ELEMENTS OF TEXTILE

( I D E N T I F I C A T I O N O F T E X T I L E F I B E R S )

&(UNITS OF TEXTILE MEASUREMENT)

Submitted by:Aastha SharmaSubmitted to:-

Ms. Paramita sarkar

INTRODUCTION

A number of methods are available for characterization of the structural, physical, and chemical properties of fibers. Various methods are used for fiber identification like microscopic methods, solubility, heating and burning method, density and staining etc. End-use property characterization methods often involve use of laboratory techniques which are adapted to simulate actual conditions of average wear on the textile or that can predict performance in end-use.

TYPES OF TEST

The Non technical Test• FEELING TEST• BURNING TEST

The Technical Test• MICROSCOPIC TEST• CHEMICAL TEST

BURNING TEST ( N O N - T E C H N I C A L )

To recognize the composition of fabrics by the burning test ,the sample of fiber, yarn of fabric should be moved slowly towards a small flame and the reaction to heat carefully observed .One end of the sample should be put directly into flame to determine its burning rate and characteristics. The burning odor should be noted and the characteristics of the ash such as amount ,form, hardness and color should be examined

FIBERS WHEN APPROACHING FLAME

WHEN IN FLAME

AFTERREMOVALFROM FLAME

ASH ODOUR

Cellulose CottonFlaxLyocellRayon

Does not fuse or shrink from flame

Burns with light gray smoke

Continue to burn, afterglow

Gray, feathery, smooth edge

Burning paper

ProteinSilk Wool

Curls away from flame

Burns slowly May self- extinguish

Crushable black ash

Burning hair

Acetate Melts and pulls away from flame

Melts and burn Continues to burn and melt

Brittle, black hard bead

Acrid, harsh, sharp odour

Acrylic Melts and pulls away from flame

Melts and burn Continues to burn and melt

Brittle, black hard bead

Chemical odour

Glass No reaction Does not burn No reaction Fibre remains None Modacrylic Melts and pulls

away from flameMelts and burns Self-

extinguishes, white smoke

Brittle, black hard bead

Chemical odour

Nylon Melts and pulls away from flame

Melts and burn May self-extinguish

Hard gray or tan bead

Celerylike

Olefin Melts and pulls away from flame

Melts and burn May self-extinguish

Hard tan bead Chemical odour

PLA Melts and pulls away from flame

Melts and burns with slight white smoke

May self-extinguish

Hard tan or gray bead

Slightly acrid odour

Polyester Melts and pulls away from flame

Melts and burns May self- extinguish

Hard black bead Sweet odour

Spandex Melts but does not pull away from flame

Melts and burns Continues to melt and burn

Soft black ash Chemical odour

FIBRES WHEN APPROACHING FLAME

WHEN IN FLAME

AFTERREMOVALFROM FLAME

ASH ODOUR

Cotton Fibre

Linen Fibre

Silk fibre

Wool fibre Acetate Fibre

Acrylic fibre

Nylon Fiber

Polyester Fiber

Rayon Fiber

CHEMICAL TESTS ( T E C H N I C A L T E S T S )

The test involves treating the fibers in certain solvents for identifying them. The technical test is becoming difficult to conduct as most of the manufactured fibers and their blends are chemically similar. There is no individual chemical or solvent test for separating or identifying the fibers in combinations.

FIBRE SOLUBLE INCotton 70% sulphuric acid, room temp, 20

minsViscose 60% & 70% sulphuric acid, room temp,

20 minsFlax 70% sulphuric acid, room temp., 20

minsWool Sodium hypochlorite 5%, room temp, 20

minsPolyester

M- crasol, 100 C, 5 mins

Nylon Formic acid, room temp. ORM- cresol at 100C ,5 mins

Olefin M-cresol, 100C, 5 minsAcrylic Dimethylformamide(DMF) 90C, 10 minsAramid Insoluble in above solvents

Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units. Fabric, cloth typically produced by weaving, knitting or knotting textile fibers, yarns of threads, is measured in units such as momme, thread count, ends per inch and picks per inch

Ends per inch (e.p.i)

Ends per inch are the number of warp threads per inch of woven fabric. In general, the higher the ends per inch, the finer the fabric is. It is commonly used by weavers who must use the number of ends per inch in order to pick the right reed to weave with; it varies on the pattern to be woven and the thickness of thread. And the number of ends per inch in a piece of woven cloth varies depending on the stage of manufacture.

UNITS OF TEXTILE MEASUREMENT

Picks per inch (p.p.i)Picks per inch is the number of weft threads per inch of the woven fabric. A pick is a single weft thread, hence the term. In general higher the picks per inch, the finer the fabric is and as the ends per inch is used by the weavers picks per inch is also used by them for picking the right reed to weave with; it varies on the pattern to be woven and the thickness of thread. And similarly the number of picks per inch in a piece of woven cloth varies depending on the stage of manufacture.

The EPI and PPI of any fabric can be calculated with the help of a pick glass. It has a magnifying area of 1inch by 1inch. First one identifies the warp and weft direction and then put pick glass over the fabric, then by the method of simple counting, EPI and PPI is established for a fabric.