbananaandcaramelmuffinsbreadandbutterpuddingcaramelandorangeblossomricecakesChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis

chestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganachechocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecakechocolate-mandarinsaucewithbakedcheesecakedateandpearpoundcakesflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakemadeleinesoliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavenderraspberryandcoconutfriandsCalvadosandvanillabeanwithbakedapplesinpastrycandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriochecaramelcaramelandbananamuffinscaramelandorangeblossomricecakessaltedcaramelganachewithchestnutcakecastersugarChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulischeesebakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesaucebluecheeseandprosciuttotartcheesesticksgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartgruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffshaloumiswirlsandolivetapenadericottaandfigpastriesricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartsilverbeetandraisintartcheesecake,baked,withmandarin-chocolatesaucechef’sknivescherriescherryclafoutisflorentineschestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganachechicken,leekandlaurelpieschocolatechocolate,almondandpistachiobiscuitschocolateandbananapizzaschocolateandhazelnutcroissantschocolateandhazelnutspreadchocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecakechocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberrieschocolate-mandarinsaucewithbakedcheesecakechocolate,ricotta,orangeandpastistartflorentinesmanufacturingprocess

milkchocolateandpeanutbutterpuffstypesofbeantypesofchocolateusingabain-mariechouxpastryaniseandlemonnun’spuffsclamandpestognocchigruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffshowtomakepeanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffspearlsugarpuffsstrawberryandmandarinéclairscinnamoncinnamonandorangelacetuilescinnamondoughnutscinnamon,rockmelonandconfitlemonjamclamandpestognocchicocoabeanscocoapowdercoconutscoconutandraspberryfriandscoconutandraspberryjammacaroonswithorgeatsyrupcompotesappleandrhubarbapricotandlemonverbenapearandorgeatsyrupconfectioners’sugarconvectionovenscookingsaltscornstarchcountrybreadcreamcreamandpotatotartcreamoftartarcreamsalmondcreamcustardcrèmebrûléetartsCriollococoabeanscroissantsalmondcroissantschocolateandhazelnutcroissantshowtomakethecroissants

howtomakethedoughpeachandlemonpastriespistachioandraspberryswirlscrostoli,FrenchvanillaculturedbuttercustardcustardalmondBasquecakemilkcustard

darkchocolatedateandpearpoundcakesdemerarasugardessertsseecakesanddessertsdextrosedirectmethod,ofbread-makingdoublecreamdoughnuts,cinnamonDutchcocoa

éclairs,strawberryandmandarineggwasheggselectricmixersequipment,forbaking

fan-forcedovensfermentationfigsfigandricottapastriesfigandrosepistachiotartfinesaltfinishingsaltsflakypuffpastryfleurdeselflorentinesflourflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakefocaccia,onionandanchovyfoodprocessorsForasterococoabeansfougassespotato,blackoliveandherbfougasseProvençalolivebreadsugarfougassefrangipanepie

FrenchgastronomyFrenchpanettoneFrenchtoastFrenchvanillacrostolifriands,raspberryandcoconutfructosefulllevainmethod,ofbread-making

glucoseglutengnocchi,clamandpestogoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartgruyèrecheesesticksgruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffs

hailsugarhaloumiswirlsandolivetapenadehambluecheeseandprosciuttotartsilverbeetandraisintarthazelnutshazelnutandchocolatecroissantshazelnutandchocolatespreadhazelnutpalmiersheavycreamherb,potatoandblackolivefougasseheterolacticfermentation

icedpuffpastryfingersicingsugarimmersionblendersingredientsweighingofinstantdryyeastinvertedpuffpastryjamshortbreadsjamsmilkjampepperedpineappleraspberryandcoconutrockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonstrawberry,mintandlimeseealsospreads

kitchenscales

knives

laurel,chickenandleekpieslavenderlavenderandcandiedlemonswitholiveoilcakelavendercrèmebrûléetartsleaveningagentsleek,chickenandlaurelpieslemonverbenaandapricotcompotelemonscandiedlemonsandlavenderwitholiveoilcakeconfitlemon,rockmelonandcinnamonjamlemonandanisenun’spuffslemonandbasilmeringuetartlemonandpeachpastrieslevain(starter)levaincheflightcreamlime,mintandstrawberryjamliquoriceandbananatartloaftins

macaronsmacaroons,coconut,withorgeatsyrupmadeleinesmaizecornflourmaizeflourmaizestarchmaizenamandarinsmandarinandstrawberryéclairsmandarin-chocolatesaucewithbakedcheesecakeMargheritapizzameringuelemonandbasilmeringuetartmilkchocolatemilkjammint,strawberryandlimejamMoroccanorangeandalmondcake,flourlessmuffins,bananaandcaramel

Nancymacaronsnavettesnibbedsugarnun’spuffs,lemonandanise

olivesblackolive,potatoandherbfougasseoliveoilandorangeblossomsweetbreadoliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavenderolivetapenadeandhaloumiswirlsProvençalolivebreadonionandanchovyfocacciaorangescandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriocheflorentinesflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakeorangeandcinnamonlacetuilesorangeblossomandcaramelricecakesorangeblossomandoliveoilsweetbreadorangeblossomnavettesorange,ricotta,chocolateandpastistartspicedorangeandalmondtartorgeatsyrupcoconutmacaroonswithpearcompotewithovens

palmiers,hazelnutpanettone,Frenchparingknivesparmesanandgruyèrecheesestickspasta,clamandpestognocchipastis,chocolate,ricottaandorangetartpastriesbasicingredientsblindbakingessentialtoolsformakingliningthetinsrollingthepastrysavouryshortcrustpastryshortbreadpastrysweetshortcrustpastryseealsochouxpastry;puffpastrypeachandlemonpastriespeanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffspearlsugarpearlsugarandcandiedorangepeelbriochepearlsugarpuffspearspearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueur

pearanddatepoundcakespearandorgeatsyrupcompotepectinpepperedpineapplejampestoandclamgnocchipiesseetartsandpiespineapplejampipingbagsandnozzlespistachiospistachioandraspberryswirlspistachio,chocolateandalmondbiscuitspistachio,figandrosetartpizzaschocolateandbananaMargheritapoolishmethod,ofbread-makingpotatoespotatoandcreamtartpotato,blackoliveandherbfougassepoundcakes,dateandpearpouringcreamprosciuttoandbluecheesetartProvençalolivebreadprovingtimes,forbreaddoughpuffpastrybakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabeancheesesticksfrangipanepiefreezingofgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltarthazelnutpalmiershowtomakeicedpuffpastryfingersmethodsofmakingolivetapenadeandhaloumiswirlspotatoandcreamtartricottaandfigpastriesspeckandpumpkintartpuffsseechouxpastrypumpkinandspecktartpureicingsugar

quichelorraine

raisins

raisinandsilverbeettartraisinandwalnutloafsnailsraspberrieswithchocolateganachetartraspberryandcoconutfriandsraspberryandcoconutjamraspberryandpistachioswirlsrawsugarrefractoryovensrhubarbrhubarbandapplecompoteupside-downappleandrhubarbtartricecakes,caramelandorangeblossomricottaricottaandfigpastriesricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartringmouldsrocksaltrockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonjamrose,figandpistachiotartroughpuffpastryroulades

saffron,apricotandyoghurtpocketssaltsaltflakessaltedcaramelsaltedcaramelganachewithchestnutcakesaltedcaramelspreadsavouryshortcrustpastryhowtomakescalesseasaltserratedknivesshortbread,jamshortbreadpastry,howtomakeshortcrustpastrysavourysweetsiliconematssilverbeetandraisintartsinglecreamsouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis

sourdoughbreadflourformethodformakingspatulasspecksilverbeetandraisintartspeckandpumpkintartspreadshazelnutandchocolatemilkjamsaltedcaramelseealsojamsstaticovenssteelspatulasstickblendersstrawberriesChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulisjamshortbreadsstrawberryandmandarinéclairsstrawberry,mintandlimejamsugarsugarbriochesugarfougassesweetshortcrustpastry,howtomake

tartringstartsandpiesalmondandspicedorangetartalmondcustardBasquecakebeefburgundypiebluecheeseandprosciuttotartcherryclafoutischicken,leekandlaurelpieschocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberriesfigandrosepistachiotartgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartlavendercrèmebrûléetartslemonandbasilmeringuetartliquoriceandbananatartpearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueurpotatoandcreamtartricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartsilverbeetandraisintartspeckandpumpkintart

upside-downappleandrhubarbtartseealsopastriesthermometersthickcreamtinstomato,goat’scheeseandbasiltarttools,forbakingTrinitariococoabeanstuilesalmondorangeandcinnamonupside-downappleandrhubarbtart

vanillaFrenchvanillacrostolivanillabeanandCalvadoswithbakedapplesinpastry

walnutswalnutandchocolatebutterfudgecakewalnutandraisinloafwheatencornflourwhippingcreamwhitechocolate‘windowpane’test

yeastyoghurtyoghurt,apricotandsaffronpocketsyoghurtbread

zest,fordecoration

Acknowledgments

LMymosthumblethankyoutomyfirstchef,RobertSchicchi,fornotonlyteachingmetheskillsbut,moreimportantly,foropeningmyeyestoanalmostnever-endingworldoflearninganddiscovery.

LMyabsolutethankstoJuliaTaylorforyourhelpduringthoselongnightsofbaking,andforyourunwaveringsupport.

LMaximumrespectandthankstomygreatteamofpastrychefsatLaRenaissancePâtisserieandBaroqueBistro,pastandpresent,yourock!

LAverybigthankyoutotheCharkosfamilyforallyoursupport.

LParisCutler,thankyousomuchformakingitallpossibletobeginwith.

LAnd,ofcourse,alltheamazinglypatient,talentedandsupportivepeopleatMurdochBooks:DianaHillandSueHinesforactuallyentrustingmewiththisbookfromthestart…mercibeaucoup.

LTheteamofeditors:BarbaraMcClenahan,KimRowneyandChristineOsmond—Iliterallyhavenoideahowyouputupwithmeandmyconvolutedmanuscript,thankyou.

LVivienValk,whatcanIsay,yourdesignmakesmelookalotbetterthanIam…thebookisjustbeautiful.

LSteveBrown,foryourincrediblepictures,strongcoffeesandfinetunes,andJaneHann,whocan,quiteliterally,makeanythinglookstunning.

Publishedin2015byMurdochBooks,animprintofAllen&Unwin

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Publisher:DianaHillEditorialManager:BarbaraMcClenahanDesigner:VivienValkProjectEditor:KimRowneyPhotographer:SteveBrownStylist:JaneHannFoodEditor:ChristineOsmondProductionManager:MaryBjelobrk

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ISBN9781925267082(ebook)

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IMPORTANT:Thosewhomightbeatriskfromtheeffectsofsalmonellapoisoning(theelderly,pregnantwomen,youngchildrenandthosesufferingfromimmunedeficiencydiseases)shouldconsulttheirdoctorwithanyconcernsabouteatingraweggs.

OVENGUIDE:Youmayfindcookingtimesvarydependingontheovenyouareusing.Forfan-forcedovens,asageneralrule,settheoventemperatureto20°C(35°F)lowerthanindicatedintherecipe.

MEASURESGUIDE:Wehaveused20ml(4teaspoon)tablespoonmeasures.Ifyouareusinga15ml(3teaspoon)tablespoonaddanextrateaspoonoftheingredientforeachtablespoonspecified.

LFromFrench-bornmasterpâtissierJeanMichelRaynaudcomesaninspirationalandachievableguidetodeliciousFrench-stylebakingforthehomekitchen.

TheFrenchBakerfeatures95tantalisingsweetandsavouryrecipes—forbiscuits,cakes,tarts,pies,pastries,croissants,breads,jamsandspreads—allsupportedbyexperthintsandcookingtips.Photographicstep-by-stepsectionsprovidevisual

referenceformakingshortcrust,chouxandpuffpastry,aswellasbrioches,breadsandcroissants.

JeanMichel’srecollectionsofhistrainingandworkasapâtissierarewoventhroughthisstunningbook,togetherwithfascinatinginsightsintoFrenchtraditionandculture.

JeanMichelRaynaudisheadpâtissierofSydney’sLaRenaissancePâtisserieandBaroqueBistro.BorninFrance,hebeganhiscareerunderthetutelageofmasterpâtissierRobertSchicchiinMarseilles,andwasaheadpastrychefbytheageof20.JeanMichelhasappearedontelevision,writtenformagazinesandcontributedrecipestoseveralbooks.

The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

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