london calling bag - Choly Knight...london calling bag SEWING TUTORIAL Open up the window by cutting...

london calling bag

a sewing pattern by

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london calling bagsewing tutoriallondon calling bag

london calling bag

difficulty:

before you begin:

makes:

materials & tools• Magneticsnap• 3”x3”scrapoffleeceinterfacing• Appliquésupplies:

• 1/4yd.ofbackgroundstripefabric(white)

• 1/8yd.ofmainstripefabric(purple)

• 1/8yd.ofaccentstripefabric(green)

• Matchingsewingthread• Basicsewingtools(sewingmachine,

scissors,iron,needles,pins,fabricmarker,seamripper)

• 1yd.of45”wideor3/4”of60”widemediumtoheavyweightfabricforouterbag(Iusedtwill)

• 1/4yd.vinylforbagbottom• 11/2yds.oflightweightfabricfor

lining(Iusedquiltingcotton)• 12/3yds.of20”wideor3/4yd.of

45”widelighttomediumweightfusibleinterfacing

• 21”zipper(orlonger;fortop)• 14”zipper(orlonger;forfront)• 10”zipper(orlonger;forlining)• 2”widebeltbuckle• Two1”widerectangularmetalrings• Five3/8”widegrommets• Grommetsettingtools

one13”x13”x4”bagThisoneisprettytough;therearealotofextradetailsandaccuracytoconsider.

Thisprojectonitsownisaverybiggussetedbagwithazipperedtopclosure.ButtheoptionaldetailsincludeafrontpocketwithUnionJackapplique,buckleadjustablestrap,andloadsofinnerpockets.

3. Layoutthepatternpiecesonyourfabricandcutthemout

4. Markthefabricpieceswiththeguidelinesfromthepattern

1. Printouttheprojectpattern,pages29-432. Assemblethepatternpiecesbyliningup

thepagemarkings(A1toA2,B3toB4,andsoon)


london calling bagsewing tutorial

the inner front gather2TallPocket(B)liningpieces,2ShortPocket(A)liningpieces,and1Front/Back(C)liningpiece

Theinnerfrontofthebaghastwopockets,onelarge,theothershorter.Aligna

pairofTallPocket(B)andShortPocket(A)pieceswith

rightsidestogether(Iusedtwodifferentliningfabricstoeatupmyscrapsmore),andsewthemalongthetopstraightedge.Whenfinished,turnthemrightsideoutandpressthetopseamniceandcrisp.

LayertheShortPocket(A)overtheTallPocket(B)andlineuptheraw

edgesatthebottomwithallrightsidesfacingup.Baste

thelayersinplaceandalsoaddanyextralinesgoingthroughtheShortPocket(A)tocreatesepa-rations.ForinstanceIcreatedsomepencilpocketsthatwereabout11/2”apart.

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1

4


sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |

the inner back gather2HiddenPocket(D)liningpieces,1Front/Back(C)liningpiece,2ShortPocket(A)liningpieces,and10”zipper

Nowsewthiswholeconfig-urationontopofoneofyourFront/Back(C)liningpieces.Aligntherawedgesalongthebottomwithallrightsidesfacingupandbastethesidesandbottominplace.ThisfinishestheInnerFront!Setthisasideuntilthe“BringingtheInsideTogether”section.

TheInnerBackhasasetofshortpocketsandazipperedhiddenpocket.Westartfirstwiththehiddenpocket.TheHiddenPocket(D)hasazipperwindow;linethisupwiththezipperwindowononeoftheFront/Back(C)liningpieceswithrightsidestogether.Sewaroundthisrectangletocreatethewindow.

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3



Openupthewindowbycuttingdownthemiddle(lengthwise),thendiagonally

intothecornersascloseasyoucanwithoutactually

cuttingthethreads.

TurnthepiecesrightsideoutbyslippingtheHiddenPocket(D)intotheopening

you’vecutandflattenoutthepiecesandtheseam.The

cornerswillbealittletight,butpressthemreallywelltogetacleanlookingwindowforyourzipper.

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Installthezipperbyplacingitunderthisopeningandcenteringthezipperteeththroughtheopening.Makesurethezipperslideriswithinthewindow,thenpinitinplace(tapingorgluingalsoworksandislessobtrusive).Fromthefrontsideofthispiece,sewaroundtheedgeofthewindowascloseasyoucantotheseam–azipperfootreallyhelpshere.

Whenyou’vefinishedsewingthezipper,trimofftheexcesstapeandaddthelastHiddenPocket(D)piecetothecurrentonewithrightsidestogether.Sewthetwotogetherwitha1/4”seamallow-ance.You’lllikelyneedtomovetheFront/Back(C)pieceoutofthewaytodothis.

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TofinishtheInnerBack,we’rejustaddingonemoresetofshortpockets.Take

yourtwoShortPocket(A)piecesandlinethemupalong

thetopstraightedge.Sewthemtogetheralongthisedgeandturnthepiecesrightsideoutandpresswhencomplete.

AligntheshortpocketontopoftheFront/Backpiecefromstep8.Match

upthebottomedgeswithrightsidesbothfacingup.

Bastethepocketinplacealongthesidesandbottomaswellasanyseparatinglinesyou’dliketosewtomakeparticularpocketsforanything.You’llwanttomovethehiddenpocketoutofthewaysoyoudon’taccidentallysewoverit.YourInnerBackisalldone;setitasideuntilthe“BringingtheInsideTogether”section.

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the outer backFusetheinterfacingpiecestotheircorrespondingTallPocket(B)andFront/Back(C)outerfabricpieces.SincetheTallPocket(B)interfacingiswithoutseamallowances,makesuretheinterfacingiscenteredproperlyinthemiddleofthepocketbeforefusing.NoteherethatI’musingpurpleplaidforanaccentonmyTallPocket(B)whichwouldotherwisebethesameastherestoftheouterfabricifIweren’tusingassortedfabricstobustmystash.

BringtogetherbothTallPocket(B)pieces,theouterfabricandtheliningandalignthembythetopstraightedge.Sewthesetwopiecesinplacealongthisedge,thenturnrightsideoutandpressflat.

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gather1TallPocket(B)outerfabricpiece,1TallPocket(B)interfacingpiece,1TallPocket(B)liningpiece,1Front/Back(C)outerfabricpiece,1Front/Back(C)interfacingpiece,fusiblefleecescrap,andmagneticsnap



Upnextistoinstallthemagneticsnap.Togivethesnapsomeextrasupport,

fusethescrapoffusiblefleeceinterfacingaroundwhere

thesnapwillbeplaced,centeredontheupperedgeoftheTallPocket(B)lining.

Toinstallthesnapwherethepatternguidelineindicates,presstheprongs

ofthethinhalfofthesnapintotherightsideofthelining

fabric.Cuttwolittleslitswheretheprongsdentedthefabric,thenpushthesnapthroughtheslits.Addthebaseontheothersideandbendtheprongsbackwithapairofpliers.

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NowtaketheTallPocket(B)andlayeritovertheFront/Back(C)outerfabricpiecewithallrightsidesfacingup.Alignthebottomedgesandbastethesidesandbottominplace.

WiththeTallPocket(B)allbasted,it’llbeeasiertotellexactlywheretoplacethesockethalfofyourmagneticsnap.SeewheretheupperhalfofthesnaplandsontheFront/Back(C)pieceandinstalltheotherhalfofthesnapthere.Andthissection’sfinished!Setasidethispieceuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.

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the outer front

ApplytheFrontPocket(E)fusibleinterfacingtotheFrontPocket(E)outer

fabricpieces.

Fortheappliqué,IoptednottouseanyfusiblewebbecauseIwantedmy

appliquéedgestostayrawandgetfrayed.Graballyour

appliquepiecesandlaythemoutinthisorder.Firstupisthebackgrounddiagonalstripes.Linethoseupinthecornersandtheyshouldoverlapnearthetop.Afterthatputinthediagonalaccentstripes.SewthemaroundtheedgeseitherwithazigzagstitchorastraightstitchasI’vedone.

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gather2FrontPocket(E)outerfabricpieces,2FrontPocket(E)inter-facingpieces,2FrontPocket(E)liningpieces,4ZipperTab(F)appliquéfabricpieces,1Front/Back(C)outerfabricpiece,1Front/Back(C)interfacingpiece,allofyourappliquépieces,andthe14”zipper

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Afterthatarethestraightbackgroundstripes;verticalfirst,thenhorizontal.Theseoverlapthediagonalones.Lastlytherearethemainstripesdonethesameway.Thelasthorizontalmainstripwillgoagainsttheedgesothezipperseamonlyhas2layersoffabric;lessbulkthatway.

Whenallofyourappliquéisdone,usethepaperpatterntotrimthefabricandroundoffthecornerswherethediagonalstripesend.

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Timetopreparethezipper!Togetitreadytosew,we’readdingsomezipper

tabstoeachend.Trimthezipperto13”long,then

sandwicheachendofthezipperwithtwoZipperTabs(F)andsewthroughall3layers.Whenfinished,trimtheseamallowanceto1/4andpressthefabricawayfromthezipper.

InstallittoyourfrontpocketbysandwichingitbetweentheFront

Pocket(E)outerfabricpiece(completewithappliqué)and

theFrontPocket(E)liningpiecewiththerightsideofthezipperfacingtheouterfabric.Matchuptheupperedgeandsewthroughallthreelayerswitha1/4”seamallowance.NoteherethatI’musingmoregreenplaidasmylininginsteadofmoreoftheliningfabricyouhadseenbefore.RepeatthiswiththeothersideofthepocketandtheotherFrontPocket(E)outerfabricandliningpieces.

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Whentheseamsarecomplete,pressthefabricawayfromthezipperandedgestitchtheseamclosetothezipperforaprofessionalfinish.

We’rereadytoattachthesepocketstoabase,butfirstthatbaseneedsalayerofinterfacing.FusetheFront/Back(C)interfacingpiecetothebackoftheFront/Back(C)outerfabricpiece.NotethatI’musingmoregreenplaidasmyouterfabricheretouseupmystashXDbutalsoforanicepopofcolor.Soit’snotthetypicalblackouterfabricasintherestofthebag.

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the strap & handle

LayyourFrontPocket(E)pieceontopoftheFront/Back(C)piecewithbothrightsidesfacingupward.Thenbaste

aroundtheentireperimeterofthelayerstoholdeverythinginplace.Thatcompletes

theOuterFront!Setthispieceasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.

Upfirstisthestrap.Justlikewithalotoftheotherpieces,applyyourStrap(L)

interfacingtotheStrap(L)outerfabricbyironingitinplace.Whenfinished,trimoff6”attheendofthestrap,thiswillbeyourBuckleTab.Setthisasideuntilstep31.

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gatheryourStrap(L)outerfabricandStrap(L)interfacing,theHandle(G)outerfabricandtheHandle(G)interfacing,2Tab(H)outerfabricpieces,2Tab(H)interfacingpieces,thebeltbuckle,thegrommets,andthetworectangularmetalrings

16



FoldtheStrap(L)inhalflengthwiseandsewdowntheentirelength.

TrimtheextraseamallowancefromthepointedendandturntheStrap(L)rightsideout.It’sbesttouseablunttoollikethewrongendofachopstickoradoweltogetthisstarted,sinceit’squiteeasytoaccidentallypokeaholeinyourstrapwithsomethingsharper.

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WhentheStrap(L)isallturned.Pressitsotheedgesareallniceandcrisp,

thenedgestitcharoundtheperimeterofthestrap.

Nextup,installthegrom-metsnearthepointedendofyourStrap(L).Center

themalongthestrapandspacethemoutabout3”orso

apart.Itreallydependsonhowmuchyouwantyourstraptoadjust,butthat’swhatIwentwith.Thestrapisreadytogo!Setthisasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.

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GetouttheBuckleTabbackfromstep26andstartassemblingit.Foldunderthelongedgesby1/2”andpresstheminplace.Thenfoldthewholepieceinhalflengthwisewithwrongsidestogether.Wheneverything’sfolded,edgestitchbothsidesjustlikeinstep29withthestrap.

FoldthefinishedBuckleTabinhalfwidthwiseandcutasmallholeinthecenter,thisisforyourbuckletine.Loopthebucklethroughthetab,insertingthetineinthehole.Putadaboffray-blockingliquidontheholeforabitofinsurance.Bringtogethertherawedgesofthetabandbastethemtogether.Buckle’sallreadynow!Setthisasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.

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Upnextisthehandle.FirstofcourseistofusetheHandle(G)interfacingpiece

totheHandle(G)outerfabricpieceaswellastheTab

(H)interfacingpiecestotheTab(H)outerfabricpieces.

FortheHandle(G),foldundereachlongedgeby1/2”andironinplace,then

foldundereachshortedgeby1/2”andironinplace.To

finish,foldtheentirehandleinhalflengthwisewithwrongsidestogetherandironthewholethingflat.

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WithyourHandle(G)lookingneatandspiffy,edgestitcharoundtheentirepiece.

AttachtheHandle(G)totherectangularmetalringsbyfoldingovertheshortedgesby1”andwrappingthoseedgesaroundtherectangularmetalrings,oneoneachside.Withtheoverlap,sewtheendsofthehandleinplacebygoingbackandforthwithastraightstitchforextrastrength.

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bringing the outside together

Tomakethetabs,foldundereachlongedgeby1/2”,theneachshortedge

by1/2”andironthefoldsinplace.Thenfoldthewhole

tabinplacewidthwise.Setthoseasideuntilthe“BringingtheOutsideTogether”section.

FirstwestartoffwiththeTopFront(I)andTopBack(J).Justlikewithalotof

theotherpieces,weironthecorrespondinginterfacingpieces

beforewecangetstarted.

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gatheryourTopFront(I)outerfabricandinterfacingpieces,theTopBack(J)outerfabricandinterfacingpieces,4ZipperTab(F)outerfabricpieces,theBottom(K)vinylpiece,yourHandle(G),Strap(L),21”zipper,andouterBackandFrontsections

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Nowprepyourzipper.Trimthezipperto211/4”longandaddtheTabs(F)bysandwichingthezipperbetweentwoTab(F)piecesandsewingthroughallthreelayers.Trimtheseamallowanceto1/4”andpressthefabricawayfromthezipper.

NowapplythezippertoyourTopBack(J)piecewithrightsidesfacing.Alignthelongedgewiththezippertapeandsewitinplacewitha1/4”seamallowance.Whenfinished,sewtheTopFront(I)ontheothersideofthezippertapeinthesamemanner.

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Whenthezipperisinstalled,pressthefabricawayfromthezipper.To

keepeverythingniceandflat,edgestitchclosetothe

previousseamonbothsidesofthezipper.

Upnextistoaddthehandle.TakeyourHandle(G)piecefromstep36and

theTabs(H)aswell.Loopthetabsaroundtheother

endoftherectangularmetalrings,thenalignthetabsontothepatternguidelinesontheTopBack(J).Wheneverythingisaligned(dabsofglueortapehelphereifpinsaretooobtrusive),sewaroundtheTab(H)inalittlesquaretoanchortheHandle(G).

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Afterthehandle,addintheStrap(L)andBuckleTaboneachside.IwearmybagonmyrighthandsideandIwantpeopletoseethebuckle,sobastedtheBuckleTabontheleftandsideandtheStrap(L)ontheright.Centertherawendsoverthezipperandbasteinplacewithallrightsidesfacingupward.

Nowtoaddthebottom.AligntheshortedgesoftheBottom(K)withthoseofthetopsectionyoujustcreated.Sewthroughallthelayersandrepeatwiththeothersidetoformaring.

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Sincewe’reworkingwithvinyl,it’sgoingtoreacttotopstitchingalotbetter

thanironing.Soafterfinishingtheseam,foldit

towardsthevinylandedgestitchthepreviousseamtoflattenthingsoutnicely.

Yourtopandbottomareallcomplete!Nowwecanaddittothefrontandback.Taketheedgeofthe

Top/BottomwiththeTopBack(J)sideandlineitupwiththeedgeoftheOuter

Backsectionwecompletedinstep16.You’llseethattheseamsfromstep44shouldlineupwiththesquaremarkingsfromthepattern.

Pinuptheedgestherestoftheway,notingthatyoumightwanttoclipabout3/8”intotheseamallowanceatthecornerstomaketurningaroundthecurveseasier.

Wheneverything’salllinedup,sewtheedgesinplace.MovethezipperslidertothemiddleandrepeatthisstepwiththeOuterFrontsectionandtheothersideoftheTop/Bottom.

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bringing the inside together

TakeyourTopFront(I)andTopBack(J)liningpiecesandfoldunderonelongedgeofeachby1/2”andpressthemflat.

AligntheshortedgeofthesewiththeshortedgeoftheBottom(K)liningpiece.WhenalignedflushwiththeBottom(K),thereshouldbeabouta1/2”gapinthemiddlewherethefoldededgesrest.Sewtheedgestogetherhere.

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gatheryourTopFront(I)liningfabricpiece,theTopBack(J)liningfabricpiece,theBottom(K)liningpiece,theInnerFrontsection,OuterFrontsection,andthewholeOuterBagforlast



PresstheseamallowancestowardstheBottom(K)pieceandedgestitchthe

finishedseamjustasinstep45.

GrabyourInnerFrontpieceandaligntheTop/Bottomsectionyoujust

createdaroundit,makingsuretheedgewiththeTop

Front(I)getspinnedtotheInnerFront.We’rerepeatingthesamethingasstep46,sewingtheTop/BottomaroundthesidesoftheInnerFrontandBackpieces.Besuretomatchupthesquaremarkingsandcliptheseamallowancesinthecornerstohelpwiththecurves.Whenyou’vesewntheInnerFrontandBacktobothsides,yourInnerBagisalldone!

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TojointheInnerBagtotheOuterBag,firstturntheOuterBaginsideout.TurntheInnerBagrightsideoutandnestletheOuterBaginside.ThefoldedopeningintheInnerBagshouldlineupwiththezipperfromtheOuterbag,allowingyoutostitchallaroundandjointhetwohalves.Sewitallinplacewithaslipstitchaswellasafewmoretackingstitchesaroundthesideseamstokeepthelininganchoredwithinthebag.

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Pg. 1/15

Pg. 6/15

A1 A2

B1B2

London Calling BagP A T T E R N

www.cholyknight.com

FRONT & BACK (C)Cut 2 on fold of outer fabricCut 2 on fold of lining fabric

Cut 2 on fold of fusible interfacing½” seam allowance

zipper window (back lining only)

side seam point

cut

on fol

d

Pg. 1/15 Pg. 2/15

Pg. 6/15 Pg. 7/15

A1 A2

A3 A4

B3B4


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SHORT POCKET (A)Cut 4 on fold of lining fabric

½” seam allowance

cut

on fol

d

Pg. 2/15 Pg. 3/15

Pg. 7/15 Pg. 8/15

A3 A4A5 A6

B5B6


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HIDDEN POCKET (D)Cut 2 on fold of lining fabric

¼” seam allowance

zipper window

cut

on fol

d

cut on fold

cut

on fol

d

Pg. 3/15 Pg. 4/15

Pg. 8/15 Pg. 9/15

A5 A6

A7 A8

B7B8

han

dle t

ab

place

men

t

Pg. 4/15 Pg. 5/15

Pg. 9/15 Pg. 10/15

A7 A8

B9B10

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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.com

ZIP

PER T

ABS (F)

Cut

4 o

f ou

ter fa

bric

Cut

4 o

f m

ain s

trip

appliq

ue

fabric

½” se

am a

llow

ance

TABS (H)

Cut

2 o

f ou

ter fa

bric

Cut

2 o

f fu

sible in

terfac

ing

½” se

am a

llow

ance

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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ight

.com

HANDLE (G)

Cut

1 o

f ou

ter fa

bric

Cut

1 o

f fu

sible in

terfac

ing

½” se

am a

llow

ance

metal ring fold line

metal ring fold line

Pg. 6/15

Pg. 11/15

C1 C2

B1B2

D1D

2


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TALL POCKET (B)Cut 3 on fold of lining fabricCut 1 on fold of outer fabric

Cut 1 on fold of fusible interfacing(sans seam allowances)

½” seam allowance

snap placement

cut

on fol

d

Pg. 6/15 Pg. 7/15

Pg. 11/15 Pg. 12/15

C1 C2

C3 C4

B3B4

D3

D4

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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ight

.com

FRO

NT P

OCKET (E)

Cut

2 o

f ou

ter fa

bric

Cut

2 o

f lin

ing

fabric

Cut

2 o

f fu

sible in

terfac

ing

½” se

am a

llow

ance

appliqu

e gu

idelines

Pg. 7/15 Pg. 8/15

Pg. 12/15 Pg. 13/15

C3 C4C5 C6

D5D

6

B5B6

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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.com

BOTTO

M (K)

Cut

1 o

f viny

lCut

1 o

f lin

ing

fabric

½” se

am a

llow

ance

Pg. 8/15 Pg. 9/15

Pg. 13/15 Pg. 14/15

C5 C6 C7 C8

D7D

8B7

B8

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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.com

TO

P F

RO

NT (I)

Cut

1 o

f ou

ter fa

bric

Cut

1 o

f lin

ing

fabric

Cut

1 o

f fu

sible in

terfac

ing

½” se

am a

llow

ance

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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ight

.com

TO

P B

ACK (J)

Cut

1 o

f ou

ter fa

bric

Cut

1 o

f lin

ing

fabric

Cut

1 o

f fu

sible in

terfac

ing

½” se

am a

llow

ance

han

dle t

ab

place

men

t

Pg. 9/15 Pg. 10/15

Pg. 14/15 Pg. 15/15

C7 C8

D9

D10

B9B10


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BACKGROUND APPLIQUE(VERTICAL STRIPE)Cut 2 of background fabric

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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ight

.com

ACCENT S

TRIP

APPLIQ

UE

(DIA

GO

NAL S

TRIP

E)

Cut

4 o

f ac

cent

fab

ric

Pg. 11/15

E1 E2

D1D

2

not

e: c

ut p

oint

s on

one

end o

nly

Pg. 11/15 Pg. 12/15

E1 E2

E3 E4D

3D

4


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www.cholyknight.com


www.cholyknight.com

STRAP (L)Cut 1 on fold of outer fabric

Cut 1 on fold of fusible interfacing½” seam allowance

Pg. 12/15 Pg. 13/15

E3 E4 E5 E6

D5D

6MAIN STRIPE APPLIQUE

(HORIZONTAL)Cut 2 of main applique fabric

BACKGROUND APPLIQUE(HORIZONTAL STRIPE)

Cut 2 of background fabric

Pg. 13/15 Pg. 14/15

E5 E6

E7 E8

D7D

8London Calling Bag

P A T T E R Nwww.cholyknight.com

BACKGROUND APPLIQUE(DIAGONAL STRIPE)Cut 4 of background fabric

Pg. 14/15 Pg. 15/15

E7 E8

D9

D10

Lond

on C

allin

g Ba

gP

AT

TE

RN

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ight

.com

MAIN

STRIP

E A

PPLIQ

UE

(VERTIC

AL)

Cut

2 o

f m

ain a

ppliq

ue

fabric

cut

on fol

d

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