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TYPES OF TEST
The Non technical Test FEELING TEST
BURNING TESTS
The Technical Test MICROSCOPIC TEST
CHEMICAL TEST
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Tests for identification
Handle/Feel Test
Visual Examination
Burning testTwist on Drying
Floatation Test
Microscopic analysis
Chemical Analysis
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Requirements for tests:
Preparation of test specimen
Apparatus for microscopic examinationReagents used for chemical tests
Other tools and equipment
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THE NON-TECHNICAL TESTS
Feeling test
Burning test
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FEELING TEST
The feeling test requires perception ifit is to be of any value.
Skilled perception is acquired onlyafter handling many different fabricsover a period of time.
Limitations of this test becomeapparent when examining andcomparing fabrics of different fibercontent.
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BURNING TEST
To recognize the composition of fabrics bythe burning test ,the sample of fibre, yarn offabric should be moved slowly towards asmall flame and the reaction to heatcarefully observed .One end of the sampleshould be put directly into flame to
determine its burning rate andcharacteristics. The burning odour should benoted and the characteristics of the ashsuch as amount ,form, hardness and colour
should be examined.
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IDENTIFICATION OF FIBRES THROUGH BURNING
TEST
Cotton
When ignited it burns with a steady flameand smells like burning leaves. The ash left
is easily crumbled. Small samples of burningcotton can be blown out as you would acandle.
Linen
Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabricclosest to the ash is very brittle. Linen iseasily extinguished by blowing on it as you
would a candle.
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SilkIt is a protein fibre and usually burns readily,not necessarily with a steady flame, andsmells like burning hair. The ash is easily
crumbled. Silk samples are not as easilyextinguished as cotton or linen.
WoolIt is also a protein fibre but is harder to
ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibresare shorter than silk and the weave of thefabrics is generally looser than with silk. Theflame is steady but more difficult to keepburning. The smell of burning wool is likeburning hair.
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Man Made Fibres
AcetateAcetate burns readily with a flickering flamethat cannot be easily extinguished. Theburning cellulose drips and leaves a hard
ash. The smell is similar to burning woodchips.
AcrylicAcrylics burn readily due to the fibre content
and the lofty, air filled pockets. A matchdropped on an acrylic blanket can ignite thefabric which will burn rapidly unlessextinguished. The ash is hard. The smell isacrid or harsh.
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Nylon
Nylon melts and then burns rapidly if theflame remains on the melted fibre. If you
can keep the flame on the melting nylon, itsmells like burning plastic.
Polyester
Polyester melts and burns at the same time,the melting, burning ash can bond quickly toany surface it drips on including skin. Thesmoke from polyester is black with a
sweetish smell. The extinguished ash is
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Rayon
It is a regenerated cellulose fibre whichis almost pure cellulose. Rayon burnsrapidly and leaves only a slight ash.
The burning smell is close to burningleaves.
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LIMITATION OF BURNING TEST
It is apparent that many fibers havesimilar burning reactions that mightcause doubt and occasional
confusion.
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TECHNICAL TESTS
There are certain technical tests performedfor identifying various fibers. These tests require high technology laboratory equipment a
nd are much more reliable than the non technical fibre tests.
Technicals tests require high skilled personnel and technical know how of handling chemi
cals and their accurate analysis. These testsare very valuable for those fabrics that are ablend of different yarns and also have certain special properties including flame retardance etc.
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TYPES OF TECHNICAL TEST
Microscopic test
Chemical test
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MICROSCOPIC TEST
Microscopic test is a technical test that involvesidentifying the fabric with the help of a microscope with a magnification of minimum 100 power.
The test can easily distinguish between fibers.
The test identifies the natural fibers more easilyas compared to man made ones.
Synthetic fibers are very similar in appearanceand the increase in the number of varieties, makes it a little tough to distinguish the fibers even under a microscope.
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MICROSCOPIC TEST FOR NATURAL
FIBERS
COTTON:
It is a single elongated cell.Under the microscope, itresembles a collapsed,spirally twisted tube with a
rough surface. The thin cell wall of the fiber
has from 200 to 400convolutions per inch.
LINEN: Under the microscope, the
hair like flax fiber showsseveral sided cylindricalfilaments with fine pointedends.
The fiber somewhat
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WOOL: Under the microscope , wools
cross section shows threelayers- epidermis, cortex andthe medulla.
SILK: It appears somewhat elliptical
and triangular in cross sectionwhen we see under themicroscope.
It is composed of fibroin,consisting of two filaments,called brin which is held
together by sericin.
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MICROSCOPIC TEST FOR MANMADE
FIBERS
RAYONS: Rayon fibers have a
glasslike luster under themicroscope and appear to
have a uniform diameterwhen viewedlongitudinally.
ACETATE: The cross sectional viewhas a bulbous or multilobalappearance withindentations.
These indentations appearas occasional markings or
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NYLON: The basic microscopic
appearance is generally fine ,round, smooth, andtranslucent.
It is also produced inmultilobal cross-sectionaltypes.
POLYESTERS: Generally, polyester fibers are
smooth and straight and thecross-section is round.
This general characteristics
may be altered to achieve
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ACRYLICS: The methods of manufacturing of theacrylic fibres differ, the appearances varyaccordingly.
ACRILAN ACRYLIC: It has a bean-shaped crosssection, its longitudinal appearance is straightand smooth.
ORLON ACRYLIC: It has a flat, nut-shaped crosssection.
CRESLAN ACRYLIC: It has an almost round crosssection.
MOD ACRYLICS: it is of two types verel modacrylicand SEF modacrylic
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SPANDEX:Spandex fibers are unique inappearance, they appear to be groups of fibersfused together.
GLASS: The fiber is smooth, round, translucent,highly lustrous, and quite flexible.
Asbestos fibre
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CHEMICAL TESTS
Chemical tests are another technical means ofidentifying fibers. But chemical tests are notintended for the general consumers.
Different types of chemical tests are undertakento establish the identity of the fibers used.
These tests give accurate and precise analysis.
The tests are conducted in research laboratories.
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TYPES OF CHEMICAL TEST
Stain Test:Also known as the Double Barrel Fibre Identification(DBFI), the test is based on the theory that each
fibre has its own distinct two- colour reaction whentreated with stain.A fibre will turn to a particular colour in thepresence of dilute acetic acid and to some other
specific colour when stained in the presence of amild alkali.
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Solvent Test:The test involves treating the fibres in certainsolvents for identifying them. The technical test is
becoming difficult to conduct as most of themanufactured fibres and their blends are chemicallysimilar. There is no individual chemical or solventtest for separating or identifying the fibres incombinations.
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Distinguishing animal from vegetablefibres with an acid
As strong alkali destroy animal substances, a 5%of soda lye solution in water can be used toeliminate wool and silk fibers from a sample thatcontains a mixture of fiber. The vegetable fibreswill not be affected by this solution.
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Distinguishing vegetable from animalfibres with an acid
As dilute acid destroy vegetable fibers, a 2%sulphuric acid solution can be used. A drop ofsolution is placed on the sample, which is thenpressed with a hot iron. The spotted area willbecome charred if the sample is cotton linen or
rayon.
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DISTINGUISHING SILK FROM WOOL:
The use of concentrated cold hydrochloric acid willdissolve the silk and the wool fiber swells.
DISTINGUISHING NYLON FROM OTHERFIBRES:
If the fabric is thought to contain nylon, the fabricmay be immersed in a boiling solution of sodiumhydroxide. The nylon is insoluble in such a solution.
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DISTINGUISHING POLYESTERS FROMOTHER FIBRES:Polyester is soluble in hot meta cresol; however ,unlike acetate it is not soluble in acetone, and
unlike nylon it is not soluble in concentrated formicacid.
DISTINGUISHING ACRYLICS FROMOTHER FIBRES:Acrylic fibers will dissolve in 70 percent solution ofammonium thio cyanate at 130 degree Celsius but
the other fibers will not.
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DISTINGUISHING LINEN FROM COTTON
Cotton and linen are immersed in a 1% solution offuchsine in alcohol to give red rose colour. Later ,
they are washed and immersed into ammonia, linenretains the red coloration but cotton does not.
DISTINGUISHING GLASS FIBERS FROM OTHER
FIBRES:There are two specific solvents for quickidentification of glass fibers, they are hydrofluoricacid and hot phosphoric acid.
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This technical fibre identification test has the followingadvantages and limitations
Advantages
More reliable than the non technical tests. Used for both man made fibres and natural fibres. Easily conducted.Limitations Certain manufacturing and finishing processes like
mercerizing, affects the appearance of the fibres underthe microscope. Very dark coloured fabrics cannot be identified under
microscope. Dye stuffs must be removed from fabrics.
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Fiber Identification
Strong
More elastic
Translucent&
uniform
Burns & stops
Out of flame
Leaving darkhard beads
Dissolves
slowly
---Looses
strength
---------------Nylon
Translucent&
uniform
Lofty & more
voluminous
Burns & stops
Out of flame
Leaving dark
hard beads
Dissolves &
Turns yellowish
brown
Turns
yellowish
brown
---Looses
strength
& dissolves
slowly
---------------Acrylic
Resistant to
chemicals
Translucent&
uniform
Burns& stops
leaving semi
Dissolves
slowly
transpera
nt hardbeads.
Dissolves
slowly onprolonged
treatment
---------------Polyeste
r
Rough crimpy
fibers
Scales
structure
Self extinguishing
Leaves crushable
Black beads
Fish
Dissolves
slowly
---Dissolves
slowly
------Dissolves-do--do-Wool
coating
Delicate
lustrous
filaments
Densed centreline Uneven
Self extinguishing
Leaves crushable
Black beads
Dissolves---Dissolvespartial;ly
------Dissolves slowly
DissolvesLoosesstrength
Silk
Soft filaments
good luster
Longitudinal
regular lines
Burns
continuously
leaving grey ash
of burning paper
smell
Dissolves
quickly
DissolvesDissolvesDissolv
es onheating
Turns
yellow
Gets
weakened
Swells &
slowlydissolves
SwellsViscose
serations
Brittle & resistant
to chemicals
Opaque thick-do-
black ash
Dissolves
slowly
Dissolves
onprolonged
heating
---------Color
turnspale
------Coir
-Rough handleLongitudinal
irregular lines
-doDissolves-do-do------
-
-do--do--do-jute
Resistance to
alkalis.
Longitudinal
twists.
Burns
continuously
leaving grey ash
of burning paper
smell
Dissolves
quickly
Dissolves
on heating
&looses
strength
Dissolves
slowly
Opens
up
Turns
yellowish
WhitenedSwells&
Shines
swellsCotton
RemarksMicroscopic
View
Burning in
Flame
Sulphur
ic acid
70%
Sulphur
ic acid
15%
Nitric
acid
70%
Nitric
acid
15%
Hydro
chloric
acid
40%
Sodiu
m hypo
chlorid
e
Caustic
soda
25% sol.
Soda ash
40% sol.
test
fiber
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